w204 vs w212 HK stereo

Any info appreciated.
Couldn't find out much at the oe parts sites alone but found a ton of parts posted on ebay that helped some. Best I can tell, other than the sub mounting plate(and maybe the sub size), all else appear identical with different 'original' amp part #s(several for each) that now cross reference to a single reman'd sku (212-900-71-08-80) that was originally referenced to the w212 only(as best I could tell?) - the amps definitely retrofit and appear identical so 'maybe' some repair/upgrade from Harman? The difference in sound appears amp related to me and is significantly better on the w212 (an mp3 via bt on his smoked a cd on mine), that on the next decent weather day, gonna talk him in to doing a swap to compare.
Couldn't find out much at the oe parts sites alone but found a ton of parts posted on ebay that helped some. Best I can tell, other than the sub mounting plate(and maybe the sub size), all else appear identical with different 'original' amp part #s(several for each) that now cross reference to a single reman'd sku (212-900-71-08-80) that was originally referenced to the w212 only(as best I could tell?) - the amps definitely retrofit and appear identical so 'maybe' some repair/upgrade from Harman? The difference in sound appears amp related to me and is significantly better on the w212 (an mp3 via bt on his smoked a cd on mine), that on the next decent weather day, gonna talk him in to doing a swap to compare.
- Add some real bass. Even an 8" sub in the trunk makes a huge difference on virtually any automotive audio system that lacks true bass (as this one does). Solid tight bass takes away the tinny, harsh quality of the mid-highs to highs. It'll sound smoother and more detailed.
- Add some midrange through equalization while leaving the highs alone.
- Use quality source material, minimum 256kbps AAC or mp3. Of course lossless is better. Quite a few friends listen to electronic music as I do - everyone can tell the difference between 320kbps mp3 and FLAC or Apple Lossless on the HK with these three improvements.
2x 80mm midrange in front doors that C Class does not have.
2x independent 43mm tweeter on rear door, C Class has them coaxial.
Amp in rear has an extra 160watts booster for total of 610 watts vs 450 watts
14 speaker vs 8 speaker system.

Last edited by xEryx; Feb 8, 2018 at 12:01 PM.
I figured I'd probably have to replace the sub regardless and while researching this, impulse bought a pioneer 8" shallow mount that claims 'free air' - have fab'd a few stealth subs but never set-up a free-air so looking forward to giving it a shot. 'If' the 212 amp is more powerful, doubt it'd be enough to power it but still worth a shot to see if there's any improvement at all - will post results when I do.
Thanks to all that that replied - my problem is not modding a factory system but knowing when to stop
Just hoping for a decent/quicker fix so I can spend more time on performance.






