Replacing brake pads
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 85
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles CA
M5, Model S, E350, M3, M635CSi...
Replacing brake pads
Hi guys,
So I'm picking up a set of factory pads for the C32 and I have the instructions from the MB manual which seem pretty straight forward. It does mention two special tools: a "resetting device" and "plastic wedges". It says "on the front axel 4- piston fixed brake caliper in each case secure the opposing pair of pistons with plastic wedges to prevent them from sliding out. Press back the other pair of pistons with the resetting device." Do I really need these special tools or can I just use C-clamps and some thin pieces of wood?
Also the dealer is trying to tell me I can't do it myself because you have to have a special tool to disable something on the ABS system in order to replace the pads or the system will push the pistons out while you are changing the pad. I'm suspect. Is this for real or are they just trying to scare us into dealer service?
Juan Bruce
VP BMW CCA GGC
'95 M3
'85 M635CSi
'02 C32 (girl friends car)
So I'm picking up a set of factory pads for the C32 and I have the instructions from the MB manual which seem pretty straight forward. It does mention two special tools: a "resetting device" and "plastic wedges". It says "on the front axel 4- piston fixed brake caliper in each case secure the opposing pair of pistons with plastic wedges to prevent them from sliding out. Press back the other pair of pistons with the resetting device." Do I really need these special tools or can I just use C-clamps and some thin pieces of wood?
Also the dealer is trying to tell me I can't do it myself because you have to have a special tool to disable something on the ABS system in order to replace the pads or the system will push the pistons out while you are changing the pad. I'm suspect. Is this for real or are they just trying to scare us into dealer service?
Juan Bruce
VP BMW CCA GGC
'95 M3
'85 M635CSi
'02 C32 (girl friends car)
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 371
Likes: 0
From: Boston/Hartford
JBruce,
It really isn't that hard at all. I do it myself all the time. I talked to the chief tech where i get it serviced and he said my steps are fine. I wrote the following directions for myself a while back.
Changing Brake Pads for C32
Wheel Torque:
82 lbs dry - not below 80 - not above 85
Change Brake Pads
Tools
• Small hammer, medium flat blade screwdriver
• Plastic Wedges
• Flat tipped metal center-punch (i.e. countersink for finishing nails)
Steps to remove front AMG pad
1. Jack car at front
2. Remove wheel
3. On passenger’s side, disconnect and then remove pad-wear sensor. There is no sensor on driver's side.
4. Insert center punch in small hole at outboard side of caliper facing you, lightly tap the retainer pin "back" through and remove it.
5. Repeat for the second retainer pin.
6. Remove the metal covering
7. Using screwdriver create a small gap between pads and rotors. Then place plastic wedge (preferably two) and create space so that the pistons are compressed. Try to create extra space so that the new pads can go in fairly easily.
8. Remove old pads through the slot created by the removal of the pins. It is easier if you do the front first and put the new pads in and then do the back.
Installation of new pads
1. Insert pads in slot.
2. Insert the brake wear sensor and connect it. (not necessary as I usually just tie the brake pad sensor off to the brake line with a ziptie)
3. Put metal case back on.
4. Insert pins and tap them fully back into position (should hold metal housing in place).
5. Reinstall wheel.
Repeat for other side of car.
Hope that helps and if anbody does it differently please let me know I am always make it better.
Prasith
It really isn't that hard at all. I do it myself all the time. I talked to the chief tech where i get it serviced and he said my steps are fine. I wrote the following directions for myself a while back.
Changing Brake Pads for C32
Wheel Torque:
82 lbs dry - not below 80 - not above 85
Change Brake Pads
Tools
• Small hammer, medium flat blade screwdriver
• Plastic Wedges
• Flat tipped metal center-punch (i.e. countersink for finishing nails)
Steps to remove front AMG pad
1. Jack car at front
2. Remove wheel
3. On passenger’s side, disconnect and then remove pad-wear sensor. There is no sensor on driver's side.
4. Insert center punch in small hole at outboard side of caliper facing you, lightly tap the retainer pin "back" through and remove it.
5. Repeat for the second retainer pin.
6. Remove the metal covering
7. Using screwdriver create a small gap between pads and rotors. Then place plastic wedge (preferably two) and create space so that the pistons are compressed. Try to create extra space so that the new pads can go in fairly easily.
8. Remove old pads through the slot created by the removal of the pins. It is easier if you do the front first and put the new pads in and then do the back.
Installation of new pads
1. Insert pads in slot.
2. Insert the brake wear sensor and connect it. (not necessary as I usually just tie the brake pad sensor off to the brake line with a ziptie)
3. Put metal case back on.
4. Insert pins and tap them fully back into position (should hold metal housing in place).
5. Reinstall wheel.
Repeat for other side of car.
Hope that helps and if anbody does it differently please let me know I am always make it better.
