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Urgent!! Light white smoke coming from Engine Bay (Driver Side)
Hello everyone,
I am in dire need of help!
Upon waiting for my OBD2 in the mail to check the CEL that just came on recently on
I drove the car for a block or 2 and I noticed there was white smoke coming from the engine side.
I popped the hood and checked there is oil burning smell coming from the side of the engine.
I did a bit of research and it seems like a valve cover gasket leak.
There seems to be fresh/ wet oil on the side of the engine and only occurs once the car is hot .
There is no sweet smell and no coolant leak/ low light.
The Coolant tank is full and no leaks at all.
I just recently had an oil overfill problem.
The dealer I was filled at least a quart over and that probably caused the valve cover gasket leak or made it come sooner.
Can anyone explain or clarify the symptoms of valve cover gasket leaks and how to diagnose and how to DIY and get started on this problem.
Maybe the CEL light is also related to this problem
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Instead of continuing to drive a car with a CEL and probably doing further damage, why don't you just bring it back to the dealer and tell them to fix whatever it is that they fuked up.
Try taking a picture of where the smoke is coming from and the wet/leaking fluids
I will post a picture soon but its right where the bolts are on the driver side of the engine bay.
My research tells me its the valve cover gasket. Being its about 100k+ miles and hasn't been replaced. It seems like that's the only place fluids could be coming from. No leaks show from hoses but I will take more pictures soon to show.
Instead of continuing to drive a car with a CEL and probably doing further damage, why don't you just bring it back to the dealer and tell them to fix whatever it is that they fuked up.
Not continuing to drive it, just moved the car from alternate side parking and noticed the CEL came on and smoke appeared from engine bay right side. The CEL light will be diagnosed asap once the OBD comes in the mail. Will keep ya'll updated
Get a mirror and a flashlight and start searching for dried oil in the engine bay or look for traces of dried or burnt oil on the headers or exhaust. When I replaced my head bolts, I installed the VCG slightly outside of the groove, and the same thing you're describing happened to me.
Most likely the damn bolt near the corner of the suspension turret/firewall where there is next to zero space to tighten it with your fingers. I've lost two sockets down there over the last 12 months and even replaced the gasket...I just have no game when it comes to tightening that bolt, so mine always leaks and smells.
I just say "because racecar" and call it a day now
Most likely the damn bolt near the corner of the suspension turret/firewall where there is next to zero space to tighten it with your fingers. I've lost two sockets down there over the last 12 months and even replaced the gasket...I just have no game when it comes to tightening that bolt, so mine always leaks and smells.
I just say "because racecar" and call it a day now
OK guys first off thanks for taking the time to read and reply,
I just found out what the CEL was with the OBD2 and its showing the code P0171.
Its saying there is a weak vacuum seal / leak or running weak which would explain the Valve Cover Gasket due to it leaking.
Well Im guessing its either the valve cover gasket or the bolt is loose which is highly unlikely because no one has touched it ever.
Yup and you were correct being very little room in that area but I'm going to order the VCG in advance since its a 100K miles and about time it needs to be changed anyways.
Hope this solves the CEL problem.
Also I need to get an inspection soon. Can I still pass inspection with a CEL light on or should I fix this problem and clear the light for good first?
So I decided to take a look and take a few pictures first.
It definitely looks like the "bolts" or the gasket area is leaking.
Strangely its leaking only around the bolts but BOTH sides driver and passenger side.
Its more liquid from the bolts than the gasket area.
This has caused the CEL light to come on with "low fuel pressure". Will tightening these bolts fix the low pressure problem?
SOMEONE PLEASE HELP with this, this is the first time I've ever done a project like this and I would like some encouragement if possible.
Instructions would be fine too
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Honestly it’s impossible to tell what’s going on there without getting a better look at the area. For starters how about taking off the engine cover and airboxes and associated ducting so you can get a better look at whatever is going on.
Honestly it’s impossible to tell what’s going on there without getting a better look at the area. For starters how about taking off the engine cover and airboxes and associated ducting so you can get a better look at whatever is going on.
I'll do just that tomorrow and take a clearer look and post some results when I do. It sure looks to me (unfortuately I didnt take a pic of it then) It was definitely coming from the bolts.
I had a valve cover gasket leak about 2 months ago. The oil was leaking down to the exhaust and was burning there, causing the white smoke.
It is easy to do it yourself, but you need a good toolbox as the screw near the suspension tower has limited access.
