How long does it take to return to normal after tranny fluid flush???
 

Ok, i just read my title and all i can now say is i prolly should have thought that through a LOT more....

anyway, for those of you that have done a complete tranny filter/fluid flush(converter included) how long did it take before the trans stopped being a dick???
almost exactly at 2K rpm it flutters, almost feels like its trying to slip....but if im in manual it doesnt do it at all. If i am holding steady mph and in any gear above 3rd where the rpm is right at 2k i can not only feel it fluttering but i can actually see it on the tach....ive put about 30mi on it since i did it but now im getting nervous as it doesnt take much to Munson a transmission....my temp says im perfect but something just feels off

...and for what its worth i actually double flushed the trans. as in i disconnected both cooler lines from the radiator, hooked up a hose to each and ran hose to its own new 5gal bucket(return line bucket full of new fluid, feed line bucket empty ) started the car, placed in neutral and watched the fluid entering the empty feed line bucket until it ran bright red so i knew i had a decent purge, reconnected the cooler lines, dumped the fluid, changed the filter, refilled trans, brought to temp, topped off fluid, let idle in neutral for 15min at exactly 45*C, drained again, changed filter again, refilled pan, brought back up to 45*C, topped off level and let it idle for around 10min. Fluid looks like Robitussin still but damn i dont like this feeling......chime in gurus

When you say "topped off" did you refill from the bottom using the adapter in the drain plug? Only advice I can give would be to disconnect the battery to reset the adaptions.

I had my tranny fluid change done at the dealership with new filter and everything and I did not notice any difference in shifting. They did drain/refill - no flush machine.

When I did mine it felt no different after doing the flush then before.
Are you saying you took both the cooler feed line and return line off and then used a pump to pump fluid through the cooler? If so the way to do it is just disconnect the return line run the car with new transmission fluid and allow it to pump through the system until it is the clean red colour(or whatever colour your new fluid is)
also when you set your fluid level did you make sure the car was at proper temperature ? I believe it is 80 degrees Celsius

have reset adaptives prolly 5 or 6 times now just to be safe...yes, topped off using the drain nipple. Im hoping that it may be an air pocket or something with the converter that will self correct, the GURU on MB service stated on his flush video that it SHOULD act out of sorts for the first 30-50km but i hate this feeling

yes i took both feed and return line loose...no, i didnt use a pump, i started the car and let the trans push out the old fluid with new fluid
and i said 45*C but you are right, it was 80*C

and your method would only work if you had already changed the pan fluid and were just trying to evacuate the old fluid in the coolers(there are 2 of them by the way), meaning that once you did your method you would have to add fluid back to the pan again to get back to the proper level

also, when i pulled the pan for the first time there were NO MAGNETS ANYWHERE TO BE FOUND!!!!!! I can promise you this though, there are magnets in there now

My first change was at 32k miles and included draining the TC. The oddest thing was for the next 10k miles I had some hard (as in a "slammed into gear under hard acceleration" feeling) thumping shifts occur on an irregular basis, something I had never experienced before, not even once and the exact opposite of what I was expecting. Now thankfully they're gone.

that more closely resembles what i was EXPECTING to deal with, but NOT this slipping feeling...aw HELL naw!!!! but the fact that it ONLY does it at exactly 2K rpm and ONLY does it when in automatic(not manual) is throwing me for a loop.

yes you drain the fluid clean the pan and magnets replace the filter
fill pan with new fluid
disconnect return line near transmission
run car until fluid become red (adding fluid as it comes out if necessary

I did mine at 30k miles and also drained the trans cooler and lines. When filling you then must warm up the trans fully so that oil flows through the cooler....you can feel it with your hand on the cooler as soon as the thermostat opens. You also need a scanner that reads transmission temp so you can fill the trans to the proper level at the exact right temp. I tried my "infrared temp gun" as a substitute but it was not near a accurate as the scanner. I made an improvised jug with a quarter turn valve on the fill hose and got the transmission drain plug fill adapter on Amazon. This is quite a project at home and impossible to do correctly if you don't have a vehicle lift and the scanner to read transmission temp. But the transmission shifted perfectly after I was done. It was much smoother in "C" and very positive with Race Start!

Had mine serviced when I got my car along with everything else. The car was normal when returned.

Did mine a month ago, drained about 8-9Qt and filled with 9Qt, zero issues.

got it figured out!!!!!

when i did all the flushing/filling/draining/refilling etc i did it on my rack, my 4 post rack(key factor) and everything was perfect, when just a trickle is still overflowing replace plug job done....

HOWEVER, i did not take into account that our cars have a built in RAKE to the suspension!!!!!! I thought about it on my drive home yesterday and decided to stop on the side of the road and check...so out came the tape measure and i'll be DAMNED if when on flat level ground the rear of the car is about 3/4" HIGHER than the front....got home, put it back on the 4 post rack, placed a magnetic level on the pan and sure enough the bubble was pegged to the rear!!!!! Pulled the drain plug and just a trickle of fluid was running out so i reinstalled the plug, per spec the level is PERFECT!!!!

moved it over to my 2 post lift and raised up to height, placed level back on pan and BOOM, dead level.....with car running i pulled the drain plug and NOTHING came out. added 1/2qt of fluid, pulled hose, NOTHING came out....added another 1/2qt of fluid, pulled hose and just a trickle of fluid was running so i pulled nipple, installed plug and dropped the car to the ground......drove out of the shop and down the road and PROBLEMS HAVE DISAPPEARED!!!!..shifts are noticeably different but in good way and the difference in performance is remarkable

my advice to everyone else when changing their fluids is to place a magnetic level on the tranny pan before you begin(you can still do this with jack stands no problem, just adjust the stand heights until you get a level pan)....i have been doing mechanic work for 25yrs and have NEVER considered that there could be that much of a difference in service outcome depending solely on which type of rack i was using, and as you can read it DID make THAT much of a difference, a full quart low on fluid after it looked perfect before with the ONLY difference being the type of rack and the pan being dead level.

Congrats on solving it. I bought this for that reason. Mine was not perfectly level either as I did it outside and the parking spot had a bit of an incline, but the measure tool horizontal level was still within the double lines on all sides so no issues.