How To: DYI Swap from Halogen to Static LEDs
Many folks on this forum have lamented the fact that they skipped the LED headlight option when purchasing their 2015-2018 W205. I'm one of those folks. My wife picked the car out and I didn't get a good look at the front. Well, we got the halogens. While my wife doesn't care, I do. So before we even made it off the lot, I hatched a plan to retrofit the LED clusters. If you don't believe this is possible, see the photo below (Hint: There is something wrong about this): http://www.endoimage.com/Mercedes/P1080378.JPG Before I start, I want to clear up a few of things. First, going from halogens to Static LED's is not an easy swap. It involves buying a decent set of LED headlights, partially disassembling them, then rewiring them so they work with the halogen headlight wiring. So don't believe the write-ups that state all you need is a harness. In fact, I did this swap in such a way as to leave everything on the car untouched by only modifying the LED headlights. This way the car can be returned back to halogens, if need be, with little trouble. There is no intermediate harness either. The car's headlight plug is connected directly to the headlight assembly. Secondly, this writeup is about transforming a US/Canadian spec 2015-2018 C300 to static LED headlights. Conversion to active headlights is not covered and would likely be unfeasible, short of reprogramming the car and swapping out a good bit of hardware. Thirdly, my method for modifying the LED headlights is irreversible, meaning the LED headlights can't be returned to their original configuration. However, removing the lenses of the headlights is not required. Lastly, this swap does not involve reprogramming the vehicle. The car will act as though nothing has changed. Before embarking on this project, please read this entire how-to. Functionality: As this modification is for US market cars using US market Static LED headlights, the headlights will function with the following functions/limitations:
$400-$1000 in total depending on the cost of the LED headlights. Supplies other than the headlights runs about $200. Required Tools: Basic hand tools including metric Allen wrenches and sockets Soldering iron Heat gun Digital Multi-Meter Torx bits/screwdriver: T-8 and T-20 3/64 flat head jeweler's screwdriver Recommended tools: 12 volt, 5 amp fixed or variable power supply Reading glasses Headlamp Label Making Machine Magnetic and mechanical bolt retrievers Supplies: Solder 1/16, 1/8 and 3/16 inch heat shrink 22 AWG stranded wire in black 18 AWG stranded wire in black 8 x 4-32 x 3/8" flat head screws and nuts Heat sink compound (recommended) Components: 4 x DC-DC 700mA LED Driver (LuxDrive BuckBoost 700mA, A011-D-V-500): $18 each 2 x DC-DC 500mA LED Driver (LuxDrive BuckBoost 500mA, A011-D-V-700): $18 each 2 x DC-DC 250mA LED Driver (LuxDrive BuckBoost 250mA, A011-D-V-250): $18 each 6 x 6 Ohm 50 watt resistors: $45 total Left and Right static LED headlight assembly for a US Spec 2015-2018 Mercedes Benz C300: $300-$800 Skill Level: Advanced (8/10) Soldering skills required Reading and understanding voltage, current and continuity Operating a digital multimeter Ability to disassemble the headlights and grill of the vehicle Courage Required: Medium (7/10) Willingness to tear into a $50k Mercedes (ok a $47k Mercedes because you skipped the LED headlights) Willingness to destroy a $300-$800 set of headlights by melting them or shorting them out Time: ~20 hours Sourcing Headlights: Headlights can be sourced off e-bay. Read the E-Bay seller's notes carefully for any damage. Damage can make the assemblies difficult to mount (broken tabs) or may lead to water ingress into the assemblies (impact damage). Headlights can be sourced without the "LED Modules" or "Ballasts" but at a minimum, the LED module in the upper outside corner of the headlight is required. There is no difference among the model years. Assemblies sourced outside the US may have differing wiring or additional modules. Assemblies cost approximately $400 each in like new shape with no scratches or damage. Mine came with both modules, all the mounting hardware and the rubber gap seals. Assemblies missing components or with damage can cost as little as $150. All assemblies will contain the LED modules for the high beams, low beams, turn signals and side marker light. The module for the daytime running light is removable and may be missing. If you purchase a headlight without this module, you will need to purchase this separately. The module on the underside of the assembly is not required but is desirable as it seals the headlight and acts as a heatsink. "Headlight module" is a reference to one of the two metal assemblies attached to the outside of the housing and removable via a number of screws. In an eBay listing, these may be referred to as "LED modules", "Ballasts" or "Controllers". For the static headlights in the US, there are two of these modules for each headlight. One is located at the bottom of the headlight assembly. It is approximately 3"x4" with a depth of 1". This assembly contains the