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For the Record.... I put two cans of BG 44K injector cleaner in my gas tank and added one can of LiquiMoly Lifter additive to my oil tank...
completely cured the bad lifter tick and now the car idles smoother than a sewing machine and the power gained just from 44K and the lifter additive is actually very noticeable if you have a lot of carbon buildup. Part throttle light load improvement is most notable (aka daily driving)
For the Record.... I put two cans of BG 44K injector cleaner in my gas tank and added one can of LiquiMoly Lifter additive to my oil tank...
completely cured the bad lifter tick and now the car idles smoother than a sewing machine and the power gained just from 44K and the lifter additive is actually very noticeable if you have a lot of carbon buildup. Part throttle light load improvement is most notable (aka daily driving)
That's been my experience although the lifter additive didn't do much.
I've put a variety of stuff down my oil hole. Currently I'm riding on 2 bottles of ceratec and 4 syringes of XADO with one can of oil saver too. The car runs better with every mile I drive, I'm at 2500ish now. Gonna keep the stuff in the oil until 5k let it do its magic, then I'm gonna drain it and replace with just 5w40 Rotella and 2 bottles of MoS2 for the next oil change. It's crazy how much smoother the car runs compared to when I got it. (I have an E55).
I even put a syringe of xado in the tranny and it's shifting smoother than ever.
I've put a lot of fuel additives down the hatch over the past year, maybe 15 bottles, with each one a little bit of improvement.
Never heard of it before but saw this. Similar claims as the Liqui Moly products. I wonder if XADO is titanium-based? XADO EX120 For Petrol Engines
Xado Revitalizant rebuilds, repairs, and protects engine metal in all types of gasoline and natural-gas powered vehicles, including turbocharged and supercharged engines. Extreme Action 120% repairs scratches and wear caused by high heat and friction, then it forms a protective, self-regulating layer of nano metal-ceramic on treated parts to protect the engine metal from future wear. Independent tests show that Revitalizant increases engine compression, increases horsepower, reduces emissions, and improves gas mileage!
Xado EX120 helps engines run smoother and last longer plus EX120 is compatible with all types of motor oil, including full-synthetic!
No matter how well an engine is maintained, high heat and friction causes metal to become worn, scratched, and deformed over time. The destruction of the surface layer occurs in high-friction areas, where entire groups of atoms – clusters - may tear off under extreme loads. Until now there was no way to reverse this inevitable metal wear.
EX120 starts repairing scratched and worn metal as soon as it is added to the engine oil. Revitalizant acts as a catalyst for rebuilding and repairing metal in areas of excessive thermal energy. It activates the absorption process of carbon through the surface layer which results in the formation of metal carbides. Revitalizant rebuilds metal at a molecular level, atom-by-atom, reversing wear and restoring engine geometry. A new durable protective coating is formed with the help of carbides and metal particles. Because it has a self-regulating maximum thickness it does not cake. The appearance of a Revitalized surface is smooth and glassy. Its physical structure however is a metal strengthened by metal carbides and carbon. The treated surface is transformed into a diamond-like film. The result of Revitalization is an extra hard surface layer on a soft and flexible base – an almost perfect strengthening technique that guarantees an increased life.
I think it's a ceramic treatment like CERATEC. I've had good experience with it so far, I would highly recommend you get 3 syringes on amazon and try it, i don't know what else to tell you. For $30-40 it is the best additive I've added. It's quietted down the oil chain slapping and everything, the car runs super smooth compared to how it was when I got it last year. I change the oil every 3k normally, and have been experimenting with a variety of additives (mos2, flush with Kreen, flush with LM engine flush, ceratec, BG MoA, and the XADO stuff). With each one the car has just improved.
My proof is anecdotal at best but I can tell you that I've done an additive with pretty much every oil change over the past 15k miles and my car is better because of it.
Not trying to promote any of these additives, your mileage may vary, but they definitely have made a difference. If in 50k miles I don't have issues 2 years from now I'll be proof that additives make a difference. They're not cheap of course.
