MB_SD

Hi,
Let me preface that I have searched and did not find the info I was looking for.

I'm a bit confused and looking for advice, Kmac makes 2 different front camber kits, strut mount kit and another is the bushing fit kit. I am looking to remove some of the negative camber from the front end. Which would be the most simple solution to use? I do not track the vehicle, it is my daily.
Strut mount kit
Bush kit
Thanks!

BLKROKT

Bushing kit is easier

K-Mac

For your application- Front bushings !

Besides adjustability for the 1st-time of Camber and Caster they also replace the four highest wearing bushings.

Patented design provides precise single wrench adjustment accurately (underload) direct on alignment rack!

Offering more then 3 times the Camber adjustment range of the inaccurate "one offset position" fluted bolts. While the precise Caster adjustment allows to re establish OEM settings and (ongoing) adjustment to correctly resolve steering pull.

These bushings are also Monoball / 2 axis design without the OEM oil and air voids.

Result is noticeably improved brake and steering response.

Similar kit for the rear providing also Camber adjustment for the 1st time (and extra Toe to compensate for the new rear Camber facility).

Note: The Front Camber and Caster replacement top strut mounts available in stage 2 (Street/Race) or stage 3 (Full Race) are intended for extra adjustment - collision damage or Track days. Allowing up to additional 3 degrees of Negative or 1.5 degrees positive Camber.

MB_SD

Having the front bush kit installed and the shop says your still going to need to do any adjustments with the car off the ground or your going to strip it out.
Thought this was adjustable under direct load?
Kmac?

Mort

It is adjustable under load on a slip plate on an alignment machine.

This is what K-Mac wrote :

Patented design provides precise single wrench adjustment accurately (underload) direct on alignment rack!

K-Mac

Yes it is!

Instructions enclosed with the kit would have explained above.

Have attached below “extra” copies therefore of the “quick reference check list” along with the explanation of how the single wrench system works…. the Mono ball / 2 axis bush design and importantly the need to have tires on slide plates when adjusting (dragging tires sideways).

Background is that prior to the K-MAC patented design breakthrough the last 40 or so years method was each time a alignment setting needed to be adjusted it required the removal of suspension arms, then extraction and reposition each bush to the new required setting - then the reassembly!

This was labor intensive and inaccurate. The K-MAC single wrench adjustment system changed all that. Allowing to adjust on car accurately (under load direct on alignment rack).

Often said the simplest design is the best design. But always new ideas, doing things differently does create controversy. You will find (once you get your head around it) that yes adjustment is just that – simplicity!

MB_SD

I did not get that the alignment rack implied "slip plate" useage

KMAC - I did not get any paper documentation with the hardware. I did bring the quick reference guide with me (because I printed it out) and gave it to the shop only because you posted it in this thread. I could not find it on your website...
Very happy that I can put the car back in spec now, daily driving with -2.22 degrees of camber in hell on wheels so to say
Lastly, I am very gracious of all the help this thread has given me, thank you all

Mag1c Carp3t

I find the plate to be easier. As you can adjust it yourself from over the vehicle just by loosening the 3 bolts and pushing the strut in or out. You can also get both top plate and bushings and set your desired offset to bring the whole wheel in or out. This is advantageous in fitting a wider tire.

Mort

That is what I have now, the top plate. I do have the bushings and will be installing them this winter in the hopes of reducing the front camber from ~ -3* to ~ -1.5*. I can't do it with the top plate because the tire is too close to the fender already so I need to bring the bottom in and not push the top out. I am running a 20x9 ET +34 with a 255/30/20 on the front.