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Check Engine Light P0299 Turbo Underboost 2015 C300
I got a check engine light a week ago. The code is P0299 Turbo Underboost. I took the car to Mercedes Service they said:
1. I need a new pressure valve part number 000-153-18-59 ($250) 2. I need a new water pump ($916) I'm not sure how the water pump is related to the turbo boost. Can anyone help me out by explaining how they are related. Dealer says that tested it and it's coming back as failing and that its leaking vacuum from the turbo. It wasn't leaking coolant nor did the car ever overheat. I had them change the pressure valve first. I drove the car home and check engine light came back on. The car is a 2015 C300 with 75k miles. I have had several Mercedes vehicles over the years and I never had to change a water pump. I had an ML350 with 196k miles before I sold it not 1 major issue. I guess my luck with Mercedes has run out. |
I spoke with the technician who diagnosed my car. He indicated that the water pump is actuated by the car's vacuum. The water pump actuator on my car is leaking vacuum and as a result the turbo waste gate which is also actuated by the car's vacuum is not operating properly hence the check engine light.
Attached is a pic of the water pump. The actuator comes with the pump as one part. It looks like a it's pain to get to under the hood. I'm not sure why it's designed this way. I thought water pumps were always on. I saw another post on this forum about the C300's overheating. This is probably the cause. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...e72304c840.jpg W205 Coolant Pump |
Here is a YouTube video of the pump being actuated:
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Originally Posted by hiawan
(Post 7287519)
I spoke with the technician who diagnosed my car. He indicated that the water pump is actuated by the car's vacuum. The water pump actuator on my car is leaking vacuum and as a result the turbo waste gate which is also actuated by the car's vacuum is not operating properly hence the check engine light.
Attached is a pic of the water pump. The actuator comes with the pump as one part. It looks like a it's pain to get to under the hood. I'm not sure why it's designed this way. I thought water pumps were always on. I saw another post on this forum about the C300's overheating. This is probably the cause. |
I wanted to give everyone an update. I had the dealer replace the pressure valve (part number 000-153-18-59 $250) only. As expected the check engine light came back on my way home.
I removed the the vacuum line from the water pump and plugged it temporarily to isolate what the dealer said was the problem. This did not fix the issue. The check engine light p0299 comes on after hard acceleration and the car goes into limp mode where there is no power to the wheels after 4k RPM. This only happens when the car is hot. |
Are you out of warranty coverage?
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Originally Posted by RunwayOneSix
(Post 7313707)
Are you out of warranty coverage?
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The vacuum line is to the computer controlled thermostat. It uses vacuum to actuate an ice cream scoop looking flapper which speeds up or slows down the amount of coolant that goes in and out of the motor and to the radiator. Have you ever noticed how fast the car warms up and then will drop like 1/2 way down and then come back up? I don't think this is linked to the underboost issues. The underboost issue could be the wastegate flapper getting stuck open or there could actually be a boost leak in the piping system somewhere. Have them do a boost pressure test. If you have a leak, it'll show up. If no leak, I would look at the actuator. If nothing there, try unplugging the ECU and allowing it to reset 100% to the base mapping without any of the learned strategy and see if that fixes it.
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the real issue here is that mercedes is JUNK and that they design their cars to FAIL. I work at a private shop and work a lot on benzes and i drive a benz too, but the newer stuff is just garbage. All plastic housings, prone to leak, prone to break, plastic vacuum lines brittle as ****, We had a gla 250 today with 35,000km with check engine and needed a thermostat. Well guess what? The intake manifold has to come out, to do the thermostat housing. I can't blame mercedes fully, but most new cars are designed overly complex, with no quality parts that warranty the complexity of the situation. High pressure pumps failing, turbos leaking, and all your money spent that you supposedly saved at the pump + more now. Buy a tesla , the gas industry is a conspiracy in itself.
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Originally Posted by hiawan
(Post 7282002)
I'm not sure how the water pump is related to the turbo boost. Can anyone help me out by explaining how they are related.
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Originally Posted by TurboKits.com
(Post 7332937)
The vacuum line is to the computer controlled thermostat. It uses vacuum to actuate an ice cream scoop looking flapper which speeds up or slows down the amount of coolant that goes in and out of the motor and to the radiator. Have you ever noticed how fast the car warms up and then will drop like 1/2 way down and then come back up? I don't think this is linked to the underboost issues. The underboost issue could be the wastegate flapper getting stuck open or there could actually be a boost leak in the piping system somewhere. Have them do a boost pressure test. If you have a leak, it'll show up. If no leak, I would look at the actuator. If nothing there, try unplugging the ECU and allowing it to reset 100% to the base mapping without any of the learned strategy and see if that fixes it.