If you want to try a treatment go to fcp euro and buy the v8 additive pack. Let me show you:
As far as fuel additives go: Gumout One n Done is pretty ultimate, I have put a bottle in the tank twice, it has a lot of PEA which is what you'd want for carbon deposit on your cylinder heads
Another very good one is Red Line fuel additive
Techron of course but I found it to be pretty mild, definitely a recommended cleaner from Mercedes even
My sedan is low mileage and did the engine flush and ceratec treatment. Ceratec is to be ran in the car for at least 6000km is what I have read. Also my process was slightly different from above:
Started the car until temperature was at 80c
I changed and drained the old oil
Added Mobil 1 0w-40
Added the engine flush to the fresh Mobil 1 0w-40 (reason is to help with ensuring the engine flush is circulated properly on immediate start up)
Ran the engine flush through according to Liquimoly's directions
Flushed the contaminated oil and got quite a bit of gunk and fine pieces of metal out (and yes I wasted brand new Mobil 1)
Used Liqui Moly 5w-40
Added Ceratec as per directions
Car has been quiet but it does get occasional initial Cam Adjuster Chatter that goes away after a few seconds when it's been sitting for quite sometime (weeks and beyond)
In my head I am thinking that if leaks form it is likely from a pre-existing leak that has been blocked by engine gunk. Perhaps the engine flush cleared that plugged up area out and now that the engine is clean it is experiencing leaks. Probably a higher risk of leaks in higher mileage engines because of this?
Add 2 cans of LM motor oil saver if you're worried about leaks/oil use. It'll do it's thing. Not sure what it does but it work, my damn rear main seal does not leak any longer, I'll tell you that much....
Also, guys, for a very good engine flush + fuel system additive look into Kano Labs Kreen. It looks like some voodoo stuff but they add it to very expensive machinery and it works very well for cars. Bobistheoilguy.com has good reviews on it.
I've been keeping my eye on this noise thing with C63's, but this last week was the first time I also heard some ticking noise what I haven't heard earlier. Is this the infamous cam/lifter/adjusters noise? I've read a bunch of threads on this topic, but haven't gotten a straightforward answer - is this actually an issue? My noise goes away after a few minutes and you can hear it in the second video too where it is starting to fade away during the end. Is there actually a fix for this? Because some of you guys have had some of your engine components replaced, yet the sound has still came back.
I've been keeping my eye on this noise thing with C63's, but this last week was the first time I also heard some ticking noise what I haven't heard earlier. Is this the infamous cam/lifter/adjusters noise? I've read a bunch of threads on this topic, but haven't gotten a straightforward answer - is this actually an issue? My noise goes away after a few minutes and you can hear it in the second video too where it is starting to fade away during the end. Is there actually a fix for this? Because some of you guys have had some of your engine components replaced, yet the sound has still came back.
Same thing happened to me today. Disappeared once warm. Did an oil change with 600mL of Ceratec less than 600miles ago. Will keep an eye on it. Not sure what the fix is.
Few questions, I think I'm going to do this next week.I figure since I'm doing new injectors and a catch can it's the best time to be doing this.
1) The engine flush, what does that do? Burns off any buildup/sludge? Is it safe as long as it's used at idling?
2) If I do the engine flush and my mechanic drains my oil by the plug, I must have a least a litre left in the cooler, which will have the engine flush left it. I assume i'd HAVE to have all the oil removed if i did this?
3) then from there you just toss in two cans of ceratec and top the rest off with oil as nomral? Do you run the ceratec the full life of your oil? What about how it might affect the properties of the oil, especially on a high perfomance vehicle. Sure 600ml in 9 litres of oil isn't much but I assume it's got to change it a bit.
4) I see people also talk about the mos2? When would that be used and why would you switch to that after ceratec? I assume you'd use that on the following and every oil change after the oil with the ceratec has been removed?
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
For the reasons you stated above, I would never put anything like an engine flush or a stop-leak in your oil. That stuff will stay in there for many oil changes to an extent, and neither is good. These engines run clean and there's no reason to flush. People have opened these up after 100k miles with no signs of sludge or buildup. It's an overstated risk. Far more risky to put stuff in your oil that you don't want to stay there. For example, additional moly added via MOS2 stays in the system to an extent for at least 2 oil changes. Install a catch can and be done with it.
I dosed with Ceratec 2 years ago. Let that run for an oil cycle. Then on subsequent changes I throw in 2 bottles of MOS2 at each. I'm probably due for another Ceratec dose before this winter, then will repeat with MOS2 as usual.
Ceratec is a ceramic treatment. MOS2 is molybendum which was the prevailing additive (along with ZDDP) added to oil before they moved to more environmentally friendly additives, and is a critical lubricant for flat tappet engines like ours. Do some research on BITOG as there are many threads detailing the specs and success stories. I run my engine hard, and my last few Blackstone analyses have looked great (with the exception of relatively high lead which is probably just because I use race gas 100% of the time).
For the reasons you stated above, I would never put anything like an engine flush or a stop-leak in your oil. That stuff will stay in there for many oil changes to an extent, and neither is good. These engines run clean and there's no reason to flush. People have opened these up after 100k miles with no signs of sludge or buildup. It's an overstated risk. Far more risky to put stuff in your oil that you don't want to stay there. For example, additional moly added via MOS2 stays in the system to an extent for at least 2 oil changes. Install a catch can and be done with it.
