Can a tired battery make the transmission wacky?
I know my battery is shakey. It was tested and found faulty TWO YEARS ago! So it's probably due for a replacement. I'm guessing (hoping) that the weak voltage screwed up the transmission computer and sent it into limp mode. Batteries are cheaper than transmissions.
I know my battery is shakey. It was tested and found faulty TWO YEARS ago! So it's probably due for a replacement. I'm guessing (hoping) that the weak voltage screwed up the transmission computer and sent it into limp mode. Batteries are cheaper than transmissions.
Trannys need the correct voltage to run otherwise they give problems as you just experienced. Sometimes it won't even go into gear.
I'm trying to remember if MB has any security quirks to consider when I swap out my battery. Will my radio lock up?
You think?
How did you get a DD to keep running for 2 years on a faulty battery? I would have expected several other electronic anomolies to have cropped up before now.
The radio should not lock but you will need to re-calibrate your windows and sunroof. I am not sure of the other problems when swapping the battery.

If your radio has a theft deterrent code inputted then just change it to something you know and after changing to new Battery just input new code and if you didn't input your own code then I guess its setup to OEM specs so it may be in your manual or just use a 12volt battery maybe 9 to hold memory of the system while you swap batteries...hope it helps
Last edited by Fifth Ring; Oct 27, 2008 at 04:12 PM.
I know my battery is shakey. It was tested and found faulty TWO YEARS ago! So it's probably due for a replacement. I'm guessing (hoping) that the weak voltage screwed up the transmission computer and sent it into limp mode. Batteries are cheaper than transmissions.
Yepper, sounds like battery to me, ML does it all the time when battery goes bad (due to lack of driving it). Could have been that dreaded 89 octane too??


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the sometimes not going into gear thing just sounds like a neutral saftey switch to me..
in my oponion it was probably just a burp in the ecu ( as i believe that the shift points are set there?) the high ideling is just becuase it was cold out. higher end cars usually have warmup sequences. if i were you. i would have the battery tested again just to make sure its faulty. however, a faulty battery does not sound like the issue to me
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How did you get a DD to keep running for 2 years on a faulty battery? I would have expected several other electronic anomolies to have cropped up before now.
The radio should not lock but you will need to re-calibrate your windows and sunroof. I am not sure of the other problems when swapping the battery.
the sometimes not going into gear thing just sounds like a neutral saftey switch to me..
in my oponion it was probably just a burp in the ecu ( as i believe that the shift points are set there?) the high ideling is just becuase it was cold out. higher end cars usually have warmup sequences. if i were you. i would have the battery tested again just to make sure its faulty. however, a faulty battery does not sound like the issue to me
I know my battery is shakey. It was tested and found faulty TWO YEARS ago! So it's probably due for a replacement. I'm guessing (hoping) that the weak voltage screwed up the transmission computer and sent it into limp mode. Batteries are cheaper than transmissions.
I was just afflicted with the infamous seat control battery drain problem, and experienced nearly the same problems you did.
On a slow crank my car will not shift out of 1st gear, and the Winter/Summer traction switch will not function. After the slow crank the car "lurches" when moving the shift selector into reverse, and even more so going into drive.
Stopping and restarting may or may not correct the problem.
No problems on a normal crank with the battery just off the trickle charger.
I will be fixing the seat control issue ASAP
MikeR
I was just afflicted with the infamous seat control battery drain problem, and experienced nearly the same problems you did.
On a slow crank my car will not shift out of 1st gear, and the Winter/Summer traction switch will not function. After the slow crank the car "lurches" when moving the shift selector into reverse, and even more so going into drive.
Stopping and restarting may or may not correct the problem.
No problems on a normal crank with the battery just off the trickle charger.
I will be fixing the seat control issue ASAP