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Originally Posted by Joeydistio
(Post 7652786)
how do I unplug the ECU |
Originally Posted by TurboKits.com
(Post 7332937)
The vacuum line is to the computer controlled thermostat. It uses vacuum to actuate an ice cream scoop looking flapper which speeds up or slows down the amount of coolant that goes in and out of the motor and to the radiator. Have you ever noticed how fast the car warms up and then will drop like 1/2 way down and then come back up? I don't think this is linked to the underboost issues. The underboost issue could be the wastegate flapper getting stuck open or there could actually be a boost leak in the piping system somewhere. Have them do a boost pressure test. If you have a leak, it'll show up. If no leak, I would look at the actuator. If nothing there, try unplugging the ECU and allowing it to reset 100% to the base mapping without any of the learned strategy and see if that fixes it.
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Originally Posted by Popoff
(Post 7654650)
Strictly subjective, it seems like my '16 C300 takes an inordinately long time to completely warm up. I drive 3 miles to the Interstate and then another 3 miles at interstate speed before the car reaches full operating temperature. Dealer says it's normal. I don't see the fast warm up, drop down, and then back up you describe. Is there anything specific that can be checked to see if the computer controlled thermostat system is functioning properly?
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Turbo underboost on GLK 250 Bluetec
Hi there, just wanted to leave my experience with this issue: last week I was driving on the mountains when suddenly I decided to lower a gear or 2 to reduce the downhill speed... well I guess I reved the engine too much, almost hit the red bars. I was able to go all the way to the bottom of the mountains with no problems until when I tried to pass a car I realized the engine had no power, the limp mode kicked in. I thought it was the transmission but moments later the check engine came out, this actually happen after I turned off the engine to get rid of the limp mode, I decided to plug an CEL Reader and the P0299 came. Then I loked under the hood and guess what? Burst pipe... see pictures. Since I needed to return home and drive thru the mountains I decided to place a bandaid... clean the crack with alcohol, fill it with ABS cement, then place a fiberglass matrix over the abs and then more abs around... I placed a total of 3 layers of abs, and let it dry for the night, the car has been working fine but, again this is a band aid while the replacement part arrives. I got the original pipe for 100 bucks from the Mercedes Benz of Miami (online) shipping included and no tax. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...a53c36092.jpeg Air charge pipe damaged (due to excessive rev/pressure) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...514b7adb3.jpeg Air charge pipe (repaired) https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...df158a80c.jpeg Repaired pipe installed https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...12d78a6b0.jpeg View from under the car |
what's the parts number
Originally Posted by Orlando Torres
(Post 7675046)
Hi there, just wanted to leave my experience with this issue: last week I was driving on the mountains when suddenly I decided to lower a gear or 2 to reduce the downhill speed... well I guess I reved the engine too much, almost hit the red bars. I was able to go all the way to the bottom of the mountains with no problems until when I tried to pass a car I realized the engine had no power, the limp mode kicked in. I thought it was the transmission but moments later the check engine came out, this actually happen after I turned off the engine to get rid of the limp mode, I decided to plug an CEL Reader and the P0299 came. Then I loked under the hood and guess what? Burst pipe... see pictures. Since I needed to return home and drive thru the mountains I decided to place a bandaid... clean the crack with alcohol, fill it with ABS cement, then place a fiberglass matrix over the abs and then more abs around... I placed a total of 3 layers of abs, and let it dry for the night, the car has been working fine but, again this is a band aid while the replacement part arrives. I got the original pipe for 100 bucks from the Mercedes Benz of Miami (online) shipping included and no tax. ... .................................................. ............... would you please help me with the part number and where to buy it? thank you very much |
Originally Posted by ddggdd
(Post 7738153)
I can't believe I got the same burst pipe, will post a picture when get a clear view
would you please help me with the part number and where to buy it? thank you very much |
it's a 2013 glk250 bluetech
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Originally Posted by ddggdd
(Post 7738484)
it's a 2013 glk250 bluetech
i got it from mbpartsmiami.com... it is very easy to replace. Mb dealer quoted $700 here in Cali... indy mechanic $470.... i did it it for less than $100... let me know now if you need anything else.... |
thank you very much, will post a picture, a narrow opening and hard to focus, will try to take it off this week.
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very hard to take picture without a good working light
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...e787aacde0.jpg also find this part in EPC https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...90616019e1.jpg |
Originally Posted by Orlando Torres
(Post 7738520)
ok, if you are sure is the same pipe [img]blob:https://mbworld.org/5ddfdba4-7dbc-42...8-0a67e44ddfff
i got it from mbpartsmiami.com... it is very easy to replace. Mb dealer quoted $700 here in Cali... indy mechanic $470.... i did it it for less than $100... let me know now if you need anything else.... and do you use a special tool to unloose the string clamp? the space to unlock the two clamps seem very limited, any tips to share? https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...64572d8cd9.jpg |
Engine By Renault...
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Originally Posted by Orlando Torres
(Post 7675046)
Thanks |
And u know this how?
(question to Akbar Service) |
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