jakel01

SOLVED- System needed a full flush several times to remove debris.
Hello all, first time poster, total noob here.
First off, car is '03 C32 AMG 113k miles. Mods are a Eurocharged pulley, and tune. Also has ball valves added to isolate the IC circuit from the rest of the coolant system.
When I first got the car a few months ago, driving on the highway would mean the SC would cycle on and off every couple minutes. Took it to the shop (Eurocharged), determined IC pump was bad. surprise surprise. Had it replaced, rest of the car got the all clear.
Now after getting the pump done, having better results, but still issues. I can easily get the IAT above 190 degrees simply by driving normally 30-40 MPH in 2nd or 3rd gear. Totally stumped. If i'm on the highway or some curvy roads keeping it in 3rd, I will quickly get temps above 190 resulting in SC cycling. Tomorrow I'm going to get some Water Wetter to see if that helps any. Any advice? ambient temps when driving have been 50 or less, coolant temps around 185 to 190.

latemodel21

check to make sure the pump is actually running ...
fuse ok?

also ...
was it bled properly? Your isolation may be interfering with the removal of air from the circuit

Fantomas

Sounds like the pump isn't running at all with IATs that high or water is unable to circulate. Start by removing the ball valves, toss them in the garbage, return the system back to stock configuration and bleed it properly. No need for water wetter. Your IATs should be 15-25 above cruising and at WOT you should see it climb slowly to 130-140 by about 120mph.

jakel01

So far this is the info I have got. First, hanging in 2nd or 3rd for awhile will heat soak the system easily, this has been reported by the mechanic at Eurocharged, and my own experience. I'm told it's a chief weakness off the c32, c55, e55 in stock form. It is solved by getting a reserve tank, and isolating the IC system from the coolant system. It is possible my intercooler has issues, maybe partially plugged. Looking to find a used aftermarket rad, but this winter will probably be relocating the battery into the trunk, and installing a reserve tank where it was.

As for the ball valves, i'm told they can lead to restriction, but ultimately, divorcing the system is the best bet, otherwise the IAT temps will be 10-20 degrees less than coolant temps. So far this is true.

As for the fuse/power to the pump. The fuse is good, #5 in the trunk, 7.5 amp. I need to setup some sort of meter or simply a light connected to the circuit to see if in fact the pump is working while driving.

System being bled properly, I would assume so since a highly regarded shop did the pump replacement.

Another possibility is the IAT temp sensor is bad, and exaggerating temps.

As of now, with outside temps in mid 60s, highway driving shows IAT temps in the 140-180 range, and going WOT will spike them into the low 200s before the SC shuts off. It won't happen on the first pull, but after the 2nd or 3rd pull.

Mark Lim

Check IAT at a cold start. It should be slightly above ambient.

jakel01

One clarification. I do run the car with the valves open. Since the top valve connects to the location where bleeding would occur, I figure it should be at this point, of course assuming the shop did the process properly.

Two, being uncertain about the specific wiring schematic, would the pump power show at the fuse, or is a relay placed after the fuse? I'm thinking I can run a probe to that fuse to see if/when the pump is running, unless a relay is between the fuse and pump. I could find this out myself with some tinkering, but perhaps if someone already knows, it would save me some time from having to fuss around.

Appreciate all the help!

Morphh

I bet u have AIR in the system, open the valves up for a couple of days then close valve first thing in morning so it sits for long time and completely cools down.

Fantomas

While the stock inter-cooling is nothing to write home about the car doesn't immediately overheat when you press the gas or hang it in 2nd at high revs, IATs should only rise when you are in boost. You should be able to get about 10 seconds at full throttle before any timing is pulled and even when wide open for extended period of time, like a top speed run, the supercharger should never shut down. There is something wrong with your car, maybe air in the system maybe those valves are closed when you think they are open. Maybe your IC coolant routing is incorrect and you are drawing engine coolant into the intercooler.

jakel01

Update on this. The car has this divorce system installed on it. My recent issues with IAT temps in the 200F range cruising 20+ mins at highways speeds (70-80MPH cruise at 55-65F ambient) was because the valves were open, allowing fully warmed engine coolant to saturate the SC system. Because of the smaller pulley and tune, it is just enough extra work the SC is putting in making heat that the stock system can't clear. Plans at this point to further remedy the issue is to install a reservoir of some size in the system to allow for more build-up of heat before losing S/C, and eventually going to a larger I/C radiator in combo with a 3-4 gallon reservoir tank.

Morphh

doesn’t matter if it takes from engine coolant ur temps are way to high check IC pump is working even if it is brand new

Morphh

All of us have smaller pullies and some pple have stacked pullies ur IC pump must not be working, doesn’t matter if ur valves are open temps should be around 20-35 degrees above ambient on highway, check IC pump fuse back of trunk number 5 fuse it’s 7.5amps I think.

jakel01

I'll double check the fuse and pump operation again. Also on the list is a good exchanger washing. After closing the valves my temps on the highway are fine, but once I get in stop and go traffic, the lack of air flow over the exchanger lets the temps crank way up usually resulting in loss of SC.

Morphh

Air bubbles or pump not working. My opinion hope u find out what’s happening

jakel01

Further update.
Did some testing tonight, found everything to seem to be operational.
Fuse is good, relay is working.
I made a jumper to make the pump run, pulled off the bleed hose, pinched off a couple hoses to force coolant thru the hose,and confirmed the pump is actually moving coolant, (and I think that same method is how the system gets bled?).
I jumpered a wire into the relay socket with a test light, the pump is running when the car goes into gear and the S/C gets engaged.
I will be road testing tomorrow with my test light to make sure the pump runs all the time while driving.
I inspected the heat exchanger, it's pretty clean for being 16 years old. Can see through all the fins just fine, no blockages.

Now have another issue popping up... When the S/C turns off from high temps, eventually I will get a message on the dash that says ESP malfunction. (Time to search for that issue here)

Morphh

It could also be IAT sensor that has failed? Don't be frustrated these cars do have some annoying stuff but once u get everything sorted it will treat and put smi!e on your face.I

jakel01

Finally figured out the problem. I suspected that even though everything was working, I still wasn't getting good flow at all times.
I took the entire system apart, and using distilled water and compressed air, flushed all the components. I found lots of sparkly bits in the initial flush, which ended up leading to removing the exchanger and flushing it several times until only clear water came out. I also hosed out the fins and soaked them in CLR twice to help loosen up corrosion.
After getting the system back together, it performs exactly as you all said it should. Cruising IAT temps are 25-30 above ambient, and 110-130 when on the throttle for awhile, quickly returning to below 100 after letting off. Also since temps are lower, the computer doesn't dial back timing so it pulls much harder than ever.

Morphh

Good to here u got it sorted out, u have stock heat exchanger? Enjoy

jakel01

Stock exchanger for now.

560 SEC

Which relay runs the pump?

Morphh

Jake what is ambient temps ?

jakel01

Further followup. Car has been running great since I did the system flush and new IC pump. Charge temps typically about 30-40F above ambient. Intake system was clean, as was the throttle body. Plugs are good, just plain copper ones. Did have some issues with the SC pulley being gapped wrong, but that was solved with removing a small shim. Recently fixed the blend door arms, which wasn't that bad of a job after finding a wonderful procedure on here. Next up is valve cover gaskets, trans fluid change, and rear end diff fluid change.

Only complaint with the car is an extremely touchy throttle (feels about 70% of power at 1/3 - 1/4 gas pedal), and terrible rough idle.

Glad to see these forums still going.