controllers for the LEDs. I'll refer to it as the "Controller Module". This unit is held in place with 4 Torx screws. The second module is approximately 2" square and contains the LED module and heatsink for the daytime running lights (DRL's). I'll refer to this module as the "DRL Module". This unit is held in place with 3 Torx screws. Note that a rubber gasket is used to seal the joint with the headlight. Be sure this gasket is present if you order this module separately from the headlight. Care must be taken when handling the DRL module as the LED's are exposed and vulnerable to damage when it is removed from the headlight assembly. Note that when ordering these modules separately, you will need the mounting screws for them. Driving LED's: Headlight assemblies like these use high brightness LED arrays. Each beam assembly is made of multiple LED's. To illuminate an LED, which is a diode, a minimum amount of voltage is needed. This is called forward voltage or Vf. When LED are assembled in a string or matrix, the voltage required to illuminate the assembly increases. In the case of headlights, forward voltage is usually well above the voltage supplied by the car. Voltage requirements for LED headlight modules can be well above 40V, requiring a voltage booster to light off the LED's. Once illuminated, the LED starts producing both light and heat. Left unchecked, as heat rises, resistance starts dropping allowing more current through the LED. Very quickly, the LED will experience thermal runaway, exceeding 160 degrees C, with higher heat allowing ever more current through until the LED destroys itself. Thus a means to limit current is required for longevity in LED's. With low power LED's a resistor will do. With high brightness LED's a current limiting driver is required to maximize performance and LED life. Most LED drivers limit current to a constant value. This is a practical way to drive an LED without overly complex circuitry. The design in this write-up uses constant current boosting LED drivers to run these LED modules. The LED modules for the high beams, low beams, turn signal and DRL's cannot be driven directly from a vehicle's 12V system. Even if the forward voltage of the LED assembly is low enough, unlimited current will destroy the module quickly. Therefore it is unwise to hook any of these LED modules up to a direct battery connection. The exception is the side maker light. The headlight assembly contains the LED driver necessary to run this light and 12V can be fed directly to it. Mercedes Design of the Static LED's: Mercedes, being very German, designed the static LED headlights to very high standards. Their design ensures long life for the LED's, exact color temperature of the emitted light and integrates seamlessly with all the other vehicle systems. The static LED's being the simplest of the LED headlight offerings has the fewest features; however, some of the design complexity needed for such things as active headlights, is partially incorporated into the design of the static LED headlights. Therefore, the design of the electronics of the headlight is unnecessarily complex for the simple functionality but is retained for the sake of standardization among the LED headlight assemblies. While I won't cover all the components needed to drive these headlights, I'll cover the main components here. Mercedes LED Drivers: Each controller module contains two ON Semiconductor high current dual channel driver chips. Each chip can drive two LED strings or modules with up to 1.6 amps of current at 60VDC. One chip drives the high beam and low beam assemblies, the other drives the turn signal and DRL assemblies. These are constant current drivers, but they can vary the current based upon any number of preprogrammed factors. In the case of these headlights and DRL's, Mercedes uses LED module base plate temperature to protect the LED's from over-temperature damage. The design sends a fixed current to the LED modules, but if the temperature limit is exceeded, the driver reduces the current or removes power entirely. This protection is implemented for the high beam, low beam and DRL. The turn signal LED's are not monitored for temperature. To measure the LED temperature, Mercedes uses a thermistor on each LED assembly. This serves as a proxy measurement of the LED's junction temperature, which is the critical controlling factor in the life of the LED. Thermistor resistance values are captured by a separate ON Semiconductor chip and are used to set the current fed to each LED string. Information is passed between these three semiconductor chips via a local interconnect network (LIN). Commands for the headlight module (i.e. low beams "ON") are passed to these modules via a CAN bus through a CAN buss controller and onto the LIN. Status is relayed to the vehicle using the same system. Therefore, it is not possible to hack the existing controller module to run the headlights. We need separate drivers. I chose to use constant current LED drivers, as the simplicity of these drivers gives up little in bulb life while greatly reducing the complexity of the