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That's bad. That shouldn't happen! Try turning off the ESP, see if it helps as the ESP ON allows for more clutch slip. But that's a band-aid solution...
Did you change your air filters? Another member had that issue after installing ROW airboxes and it was due to incorrect installation as the box wasn't sealed right and MAFs weren't reading accurate g/s of air leading to incorrect load ratings and transmission was acting wonky.
I do in fact have Weistec high flow filters, but the stock air boxes. I have read that the high flow filters could be causing the problem, but I notified EC of the filters as a mod when I first inquired about the tune.
I do in fact have Weistec high flow filters, but the stock air boxes. I have read that the high flow filters could be causing the problem, but I notified EC of the filters as a mod when I first inquired about the tune.
The filters themselves should not impact it. The incorrect reinstall of the boxes could.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by gtracer
That's bad. That shouldn't happen! Try turning off the ESP, see if it helps as the ESP ON allows for more clutch slip. But that's a band-aid solution...
I don’t think that’s right, where did you get that from?
The transmission mode affects valve body line pressures, with M being the highest. So that definitely has an impact on the firmness of shifts. But I don’t believe that ESP mode makes any difference whatsoever.
I don’t think that’s right, where did you get that from?
The transmission mode affects valve body line pressures, with M being the highest. So that definitely has an impact on the firmness of shifts. But I don’t believe that ESP mode makes any difference whatsoever.
I was told by multiple tuners (before committing to EC) that the high flow filters usually cause problems with these cars and that I should go back to the stock ones or get row air boxes.
I don’t think that’s right, where did you get that from?
The transmission mode affects valve body line pressures, with M being the highest. So that definitely has an impact on the firmness of shifts. But I don’t believe that ESP mode makes any difference whatsoever.
Try it, you'll see. ESP does not only cut power it also slips the clutches to control wheel spin. Comfort Mode with ESP Off, the shifts are crisper and the car revs a bit higher since it cannot slip the clutches as much
Originally Posted by nardobenz
I was told by multiple tuners (before committing to EC) that the high flow filters usually cause problems with these cars and that I should go back to the stock ones or get row air boxes.
I have AFE drop in filters and no issue. Ran the V3, V5(US - which only made 405whp...) and now I have Eurocharged Canada's "V7" and its all good.
With all you guys having issues with your tuning why dont you try a different tuner?
none of my oe tuning files have had issues with shifting or pinging or not making power etc.i was never told to unplug the battery over night and have flashed tunes on the dyno and made power.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by skratch77
With all you guys having issues with your tuning why dont you try a different tuner?
none of my oe tuning files have had issues with shifting or pinging or not making power etc.i was never told to unplug the battery over night and have flashed tunes on the dyno and made power.
I’m about to since nobody at EC feels like replying to my multiple emails requesting an updated tune in exchange for money
and fwiw, the issues we have seen here have been a result of a few things. Poor gas quality, non reset of adaptations (new v7 requires that with vvt tuning etc), and air leaks/ROW problems.
and fwiw, the issues we have seen here have been a result of a few things. Poor gas quality, non reset of adaptations (new v7 requires that with vvt tuning etc), and air leaks/ROW problems.
How should the adaptation reset be done? I searched for the procedure on the forums and tried it, but never noticed a difference. Wondering if the procedure is different with Keyless Go. I haven't installed the V7 tune yet, but want to be prepared.
I was having issues with the stock air boxes with high flow filters. So weird. And I unplugged my battery overnight for 8 hours and it changed nothing.
My dyno results on the V7 tune. I am running ROW boxes with MBH headers. The car feels great on M and C mode but I get a really rocky start in S mode. Feels like I'm a kid that doesn't know how to drive a manual as I'm skipping away in first gear, almost feels like I'm going to stall my automatic car. Anyone else get this problem?
My throttle is super sensitive in S and M, so I do sometimes have trouble controlling a subtle start off but I tend only to struggling after being in my other car all week which is sleepy. In C it’s butter smooth, and I only drive in that mode whilst it’s cold anyway. By the time it’s warm, I’m normally eased in for S or M, if I’m feeling awake enough.
My dyno results on the V7 tune. I am running ROW boxes with MBH headers. The car feels great on M and C mode but I get a really rocky start in S mode. Feels like I'm a kid that doesn't know how to drive a manual as I'm skipping away in first gear, almost feels like I'm going to stall my automatic car. Anyone else get this problem?[/QUOTE
I have all of these same clutch slip issues and loss of power with v7 in comparison to v6...almost 1.5 mph slower in 1/4 mile. Jerry only gave me the option of getting my car on a dyno for him to look at it which is not something I want to do because it won't be cheap and I did not expect to be spending $500 on a update for a tune (dyno time included). Upsetting and I want my money back if they can't fix this.
I was not told by Jerry to unplug the battery. If I have had v7 on the car for two days...should I just unplug the battery or uninstall and reinstall the tune and then unplug.
I think unplugging at this point should suffice. I just installed mine the other day by flashing the ECU, then disconnecting the battery for about 12 hours for good measure. It hasn't been long enough to tell, but I did notice the car shifting a little funny at first, but it seems to be adapting the more I drive. I also notice the same thing happening after changing to each drive mode.
My guess is the the TCU adaptations need to compensate to the engine's power delivery. I highly doubt this is a result of the increased power. My guess is that the throttle mapping for the V7 is more aggressive, therefore the throttle plate opening and engine output at a given throttle position is greater than before. If your TCU was had instead adapted to the previous throttle map and engine output, you can kind of imagine how things can be thrown out of whack.
My dyno results on the V7 tune. I am running ROW boxes with MBH headers. The car feels great on M and C mode but I get a really rocky start in S mode. Feels like I'm a kid that doesn't know how to drive a manual as I'm skipping away in first gear, almost feels like I'm going to stall my automatic car. Anyone else get this problem?
This is strange, I believe some folks posted without headers got closed to 500 hp with the V7 tune whereas you only have close to 470 hp with headers. Hmmm.
This is strange, I believe some folks posted without headers got closed to 500 hp with the V7 tune whereas you only have close to 470 hp with headers. Hmmm.
I've only seen people get close to 500whp on flexfuel, headers, and a tune which ridiculous considering people are getting low to mid 500 whp on a weistec stage 2 blower. My dyno numbers are also uncorrected. I believe that the corrected horsepower is 479whp which would be around 560hp at the crank.
04-29-2018, 06:18 AM
