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FF. W212 E63 M156 non-pano 18" P2 ParkT NightV (gone but will be missed).
Typical wear pattern caused by a combination of deault negative camber and intoeing setup from the factory. However, it should affect both tires on the same axle. Well at least wires haven't poked through yet. Always keep an eye on all tires' inner edges from time to time for AMG vehicles.
Typical wear pattern caused by a combination of deault negative camber and intoeing setup from the factory. However, it should affect both tires on the same axle. Well at least wires haven't poked through yet. Always keep an eye on all tires' inner edges from time to time for AMG vehicles.
Could this be fixed with a custom alignment using factory adjustments?
Could this be fixed with a custom alignment using factory adjustments?
Or would i need a after market camber kit?
I'm betting you will need the aftermarket camber kit to fix this, but I'm not positive. It's surprising that such a nice car doesn't have a camber adjustment!
Could this be fixed with a custom alignment using factory adjustments?
Or would i need a after market camber kit?
Ok! So I bought my car at the end of September and it went in for a full check up and service including 4 wheel alignment. This looks to me to be possible excess cambre either as a result of worn suspension components, accident damage or just plain neglect.
You will need new Camber bolts any time you get it aligned my tech told me.
These car are designed to run from -1.39 to -2.11 degrees of camber from the print out off my dealer's new equipment and 0.10 to 0.27 degrees of Toe.
I would start there as any mechanical deficiencies will be spotted when they prep it for alignment by replacing the Camber bolts.
It cost me $350 CDN to get it done including the bolts and one other part but they also corrected the rear thrust angle too.
Well worth it in my view.
Last edited by Alex.currie44; 11-22-2016 at 12:31 AM.
Ok! So I bought my car at the end of September and it went in for a full check up and service including 4 wheel alignment. This looks to me to be possible excess cambre either as a result of worn suspension components, accident damage or just plain neglect.
You will need new Camber bolts any time you get it aligned my tech told me.
These car are designed to run from -1.39 to -2.11 degrees of camber from the print out off my dealer's new equipment and 0.10 to 0.27 degrees of Toe.
I would start there as any mechanical deficiencies will be spotted when they prep it for alignment by replacing the Camber bolts.
It cost me $350 CDN to get it done including the bolts and one other part but they also corrected the rear thrust angle too.
Well worth it in my view.
Good information. Could you tell me what camber you have your front wheels/tires set to and are the wearing any on the inside? Thanks. I'll check mine this week to see what kind of camber I'm running in the front.
Good information. Could you tell me what camber you have your front wheels/tires set to and are the wearing any on the inside? Thanks. I'll check mine this week to see what kind of camber I'm running in the front.
Let's see here.
Camber
Left Front -1.85. Right Front -1.96
Toe
As to your question re wear. Too soon to tell as I put new winter tires and wheels on right after they did the alignment.
I cannot tell you anything about the summer tires as it is clear that the previous owner ran the tires softer than spec. There is significantly more wear on the shoulders of both front tires than in the centres. There is 8 mm of tread on both in the centre. The LF inside has 2 mm, the outside 2 mm. The RF has 4 mm on the outside and 3 in the inside so it is hard to say if the wear is alignment caused or low pressure. I expect now that I know this I might run 1-2 psi harder than suggested come spring and see if the wear evens out.
0.13 Left 0.16 right
Caster 11.11 Left 10.65 right
Rear Camber Spec is -1.48 t0 -2.48
Left -2.29 right -2.36 ( I don't know if there is spec for non- staggered set up)
Rear Toe Spec 0.01 to 0.25
Left 0.08 Right 0.11
Total Toe Spec rear 0.14 to 0.38
Total Toe 0.19
Thrust Angled spec -0.12 to 0.12
Thrust angle -0.02
Before alignment right front camber was out at -2.29.
The rear thrust angle was close the bottom spec of - 0.12 at -0.14
Last edited by Alex.currie44; 11-22-2016 at 12:56 AM.
The tire looks like it has toe out rather than toe in; you can tell by the way the rubber is peeled away from the inside edge. Could be just an adjustment to the tie rod end but could possibly be a bad bushing, bad ball joint, or combination of the above. How many miles on your car? If you're over 85,000 miles, time to start looking at the suspension bits wearing out. If less than, I'd go with a toe adjustment.
As to your question re wear. Too soon to tell as I put new winter tires and wheels on right after they did the alignment.
I cannot tell you anything about the summer tires as it is clear that the previous owner ran the tires softer than spec. There is significantly more wear on the shoulders of both front tires than in the centres. There is 8 mm of tread on both in the centre. The LF inside has 2 mm, the outside 2 mm. The RF has 4 mm on the outside and 3 in the inside so it is hard to say if the wear is alignment caused or low pressure. I expect now that I know this I might run 1-2 psi harder than suggested come spring and see if the wear evens out.
0.13 Left 0.16 right
Caster 11.11 Left 10.65 right
Rear Camber Spec is -1.48 t0 -2.48
Left -2.29 right -2.36 ( I don't know if there is spec for non- staggered set up)
Rear Toe Spec 0.01 to 0.25
Left 0.08 Right 0.11
Total Toe Spec rear 0.14 to 0.38
Total Toe 0.19
Thrust Angled spec -0.12 to 0.12
Thrust angle -0.02
Before alignment right front camber was out at -2.29.
