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PROBLEM 2008 w204 c63 I have had multiple messages come up about ABS and ESP inoperative along with Cruise control inoperative and the car would lose power steering and shift rough, along with this every light possible will light up on the dash and the speedometer would stop working. I scanned the car and got a whole grocery list of fault codes some examples: 5629, 5130, 5130, 5506, 5542 and more.
Along with this the car does not read
MILEAGE SO DO NO DRIVE TOO MUCH
DIAGNOSING This issue would happen about 4 out of 10 drives and when it did happen it could take anywhere from 0-30 miles for the lights to turn on, I looked into forums and everyone with a similar issue would say it was a wheel speed sensor. Many of the forums have no real out come, the original poster would just say they would try a wheels speed sensor and never respond. With this I decided to plug my scanner in and read live data from my wheel speed sensors, all wheel speed sensors worked, but when the ABS UNAVAILABLE problem occurred the scanner would get kicked out and I would not be able to enter the ESP module with the scanner. Anyways I took a wheel speed sensor from my other car to test this and still no luck. With this and other problems like rough shifts and no power steering I decided it would be the ABS module. So I started to search for ABS modules and could not find anything available new or used, so my only option was to send it to a repair shop. I found a company in the UK called ECU TESTING and sent them my module. I am from California, USA so shipping cost me $210 usd and the repair was $370 usd. They had tested it and it came back normal but I still asked them to go ahead and repair all the common failures. From shipping it out it took 5 days to get it back. I installed it and the problem did not go away. This time I went to a well known euro shop to get it diagnosed, they concluded it to be the ABS module. All in all the rapair bill was $3,700 however no new ABS modules were available in the world. So I sent the module back to the UK to get warrantied. ECU TESTING paid for everything and once I got the module back I installed it. After installation it worked for 2 weeks then the problem came back. I decided to buy a used module even though I had read forums that said it could not be done as the modules coded VIN could not be removed. Through out the whole world there was only 2 modules available, so for the third try I ordered a Module all the way from Dubai, after tax it came out to $738 usd. I received the module and installed it. Everything was going good until I started the car and still had the problem.
SOLUTION After having installed the used module I scanned the car for codes and found one about the ESP module not having the right VIN. I was able to enter the module with the scan tool and rewrite the VIN, I cleared the codes and turned the car on, after 7 months problem finally solved.
PART# preface lift A 037 545 63 32
THOUGHTS If you have the same issues with the same codes as me I would focus on the ABS module. Even though the repairs on my module done by ECU TESTING did not 100% work I would recommend them as they have very good customer service, pricing, and warranties their work along with giving me a refund after the warranty did not work. If you are thinking of repairing your MODULE I would recommend trying to find a used one as it might be cheaper.
INSTALLATION First things first you have to disconnect the battery.
Remove brake fluid from reservoir. Or fluid will spill everywhere
Remove beauty cover from ABS PLUG
Undo connection to ABS module, this is tricky as it is a special plug that uses a lever to lock it in. push the bottom tab upwards and pull lever up PHOTO AVAILABLE
Remove Driver side wheel and wheel wells.
after removing these there is a Male torx bolt holding the ABS module to the bracket, remove it.
UNDO and set aside brake lines from the module one by one 11mm and 12mm wrench. TO AVOID SPILLS I recommend putting a glove over the connector and a towel in the plug to avoid fluid from ruining connections. Also stuff gaps around the module with rags. When removing brake lines, cover them with a cut off tip of a glove and secure the glove with a zip tie to prevent spillage.
Install new module and reinstall brake lines, fill brake fluid reservoir, install wheel wells and wheel.
IMPORTANT Take car to mechanic as proper bleeding of the module has to be done
CODING If you do not own a scanner you can take your car to a mechanic for this
SELF CODING some photos available. All scanners are not the same but the general principle should apply. Go to systems, here there should be a list of modules such as ECU, TCU and others. SELECT ESP, from there search through the coding options, for me it was labeled as (Setting/Changeover or Initial Startup). From here the coding screen should show up. You should be able to see the modules current VIN and allow you to write your VIN, write your VIN and select write coding. Now you can clear all engine and module codes and you’re done.
Thank you for that it’s exactly what’s going on with my car but I noticed when I start the car and press the ESP sport off button and it’ll show the big yellow triangle on the dash and drove it around no lights shows up ever so I’ve been using it like that until I get it looked at but is it bad to drive around with the ESP off?
This issue can be caused by several factors even compounding intermittent factors.