system. Replacing the Mercedes LED Drivers: Replacing the drivers requires knowing a significant amount about each LED module. One needs to know the forward voltage, maximum junction temperature limit and current limit at a minimum. While I was able to determine a lot about these headlights, forward voltage and current limits were not available. Searching the internet, I did determine that Mercedes low beam LED headlights like this use a combined total of 34 watts. Assuming this was measured at a nominal 13.5V, this would indicate that each low beam headlight is using around .800mA of current. This seems about right and servs as a starting point. Using a variable voltage, current limiting power supply, I was able to directly drive each headlight module, first determining the forward voltage, then experimenting with the current limit to see where an increase of current fails to yield a commensurate increase in LED brightness. I determined the thermistor resistance/temperature and read the LED module temperatures by measuring the resistance across the thermistor. This method allowed me to graph the performance of each LED cluster and estimate the maximum safe operating current. The temperature values were further confirmed by taking direct thermocouple readings off the DRL module. Note the turn signal does not have a thermistor, therefore it was likely designed to run at a set current. To prolong LED life, I chose to keep the measured temperature at the LED assemblies below 60 degrees C. This equates to an LED junction temperature of between 80-90 degrees C. For more details on the performance and testing of these headlights, I'll be posting another thread with the test data. Wiring the Headlights: As stated before, I wanted to avoid modifying the Mercedes harness. This meant all the changes needed to happen within the headlight. My goal was to minimize the changes to the headlight and avoid and warnings from the vehicle. The changes I made to the LED headlight assembly are not readily reversable. The controller modules were disassembled, likely destroying the electronics, but the heatsink was retained. No changes were made to the LED assemblies within the headlight housing. Headlight Plug Preparation: Rewiring the headlight starts with rewiring the headlight socket. This socket contains spots for 14 pins. The LED headlight socket uses 7 pins. The halogen plug from the car, while physically compatible, uses 6 to 10 pins. We will only use five of them as we have to drive the DRL's off the side marker circuit. The halogen DRL circuit operates at a lower voltage and current than the Static LED DRL, thus the Static LED DRL only dimly illuminates when run off the halogen DRL circuit. So we eliminate one of the pins. Only 1 of these pins are used in common between the two sockets, which means 4 pins need to be reconfigured within the Static LED headlight socket. This requires snapping the socket loose so it can be pulled out through the hole for the controller module.
To avoid headlight malfunction errors from occurring, the vehicle needs to be tricked into believing the halogen bulbs are still connected. This applies to the high beam, low beam and turn signal circuits. The DRL and side marker light circuits are not monitored. Unfortunately, this means simulating the loads of the halogen bulbs, thus requiring resistors. The resistors draw current by creating and dissipating heat. The removes the energy efficiency advantages of LEDs. It’s the only real trade-off required for this modification. To dissipate the heat as effectively as possible, I chose to repurpose the controller module's aluminum housing. I made the following modifications:
In this section we modify the 32 pin plug and 2 pin Controller Power plug for the controller module. De-pinning is only required for the below pins. To de-pin the 32 pin plug, with the locking mechanism removed, use a sharp object or a 3/64" flat head screw driver to press in on the side of the pin through the opening in the side of the plug. Do this while applying steady pressure to the wire. For the two pin plug, simply cut and strip the wires after labeling them. Wait to shrink the heat shrink until all the connections have been tested for continuity. De-Pining the 32 Pin Plug:
http://www.endoimage.com/Mercedes/P1080416.JPG I'm not going to cover all the steps for removing and replacing the headlights on the vehicle, but will cover the important points:
Old Ag |
WOW, such a great post!!! you really have the skills!!!
I have two concerns, will it void the manufacturer warranty? second, without the DRL, there is really no significant improvement. I bought the plug&plug dual LEDs headlight set, it is on the way, should get by next week. it has all the functions, but it is not the OEM. cost roughly same amount. let us have a comparison! such a great post, thanks, bro! |
BTW, can you post some photos to show how to take the OEM headlights out? I need to install mine pretty soon, it will be very helpful! thank you in advance.
|
Originally Posted by paulatl
(Post 7456760)
WOW, such a great post!!! you really have the skills!!!