Prasith
Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
'07 E63; 05 C55 gone; '02 C32 gone;1996 SL320;1978 280CE Gone
I do the same thing except have not seen plastic wedges. What shape are they, and do they remain in when the pad is removed, to assist pushing the piston back. The problem that usually occurs is that the pistons will not stay back long enough to get the new pad in. If these wedges solve that problem I would like to get them. Otherwise it is an easy task.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 371
Likes: 0
From: Boston/Hartford
yes I forgot to add that.
I always unscrew the brake fluid reservoir. This makes the piston much easier to push back and also ensures less spillage.
With the plastic wedges I use them to wedge in between the pad and rotor. This is actually one of those wedges you can find in Home Depot etc. They are used to prevent tables that are uneven from rocking.
If you do one pad at a time there is no problem with the pistons compressing again. Basically use the old pad for leverage to evenly push the piston back. Then when there is enough room take the pad out and put the new pad in. Then repeat the process for the other pad. This way the other piston compress the new pad when you push this pad in.
One last thing I forgot to add. After changing make sure you pump your brakes several times so the pistons compress again.
I will be doing this soon when I get my R4's
.
I always unscrew the brake fluid reservoir. This makes the piston much easier to push back and also ensures less spillage.
With the plastic wedges I use them to wedge in between the pad and rotor. This is actually one of those wedges you can find in Home Depot etc. They are used to prevent tables that are uneven from rocking.
If you do one pad at a time there is no problem with the pistons compressing again. Basically use the old pad for leverage to evenly push the piston back. Then when there is enough room take the pad out and put the new pad in. Then repeat the process for the other pad. This way the other piston compress the new pad when you push this pad in.
One last thing I forgot to add. After changing make sure you pump your brakes several times so the pistons compress again.
I will be doing this soon when I get my R4's
.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,705
Likes: 2
From: nj
a car that can't do the throttle reset.
Hey guys, didn't want to make a new thread for my brake noob question. Was hoping that you could take a peak at this pic of the rear brake pad and tell me if this looks new. Basically, its either new or really really old and used. Just wanted to make sure.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Phoenix AZ & Cayucos CA
’27 AMG SL55(ordered), ‘23 EQS 580 SUV, ‘19 AMG E53 Cpe, ‘48 Willys Jeepster
The usual rule of thumb is to replace brake pads when the friction surface reaches the thickness of the steel backing plate.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 2
From: Ashburn, VA
2004 C32, 2006 Honda CBR1000RR, 2007 Harley NightRod, 2013 Harley Road Glide Custom
Thanks Prasith32 and others.....
I just replaced the front and the instructions were excellent. I have to admit it was an easy job and not much different than replacing the brakes in my kid's Saturn. Now I will do the rears but not today. I am going for a bike ride. It's 67 out and sunny! What a perfect day.
Bob
Bob
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 2
From: Ashburn, VA
2004 C32, 2006 Honda CBR1000RR, 2007 Harley NightRod, 2013 Harley Road Glide Custom
JBruce,
It really isn't that hard at all. I do it myself all the time. I talked to the chief tech where i get it serviced and he said my steps are fine. I wrote the following directions for myself a while back.
Changing Brake Pads for C32
Wheel Torque:
82 lbs dry - not below 80 - not above 85
Change Brake Pads
Tools
• Small hammer, medium flat blade screwdriver
• Plastic Wedges
• Flat tipped metal center-punch (i.e. countersink for finishing nails)
Steps to remove front AMG pad
1. Jack car at front
2. Remove wheel
3. On passenger’s side, disconnect and then remove pad-wear sensor. There is no sensor on driver's side.
4. Insert center punch in small hole at outboard side of caliper facing you, lightly tap the retainer pin "back" through and remove it.
5. Repeat for the second retainer pin.
6. Remove the metal covering
7. Using screwdriver create a small gap between pads and rotors. Then place plastic wedge (preferably two) and create space so that the pistons are compressed. Try to create extra space so that the new pads can go in fairly easily.
8. Remove old pads through the slot created by the removal of the pins. It is easier if you do the front first and put the new pads in and then do the back.
Installation of new pads
1. Insert pads in slot.
2. Insert the brake wear sensor and connect it. (not necessary as I usually just tie the brake pad sensor off to the brake line with a ziptie)
3. Put metal case back on.
4. Insert pins and tap them fully back into position (should hold metal housing in place).
5. Reinstall wheel.
Repeat for other side of car.
Hope that helps and if anbody does it differently please let me know I am always make it better.
Prasith
It really isn't that hard at all. I do it myself all the time. I talked to the chief tech where i get it serviced and he said my steps are fine. I wrote the following directions for myself a while back.
Changing Brake Pads for C32
Wheel Torque:
82 lbs dry - not below 80 - not above 85
Change Brake Pads
Tools
• Small hammer, medium flat blade screwdriver
• Plastic Wedges
• Flat tipped metal center-punch (i.e. countersink for finishing nails)
Steps to remove front AMG pad
1. Jack car at front
2. Remove wheel
3. On passenger’s side, disconnect and then remove pad-wear sensor. There is no sensor on driver's side.
4. Insert center punch in small hole at outboard side of caliper facing you, lightly tap the retainer pin "back" through and remove it.
