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so my car was taking 5 or 6 turns to start. i replaced the cps with a used one i had and it made an improvement. the car would start right up cold, but would take 2 or 3 tries when warm.
so the new CPS got here a few days ago and i installed it....
the CPS was very hard to fit into the engine, it took a lot of power from me to push it all the way in where my old cps slid right out and the replacement i used also slid right out.
anyway, on to the new cps... the car will always start up the first time cold but it will take 2 tries when the car is warm. do you guys think the cps is defective or something else?
i can tell you the cps came in a sealed bag with a bosche label, but the label looks old, maybe faded over time or the printer running out of ink when they printed up the label
Anti sieze lubricant between starter gear and flywheel
thats what i had originally thought when i started this thread. i never got around to getting any but do you know if the symptoms of a bad cps and dry starter gear are the same.
we had a very hot day here today and it took 5 or 6 attempts to start after i ran her over to the store and shut off engine.
so after reading around a lot. i found out that there is a service window close to the bell housing where you can just access some teeth on the flywheel. and i read that you can just shot some silicone spray in there while the car is running AND that it takes less than a minute. so thats what i did, but i didnt have a flash light when i was under the car and i couldnt see very well but i found the opening i believe however it was missing the square silicone service plug that was described where i read it. i'd say its actually rectangular not square but anyway after spraying, the car is starting up better, not perfect.
i used a compressed bottle of motorcycle chain lube that i had but i dint think i did a really great job, someone said i should have used compressed degreaser while the car was running and then after it was clean, hit it with the lube, then pop on the silicone service boot to keep water and gunk out of there.
anyway, this is a job that i will be re-visiting. also i think it might merit a change of the spark plugs and boots to make sure my ignition system is is good working order, just keep everything sharp.
so i am looking for a part number on that silicone service boot. does anyone know if this is it?
I'm surprised it isn't the CPS. Maybe your "new" one is bad.
Do you get clicking when you attempt to start?
I agree that the new CPS is bad. It starts right up every time when the car is cold. If I drive the car for 90 minutes and shut off, it will not start. I have to give it 10 or more tries.
No clicking when it starts, it will make a cranking noise, sometimes no noise at all. Sometimes it will almost start but die before it starts.
I'm going to pull the CPS tomorrow and make sure it isn't dirty. If not dirty then I'm going to request an exchange.
If you hear a click during a startup fail what does that mean?
I would make sure the battery is fully charged to begin with. Secondly, the starter could be on the way out. Thirdly, the starter could be stuck on the flywheel cog gear
I agree that the new CPS is bad. It starts right up every time when the car is cold. If I drive the car for 90 minutes and shut off, it will not start. I have to give it 10 or more tries.
No clicking when it starts, it will make a cranking noise, sometimes no noise at all. Sometimes it will almost start but die before it starts.
I'm going to pull the CPS tomorrow and make sure it isn't dirty. If not dirty then I'm going to request an exchange.
I personally would recommend cleaning the MAF w/ some CRC or throwing on a replacement if you have an extra on hand. My C36 and past 210 E55's have required a replacement at some point in time. Generally around this time of year is when you will start to notice issues. In the Northeast we get a lot of pollen during the Spring and Summer months (especially this year), I feel this is a large contributor to the MAF acting up:
"Here are some of the most common symptoms of a faulty mass airflow sensor"
figure it out yet? mine started acting weird like 4 years ago and I've just dealt with it.
most of the time I turn the key and hear nothing. sometimes I hear the starter barely move, sometimes it starts right up and then dies immediately. sometimes it starts up and behaves normally. it NEVER dies later while I'm driving.
I thought it was CPS, replaced it back in 2012 and the problem didn't go away. It wasn't a big deal because within 10-15 turns of the key it would always start so I just dealt with it, so that's what I did.
but now it's gotten much much worse. cold or hot, I can pretty regularly have to spend 10-12 minutes turning the key until the car finally starts. I'm suspicious it's the grease on the starter/flywheel since changing the CPS didn't affect the problem years ago? anyone know how to narrow it down? it's starting to make me late for work...
Not solved. My issue is ONLY when cold. After it heats up, it will take 10 or more tries to start but starts right up cold. I am going to send my cps back because I also have some oil and brake fluid to exchange. Probably this week. As far as greasing the flywheel, I'd change the CPS if it were 4 years old already. But to grease, just put it up on a ramp while running and you should be able to spray some lube in while running. Maybe use a degreaser or brake cleaner before the lube. Also check to see if that silicone rubber boot is missing, that will allow water and gunk to get in there if it's missing.
ordered permatex aerosol anti seize spray, gonna get the car on the lift this weekend and spray into that little peeky hole thing and see if that fix it.
I believe your issue has something to do with low fuel pressure. I would start by checking the relays for fuel pump and OVP, if these are good then move on to the fuel pump.
Had the chance to get back under her today. I sprayed the same stuff I used last time, it's a motorcycle chain lube. I'll post a picture soon. But it looks like issue solved for now.
The difference between this application and last is that this time I brought a flashlight and was able to see where I was spraying. There are two holes, the larger hole towards the front seems like a better place to spray. Also I focused on the outer portion of the flywheel. Last time I had no light and I was blindly spraying. And I saw this time that I probably sprayed little if anything at all on the actual teeth which would be on the outer portion of that makes sense. The car has started after every try no issues. I am a bit concerned that the chain lube might not be the best product to use but we will see.
Sprayed a ton of permatex anti-seize lubricant into the window and all over the outer edges of the flywheel with the engine running, did not fix the issue. Still spent 15 minutes getting the car to start this morning. I'm ready to give up
where is this lube insertion positioned on fly-wheel?
up or down position - west or east side position - north or south side position?
LOL. sorry i did not take a picture. it is where the bell housing meets the transmission. there are 2 holes where you can see the flywheel spinning when the car is running. just shoot the slippery gunk towards the outer portion of the flywheel which you really cant see but know its there. i guess it would be south if you were looking straight on.
09-08-2017, 10:09 PM
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