I have two concerns, will it void the manufacturer warranty? second, without the DRL, there is really no significant improvement. I bought the plug&plug dual LEDs headlight set, it is on the way, should get by next week. it has all the functions, but it is not the OEM. cost roughly same amount. let us have a comparison! such a great post, thanks, bro! A plug and play solution is not possible without either having very dim DRL’s or by just settling for the DRLs working as parking lights. Your plug and play lights will need an external wire for the DRL’s to get enough amperage to operate correctly. And even operating the way mine do, this is a significant improvement. The DRL lamps do operate, they just don’t quite work the way they used to. The only difference is that there is nothing illuminated when the light switch is in auto during the daylight. This can be fixed, but it takes additional wiring and relays under the hood. Lastly, my solution is much less than $1400 US. I payed top dollar for my OEM headlights and the whole thing was still under $1000. You can do it for less than $500 if you do well finding the headlights. But, if I had to do it over, I would have bought the car with the LED headlights. Old Ag |
Originally Posted by paulatl
(Post 7456762)
BTW, can you post some photos to show how to take the OEM headlights out? I need to install mine pretty soon, it will be very helpful! thank you in advance.
Old Ag |
Originally Posted by Old Ag
(Post 7456787)
Wether it will void the warranty is upto your dealer, but it shouldn’t except for the headlights, of course. A plug and play solution is not possible without either having very dim DRL’s or by just settling for the DRLs working as parking lights. Your plug and play lights will need an external wire for the DRL’s to get enough amperage to operate correctly. And even operating the way mine do, this is a significant improvement. The DRL lamps do operate, they just don’t quite work the way they used to. The only difference is that there is nothing illuminated when the light switch is in auto during the daylight. This can be fixed, but it takes additional wiring and relays under the hood. Lastly, my solution is much less than $1400 US. I payed top dollar for my OEM headlights and the whole thing was still under $1000. You can do it for less than $500 if you do well finding the headlights. But, if I had to do it over, I would have bought the car with the LED headlights. Old Ag the manufacturer have this dual leds for long time, but only sell it at middle east, there is no error code, no extra coding. let see how it works. I just bought a a lumen meter from amazon, I want to measure the bright, if possible , can you help me measure the OEM bright level? Let us compare. Either way will benefit our c class community. Thanks |
BTW, 20 hours worth about 1k, I assume most of us have income in this level.
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This is one of the best write-ups I've seen in a long time. Awesome job with the pictures and detailed steps!
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Luckily I have the LED's, so I wont be test driving your write up - but even without, it was a pleasure to peruse your work. Really awesome work, thanks for sharing!
I also suggest a raise significantly higher than the above alluded 'income level' - this modification is not hamburger flipping!!! ;-) |
Originally Posted by CA_E55
(Post 7456939)
Luckily I have the LED's, so I wont be test driving your write up - but even without, it was a pleasure to peruse your work. Really awesome work, thanks for sharing!
I also suggest a raise significantly higher than the above alluded 'income level' - this modification is not hamburger flipping!!! ;-) I can not do such work and have to hire a professional to do that, it will cost a lot. I am sorry if my post is offensive to anyone. I have spent more than 20 hours for searching the aftermarket headlight and finally find the right one. I do not understand why the post starter says my DRL requires extra part (relay), even so, the manufacturer already put one when design. they told me there should be no need for extra parts and coding. I will share my user experience after few days, I just want to get some appreciations from this community. I really spend a lot of time on searching the right part, from Taiwan to the Middle East!!! |
Originally Posted by paulatl
(Post 7457135)
...I do not understand why the post starter says my DRL requires extra part (relay), even so, the manufacturer already put one when design.
they told me there should be no need for extra parts and coding.. Here's the problem: the car's wiring to the halogen DRL only provides 8.69V at no more than 200mA of current. Both the voltage and current are capped as there is an LED driver in the vehicle somewhere providing this power. This is too low a voltage to successfully run the Static LED DRLs directly or power any LED driver to the point of operating the static LED DRL's. The OEM Static DRL's run at almost 12V and 250mA or about 3 watts of power. The DRL's in the halogen headlights are supplied by a driver that provides less than than 2 watts. It may not seem like much of a difference, but even using an LED booster I was not able to get the DRLs to run at an acceptable brightness. They also flickered, probably from running the LED driver at a lower voltage than it was rated for. So for me, the only solution is to get power from elsewhere and use the DRL power from the car to switch a relay which would then provide the necessary power to run the driver for the Static LED DRL module. To do that, I would have to tap into a 12V source somewhere else in the vehicle and run a wire to each headlight in addition to adding a relay for each light. I chose not to do that, although I may change my mind in the future. Probably what the manufacturer of your headlight did was use a less powerful set of LED's for the DRL that could be run directly from the vehicle's DRL circuit. But they would be less bright than the Mercedes Static LED DRL as they are still limited to about 1/2 the power. Old Ag |
Originally Posted by Old Ag
(Post 7457228)
I look forward to hearing how your replacement headlight works. But for the Mercedes Static LED headlight, the DRL circuit in the halogen equipped car doesn't provide enough power to run the DRL, even with an LED booster driver.