5. Repeat for the second retainer pin.
6. Remove the metal covering
7. Using screwdriver create a small gap between pads and rotors. Then place plastic wedge (preferably two) and create space so that the pistons are compressed. Try to create extra space so that the new pads can go in fairly easily.
8. Remove old pads through the slot created by the removal of the pins. It is easier if you do the front first and put the new pads in and then do the back.
Installation of new pads
1. Insert pads in slot.
2. Insert the brake wear sensor and connect it. (not necessary as I usually just tie the brake pad sensor off to the brake line with a ziptie)
3. Put metal case back on.
4. Insert pins and tap them fully back into position (should hold metal housing in place).
5. Reinstall wheel.
Repeat for other side of car.
Hope that helps and if anbody does it differently please let me know I am always make it better.
Prasith
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 734
Likes: 27
2021 Yukon XL Denali, 2017 GLS450 4MATIC, 1993 Chevy Corvette
Did my rear pads this weekend. Be gentle with that brake pad sensor (my C55 only has a sensor on the Rear Right brake caliper). In pulling mine off I tore the cabling on the sensor, and the new sensors that came with my Akebonos didn't fit. Bought a new sensor for $10 shipped on eBay but nevertheless save yourself the hassle and go nice and slow until you can unplug the sensor. The only error message I receive is on the information display screen on start-up "Brake Wear Visit Workshop".
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 2
From: Ashburn, VA
2004 C32, 2006 Honda CBR1000RR, 2007 Harley NightRod, 2013 Harley Road Glide Custom
Did my rear pads this weekend. Be gentle with that brake pad sensor (my C55 only has a sensor on the Rear Right brake caliper). In pulling mine off I tore the cabling on the sensor, and the new sensors that came with my Akebonos didn't fit. Bought a new sensor for $10 shipped on eBay but nevertheless save yourself the hassle and go nice and slow until you can unplug the sensor. The only error message I receive is on the information display screen on start-up "Brake Wear Visit Workshop".
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 704
Likes: 2
From: New mexico
2005 E55 AMG
Did my rear pads this weekend. Be gentle with that brake pad sensor (my C55 only has a sensor on the Rear Right brake caliper). In pulling mine off I tore the cabling on the sensor, and the new sensors that came with my Akebonos didn't fit. Bought a new sensor for $10 shipped on eBay but nevertheless save yourself the hassle and go nice and slow until you can unplug the sensor. The only error message I receive is on the information display screen on start-up "Brake Wear Visit Workshop".
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 734
Likes: 27
2021 Yukon XL Denali, 2017 GLS450 4MATIC, 1993 Chevy Corvette
How can we take this off of the display screen? I've done mine twice and was told that this would come off by itself but no dice. Is it only with the STAR that this comes off? By the way I got my sensors from Pep Boys for only $3 each and they are the same quality and you don't have to wait for them to come in.
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
From: Seneca, SC
2006 C55
I'm about to do the front brakes on my C55 as well and I appreciate the thread! A few questions to add:
1) Is the C55 much the same as the C32 instructions above?
2) If I want to have the rotors turned, what is the process of getting them off?
3) I'm also curious about the reset on the dash cluster that warns that I need to see a shop due to break wear.
Just for information sake I called the local dealer to get a price on doing the brakes on the front...$225 parts and labor on just a pad swap-out, add $450 if it needs new rotors (I'm guessing they don't turn rotors).
1) Is the C55 much the same as the C32 instructions above?
2) If I want to have the rotors turned, what is the process of getting them off?
3) I'm also curious about the reset on the dash cluster that warns that I need to see a shop due to break wear.
Just for information sake I called the local dealer to get a price on doing the brakes on the front...$225 parts and labor on just a pad swap-out, add $450 if it needs new rotors (I'm guessing they don't turn rotors).
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 876
Likes: 81
From: Phoenix AZ & Cayucos CA
’27 AMG SL55(ordered), ‘23 EQS 580 SUV, ‘19 AMG E53 Cpe, ‘48 Willys Jeepster
#1 There shouldn't be any significant differences between a C32 and C55 brakes, but I don't know that for a fact.
#2 As I know cross-drilled rotors cannot be turned. The rears should be OK to machine.
#3 The brake wear sensors are basically just a wire that gets cut when the pads reach their replacement point. With a new sensor, or a paper clip for that matter, the circuit is complete the message goes away.
#2 As I know cross-drilled rotors cannot be turned. The rears should be OK to machine.
#3 The brake wear sensors are basically just a wire that gets cut when the pads reach their replacement point. With a new sensor, or a paper clip for that matter, the circuit is complete the message goes away.
