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Just have my m156 apart, got to the head bolts and I can't seem to figure out what size socket the old design head bolts are! I looked through 20 threads online and not one of them mention the socket size needed!
Anyone chime in asap please I want to make more progress tomorrow! Got stopped dead in my tracks tonight!
Also what is concensus on silicone on bolt/ washer heads when installing new head bolts. Repair manual doesn't mention anything regarding this.
Interesting, my T60 won’t fit in mine. 2008 over here. The difference between the T55 and T60 is pretty huge, I’ll see if I can get pics of mine (they are out now).
I hold a security clearance, no smoke over here haha.
Im warming up the garage and continuing work on the passenger side today, I’ll get some pics. My bolts don’t look nearly as corroded as most I’ve seen, but same design. I had very little corrosion, maybe 1 or 2 with the black under the head of the bolt. If it’s true that some are T60 and have a larger hole then those might be the ones that pop the head off. I’ll ask Tasos, he has been helpful when I’ve asked him about questions.
my timing was way off before I removed the cams, my timing mark was around the 1 o’clock position and no where near 40. I asked him about it and he said it’s normal, the only thing holding the timing is the diamond coated washer and they slip. My car is really low mileage so that explains the lack of corrosion but it doesn’t explain the timing that far off.
im replacing the phaser bolts with ARP, hoping these help with slippage but I haven’t compared torque specs between the 2 bolts, just what Weistec has online.
Not that my car runs like crap, or has any codes to suggest timing problems but after driving my buddies M5 (2007) and my brothers Holden commodore as well as driving my old RS6 I have to say the Merc is pretty tame. Maybe it’s the traction control holding the car back, but the M5 feels quicker than my E63.
I have the photos in my phone if someone has the time to text me and post them up. I’m trying to keep going on the project but wanted to make sure I kept the thread valid.
no way a T60 would fit into the bolts I removed. Maybe that’s why some of these bolts make it without failure, just a theory.
anyhow; PM me a cell number and I’ll fire off some good pics of my setup.
I had done an analysis on the people with broken bolts. I think there were mostly 2008-2009 cars.
There was a posting in the main head bolt thread about a revision in 2010.
The 2010 cars may be fine, with a smaller torx hole.
My car was bought by a family member and gifted to me, I know it’s only had fluids changed it’s whole life. I’d have to look at the built date but it’s a “2008” with the smaller T55 headbolts. I just finished up the passenger side and starting on the drivers side now.
I really have no idea how the two compare. I thought the T55 were an upgrade.
Maybe I'm wrong, we have to see them next to each other somehow.
Can each of you guys snap a picture from the side of the bolt head, let's see how fat the material is on the outside.
Then maybe I can paste both photos into one, side by side.
And my 2010 is manufactured in 2009.
Jasonoff the 2010 and 2009 that you're bringing up, were they both made in '09?
Looks like the T60 are concave machined and maybe phosphate zinc coated, vs the T55 have a flat face and are zinc coated. Subjectively seems like the torx cavity is deeper? What do you guys think?
Let's try to review the threads and maybe ID the broken bolts.
My 2010 was made end of sept 2009. Don't know about the 2009. It was probably made in 08.
Here's a side view from mine, the bolts from the 2009 looked identical. Those 08 E63 bolts could have been first rev and look like they made from better material. Who knows.
Amazing how corroded some of these bolts are. I’m going to stick with the MB blue stuff, out if the 20 I replaced only 2 were corroded and nothing like I’ve seen online.
i googles “M156 headbolt size” and cane into this thread but I should mention my car is a W211 E63, not that it should make any difference. My car does have the P030 package but as far as I know the engine is the same as the C63.
ill message Tasos in the morning and ask him what he thinks about the different sizes. I asked him to help with getting my cam phaser timed again and he was going to post up another video for the diy crowd but I figured it out on my own. Headbolts done, cams timed, etc. He did mention that the diamond coated washer does a crappy job of keeping our cars timed and it’s normal to see them out of time.
Anyhow; the job is time consuming but not difficult if you have the proper tools and take your time. Getting the radiator shroud and fan out was the hardest thing. I also replaced my pulleys with Weistec and used ARP cam phaser bolts while I was at it. Only thing I wasn’t 100% on was grease on the headbolts, I used a lot of engine assembly moly grease all over them and I’m wondering if it will help with corrosion or if I’m going to have moly floating by my thermostat lol.
Just chiming in... my 2009 C63 had the T60 bolts. Swapped to the revised bolts. Make sure you changed ALL the lifters if you don’t have the revised ones already. I’m also replacing the right side intake camshaft because of a failed lifter on cyl 8.
My 2009 E63 AMG [built in Jun 2008] needed a T60 bit to remove the head bolts.
I pulled the passenger side today. One bolt has a broken-off head - under the intake camshaft; the one closest to the radiator
My 2009 E63 AMG [built in Jun 2008] needed a T60 bit to remove the head bolts.
I pulled the passenger side today. One bolt has a broken-off head - under the intake camshaft; the one closest to the radiator
07-14-2017, 11:12 PM
