Best performance mod for the C32?
 

For the dollar what do you think is the best performance mod for the C32?

pulley. or tune. or both. and then heat exchanger. and then intake.

Performance where? Drag strip, auto cross? Just a dyno?

Drag Strip: Tune, Pulley, Intake , Quaife, DRs (Nittos), HE

Auto Cross: HE & Johnson, Tune, Pulley, Intake, brakes

For Auto Cross, I would have to include a Quaife LSD. Otherwise, I agree.

+1, BUT the large majority of US, save for two that I know on the forums, do NOT autocross or track them. They simply do the QTR!!!

I still have to get the Quaife in the "box" installed!!

For just more fun, install a Sprintbooster.


No real performance gains but makes it even more fun to drive. :y

Pulley > tune > HE

I would just add that if you go with a 181mm or 185mm Pulley then for engine safety you should get all three together.

For simplicity sake, try to find a Code 3 SC pulley (about $300-400) and get a tune. After that Johnson and HE.

A 55k motor swap, obv.

Original Quote:
For the dollar what do you think is the best performance mod for the C32?

He said "For the dollar??" 55 is good idea, BUT for the dollar!!!

I would say tune and heat exchanger, or 178/C3P pulley with heat exchanger. I think even stock the c32 would benefit a lot from just the heat exchanger. Especially in warmer climates.

To get good power for less money I think that the best route would be to get the Eurocharged 185 mm pulley and tune ($1000). Then get the eurocharged heat exchanger (~$450), and then get the johnson cm30 intercooler pump($145 shipped from ape.usa). After that, I would separate my cooling system via needswings ic isolation kit (~$60 shipped) and finally get the 185 mm pulley saver kit from needswings.com for around ($250). So, for around $1900, you would have yourself a true beast. Of course later comes intake(your choice:Eurocharged, custom one, Code3, or SL55). Finally, you would get plugs and wires. This is the EXACT pattern I am going to follow to mod my C32 and I already have the CM30 on my car, the NGK iridium spark plugs, and K&N's. Next move would be a Eurocharged heat exchanger, and then pulley and tune. Good luck.

This is the order I went...

Bosch Pump (Lightning) / NGK IX 2 Step / KV-85 Wires / 185MM Crank / EC Tune / Pulley Saver Kit / Custom Intake / Intercooler Isolation / TVT Lower Thermostat / Stock Intake with K&N's / 26x7x2 Heat Exchanger

I waited way too long to upgrade the heat exchanger. It's definitely a must with the 185MM. A lot more power available all the time with a good heat exchanger. The stuff listed above will get you a lot of power without spending too terribly much.

If you want to go a different cheaper route just get the 178 or Code 3 pulley doesn't require a tune. Good boost in power. Still recommend heat exchanger. Looking around $800 compared to over $2000 dollars.

i would do alot of diy mods, i have and its been great! the code three pulley is basically a machined down s/c pulley, my diy for that was to take it to take my stock s/c pulley to a machine shop and for (60$) i got it milled down to 69mm which imo worked like magic. for example: i can spin all the way through first and almost 2nd, thats without the tune or h/e, secondly you can do the i//c separation by simply cutting two hoses and plug them, or you could use valves (35$) as for the h/e you have a choice between the eurocharged one (449$) or the frozen boost which gt4awd bought and has good things to say about it (175$ shipped) and the the johnson pump (175$) and last the tune, i would personally go with the eurocharged tune (400$) this is not in order but definaly the way to go. i have the pulley and the I/C diy and i couldnt be happier. its all up to you but that is the best bang for your buck:y

I do respect people who successfully mod their car via diy. I was thinking the MOST power for the cheapest possible. For around two grand you will have a 350ish whp beast that hits 0-60 in mid-low 4's and 1/4 in the 12's. I really like how jturkel on this forum has modded his C32:y. I am the kind of guy that always goes for the most power possible without spending too much.

Hmmm.. anyone log any AFR data with the 178mm pulley? I was thinking of going this route as well, but I'm afraid that with the increase in boost and no tune, AFR's will lean out at higher RPM's. With the amount of heat these motors create, I don't think running leaner is a good idea.

thanks,

Bry

these cars run rich to begin with. i think you should be safe, then again im not really sure :nix:

Hmm.. Why would you assume it would run rich? Almost all factory tuned f/i cars I've monitored have run lean (12.5-13.0afrs) WOT stock. They do this to get the best performance whole having low emissions and good fuel economy. Hotter engine equates to better fuel mileage and emissions, something mercedes is obsessed with. The 3 valve per cyl design was based purely around emission control. Anyways, I would be worried on a motor that already runs so hot.

I respectfully disagree on this one. The Code 3 that I installed caused my car to run lean. After the "Jerry Tune" the A/F was back to normal. Definitely need a tune with any pulley, be it 178, 181, 185 or Code 3. Ask Jake (Loungin14) at Eurocharged for a "package" deal, he's got a LOT of experience with the C32. A LOT!!!

Pulley, wrong. Tune, wrong. Intake, wrong.

Yes to the following.

1) Neon lights. inside your car, under the hood, in the wheel wells, etc. The more neon, the better off you will be in life.

2) Stickers. relatively inexpensive, great hp gains, look awesome, and they are easy to install.

3) Scoops. On the hood, on the roof, in the fenders, etc. With all of the newfound hp from your sticker applications, you are going to need a lot of ventialtion for your engine.

4) Diamond plate floor mats. They look hella tight, are stain/wear resistant, reflect the sun into your eyes while you are driving, and can be pulled out of your car and placed into the oven to reheat any fast food you may have dropped onto them over the past few weeks.

5) Intake manifold reinforcements. I know this one guy that blew the welds on his intake manifold during a race. I am not entirely positive if this was due to a lot added to the car, or too many stickers on the hood. Whatever the case, a tube of JB weld can go a long way towards keeping your car running well.

6) Performance exhaust. The larger the muffler, the better off you will be. More space in the muffler equals more power in your engine. To figure out what size you need, take the displacement size of your engine and multiply times 4. e.g 1.0L engine times four equals 4 inches as the minimum diameter of muffler needed. Keep in mind that depending on the number of other performance mods you have, that number may need to be higher.

7) Lighted Shift Knob. Pretty obvious, but I will go over it anyways. Lighter weight equals less stress on the transmission, and quicker shift times. The lights let you see what gear you are in, and where to shift. This is especially helpful when power shifting, as to avoid shifting into the wrong gear.

8) HID's. The more exotic the color, the better. You should aim to get lights that are no lighter than a deep purple hue. The darker the better.

9) Graphics. Think of these as the big brother to performance parts stickers. They are quite large, and can take up the whole side of the vehicle, but they give a huge increase in horsepower.

10) NOS. It is vital that you use NOS, and not an off brand. This is the one area you can not afford to go cheap. NOS will transform your car into a fire breathing monster at the touch of a button. It creates boost in the engine, and makes you have a sense of tunnel vision, and the effect of driving with a rocket engine on the back of your car. It may also send blue flames shooting from your exhaust, so you probably do not want to engage the NOS system if someone is tailgating you.

my a/f ratio was 13.1 stock, i have a custom pulley i wonder what im in now :nix:

I have a Code 3 pulley and my car still runs on the rich side. Well, on the dyno runs I've done. My afr never gets out of the 11's, taken at the tailpipe.

Les

I am also running the Code 3 intake and LET intake tubes and was lean until Jerry Tuned it. Don't know how accurate it is at the tailpipe??