Pulley with or without ECU tune poll
 

Okay guys:

How many guys have a pulley on their cars with or without a ECU tune. I firgured that MNAY people here, including myself have been asking this question so lets find out. Mine is without a tune and loving it:D

See yeah:zoom:

I have an ASP pulley with a Speedtuning ECU tune. Im not to sure what the ECU is doing for me though. I have a plan to find out. Im getting a new stock ECU (hopefully) and am going to DYNO/ and drag to compare the two. With all my mods I gained 30 RWHP and 30 lb/ft torque.

MRAMG1 - Your question is a very good one :bow:, but without getting off topic, I think the question should be:

"Does your pulley require an ECU tune?"

Again, I'm not trying to hijack the thread, but it would be kinda irresponsible for noobs to check this thread out and think having a pulley only is fine. In many cases it may be just fine. However, we should put the proof into this thread also. Just my 0.02

So..for those of you with pulley's and no ECU tune, can you please comment as to what datalogging you have to conclude that the pulley is safe on its own?

Although I agree with you whole hardily, I have had SEVERAL respectable authorities from this site, HINT HINT please come forward guys, inform me that it is INDEED okay. But, just to be on the safe side, I would LOVE to see data logging on a NON tuned car showing the A/F ratio:naughty:

See yeah:zoom:

Thanks for doing this :) I have been wondering this myself

Same here I was told the 172mm and 178mm do not change the A/F enough to change the pulley.

There is one remember that has a Reentech for sale where he mention just doing the Rentech pulley with no ecu tune took him from 12/1 to like 11.5/1. Not positive on the numbers maybe he can comment and has a dyno sheet.

i have pulley & SI ECU...
each has its own gains... having both is obviously better than just one...
can't wait to live tune me since my car is now sucking more air :D

welll... its all on the size of pulley..

I used to have the evosport ODPS.. and without an ECU it ran really well.. but it was not as aggressive..

pulley and ECU should be together, BUT not at the prices we are paying. Therefore I would advise against it.

In my e55, I should get a tune for the over size pulley from ASP. But with a larger FMIC I'm able to deal with the high ITA's but not properly running full potential. I'm probably leaving another 15RWHP at the table.

The ECU for me would have to help with unlocking more power, not necessarily creating more power.

I wish we had a Split Second Turbo Tuner application or Proceded, Xede, where one can install and uninstall at will. I just dont feel comfortable with ECU flashes.

I would suggest larger pulley and FMIC before going the ECU route, speciall in the south western states.. where heat is an issue.

+1

Can someone post some dyno results of their C32 after installing just a pulley and no ecu tune? I think stock stock A/F is 12 to 1. I would be curious to see how much just the pulley changes the A/F ration with facts from a dyno report.

Thanks

So there are only 10 guys on this forum with pullies:nix:

Come on and step up, strap on a set and POST IT:X

see yeah:zoom:

im running a renntech pulley with no tune. havent had any problems with it. at the begining of the pull the afr is around 12.8-12.9 as i rolled into the throttle and it got richer thoughout the run ending at 11.7-11.8 @ 6100rpm. made peak tq at 4300rpm and peak hp at 5500rpm. i vote no tune with just a pulley. thats just my opinion on that. brett

you guys all running widebands for these afr readings? or you getting AFR readings off the dyno? if your on the dyno you might as well get your ECU tuned....

THANKS mustang281man:bow::bow:

Thats just the information that the DOCTOR:naughty: was looking for.

See yeah my friend:zoom:

mine was on the dyno. most places cant tune a mercedes ecm. the place that i go to said he could but he would have to wire in a "black box" in line with the computer that would just change the values that go to the computer and that it sends back. i just dont really want to hack up the factory. being a mb tech and seeing some audio systems people have install in the mb's and the **** that it has f'd up i dont want to mess with it.

hey no problem. i see you used to have a stang. i have a procharged fox drag car. gotta love fox bodies.

Brett thanks for doing this I told you it would be appreciated :)

I ran for almost a year without an ECU tune. Recently I have added a tune.

Yeah, I had a 91 with EVERYTHING. Whipple, brakes, custom suspension, moved K-member, etc, etc, heck the only thing that was stock were the front fenders and the doors. I raced it in the SCCA series, and then the world challange series. I did fairly well, unless the big boys came into town. Then I had my a__ handed to me. Not bad for a car that still had A/C and a 12 speaker 4 amp system int he trunck. PM for any details.

Oh yeah, stock it was a 14.3 with EVERY bolt on known to mankind
added the whipple 13.3, nothing else
removed the cats 12.8
Changed heads AFR 12.3

Again, not bad for a raod racer running 800 lb front springs.

See yeah:zoom:

PS: Thanks for everyone's posts:bow::bow:. So I figure we can ALL take it as safe to run without a tune, but you get a little more with one. For the $1500 bucks, I'll keep my computer stock for now. Case closed

fine...I voted.

i ran it without the tune for a couple months. the car felt sluggish into the high rpms. after the tune it worked as it suppose to be. i never made a stock dyno, but after the pulley and ecu I made 353 on dynapack on around 78 degree day. and I had the 55 y-splitter when i did it.

To tune or not to tune??

I had both done and with just the pully it was fine and dyno back then showed my A/F within safe range under 13s. Now I wanted the ECU to run at uptimum so it required a tune. My A/F was a little better and definitely felt the addon of power to the wheel...Alot of people have this notion that a pulley and ECU tune will hail us 50-100 rwhp but it don't and many get dissappointed when one input results...we at times forget we have a family sedan and think this car should be like a modded american car with tons of hp but at the end of day its a Benz with costly upgrades...Thanks to the LET's and Code3performance for making modds more affordable..:bow:

:word:

probably more like 60rwhp at most along with the intake mods.

Maybe 60 RWTQ but RWHP nowhere near as much unless you add headers and maybe maybe full intake....If we go by my initial stock dyno with dirty K&N filters then I gained 35-37 RWHP but 38-40 RWTQ with pully and ECU tune. This includes the Y splitter, Magnecor wires and Denso plugs...

I went from an 11.6 A/F ratio at WOT to a 12.5 A/F ratio at WOT with ECU tune. Does that sound OK? ( Newb ?) When we say a car is running rich does that mean rich with fuel or air. Thanks.

11.6 is richer than 12.5. the lower the number the richer the air fuel mixture is.

Keep in mind guys, that a little bit richer than 12.0 to 1, really doesn't mean A THING IN TOTAl power. B/M did ALOT of blower research back in the late 80"s, and found out that running a bit rich REALLY did NOT hurt HP. LEAN on the other hand crushed a BLOWN engine. To be exact, 11.0/1 vs 12.0/1 was ONLY a 2% difference in RWP. However, you could run 4 degrees MORE timing that was a 4% improvement in total RWHP. So the 11/1 engine actually made MORE HP on 93 octane gas then the 12/1 AFR.

Anyway, keep in mind rich is safe, lean is KABOOM!!!

See yeah:zoom:

PS: I ran my blown road racing stang around 11/1 just for this reason, okay, also because it did NOT have an intercooler.