Here's the problem: the car's wiring to the halogen DRL only provides 8.69V at no more than 200mA of current. Both the voltage and current are capped as there is an LED driver in the vehicle somewhere providing this power. This is too low a voltage to successfully run the Static LED DRLs directly or power any LED driver to the point of operating the static LED DRL's. The OEM Static DRL's run at almost 12V and 250mA or about 3 watts of power. The DRL's in the halogen headlights are supplied by a driver that provides less than than 2 watts. It may not seem like much of a difference, but even using an LED booster I was not able to get the DRLs to run at an acceptable brightness. They also flickered, probably from running the LED driver at a lower voltage than it was rated for. So for me, the only solution is to get power from elsewhere and use the DRL power from the car to switch a relay which would then provide the necessary power to run the driver for the Static LED DRL module. To do that, I would have to tap into a 12V source somewhere else in the vehicle and run a wire to each headlight in addition to adding a relay for each light. I chose not to do that, although I may change my mind in the future. Probably what the manufacturer of your headlight did was use a less powerful set of LED's for the DRL that could be run directly from the vehicle's DRL circuit. But they would be less bright than the Mercedes Static LED DRL as they are still limited to about 1/2 the power. Old Ag |
If you checked my post, the video shows the DRL is pretty good. My item arrived the NYC, and I live at Atlanta. should get it soon. can not wait. .
|
Originally Posted by Old Ag
(Post 7457228)
I look forward to hearing how your replacement headlight works. But for the Mercedes Static LED headlight, the DRL circuit in the halogen equipped car doesn't provide enough power to run the DRL, even with an LED booster driver.
Here's the problem: the car's wiring to the halogen DRL only provides 8.69V at no more than 200mA of current. Both the voltage and current are capped as there is an LED driver in the vehicle somewhere providing this power. This is too low a voltage to successfully run the Static LED DRLs directly or power any LED driver to the point of operating the static LED DRL's. The OEM Static DRL's run at almost 12V and 250mA or about 3 watts of power. The DRL's in the halogen headlights are supplied by a driver that provides less than than 2 watts. It may not seem like much of a difference, but even using an LED booster I was not able to get the DRLs to run at an acceptable brightness. They also flickered, probably from running the LED driver at a lower voltage than it was rated for. So for me, the only solution is to get power from elsewhere and use the DRL power from the car to switch a relay which would then provide the necessary power to run the driver for the Static LED DRL module. To do that, I would have to tap into a 12V source somewhere else in the vehicle and run a wire to each headlight in addition to adding a relay for each light. I chose not to do that, although I may change my mind in the future. Probably what the manufacturer of your headlight did was use a less powerful set of LED's for the DRL that could be run directly from the vehicle's DRL circuit. But they would be less bright than the Mercedes Static LED DRL as they are still limited to about 1/2 the power. Old Ag |
Great post!!
Very detailed. Everyone should be able to do this now. However i am glad i already have ILS in mine. |
Full led same story?
