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Steering Wheel Vibration at 70+ ( FIXED )
Hey guys,
So this is an on going issue ive had for the past two years. Been hunting and trying to figure out whats causing the car's steering wheel and seats to shake. At 67 Mph there's no signs of vibration as soon as it hits 69-70 steering wheel shakes and the passenger seat has a noticeable shake to it as well. This last year i replaced Engine Mounts & Transmission mounts about 3k miles ago I just replaced the front rotors and pads. Just installed new rear tires 50 miles ago Front tires are still from when i got the car and had them re balanced about 14k miles on them ( Eagle LS2 ). I'm about to buy new front tires because i've read many bad reviews on these tires. But before i throw more money away trying to fix this steering wheel shaking issue. I asked discount tire to check if my rims are bent and they said they aren't but theirs a slight hop whatever that means. But not enough to cause shaking. Is there anything else i should be looking at? I've tightened almost all suspension bolts and the bushings don't look bad the car has 72k miles on it now. What should i take a look into flex discs do they go bad? Should i just take it to Mercedes and get it diagnosed? Thanks any input will help |
A slight hop? Is there a bubble in the tire or something?
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Originally Posted by G_Money
(Post 7644148)
A slight hop? Is there a bubble in the tire or something?
i didn't understand what he said when he said slight hop he wasn't well informed |
The words slight hop and won't cause a vibration seem to conflict. I am guessing it means when you look at it on the balancer, it is in balance but moves up and down vertically as it rotates which with the cars weight on it probably means it won't have much affect, but in any case, eagle ls 2's are not very good tires, if they are worn then get rid of them.
Generally a vibration in the steering wheel is front tires seat vibration is the rears or driveline, but the fronts can also vibrate the seats. If you already did rotors then they are likely within spec for balance so I would have to think front tires if coming through the steering wheel. If you are after the price point of the Eagles, the Pirelli P Zero Nero GT is a much better tire for the same price point. |
Originally Posted by roadkillrob
(Post 7644208)
The words slight hop and won't cause a vibration seem to conflict. I am guessing it means when you look at it on the balancer, it is in balance but moves up and down vertically as it rotates which with the cars weight on it probably means it won't have much affect, but in any case, eagle ls 2's are not very good tires, if they are worn then get rid of them.
Generally a vibration in the steering wheel is front tires seat vibration is the rears or driveline, but the fronts can also vibrate the seats. If you already did rotors then they are likely within spec for balance so I would have to think front tires if coming through the steering wheel. If you are after the price point of the Eagles, the Pirelli P Zero Nero GT is a much better tire for the same price point. I will get them installed asap when they get here and update. I like driving the car but i don't drive it long distances because of the shaking and maybe because i get 8mpg. Im going to remove all weights before i go to discount tire to get new tires installed and clean the rims. |
Would say the slight hop is the issue. Either bad tires or bad wheel. With today's modern cars with thin sidewall tires, vibration happens more frequently. I have very sensitive hands and can pick up the slightest vibration or pull in my steering wheel. From by past cars, 8 Porsche 911, BMW 335i, 535i, 750i, MB C63, G55, Ghibli all the vibrations came from tires or wheels. All been fixable. Take your car to have a "Road Force" tire balance machine. If they can balance your wheels and tires then you have another issue but at least you can eliminate tires and wheels
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how many miles on the car ? I had a vibration in the seat that was RPM dependent but turned out to be the Driveshaft couplers.
Road force is worth doing as well- I'm taking my car in Friday...... |
Originally Posted by Texas E63
(Post 7644340)
how many miles on the car ? I had a vibration in the seat that was RPM dependent but turned out to be the Driveshaft couplers.
Road force is worth doing as well- I'm taking my car in Friday...... 72k i asked discount tire if they road forced balanced the tires they said yes.. But i doubt it |
Try a different tire shop for tire balancing. I've only had luck with two tire places where I live (out of trying more than 5) that can actually properly balance a tire, road force machine or not. Quality balancing machines are a plus, someone who knows how to actually use them/calibrate them is more important. I've also found some tire places have a kind of "good enough" attitude with balancing; "nobody is going to go that fast", so they're decently balanced up to certain speeds and no good after that.
Also, do you have aftermarket wheels? Sometimes the incorrect type of bolts are used (OEM ball seat on cone seat wheels, vice versa) Do you run spacers? Are the wheel bearings in good shape? |
Are you rims possibly bent? I mean you've exhausted everything else.
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Originally Posted by Funkwagen
(Post 7644567)
Try a different tire shop for tire balancing. I've only had luck with two tire places where I live (out of trying more than 5) that can actually properly balance a tire, road force machine or not. Quality balancing machines are a plus, someone who knows how to actually use them/calibrate them is more important. I've also found some tire places have a kind of "good enough" attitude with balancing; "nobody is going to go that fast", so they're decently balanced up to certain speeds and no good after that.