The rear thrust angle was close the bottom spec of - 0.12 at -0.14
Thank you so much. You are running plenty of front negative camber, I'll check to see where I am.
The tire looks like it has toe out rather than toe in; you can tell by the way the rubber is peeled away from the inside edge. Could be just an adjustment to the tie rod end but could possibly be a bad bushing, bad ball joint, or combination of the above. How many miles on your car? If you're over 85,000 miles, time to start looking at the suspension bits wearing out. If less than, I'd go with a toe adjustment.
Exactly. With toe in, the outer edge would be feathered as opposed to the inner tire. This looks like excessive toe out wear, but without alignment specs, we don't know if it's actually toe or something else.
Exactly. With toe in, the outer edge would be feathered as opposed to the inner tire. This looks like excessive toe out wear, but without alignment specs, we don't know if it's actually toe or something else.
It could be excess Camber as well so he really needs to get this car checked out and aligned.
I have had the same issue of wearing out the inside of the front tires to the cord. I just checked my camber and I have 1.8 degrees negative on the right front and 1.4 degrees negative on the left front.
But he doesn't have excess camber, nor would excess camber feather the tires like that.
But yes, I agree than an alignment readout would help greatly.
We don't know that it is toe or camber. Excess negative camber (by spec these cars run negative camber) will put pressure on the inside edge of the tire. It could of course be a case of excess camber AND incorrect toe as you suggest.
The point I have made is that he needs to get this car in, have the front end fully inspected for wear on the mechanicals, bushings, tie rod ends etc. and then put on a quality alignment machine and sorted out. Then and only then will he know. We are all just guessing. The best we have to offer at this point is what he already knows. Something is not right.
We don't know that it is toe or camber. Excess negative camber (by spec these cars run negative camber) will put pressure on the inside edge of the tire. It could of course be a case of excess camber AND incorrect toe as you suggest.
The point I have made is that he needs to get this car in, have the front end fully inspected for wear on the mechanicals, bushings, tie rod ends etc. and then put on a quality alignment machine and sorted out. Then and only then will he know. We are all just guessing. The best we have to offer at this point is what he already knows. Something is not right.
No, I'm not suggesting anything. I'm actually saying he needs an alignment readout for us to know whether this is at all alignment related.
For the record, the image of the OP's tires is NOT camber wear. That's for dang sure. This is camber wear:
No, I'm not suggesting anything. I'm actually saying he needs an alignment readout for us to know whether this is at all alignment related.
For the record, the image of the OP's tires is NOT camber wear. That's for dang sure. This is camber wear:
In the extreme eh? This is not normal camber wear on any street car. Look at the exposure of the cords right over into the side wall. This surely has to have come off some thing driven very hard with purposely set high negative camber. We see this all the time on NASCAR when right fronts blow from excess negative camber,
You could be right. I get what you are saying so let's agree there is no contest of opinions here and we do agree on the key point.
He has to get the car checked and aligned.
In the extreme eh? This is not normal camber wear on any street car. Look at the exposure of the cords right over into the side wall. This surely has to have come off some thing driven very hard with purposely set high negative camber. We see this all the time on NASCAR when right fronts blow from excess negative camber,
You could be right. I get what you are saying so let's agree there is no contest of opinions here and we do agree on the key point.
He has to get the car checked and aligned.
Yeah, probably -4 degrees or so and definitely a car that's seen plenty of track time.
That being said, you see how the camber wear is smoothed over half of the tire? That's what I generally see when people refer to wear as camber wear. The reason I dismissed camber wear was the cupping/feathering right on the edge as the wear isn't really smoothed at all.
Yes, we're both agreeing here though. He definitely needs to hit the alignment rack and get a read out. If all of his specs are within factory spec or close too, at that point, it'd be best to start looking at other suspension components.
The tire looks like it has toe out rather than toe in; you can tell by the way the rubber is peeled away from the inside edge. Could be just an adjustment to the tie rod end but could possibly be a bad bushing, bad ball joint, or combination of the above. How many miles on your car? If you're over 85,000 miles, time to start looking at the suspension bits wearing out. If less than, I'd go with a toe adjustment.
Car has 102K Miles on it. I have not gotten an alignment on it yet but plan too.
When i purchased the vehicle a couple of months ago and got a PPI from the Mercedes dealership they did not note any issues with the bushings but i'll have them check it again when they get it on up on a rack.
FF. W212 E63 M156 non-pano 18" P2 ParkT NightV (gone but will be missed).
Originally Posted by Sakebomb
Could this be fixed with a custom alignment using factory adjustments?
Or would i need a after market camber kit?
From what I have read so far that without a kit, toe can be changed but there is nothing you can do with camber. With camber kit outs there, you can probably change the camber. I wouldn't mess with changing the toe, though. It will really change the intended driving dynamic and feel.
11-21-2016, 02:51 PM