Sometimes it's actually a component that the ESP module communicates with like a wheel speed sensor, or there's a com issue and the wheel speed sensor fault is a false negative.
Unfortunately, the message on the dash is generic and the protection (limp mode) protocol is identical for ALL the causes.
One of the main causes for intermittent behaviour is the PCB inside the ESP module. It sits in an extremely harsh environment, with heat and vibration being the 2 most violent. Someone also proved it can sometimes build up a static charge causing interference. There's so many fkn threads on this now because nobody searches and just creates s new one (hence the "check your wheel speed sensor" replies).
I personally solved my problem by sending my ESP module away to be repaired. I could however always connect to my module and scan codes or view data so your particular issue seems fairly unique.
Thank you for that it’s exactly what’s going on with my car but I noticed when I start the car and press the ESP sport off button and it’ll show the big yellow triangle on the dash and drove it around no lights shows up ever so I’ve been using it like that until I get it looked at but is it bad to drive around with the ESP off?
If all issues go away with ESP off including the loss of power steering then I assume you could keep driving. However in my case I could not do that. Also my car was not reading the miles I drove it while the problem was present. I would not continue driving with ESP turned off as that just turns off traction control which increases the chances of a collision.
This issue can be caused by several factors even compounding intermittent factors.
Sometimes it's actually a component that the ESP module communicates with like a wheel speed sensor, or there's a com issue and the wheel speed sensor fault is a false negative.
Unfortunately, the message on the dash is generic and the protection (limp mode) protocol is identical for ALL the causes.
One of the main causes for intermittent behaviour is the PCB inside the ESP module. It sits in an extremely harsh environment, with heat and vibration being the 2 most violent. Someone also proved it can sometimes build up a static charge causing interference. There's so many fkn threads on this now because nobody searches and just creates s new one (hence the "check your wheel speed sensor" replies).
I personally solved my problem by sending my ESP module away to be repaired. I could however always connect to my module and scan codes or view data so your particular issue seems fairly unique.
That’s why I waited to post a full reply with answer since most did not share the resolution, having the car scanned can save you from throwing wheelI speed sensors. I noticed that not all abs module issues are the same as some people are able to get theirs rebuilt while the issue with mine could not be resolved after 2 repairs.
PROBLEM 2008 w204 c63 I have had multiple messages come up about ABS and ESP inoperative along with Cruise control inoperative and the car would lose power steering and shift rough, along with this every light possible will light up on the dash and the speedometer would stop working. I scanned the car and got a whole grocery list of fault codes some examples: 5629, 5130, 5130, 5506, 5542 and more.
Along with this the car does not read
MILEAGE SO DO NO DRIVE TOO MUCH
DIAGNOSING This issue would happen about 4 out of 10 drives and when it did happen it could take anywhere from 0-30 miles for the lights to turn on, I looked into forums and everyone with a similar issue would say it was a wheel speed sensor. Many of the forums have no real out come, the original poster would just say they would try a wheels speed sensor and never respond. With this I decided to plug my scanner in and read live data from my wheel speed sensors, all wheel speed sensors worked, but when the ABS UNAVAILABLE problem occurred the scanner would get kicked out and I would not be able to enter the ESP module with the scanner. Anyways I took a wheel speed sensor from my other car to test this and still no luck. With this and other problems like rough shifts and no power steering I decided it would be the ABS module. So I started to search for ABS modules and could not find anything available new or used, so my only option was to send it to a repair shop. I found a company in the UK called ECU TESTING and sent them my module. I am from California, USA so shipping cost me $210 usd and the repair was $370 usd. They had tested it and it came back normal but I still asked them to go ahead and repair all the common failures. From shipping it out it took 5 days to get it back. I installed it and the problem did not go away. This time I went to a well known euro shop to get it diagnosed, they concluded it to be the ABS module. All in all the rapair bill was $3,700 however no new ABS modules were available in the world. So I sent the module back to the UK to get warrantied. ECU TESTING paid for everything and once I got the module back I installed it. After installation it worked for 2 weeks then the problem came back. I decided to buy a used module even though I had read forums that said it could not be done as the modules coded VIN could not be removed. Through out the whole world there was only 2 modules available, so for the third try I ordered a Module all the way from Dubai, after tax it came out to $738 usd. I received the module and installed it. Everything was going good until I started the car and still had the problem.
SOLUTION After having installed the used module I scanned the car for codes and found one about the ESP module not having the right VIN. I was able to enter the module with the scan tool and rewrite the VIN, I cleared the codes and turned the car on, after 7 months problem finally solved.
