c63amg507

if i may put in my two cents .......ne thing that never ceases to amaze me after all these years is the fact that the real secret in great braking lies in........the rotors.......you cant just change pads and expect to upgrade your braking a lot , actually when your pads are done you should also change your rotors as well . rotors generate heat, heat transfers to the pads that heat your brake fluid ,its downhill from there . also gas is emitted from heat and friction pushing back your pads . race guys have bee doing this for years.......they put Cryo rotors on their race cars , the benefits are very important and noticeable immediately , also gas slotting your rotors helps too , cross drilling looks awsome but weakens your rotors , not as good as gas slotting . stainless steel braided hoses will improve your pedal feel also . cryogenic processing your rotors is relatively inexpensive and will greatly improve not only your braking it also makes your rotors last a lot more . now you can put more aggressive compound pads an really feel the difference ,otherwise you are just overheating your rotors faster .i have been doing this for years on all my cars with great succes . quite a few company do this , i use the ones from diversified cryogenics or frozen rotors if you prefer , i got their info from dirt track racers and i have never had reason to complain . i even think that tire rack sells Cryo rotors . im not sure if the process is the same everywhere though . obviously if you start with better rotor you will end up with better results .

Ambystom01

Rotors don't generate heat. They operate as heat sinks. The pads heat the rotors.

If you're concerned about heat transfer to the fluid, brake ducts, shields and higher temp fluid is the way to fix it.

Diabolis

c63amg507 has a valid point - the OEM rotors are not made to withstand the extra heat generated by higher-temperature pads, and will warp with higher-temp pads even at full thickness. Was just commenting on this in another thread. I just got RacingBrake rotors, which are not cross-drilled (but their design allows for gasses to escape through the open slots), and the annuli (rings) are made of considerably harder steel than the P31 OEM ones that should not warp with more aggressive pads. Will see how they fare at the track next year - track season here is pretty much over.

Ambystom01

I'd be surprised if somebody warped the stock rotors using dual purpose pads.

Diabolis

I did - after one track day with Endless MX-72s. While the braking performance with the Endless pads both on and off the track is excellent, the OEM P31 rotors warped and developed large-ish cracks around all of the cross-drilled holes (some cracking is normal, but not when they get long enough to connect adjacent holes).

Ambystom01

Weird, first time I've heard of stock rotors on any car warping and cracking using fairly street-friendly pads.

Diabolis

It has happened to me a number of times on other cars as well, with other "street-friendly pads" like Hawk HP Plus and even PBR / Axxis Metal Masters - but only after the rotors have been subjected to SUSTAINED high-temperatures while driving at the track. It probably takes 15-20 minutes of the rotors being at whatever temperatures they get to at the track until the steel sufficiently "softens" in order to warp. None were parked with hot brakes (i.e. hot-spotted) or suddenly and/or partially cooled (like driving through a puddle or being hosed with water). They all had a proper cool-down lap or two. Happened on my old Volvo 850 T5R, Audi S4, two BMW M3s and now on the C63. Never on the P-cars with brake cooling ducts though. Changing to "better" aftermarket rotors (even one-piece steel rotors like the dba 4000 series) always cured the problem. Just my experience... YMMV.

Phil Chow

Also depends on the track I would find. Obviously some tracks are much harder on brakes than others, and, the driver too.

But yes, lots of people can cook OEM Rotors. A lot of the E36 M3 guys that track, will just buy OEM Rotors and swap them off each time, as they warp them after each track day. Cheaper to just continue swapping each time than buying expensive 2Pc Rotors, which, after a bunch of track days, are toast anyways.

Mazspeed

I agree with some of this, but this is somewhat spot on.
It all depends on how you're going to track it. Here and there? Through the mountains early on a Sunday morning? 2-3 track days per year? 5+ track days per year?
How are your driving skills? Do you ride the brake on the track?
Ok, well for a car of this weight and if you have a few bucks and want to do this right, the first thing you do is change the rotors. The AMG rotors are good for light track and aggressive driving, but all out track duty they will fall short.
I stopped using drilled rotors years ago since I cracked my fair share. Find a slotted type with an aluminum hat. The Aluminum hat will put less heat on the bearings, wheels and will dissipate heat of the rotors much faster. Check BLKROKT's car. He has the right disks.
Porterfield pads are ok for the street, but not for aggressive track use. I have always had great luck with EBC pads. I have not tried them on the C63 yet, but have done me well on other track cars. But be careful, a lot of aftermarket pads won't be half as good as the stock ones. If you cannot find a top notch pad, go back to the stock AMG ones and not some of the Autozone semi metallic or semi ceramics.
Stainless lines and Ford racing brake fluid or Redline racing brake fluid are 2 of the best I have used. Yes Ford racing brake fluid is top notch. Their cars suck, but the fluid rocks.
I have never cryo-ed parts, but hear good things about it.


Hope that helps.

Terryamg04

Wow 12.5k miles did you track the car ?

Diabolis

^ This.

c63amg507

im surprised that very few people know about Cryo parts . pro racing classes that are not allowed to use carbon rotors have been using that process for years with great success . some race engine builders use it also for cranks, rods etc . it is also not that expensive . on my bimmer i have been using it for 10 years at least with great succes . once i even put cool ***** racing pads on it , man that car braked so hard even from cold start . if you went all out brake dust became so hot that it burned through wheel powdercoat , i kid you not . my rotors never failed me....brembo gas slot Cryo . i now use it on everything i own ,even f250 gopher truck . as oil i use ate 200 racing brake fluid also with succes .

95gsrturbo

Reviving this thread.
Curious is any info has changed in recent years

Any one else want to comment on Ford Racing Brake fluid? Any other suggestions?

I also need a good pad for the street. I had Porterfield R4-S on my last C63. Debating what to do on this car. I liked those pads and had NO issues. But I never had the time to track it

Who knows if I'll make time this year but, do people think that the R4-S is a good all around option?

AMG6.3

Ditto.

I have used stock, Porterfields and MX-72 and endless worth price

95gsrturbo

End result for track time is:
Endless MX-72
solid rotors
Ford Brake fluid

But what if you have a daily driver - with an occasional (1-2x a year) track event?
swap out to a different pad or ? Porterfield R4S?

Chemical7

I used EBC yellow stuff on my 2010 C63 AMG, and they worked great for daily driving. Never got a chance to track them, however.

///Bruce

EBC Red Stuff!

63 Molar

EBC reds for street
EBC yellows for track

///Bruce

I agree.... Good choices.

Cwagon

I'm running EBC Yellows on my DD and never had any problems with sqealing or noise.
I ran Reds on my old car and these are better even when cold.

Gazwould

Obviously Red aren't for track , but what's the difference in street dust between these as I once swapped out yellow for red because yellow was so dusty .

Cwagon

I found them around the same for dust but the yellows definitely have more bite when cold and of course better hot.
IMHO the yellows work well on the street in our cars because the C63's are quite heavy despite their small size.

AMG6.3

Agree with above. I had OEM, Porterfields and MX72. Currently running MX72 on the fronts and RS4s on the back and the effort to stop car is unreal

Nhaf

Get some textars and call it a day