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Did you have any trouble getting the two amps to start playing audio at the same time? How did you solve it?
When I start the vehicle if the audio is selected to radio or satellite I get about 2 seconds of audio not amped through my center channel since it is the channel I did not run to the DSP. I chose to not hook up this channel since I don’t have enough inputs on the DSP and figured this one would be least impacted. My subwoofer amp is using a 12v switched turnon lead from the Helix DSP so they both go active at the same time (JL Audio amp turn on response is near instant). I listed to mostly Bluetooth audio so I don’t normally notice the delay. Not a huge deal to me.
When I start the vehicle if the audio is selected to radio or satellite I get about 2 seconds of audio not amped through my center channel since it is the channel I did not run to the DSP. I chose to not hook up this channel since I don’t have enough inputs on the DSP and figured this one would be least impacted. My subwoofer amp is using a 12v switched turnon lead from the Helix DSP so they both go active at the same time (JL Audio amp turn on response is near instant). I listed to mostly Bluetooth audio so I don’t normally notice the delay. Not a huge deal to me.
I may have figured out my dual amp delay/sync issue. I decided to try a subwoofer only install for now and just adding a sub woofer improved the sound quite a bit.
Plus, the W205 seems to be sound proofed enough that the bass isn't loud outside the car. I love it!
Anyway, to add only a sub-woofer I got a Audiocontrol LC2i line output controller with GTO (signal sensing?) turn on (instead of remote turn on).
The LC2i power light allowed me to monitor when the factory AMP is actually turning on and off. So it looks the Burmester AMP turns on when you open any door, shuts off when you lock the doors and has a timeout if you open the door and don't use the radio at all. (not at ignition)
In theory all I need to do is use signal sensing (or dc offset) instead of remote in (ACC) on my Fix 82 and remote out to my Audison AP8.9 AMP. This should make the Audison play the same time as the Burmester AMP.
I also believe the W205 has RAP (Retained Accessory Power) so connecting the FiX 82 12 volt switched input to ACC should maintain RAP functionality.
Standing up with the speakers facing the rear. I’m still trying to find a good way to keep them standing up. If you look in the trunk behind the rear seats the floor is angled making it difficult to stand anything up flush against the back of the seats without falling down. I ordered those blocks from Amazon in the link above and received them today. They stickiness to the carpet is not strong enough. Back to the drawing board...
I found a better solution to hold things in place in the trunk. They both use velco (hooks) and grip the W205 carpet very well.
1. Make your own using any random plastic corner pieces.
My old microwave came with some plastic corner supports inside the box. I bought adhesive hook and loop velcro from amazon and made my own.
2017 AMG C43, AWE Touring, BMC Air Filters- 2015 BMW X3 3.5i (JB1 Equipped)
Originally Posted by benzdude
I found a better solution to hold things in place in the trunk. They both use velco (hooks) and grip the W205 carpet very well.
1. Make your own using any random plastic corner pieces.
My old microwave came with some plastic corner supports inside the box. I bought adhesive hook and loop velcro from amazon and made my own. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OXK4C0/
Is your sub box pointing up? I always had my subs facing toward the rear of the car?
That's another option, but i found it safer to lay the sub on it's back for now. It is dual ported and sounds fine.
Also, I would have to add supports to the top of the trunk frame to keep the sub from falling back. This can also be done with hook and loop velcro and plastic ends. Winter is here and no more time.
Need help on Burmester amp wires. There are 2 gauges of the same color for most in the bundle. Looking for the footwell "woofers" (PK and VT) to splice into for a JL/ microsub. I tried the door mids - no go no sound. Is the larger gauge the correct ones?
When I start the vehicle if the audio is selected to radio or satellite I get about 2 seconds of audio not amped through my center channel since it is the channel I did not run to the DSP. I chose to not hook up this channel since I don’t have enough inputs on the DSP and figured this one would be least impacted. My subwoofer amp is using a 12v switched turnon lead from the Helix DSP so they both go active at the same time (JL Audio amp turn on response is near instant). I listed to mostly Bluetooth audio so I don’t normally notice the delay. Not a huge deal to me.
I am thinking about upgrading my Audison project to the helix V eight. Doing some research. Can you share your V eight config file for the W205? I want to check out the input setup you used. For example do you need to sum inputs sub 1 and sub 2 and feed both pre outs (are they a pair?) or just one is needed to drive an external sub? My JL Sub has left and right channel low level inputs.
Thanks to the super informative posts and blog by Mike5215, I've decided to embark on the Great Burmester Upgrade of 2017 (maybe into 2018). Before writing anything else, I wanted to give accolades where they belong and that lies solely with Mike all the contributors that have come before me. Please see Mike's outstanding write up here. Years (decades) ago, I installed some rather large car systems in a few of my cars. As a recent purchaser of the 2017 C43, I loved everything about the car when I drove off with it. Then I noticed the rattles everyone seems to talk about (slowly getting those addressed). Next, I realized the sound system sounded...well...not nearly as good as the car looked. As others have pointed out, there is a lack of bass from the front firing "woofers" and the system has about 1 MILLion (exactly) mid-range 4" drivers. I also am super irritated when I try and run it at higher volume levels everything goes to hell and the bass even drops out. There appears to be no way to control the sound and that's where the help of others have inspired me to once again pick up my crimping tool and correct these deficiencies.
I will post progress as things develop. For the most part, I will be following Mike's guide. I am on the fence about the JL Audio 8's though. I THINK I want a pair of 10's, but we'll see. I don't need any trunk space so that's not a factor. I'll also add some pics of things that I was unsure about from the online instructions I found, in case it helps the next person. Anywho....on with it.
Some pictures of interior removal and other stuff.