|
Originally Posted by Old Ag
(Post 7456544)
Many folks on this forum have lamented the fact that they skipped the LED headlight option when purchasing their 2015-2018 W205. I'm one of those folks. My wife picked the car out and I didn't get a good look at the front. Well, we got the halogens. While my wife doesn't care, I do. So before we even made it off the lot, I hatched a plan to retrofit the LED clusters. If you don't believe this is possible, see the photo below (Hint: There is something wrong about this): http://www.endoimage.com/Mercedes/P1080378.JPG Before I start, I want to clear up a few of things. First, going from halogens to Static LED's is not an easy swap. It involves buying a decent set of LED headlights, partially disassembling them, then rewiring them so they work with the halogen headlight wiring. So don't believe the write-ups that state all you need is a harness. In fact, I did this swap in such a way as to leave everything on the car untouched by only modifying the LED headlights. This way the car can be returned back to halogens, if need be, with little trouble. There is no intermediate harness either. The car's headlight plug is connected directly to the headlight assembly. Secondly, this writeup is about transforming a US/Canadian spec 2015-2018 C300 to static LED headlights. Conversion to active headlights is not covered and would likely be unfeasible, short of reprogramming the car and swapping out a good bit of hardware. Thirdly, my method for modifying the LED headlights is irreversible, meaning the LED headlights can't be returned to their original configuration. However, removing the lenses of the headlights is not required. Lastly, this swap does not involve reprogramming the vehicle. The car will act as though nothing has changed. Before embarking on this project, please read this entire how-to. Functionality: As this modification is for US market cars using US market Static LED headlights, the headlights will function with the following functions/limitations:
$400-$1000 in total depending on the cost of the LED headlights. Supplies other than the headlights runs about $200. Required Tools: Basic hand tools including metric Allen wrenches and sockets Soldering iron Heat gun Digital Multi-Meter Torx bits/screwdriver: T-8 and T-20 3/64 flat head jeweler's screwdriver Recommended tools: 12 volt, 5 amp fixed or variable power supply Reading glasses Headlamp Label Making Machine Magnetic and mechanical bolt retrievers Supplies: Solder 1/16, 1/8 and 3/16 inch heat shrink 22 AWG stranded wire in black 18 AWG stranded wire in black 8 x 4-32 x 3/8" flat head screws and nuts Heat sink compound (recommended) Components: 4 x DC-DC 700mA LED Driver (LuxDrive BuckBoost 700mA, A011-D-V-500): $18 each 2 x DC-DC 500mA LED Driver (LuxDrive BuckBoost 500mA, A011-D-V-700): $18 each 2 x DC-DC 250mA LED Driver (LuxDrive BuckBoost 250mA, A011-D-V-250): $18 each 6 x 6 Ohm 50 watt resistors: $45 total Left and Right static LED headlight assembly for a US Spec 2015-2018 Mercedes Benz C300: $300-$800 Skill Level: Advanced (8/10) Soldering skills required Reading and understanding voltage, current and continuity Operating a digital multimeter Ability to disassemble the headlights and grill of the vehicle Courage Required: Medium (7/10) Willingness to tear into a $50k Mercedes (ok a $47k Mercedes because you skipped the LED headlights) Willingness to destroy a $300-$800 set of headlights by melting them or shorting them out Time: ~20 hours Sourcing Headlights: Headlights can be sourced off e-bay. Read the E-Bay seller's notes carefully for any damage. Damage can make the assemblies difficult to mount (broken tabs) or may lead to water ingress into the assemblies (impact damage). Headlights can be sourced without the "LED Modules" or "Ballasts" but at a minimum, the LED module in the upper outside corner of the headlight is required. There is no difference among the model years. Assemblies sourced outside the US may have differing wiring or additional modules. Assemblies cost approximately $400 each in like new shape with no scratches or damage. Mine came with both modules, all the mounting hardware and the rubber gap seals. Assemblies missing components or with damage can cost as little as $150. All assemblies will contain the LED modules for the high beams, low beams, turn signals and side marker light. The module for the daytime running light is removable and may be missing. If you purchase a headlight without this module, you will need to purchase this separately. The module on the underside of the assembly is not required but is desirable as it seals the headlight and acts as a heatsink. "Headlight module" is a reference to one of the two metal assemblies attached to the outside of the housing and removable via a number of screws. In an eBay listing, these may be referred to as "LED modules", "Ballasts" or "Controllers". For the static headlights in the US, there are two of these modules for each headlight. One is located at the bottom of the headlight assembly. It is approximately 3"x4" with a depth of 1". This assembly contains the controllers for the LEDs. I'll refer to it as the "Controller Module". This unit is held in place with 4 Torx screws. The second module is approximately 2" square and contains the LED module and heatsink for the daytime running lights (DRL's). I'll refer to this module as the "DRL Module". This unit is held in place with 3 Torx screws. Note that a rubber gasket is used to seal the joint with the headlight. Be sure this gasket is present if