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Going back to your 1st post and the sound occurring going over 20mph. Have you had someone drive your car past you going over 20mph as you're standing on the side of the road? Once i was trying to figure out where a noise was coming from so I had a neighbor get in and drive around while I was outside the car listening. Wheel bearings you may not notice anything wrong just spinning by hand, but once they get heated up driving on the highway they start whining.
I have not yet but it did cross my mind. Driving today against a curb for a mile did help to hear it, but the parking lot squeal seems to hint at the true source of the noise. Will update when I get a chance to inspect brake and/or remove caliper
Originally Posted by JettaRed
I’ve not heard anything about the PS pumps. I think they’re good.
Ill usually remove the calipers once a year to give everything a thorough cleaning, at least in spring and maybe again in the fall. In previous vehicles I would grease everything in there, my Mercedes I came across a sheet on where to grease and where not to grease. Example my front brakes I only put grease on the carrier UNDER the anti-rattle springs, and not on the surfaces where the pads ride. But it shows grease (Plastilube) on the rear carriers where the pads ride. Also there is no greasing of the calipers pins shown, so I remove and clean them thoroughly and put them back. Ill remove the anti-rattle springs and give them a scrub with fine steel wool if they are dirty. I dont have the MB Never Seeze, I just use Sylglide silicone brake lube, which may be wrong so im not recommending you do it in case theres issues I dont want to be blamed. I went with Ferodo front pads and ATE rear pads, they appeared to come with some type of soft backing so i dont grease them.
My front and rear brakes are the ones on the second sheet.
I think some people may have issues because they may use a petroleum based grease on the caliper pins which can make the rubber boots swell. If youre going to grease the pins then probably a silicone lube would be a better choice.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
I did the rear brake pads and rotors on my 2015 SL400 yesterday. The car has a little under 43,000 miles and I suspect that the rotors and pads, if not original, had been changed before I bought the car with a little over 22,000 miles. It was certainly the first time I had changed the rear pads. I didn't measure the thickness of the rotors, but there was a significant lip on the edge of the rotor on the inside more than the outside. Therefore, I installed new rotors, as well.
What I found interesting is that the rear brake piston simply pushed in. Typical of many European cars that use the disc brake pads as a parking brake, you need a special tool to turn the piston while pressing in. My SL has electric parking brakes. The parking brakes on the C350 are the drum type. As such, the pistons compress without turning them. This makes brake jobs much easier. I did however, put the parking brake in assembly position using my iCarsoft scanner. Not sure if that was necessary, but I did it anyway. I think I'll go look up the procedure in the WIS and see.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by JettaRed
.... I did however, put the parking brake in assembly position using my iCarsoft scanner. Not sure if that was necessary, but I did it anyway. I think I'll go look up the procedure in the WIS and see.
Actually, you do need to put the brakes into Assembly Position. It can be done via the workshop menu. That procedure can be found here:
To remove my front calipers I had to grind down a 17mm wrench. Regular size would not fit onto the guide pin nut on the inside. Took an angle grinder to it, remove just a little.
Here's what my front calipers look like with the guide pins. This is just a photo i found online, not of my actual brakes. The width of the nut on the guide pin is slimmer than my wrench is.
To remove my front calipers I had to grind down a 17mm wrench. Regular size would not fit onto the guide pin nut on the inside. Took an angle grinder to it, remove just a little.
Here's what my front calipers look like with the guide pins. This is just a photo i found online, not of my actual brakes. The width of the nut on the guide pin is slimmer than my wrench is.
I bought a set of thin wrenches from Olsatools that work perfectly for Mercedes calipers. Good quality and fairly inexpensive. My conscience wouldn’t let me grind down a regular wrench :-)
I bought a set of thin wrenches from Olsatools that work perfectly for Mercedes calipers. Good quality and fairly inexpensive. My conscience wouldn’t let me grind down a regular wrench :-)
I was doing the brakes in my parents driveway and I didn't even know about this issue until I was trying to fit the wrench in there, my father said hold on and grabbed his angle grinder. Seemed like a great idea at the time. Still works perfectly, just a little slimmer. Plus its a Craftsman so guaranteed for life. The tool guy Tom at my local Lowes is awesome, I just bring in a broken Crasftman tool and he lets me pick out another, he breaks off the sku tag and takes my broken one and I leave. I don't even have to go to the front desk or fill anything out. But its only with him, everyone else there has no idea what im talking about when im holding out a broken tool saying I want to exchange it, they all say I have to go to the front desk. Now ill just look for Tom, if hes not there I wont even bother and wait until another day. Im always replacing flat head screwdrivers because I use them as chisels
Update: noise is from bad transfer case (bearings). Rebuild kits appear available online.
The car has under 75k miles, and most mechanics will say they have never see a 4matic t-case go out on a w204 c300.
In contrast, I was told by one mechanic that the t-case has trouble getting oil fed to it, due to poor design and too narrow a feed tube. The fix is to remove the external feed tube and bore out the internal feed.
Questions:
Do the t-case and 722.9 transmission share the same oil (from the same pan)?
Are the t-case and transmission a single combined unit? Per some google images, it appears the t-case can still be disconnected from the transmission by removing the bolts. But maybe is still considered unified unit to the transmission.
Can you rebuild the t-case easily? Would you use the kits available online?
Is 75k pre-mature for these cases to go out or are they known to go out? A forum search says it is common but as mentioned, MOST mechanics never see a t-case come in @ these miles.
10-05-2023, 02:57 PM