Removing the rear trunk liner from bottom and right side of the car. I used this tool to remove the plastic pins that mostly hold the liner in. Helped a bunch. This is what it looks like once they are removed.
This little clip is interesting. Use a couple flat head screw drivers to gently pry each side up and then pull the pin out. The clip will then come straight out with a little convincing.
Anyone know the part number/where to find the little upholstery pins? I was careful but one broke.
Some shots of the battery area for fun (and the engine--who can forget about that?). There is a filter above the battery that just comes out with a little messaging. I wanted to get a feel from the battery post connections on what size diameter connector I will need for attaching the power cable.
I placed my order today for the MUST HAVE pieces of the upgrade (Audison AP 8.9 bit at eBay and the JL Audio Fix 82 also on eBay). Found some good prices on eBay and am awaiting their arrival. Really sucks to have to get the Fix 82, but from what Mike has said, it's the right way to go.
I do like the JL Audio dual 8's Mike put in, but am really on the fence. They are pricey and I'm not sure the 8's are enough for my needs (still, I will happily pay for them if they are "that" good). I don't need so much bass that it's all you can hear, but I do want to know I have it and can feel it pretty strongly. Still open to thoughts here, as I've yet to drop the cash and make a purchase for the subwoofer setup.
I recently had one of these installed. Its very clean sound. The way it should sound.
Fairly confident. In C mode, you don't really hear it unless you stomp on the gas, and even then, it's only a little bit of excess noise. If you have it in sport or sport+ mode, it's ridiculously loud. I can turn the stereo volume ALL the way down and the engine/exhaust noise is still present in the speakers and makes a horrible noise. Regardless, I have some double checking of wiring to do this weekend and will be hooking up the Fix82 to 12V switched. I will hopefully have more to report after that effort.
I know its been 4 years since you posted this, but just in case youre still on here.. Did you ever figure out why you can hear the exhaust in the speakers when you switch it to Sport or Sport+ mode? I have a JL Audio 12 with 500w amp professionally installed and can hear it the second I switch out of Comfort mode. Its pretty annoying. Thanks!
I know its been 4 years since you posted this, but just in case youre still on here.. Did you ever figure out why you can hear the exhaust in the speakers when you switch it to Sport or Sport+ mode? I have a JL Audio 12 with 500w amp professionally installed and can hear it the second I switch out of Comfort mode. Its pretty annoying. Thanks!
There is an active sound module in the loom feeding the factory amp, 8 cables I assume are 4 pairs covering FR FL RR RL. If you're getting your signal from the high level output of the factory amp via a box like the JL or DSP with analogue inputs then this noise is going to be baked in. If you're running the Connect2 or Match adapter loom you could look to depin / cut these links, or run a Zen-M for a digitally MOST150 sourced input signal.
4900w rms, how are you running that type of amp draw on a stock car electrical system? i've been out of the audio game for a very long time so maybe i missed some crazy advancement in electrical design. craftmanship is awesome though, and op as well.
earlier people were talking about ported boxes vs rear firing. imo, ported 'generally' doesn't matter which direction the woofer is, sealed enclosures you 'generally' point backwards away from you for best effect. As you know and simply put, the whole idea is for bass waves to bounce more. I used to have a full speaker enclosure a very long time ago. it was sealed on one side and ported on the other. id faced the port to the rear of the car for maximum sound.
Last edited by Primal_MB; 05-20-2021 at 04:38 PM.
Reason: update
4900w rms, how are you running that type of amp draw on a stock car electrical system? i've been out of the audio game for a very long time so maybe i missed some crazy advancement in electrical design. craftmanship is awesome though, and op as well.
earlier people were talking about ported boxes vs rear firing. imo, ported 'generally' doesn't matter which direction the woofer is, sealed enclosures you 'generally' point backwards away from you for best effect. As you know and simply put, the whole idea is for bass waves to bounce more. I used to have a full speaker enclosure a very long time ago. it was sealed on one side and ported on the other. id faced the port to the rear of the car for maximum sound.
everything is class D now.. so what was before tons and tons of power draw, has been minimized quite a bit. Now, while I have the opportunity to push that much power, i’ve mainly got it setup to minimize my noise floor and maximize available power for dynamics. The system is geared towards sound quality.
that big one is 2500 (mono), the smaller ones are 1200w each (6 channel amps)
my old car had a 200a alternator and a massive battery to do maybe half the power class A/B.
as far as using that tub in the rear… your enemy is depth. I forget the airspace I was able to get, but it was roughly the bare minimum for 3 10” subs, about 1.5-2 cubic feet. The tub isn’t wide enough for 2 12s and it’s almost too big for a single. A 15” would be cool, but there’s nothing shallow that could fit with 6-7” depth, unless you raise the floor higher.
In case anyone is wondering how to make it completely stealth…. All fits under the factory rug.
Hey, I am trying to use this wiring harness, but when I got it it was prelabeled, which would be nice but the labels do not correspond to the wiring diagram that most of you use. Can someone help?
My confusion was because everyone was telling me that the front subwoofer wires were pink/black and violet/black. Thats not the case on the one I have. Subwoofer in and out are white/black and grey/black.
My confusion was because everyone was telling me that the front subwoofer wires were pink/black and violet/black. Thats not the case on the one I have. Subwoofer in and out are white/black and grey/black.
The OEM connector at the OEM AMP has different colors than the Helix harness.
This is an aftermarket Y cable as an example to the show pin locations.
Attached is the actual W205 Burmester wiring diagram with OEM wire colors.
Gunnysack, did you have any issues with the Audison software setting up your speaker outputs? i am wanting to set up a way that I think it should allow but it isn't giving me the choice.
08-30-2018, 10:34 PM