you order this module separately from the headlight. Care must be taken when handling the DRL module as the LED's are exposed and vulnerable to damage when it is removed from the headlight assembly. Note that when ordering these modules separately, you will need the mounting screws for them. Driving LED's: Headlight assemblies like these use high brightness LED arrays. Each beam assembly is made of multiple LED's. To illuminate an LED, which is a diode, a minimum amount of voltage is needed. This is called forward voltage or Vf. When LED are assembled in a string or matrix, the voltage required to illuminate the assembly increases. In the case of headlights, forward voltage is usually well above the voltage supplied by the car. Voltage requirements for LED headlight modules can be well above 40V, requiring a voltage booster to light off the LED's. Once illuminated, the LED starts producing both light and heat. Left unchecked, as heat rises, resistance starts dropping allowing more current through the LED. Very quickly, the LED will experience thermal runaway, exceeding 160 degrees C, with higher heat allowing ever more current through until the LED destroys itself. Thus a means to limit current is required for longevity in LED's. With low power LED's a resistor will do. With high brightness LED's a current limiting driver is required to maximize performance and LED life. Most LED drivers limit current to a constant value. This is a practical way to drive an LED without overly complex circuitry. The design in this write-up uses constant current boosting LED drivers to run these LED modules. The LED modules for the high beams, low beams, turn signal and DRL's cannot be driven directly from a vehicle's 12V system. Even if the forward voltage of the LED assembly is low enough, unlimited current will destroy the module quickly. Therefore it is unwise to hook any of these LED modules up to a direct battery connection. The exception is the side maker light. The headlight assembly contains the LED driver necessary to run this light and 12V can be fed directly to it. Mercedes Design of the Static LED's: Mercedes, being very German, designed the static LED headlights to very high standards. Their design ensures long life for the LED's, exact color temperature of the emitted light and integrates seamlessly with all the other vehicle systems. The static LED's being the simplest of the LED headlight offerings has the fewest features; however, some of the design complexity needed for such things as active headlights, is partially incorporated into the design of the static LED headlights. Therefore, the design of the electronics of the headlight is unnecessarily complex for the simple functionality but is retained for the sake of standardization among the LED headlight assemblies. While I won't cover all the components needed to drive these headlights, I'll cover the main components here. Mercedes LED Drivers: Each controller module contains two ON Semiconductor high current dual channel driver chips. Each chip can drive two LED strings or modules with up to 1.6 amps of current at 60VDC. One chip drives the high beam and low beam assemblies, the other drives the turn signal and DRL assemblies. These are constant current drivers, but they can vary the current based upon any number of preprogrammed factors. In the case of these headlights and DRL's, Mercedes uses LED module base plate temperature to protect the LED's from over-temperature damage. The design sends a fixed current to the LED modules, but if the temperature limit is exceeded, the driver reduces the current or removes power entirely. This protection is implemented for the high beam, low beam and DRL. The turn signal LED's are not monitored for temperature. To measure the LED temperature, Mercedes uses a thermistor on each LED assembly. This serves as a proxy measurement of the LED's junction temperature, which is the critical controlling factor in the life of the LED. Thermistor resistance values are captured by a separate ON Semiconductor chip and are used to set the current fed to each LED string. Information is passed between these three semiconductor chips via a local interconnect network (LIN). Commands for the headlight module (i.e. low beams "ON") are passed to these modules via a CAN bus through a CAN buss controller and onto the LIN. Status is relayed to the vehicle using the same system. Therefore, it is not possible to hack the existing controller module to run the headlights. We need separate drivers. I chose to use constant current LED drivers, as the simplicity of these drivers gives up little in bulb life while greatly reducing the complexity of the system. Replacing the Mercedes LED Drivers: Replacing the drivers requires knowing a significant amount about each LED module. One needs to know the forward voltage, maximum junction temperature limit and current limit at a minimum. While I was able to determine a lot about these headlights, forward voltage and current limits were not available. Searching the internet, I did determine that Mercedes low beam LED headlights like this use a combined total of 34 watts. Assuming this was measured at a nominal 13.5V, this would indicate that each low beam headlight is using around .800mA of current. This seems about right and servs as a starting point. Using a variable voltage, current limiting power supply, I was able to directly drive each headlight module, first determining the forward voltage, then experimenting with the current limit to see where an increase of current fails