PART# preface lift A 037 545 63 32
THOUGHTS If you have the same issues with the same codes as me I would focus on the ABS module. Even though the repairs on my module done by ECU TESTING did not 100% work I would recommend them as they have very good customer service, pricing, and warranties their work along with giving me a refund after the warranty did not work. If you are thinking of repairing your MODULE I would recommend trying to find a used one as it might be cheaper.
INSTALLATION First things first you have to disconnect the battery.
Remove brake fluid from reservoir. Or fluid will spill everywhere
Remove beauty cover from ABS PLUG
Undo connection to ABS module, this is tricky as it is a special plug that uses a lever to lock it in. push the bottom tab upwards and pull lever up PHOTO AVAILABLE
Remove Driver side wheel and wheel wells.
after removing these there is a Male torx bolt holding the ABS module to the bracket, remove it.
UNDO and set aside brake lines from the module one by one 11mm and 12mm wrench. TO AVOID SPILLS I recommend putting a glove over the connector and a towel in the plug to avoid fluid from ruining connections. Also stuff gaps around the module with rags. When removing brake lines, cover them with a cut off tip of a glove and secure the glove with a zip tie to prevent spillage.
Install new module and reinstall brake lines, fill brake fluid reservoir, install wheel wells and wheel.
IMPORTANT Take car to mechanic as proper bleeding of the module has to be done
CODING If you do not own a scanner you can take your car to a mechanic for this
SELF CODING some photos available. All scanners are not the same but the general principle should apply. Go to systems, here there should be a list of modules such as ECU, TCU and others. SELECT ESP, from there search through the coding options, for me it was labeled as (Setting/Changeover or Initial Startup). From here the coding screen should show up. You should be able to see the modules current VIN and allow you to write your VIN, write your VIN and select write coding. Now you can clear all engine and module codes and you’re done.
hi. I have the same issue ATM. Can’t find the part anywhere in the uk and have tried Ecu testing but then refunded as it didn’t fix the issue. Tried one more firm and they refunded also as it still wasn’t working. Where in Dubai did you find the part? Do you have a link for them?
hi. I have the same issue ATM. Can’t find the part anywhere in the uk and have tried Ecu testing but then refunded as it didn’t fix the issue. Tried one more firm and they refunded also as it still wasn’t working. Where in Dubai did you find the part? Do you have a link for them?
I found mine through EBay, it took about two months of searching websites including EBay before I found a module for a prefecelift C63, you could also go on sites like Craigslist or Facebook Market Place (here in the USA) and find someone parting out a car and ask for the module.
I found mine through EBay, it took about two months of searching websites including EBay before I found a module for a prefecelift C63, you could also go on sites like Craigslist or Facebook Market Place (here in the USA) and find someone parting out a car and ask for the module.
hi buddy. I’ve been searching and found 1 in Dubai via Facebook marketplace place but he is not offering any guarantee. So I spoke to Mercedes and they don’t make the ones with our part numbers А 037 545 63 32
anymore. They have a new ones which supersede ours with different part number. I understand these need coding but with a different part number will coding be an issue? Any idea or is it best to let Mercedes replace and code it
hi buddy. I’ve been searching and found 1 in Dubai via Facebook marketplace place but he is not offering any guarantee. So I spoke to Mercedes and they don’t make the ones with our part numbers А 037 545 63 32
anymore. They have a new ones which supersede ours with different part number. I understand these need coding but with a different part number will coding be an issue? Any idea or is it best to let Mercedes replace and code it
Hi, I am not sure if different part numbers would affect anything, I stuck with the same part number to be safe. The used module I bought did not have guarantee. I couldn’t find any new modules at the time as they were no longer produced as I was told. If you don’t mind the money then new and installed by dealer would be the way to go, I was quoted $3,700USD parts and labor from a Euro mechanic. Just up to how much you prefer to spend.
Hi, I am not sure if different part numbers would affect anything, I stuck with the same part number to be safe. The used module I bought did not have guarantee. I couldn’t find any new modules at the time as they were no longer produced as I was told. If you don’t mind the money then new and installed by dealer would be the way to go, I was quoted $3,700USD parts and labor from a Euro mechanic. Just up to how much you prefer to spend.
that’s what I’m trying to decide now. I’m assuming you didn’t remove the hydraulic pump and only replaced the control unit like myself. Did it need bleeding too once the new control unit was installed? I’ve read it only needs installing and coding 1 hour labour from Mercedes with No need to bleed. But when I spoke to Mercedes they have quoted me 3 hours work with bleeding included.
also any idea if it’s just one go you get on coding?
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