Head Bolt replacement quote....too cheap?
 

I'm a new owner to a 2009 with 49k on it. Researched these cars for about a year before picking one out. I've driven my fair share of M's, Vette's, motorcycles, and this is by far the best vehicle ever.

The more I read about the potential headbolt issue, the more worried I get. I inquired from a shop who's website I found off of Weistec, and they quoted me $1000 for the ARP studs and $900 in labor.

Does this seem too cheap? I was thinking $3500 for the job to be done. This doesn't include any work/replacements on the cams/lifters. Would you consider just having the head bolts done, or would you go all out and get the cams/lifters done as well?

Any idea how much the cams/lifters cost? I'm not having much luck finding them online.

Here's the shop link > http://imamotorwerke.com/

I dont know but Im interested in hearing cos that seems damn cheap to me. Consider this a bump.

What's their shop hourly rate?

Seems cheap to me, I wouldn't even touch it for that price in my garage at home.


Cams are probably around $1000 each x 4, lifters are $1000. They don't need to be done unless there is a problem. Check them out if they are fine leave them be. Some have had that issue, but I think its more rare than headbolts.

BTW, you don't need studs for a stock engine. Just use the revised MB bolts, they will be way cheaper.

I just re-read your post and came back to this phrase. I would have to say that statistically speaking I wouldn't worry about it too much (cue the usual parties who will come and freak out in opposition to that statement). While its true that we don't have any hard numbers on occurrences here, its safe to say from the number of posters here who have had it vs those who haven't, combined with very little anecdotal evidence from mechanics (both autho'd dealers and not) that this is likely not another shoe waiting to drop. It may be, but way more likely not.
Ive had two so far, an 08 and an 09, and never had an issue and I have bigger, more likely stuff to burn my energy on. I could expand on all of this, but....why? Its just my opinion and there are lots of threads on this.

Go turn the ESP off for a bit and forget all about it :)

I'd leave and drive it.

Well, I guess I could have just said that! :rolf:

Agreed.

Thank you both for your input....and before I bought the car, my original plan was to not sweat it and just enjoy it. After reading your comments, that's exactly what I'm going to do, I'll worry about about the headbolts if I have any symptoms, until then, no point in sitting around worrying about it.

Thanks again!

I would say they don't know the full extent of what needs to be done and that price will either go up, or you will get unnecessary work done to other parts. I would find another place, or a dealer and get a different quote.

It is mostly catastrophic by the time you have symptoms. I would still look into replacing them asap so I can sleep well at night.

No its not. If a bolt stretches, you'll lose coolant. If a bolt breaks the head off, you're in trouble. Usually they stretch, few snap off.

If that's so how many have you worked on that this is the case do tell us. what a lie.

I'm with the OP-if I had a 6.0L Power-stroke, even if my head gasket wasn't leaking-I would still make it "bulletproof". Same for the M156-if in fact i had one-i would replace head studs with ARP-broken or not-i just wouldn't be able to sleep at night. Especially knowing I'd be hammering the shyt out of it. THIS IS JUST MY OPINION-so all of you that disagree don't get butthurt.
My sister just bought a 204.077 (c63) and i intend on replacing her head bolts, 1 because she plans on keeping the car for a while, 2 because Mercedes Benz Cooperate has a service bulletin pertaining to this exact issue and her engine number falls within the range.
Once it's done, me and her will both be worry free-the door will be closed on the "when will my head bolts stretch"???? or break....

just my 2 cents

oh and things could potentially get catastrophic

Remove cylinder heads.
Measure piston deck height (specified value: 0.18 mm +/- 0.05 mm). If the measurement from the top surface of the cylinder crankcase to the top surface of the piston is outside of the specification (the maximum deck height is 0.23 mm), the affected connecting rod with piston and bearings must be replaced.
Replace all cylinder head bolts.
Replace all hydraulic tappets.
Change engine oil and filter and replenish engine coolant.
Another oil change must be performed after about 15 mile test drive (engine must run at operating temperature).

theres been a few that have had this done where i work- so don't be too over confident if you engine is within range....:y:y:y