Does a loud supercharger pulley have to be replaced?
03-22-2011, 11:01 PM
#26
Super Member
So, the surgery was completed today and overall it's good news.
The supercharger pulley bearing was indeed shot. You can see the wear/burn marks in the last picture below. It was replaced with the NSK bearing purchased via ebay and the link above.
This substantially reduced the noise, but there were other issues. The grooved idler pulley was also making alot of noise so, as that is a cheap part readily available from the dealer, the mechanic also changed that. The smooth idler pulley was dry so the grease was repacked. Then, in the course of all of the testing, the check engine light went on, the car went into limp mode and a faulty accelerator pedal was replaced! Never a dull moment.
So, as the before and after videos show, the car does sound better. More importantly, now my mechanic feels that remaining noise is just annoying - not something that's going to cause bits to start spraying around the engine. He feels the remaining noise is attributable to the supercharger clutch flex plate.
Thank you all for your helpful advice in getting right to the bad bearing diagnosis. Saved me lots of time, hassle and money. Dinner and drinks on me next time you are in the Bay Area (ok, ok, feel free to insert your favorite SF-bashing joke here)!
Before:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcRBCYfIw9E
After:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPEHIo-AR8o
The supercharger pulley bearing was indeed shot. You can see the wear/burn marks in the last picture below. It was replaced with the NSK bearing purchased via ebay and the link above.
This substantially reduced the noise, but there were other issues. The grooved idler pulley was also making alot of noise so, as that is a cheap part readily available from the dealer, the mechanic also changed that. The smooth idler pulley was dry so the grease was repacked. Then, in the course of all of the testing, the check engine light went on, the car went into limp mode and a faulty accelerator pedal was replaced! Never a dull moment.
So, as the before and after videos show, the car does sound better. More importantly, now my mechanic feels that remaining noise is just annoying - not something that's going to cause bits to start spraying around the engine. He feels the remaining noise is attributable to the supercharger clutch flex plate.
Thank you all for your helpful advice in getting right to the bad bearing diagnosis. Saved me lots of time, hassle and money. Dinner and drinks on me next time you are in the Bay Area (ok, ok, feel free to insert your favorite SF-bashing joke here)!
Before:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcRBCYfIw9E
After:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPEHIo-AR8o
Slightly OT - it still sounds like you have a bit of a knocking sound. Is that just reverb from the garage? Mine has the same sort of tune to it, on top of the screeching.
03-22-2011, 11:57 PM
#28
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'03 C32
06-01-2011, 09:25 AM
#29
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range rover looking for a new w206
Ive just replaced the bearing on my supercharger , I did not know that a bearing could make so much noise and still work , I did it using the oven and frezer trick and every thing went ok and now I am wishing i had done this a long time ago
06-13-2011, 08:35 AM
#31
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range rover looking for a new w206
take off the pulley undo the circlip, knock the bearing through the pully ( from the back !!) then place the pulley in an oven at 250deg C for 30-40 mins and at the same time place the bearing in the deep frezze . after 30- 40 mins remove the pulley and place on a piece of wood take the bearing from the frezzer and drop it in ti should just drop in,and let cool a light tap some times helps if the bearing just sticks at the end because the bearing is warming up ...
09-03-2011, 01:42 AM
#32
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2002 C32 AMG
Well first thing, I am new here. I just aquired a 2002 C32 from a used car lot here in Denver. 101,000 mi, and all the service records from 500 mi to 97,000 mi. 10 scheduled oil changes, 2 coolant flushes, 1 factory O.E.M. I/C pump R/R @ 70k, 1 transmission service @ 70k, and 1 power steering system flush at 70K. All performed by Mercedes of Littleton, CO. Mint front to back. Paid 11k, good deal?
The only issue I have is the bearing in the charger pulley is going, and I must say this site is most useful to help from spending $1400 on parts from the dealer. LoL.
What I have found in my research with, your forum, NSK Americas, Mercedes, and Local NSK Distributors. The bearing stated earlier in the thread NSK 32db45dum, in fact has a different NSK #. The # you have listed is the # Mercedes has stamped on the bearing for there manufacturing and parts support identification. If you call NSK Americas # 1-888-446-5675, and get to an operator. You can give them your state and closest major city, and they will give you a local distributor. When I called the local NSK distributor and gave them the # they had to call NSK because the # wasn't in there database. The number that NSK superseeded to was this NSK-32BD45A1T12DDUCG21. BEST OF ALL it only cost me $27 delivered and its even the right junk.
Wanted to share this to save everyone a few bucks.
09-15-2012, 05:20 PM
#33
Looking for tips on things to try to get the pulley off the supercharger shaft - other than pound on it - there must be some pulley puller that's small enough fingers to fit between the pulley ridges?...
...help a brother out.
...help a brother out.
09-15-2012, 09:03 PM
#34
Running nice and quiet now.
09-15-2012, 09:49 PM
#35
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thats lucky, I had to use a hammer, I couldn't even get a screwdriver in the gap. If you can get a screwdriver in each side of the gap it probably wouldn't ruin the clutch surface unless it required heaps of force.