to yield a commensurate increase in LED brightness. I determined the thermistor resistance/temperature and read the LED module temperatures by measuring the resistance across the thermistor. This method allowed me to graph the performance of each LED cluster and estimate the maximum safe operating current. The temperature values were further confirmed by taking direct thermocouple readings off the DRL module. Note the turn signal does not have a thermistor, therefore it was likely designed to run at a set current. To prolong LED life, I chose to keep the measured temperature at the LED assemblies below 60 degrees C. This equates to an LED junction temperature of between 80-90 degrees C. For more details on the performance and testing of these headlights, I'll be posting another thread with the test data. Wiring the Headlights: As stated before, I wanted to avoid modifying the Mercedes harness. This meant all the changes needed to happen within the headlight. My goal was to minimize the changes to the headlight and avoid and warnings from the vehicle. The changes I made to the LED headlight assembly are not readily reversable. The controller modules were disassembled, likely destroying the electronics, but the heatsink was retained. No changes were made to the LED assemblies within the headlight housing. Headlight Plug Preparation: Rewiring the headlight starts with rewiring the headlight socket. This socket contains spots for 14 pins. The LED headlight socket uses 7 pins. The halogen plug from the car, while physically compatible, uses 6 to 10 pins. We will only use five of them as we have to drive the DRL's off the side marker circuit. The halogen DRL circuit operates at a lower voltage and current than the Static LED DRL, thus the Static LED DRL only dimly illuminates when run off the halogen DRL circuit. So we eliminate one of the pins. Only 1 of these pins are used in common between the two sockets, which means 4 pins need to be reconfigured within the Static LED headlight socket. This requires snapping the socket loose so it can be pulled out through the hole for the controller module.
To avoid headlight malfunction errors from occurring, the vehicle needs to be tricked into believing the halogen bulbs are still connected. This applies to the high beam, low beam and turn signal circuits. The DRL and side marker light circuits are not monitored. Unfortunately, this means simulating the loads of the halogen bulbs, thus requiring resistors. The resistors draw current by creating and dissipating heat. The removes the energy efficiency advantages of LEDs. It’s the only real trade-off required for this modification. To dissipate the heat as effectively as possible, I chose to repurpose the controller module's aluminum housing. I made the following modifications:
In this section we modify the 32 pin plug and 2 pin Controller Power plug for the controller module. De-pinning is only required for the below pins. To de-pin the 32 pin plug, with the locking mechanism removed, use a sharp object or a 3/64" flat head screw driver to press in on the side of the pin through the opening in the side of the plug. Do this while applying steady pressure to the wire. For the two pin plug, simply cut and strip the wires after labeling them. Wait to shrink the heat shrink until all the connections have been tested for continuity. De-Pining the 32 Pin Plug:
http://www.endoimage.com/Mercedes/P1080416.JPG I'm not going to cover all the steps for removing and replacing the headlights on the vehicle, but will cover the important points:
Old Ag |
i can appreciate the extensive write up and detail. good job! It takes some skill and understanding to do what you did. I will be creating a truly OEM retrofit thread and I went from Static LED to ILS on a c43 which already has all 4 level sensors. all oem parts and functionality. i think you will see from my thread to do the oem isnt that much more time or work. i guess if your goal is to be able to change back quickly that is good. but for those of us who own the car, this really is not an optimal solution. also since i have the level sensors already this saves a good amount of money and work. but nice job.
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I am holding out for a simple H7 bulb replacement.
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Wanted to bring this thread back up, plan to do this in the near future as I have started to piece together oem headlights. Can’t really find anyone to do coding and didn’t know the exact wiring harness or process to getting them in. This seems to be pretty straight forward as there is plenty of information and step by step, just a lot of wires after it’s said and done
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Originally Posted by Tyler Hall
(Post 8168749)
Wanted to bring this thread back up, plan to do this in the near future as I have started to piece together oem headlights. Can’t really find anyone to do coding and didn’t know the exact wiring harness or process to getting them in. This seems to be pretty straight forward as there is plenty of information and step by step, just a lot of wires after it’s said and done
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Hi, first of all, thank you for the detailed post on swapping halogens with LEDs. I have a question regarding DRLs. The way you wired it, they only work if the low beam and/or high beam is also on?
Meaning, if you turned the knob on daylights, they wouldn't work? Thanks |
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