But I don't think this leak will generate a CEL as there are no sensor to detect that leak. I had no CEL when my gasket was leaking.
Based on your photos, there is obviously oil or fluid on your exhaust manifold, and also on the valve cover screws. If you removed the intake box (just 1 screw) you could have full view on the cover and find the source of this leak.
i have ALL the right tools and tightening some of the lower valve cover bolts is STILL damn near impossible unless you get creative...the best remedy that i have found is to buy a set of 1/2" drive torx sockets(youll need them anyway)...by getting the 1/2" drive instead of the 3/8" drive set the overall length of the bit/socket will be perfect as it will protrude past the lower edge of the valve cover by about 3/4"....you STILL wont be able to get a ratchet in there due to space and if you try i promise you will be side loading the bit/socket and end up hogging out the bolt....what i do instead is to hold the bit/socket in place with one hand and then loosen/tighten the bolt by grabbing the end of the socket with a pair of Channel Lock pliers....you can get as much or as little leverage as you want and it works every time for me, no more fighting with wobbles and angles and hogging out bolt heads
I just found out what the CEL was with the OBD2 and its showing the code P0171. Its saying there is a weak vacuum seal / leak or running weak . . . .
Originally Posted by victorjackie
UPDATE
This has caused the CEL light to come on with "low fuel pressure".
Do you really have TWO problems, or do you just need to sit down and take a deep breath?
Re inspection with a CEL lit up: Laws vary depending on where you live. Call one of the local inspection spots - they can tell you whether you can still pass with a CEL on.
You just reminded me that I need to order a replacement of the first bit wrench that I lost down there last December trying to do the same bolt. I just ordered one now online
Originally Posted by jptaylor
i have ALL the right tools and tightening some of the lower valve cover bolts is STILL damn near impossible unless you get creative...the best remedy that i have found is to buy a set of 1/2" drive torx sockets(youll need them anyway)...by getting the 1/2" drive instead of the 3/8" drive set the overall length of the bit/socket will be perfect as it will protrude past the lower edge of the valve cover by about 3/4"....you STILL wont be able to get a ratchet in there due to space and if you try i promise you will be side loading the bit/socket and end up hogging out the bolt....what i do instead is to hold the bit/socket in place with one hand and then loosen/tighten the bolt by grabbing the end of the socket with a pair of Channel Lock pliers....you can get as much or as little leverage as you want and it works every time for me, no more fighting with wobbles and angles and hogging out bolt heads
This is exactly what I resorted to, but it's still not enough to torque the bolt down properly for a perfect seal.
You just reminded me that I need to order a replacement of the first bit wrench that I lost down there last December trying to do the same bolt. I just ordered one now online
This is exactly what I resorted to, but it's still not enough to torque the bolt down properly for a perfect seal.
if you can't get enough torque with that socket and a 10" pair of channel locks you have got other issues
the aluminum valve covers should NOT be over torqued. you will snap your mounts off. they are meant to be torqued in a even pattern to a specific torque.
the updated black plastic valve covers have a stopper so they can be torqued down.
Just got the time to manage to do the passenger side VCG (They mention its the easier side)
While still being very annoying and hard to reach(especially the lower bolts by the back, its done.
While taking out the old gasket from the valve. it cracked into many little pieces right away, like sand or hard plastic.
It was clearly the leaking source. Also under the valve cover was leaking into the exhaust manifold, exactly the way you guys described it.
I'm going to work on the driver side tomorrow, they mentioned theirs an extra step. Removing the fuel line, everything else is about the same I'm guessing, still ridiculously hard to access those bolts and lots of maneuvering around it.
I'm pretty sure this should solve the smoking problem.
Any tips and advice for the driver side would be nice before tackling it tomorrow.
Thanks again doods
There are many reasona why engine exhausts with white smoke
A. Bad atomization of injector B. Water in cylinder or diesel C. Some cylinder doesn't workwhen operating at low speedon cold day D. Incorrect fuel injection advance angle
I got the problem with my yuchai engine before and I got this from supplier:
Check the working conditions; replace theexcessive blow -by if necessary. Checkdiesel, if there is water in it,replace it,Otherwise, check for damage of the cylinder head parts which may cause waterleak, replace the damaged ones. Close theshutter door when the ambient temperatureis low, and make the operating temperature rise quickly to avoid running long timeat low temperature. Check and adjust fuelinjection advance angle.
11-24-2017, 01:49 PM
Urgent!! Light white smoke coming from Engine Bay (Driver Side)
