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W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars, EQE 4Matic+ on order
+1 on what Jasonoff said - that is mot definitely the wrong oil for the car. It's a xW-30 weight and not thick enough for a M156 engine when hot. You need to get it out of the engine ASAP as it doesn't have anywhere near the film shear strength that your engine needs. If a dealer put that in, I would have a serious chat with the service manager.
There is a MB-branded 229.5 oil - which is actually not too bad - but it is a very different oil from what you've got there. 229.52 is NOT just a newer spec of 229.5 - it is a much lower viscosity and low-SAPS oil made for MB's modern diesel engines with the DPFs. Get the 229.52 out and use a 229.5 oil in your C63. If MB put that in by mistake, they better change it for free ASAP. Don't drive the car hard (rev past 3500 rpm) and keep it in C the entire time while you have the thin 229.52 oil in there.
P.S. I am hoping they made an honest mistake - the bottles look almost identical, but the oil certainly isn't. The MB-branded, Shell-made 229.5 oil is pretty decent, but the 229.52 stuff was made for MB's diesels, not high-performance AMG gasoline engines. It's a very different formulation and viscosity.
Many have their oil preferences, the truth is that the quality differences between MB approved synthetics aren't really worth fussing over.
Keep in mind that the MB branded oil is just repackaged oil from one of the major manufacturers and suppliers could change over time. I'm sure someone can comment on who the current manufacturer is.
Mobil 1 is a solid product, you can't go wrong. If you're doing the oil change yourself, you could likely source it more easily and cheaply than MB branded oil.
W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars, EQE 4Matic+ on order
^ To actually understand that, at the very least you'd need two engineering degrees (chemical and mechanical) and ~30 years of experience working in the synthetic lubricant industry, in addition to being intimately acquainted with the idiosyncracies of the M156 motor and knowing in advance the conditions and type of use the particular motor is going to experience - since an oil that may be excellent for racing can be very bad for daily driving in the very same engine for example.
The rest of us have to rely on what little knowledge we have gained reading posts by said engineers on BITOG, applying logic and sound thinking principles and not buying into marketing hype, and in my particular case, personal conversations with one such engineer who happens to be a good friend.
If you do a search for my username (Diabolis) and "Mobil 1" on this site alone, you'll find enough information on the subject to make you puke.
In a HEALTHY M156 motor (no valvetrain wear to begin with), *I* like the M1 0W-40 better than anything else. At startup you will burn off three times as much as you would with the MB-branded 229.5 oil, you'll use 1.7% more gas and you'll clog up your catalytic converters in 11 years instead of 15, but you'll subject the rest of your engine to 30%-50% less wear if you ever start the car in sub-zero temperatures and/or change your oil at the prescribed service intervals (once a year) instead of every 3,000 km.
If you live in Russia where the gas is not the cleanest and/or you ever have to start your C63 at -15C or below, the M1 0W-40 is the much better choice of the two. If you live in Florida and want to save $10 in gas over the course of a year, the MB 229.5 is the better oil.
Would the M1 0W-40 still be one of the best choices in a climate like Tokyo? Winter doesn't get too cold, maybe around 0°c and very dry, whereas summer gets up to around 30°c and very very humid.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
There's a lot of misinformation here. Diabolis will be along soon to clean this up.
In short: The M1 0W-40 is quantitatively - not by 'feelings', or 'from guys in the know', or whatever - one of the top 2 if not the #1 oil to use for these engines. It's a fact. It has the best additive package, and UOA have proven its worth.
0W-40 will get to the lifters faster on cold starts, which is where you want it fastest. A 5W will make it 'sound' quieter, but you are only masking the problem by going with a higher weight. What it 'sounds' like is very different from reality in this case.
10-24-2015, 08:40 AM
Maybe it's a new recommendation?