I dosed with Ceratec 2 years ago. Let that run for an oil cycle. Then on subsequent changes I throw in 2 bottles of MOS2 at each. I'm probably due for another Ceratec dose before this winter, then will repeat with MOS2 as usual.
Ceratec is a ceramic treatment. MOS2 is molybendum which was the prevailing additive (along with ZDDP) added to oil before they moved to more environmentally friendly additives, and is a critical lubricant for flat tappet engines like ours. Do some research on BITOG as there are many threads detailing the specs and success stories. I run my engine hard, and my last few Blackstone analyses have looked great (with the exception of relatively high lead which is probably just because I use race gas 100% of the time).
I know some of these threads get old for long term members but these are the types of responses I genuinely appreciate, good info. I'm going to stay clear of the flush, I've only got 37k miles on the car anyways and have a weistec catch can going in this coming week. I'll do an oil change and do two bottles of ceratec then two bottles of MOS2 there after. It's a bit settling to hear you're doing analyses after whilst running this additives and they're still coming back good.
I have added ceratec on my last oil change due to lifter noise that didn’t stop. It didn’t not help right away until i left the car cool down. The noise was gone ever since until one time that i have left my car not driven for 5 days. When i started, it started ticking until it warmed up.
i dont think ceratec help with lifter noise. I think there is a design flaw on this engine.
But i do feel ceratec makes the engine run more free. I noticed a little more umpth at low rpm.
I have been searching the forums for months now trying to find a solution to the lifter/cam noise on my M156 (ML63 MY2007, Euro spec)
** Nov 2013 - Basically, it started with the usual tick tick tick that's so annoying
** Dec 2013 - I have taken it to my tech at the indy shop i deal with and they opened the valve cover, one cam lobes is notched and the corresponding lifter isn't in a great shape
--- Now we started the parts journey!! ---
all new head bolts, all gaskets, valve seals, all new part number lifter from the M159 and the new updated both cam shafts (intake) and new chain and chain-guide
** Feb 2014 -- all parts have arrived. head is cleaned and sanded/polished. all parts are in... and tech started the timing adjustment.
fired up the engine, after warm up, the freaking lifter noise is there!!!! after $$$ and time it is there!! I hated it! SOOO MUCH!
** March 2014 -- the engine was filled with Mobil 1 0w40, and the tech told me to try something else!
I switched to Liqui-Moly 5w40, with Lifter noise additive added.... didnt do a thing... the lifter comes and goes!
the tech told me to just live with it... he said it won't damage the engine or parts.
** April 2014 -- really hating the noise! and the comments from some friends !!! I tried Caltex 10w50 oil ... the noise was worse! drove 200km on it and changed it.
Now... the fun part!! and remediation started, this is what I did:
5. Fired the car... one minute and ALL NOISES ARE GONE!
drove it in disbelieving for two hours... NO NOISE
next morning I fired it up... SO QUITE! NO NOISE! and sounded like it did warm up!
I AM SO HAPPY! knock on wood that it continues!!
note: I am not affiliated with any company.
Hi! , I know it's been a long time since you posted this comment but I'd like to know how it ended up, may be you sold the car but your experience will help us especially people like me who are just getting into this C63 fascinating and scaring world. My new C63 2010 is on its way to me and I was already warned that it's expericing engine noise. I already bought liqui moly 5w40 and two cans of LM engine flush. Please any comment will be appreciated. Thanks.
12 C63BS Magno Alanite Grey, 22 X3M Brooklyn Grey, 08 BMW E93, 22 Ducati Desert Sled, John Deere 3R
Originally Posted by Marco R
Hi! , I know it's been a long time since you posted this comment but I'd like to know how it ended up, may be you sold the car but your experience will help us especially people like me who are just getting into this C63 fascinating and scaring world. My new C63 2010 is on its way to me and I was already warned that it's expericing engine noise. I already bought liqui moly 5w40 and two cans of LM engine flush. Please any comment will be appreciated. Thanks.
Would love ot hear about this also - mine did it for the first time, never had the issue with my 2013 but my 2014 did it yesterday - seems it is normal for the scenario - car sat for 2 weeks without running, started it up to switch some cars around last night and my god, you know when you have the lifter tick as it is loud and sound like nothing else the car has every done. let it idle a few minutes and then put the car back in. Read up a bit more, every says get it up to temp and it will go away most likely - went out this morning to drive it and no tick at all on the cold start. May throw some Mos2 in it as it does tend to sit a bit, but I guess nothing to worry about.
06-01-2018, 07:11 PM