Also, do you have aftermarket wheels? Sometimes the incorrect type of bolts are used (OEM ball seat on cone seat wheels, vice versa) Do you run spacers? Are the wheel bearings in good shape? I checked front wheel bearings for play many times solid as a rock. I will check rears today for play as well my new tires come tomorrow. I run stock rims and bolts no wheel spacers. |
Originally Posted by Yuille36
(Post 7644580)
Are you rims possibly bent? I mean you've exhausted everything else.
Would a worn flex disc cause vibrations at 70+ or at all speeds? |
Originally Posted by Black_Mercedes
(Post 7644603)
I checked front wheel bearings for play many times solid as a rock. I will check rears today for play as well my new tires come tomorrow. I run stock rims and bolts no wheel spacers.
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Originally Posted by Funkwagen
(Post 7644607)
Interesting. Well the issue definitely lies with the front wheels since you feel it most in the steering wheel. I looked up some reviews on your current tires and they don't review that well, including a few complaints of them losing their balance as they wear. If there's nothing wrong with the bearings, and the rims aren't out of round, I'd be looking at replacing the tires next
My rears have been replaced with a different brand. I get my new front tires tomorrow not eagle ls2s Thanks for the help |
I doubt Discount tire is using a Hunter RF setup - they tend to use the 9200's...or best case an old 9700....
here's what you need - Hunter also has a locator https://fastequipment.net/products/h...heel-balancer/ http://www.hunter.com/wheel-balancers/road-force-elite |
My car developed a vibration first past 90 mph then quickly it got lower until it was bad at 70 steering wheel vibration and noticeable interior vibration as well. Leading up to it a clunking sound could be heard from time to time going over certain bumps at certain angles . Was my passenger thrust arm. |
There’s a possibility you may the slightest flat spot in one or both of your front wheels. I have a spot in my Lexus that I need to have rolled out. It shows around 75ish too. I would thoroughly have a wheel special inspect them. Should be about a 100 bucks to heat roll the flat area out. |
Just had all new tires put on yesterday. Vibration is still there. But not as bad as before. Car now pulls to the right address after new front tires. Discount tire said my front tires had slight cupping on the inside. I kept my old front tires because they are still like new. I will check trust arms how would I check for play in them? I was going to replace front sway bar bushings. Because they aren't that much $$$.
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https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...93c703a4a.jpeg
Originally Posted by Black_Mercedes
(Post 7646581)
Just had all new tires put on yesterday. Vibration is still there. But not as bad as before. Car now pulls to the right address after new front tires. Discount tire said my front tires had slight cupping on the inside. I kept my old front tires because they are still like new. I will check trust arms how would I check for play in them? I was going to replace front sway bar bushings. Because they aren't that much $$$.
to check jack up the car so the suspension can move easier then from under the car try applying movement to the suspension arms. The thrust arm is the front arm that mounts on the top in relation to the other arm. Found a picture with an arrow pointing the thrust arm out. |
Did u replace upper and lower or just the upper ones? I'll order a set I'll take a picture of mine on Monday I think I saw a slight crack but nothing bad. Maybe I'll take them off and check for play
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Just the thrust arms the rest where all right still although I haven’t replaced them yet just purchased them... I may end up purchasing new lowers as well while I am under there get it all refreshed |
Looking up part numbers are they the same as the w203s? It looks like all part number are all combined? I'll order a set tomorrow.
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Originally Posted by Black_Mercedes
(Post 7644131)
Hey guys,
So this is an on going issue ive had for the past two years. Been hunting and trying to figure out whats causing the car's steering wheel and seats to shake. At 67 Mph there's no signs of vibration as soon as it hits 69-70 steering wheel shakes and the passenger seat has a noticeable shake to it as well. This last year i replaced Engine Mounts & Transmission mounts about 3k miles ago I just replaced the front rotors and pads. Just installed new rear tires 50 miles ago Front tires are still from when i got the car and had them re balanced about 14k miles on them ( Eagle LS2 ). I'm about to buy new front tires because i've read many bad reviews on these tires. But before i throw more money away trying to fix this steering wheel shaking issue. I asked discount tire to check if my rims are bent and they said they aren't but theirs a slight hop whatever that means. But not enough to cause shaking. Is there anything else i should be looking at? I've tightened almost all suspension bolts and the bushings don't look bad the car has 72k miles on it now. What should i take a look into flex discs do they go bad? Should i just take it to Mercedes and get it diagnosed? Thanks any input will help your hub is rusted most likely and the rim can’t catch to the surface perfectly. Get sand paper or a wire brush clean it |
Originally Posted by alenpepic
(Post 7647058)
your hub is rusted most likely and the rim can’t catch to the surface perfectly. Get sand paper or a wire brush clean it |
Any chance that someone installed the camber/caster bolts and did not correctly seat both tabs in the slots? The pic above shows the thrust arm affecting caster. The camber arm is at 6 o’clock position. Are these oem or the Mercedes camber/caster bolts? If they are there is a line on the bolt head and it needs be to in line with the arms. Just a thought. |
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