I took delivery of a new C63S a month ago, a bit disappointed with the switchable exhaust noise compared to others I’ve heard and it was certainty quieter than the standard system on my previous W205 C63 and since I had the rusty turbos replaced it has gone even worse, there is very little difference between on and off when engine is cold and no difference whatsoever when hot, throttle response is not as ‘sharp’ the car feels like it’s struggling for performance, I presume they did a software adjustment, before I get back to the dealers are there any experts on here that could explain what’s gone on and point me in the right direction.

The car has only done 400 miles, it’s not run in yet so I don’t want to give the full beans, it went in for turbo replacement purely for cosmetic reasons, I’m beginning to wish I hadn’t had it done, without doubt it is certainly quieter and feels down on low revs power, I’m assuming if they did something to the software it was the very latest version.

Yes you’re right and I fully agree, but it definitely feels different after the turbo change, as suggested I’ll wait for the ECU to adapt and take it from there and thank you guys for your response.

The new one has always been quieter than my previous non perf exhaust W205 C63 from day day one, which was hilariously loud on cold start up but it’s definitely quieter now, there is a difference on and off when cold but non at all when hot in comfort, when I hear you saying yours is ‘roaring like a t rex’, mine is more like a purring lion, I was expecting more from the perf exhaust to be honest from day one.

It will pop and bang on the overrun in sport plus exactly the same as my old non perf one, same volume, same sound, no difference whatsoever, I expected more after reading other people’s reports on this system, it’s the fact that it doesn’t make the slightest difference in comfort mode on tick-over which suggests to me something is not right, it might change with use, I’ve also noticed there is a slight rattle from the rear at about 2000 revs when stationary, I’ve been in touch with the dealer and I’m waiting for their response.

The snap, crackle, and pops overrun is only programmed in Sport+ and Race mode. Comfort mode will not allow for overrun (since that’s the “quiet and civilized” mode). The biggest difference before and after the update is just the number/frequency of pops you get when revving above 4k rpm or so when stationary or when under load and you let off the gas at higher rpm (build full boost then abruptly let off like you are trying to pop a blow off valve). Pre software update I would get 2 or so pops at most, and not all the time. Post software update, you get 3-4 well defined bangs, and it’s much more frequent.

After I had the update done at the dealership (which had no idea it was even available), they couldn’t believe the difference in overrun. It’s definitey a big change compared to before... so I don’t really understand what you were expecting? You’re not even supposed to go over 4500 rpm during break in, which is where the sweet spot is for the pops... so maybe you should break your engine in, adapt the ECU, so you can go WOT and then report back?

If you get 4 rapid pops when neutral revving at high rpm, then you’re updated.

If you think it’s still too quiet, lower the center armrest section of the rear seat (or even just fold down one of the rear seats), and you’ll increase the interior volume by a good 10-15%. I always drive with the rear center armrest section down.

Couple of things spring to mind, one, I assume the valves open when activated even in comfort mode which should make a difference and second I fully understand the running in procedure as I’ve built race engines in the past including the one one in my present GT40, oil changed after Dyno run, but what I don’t understand is the fact that when my son bought his new Ferrari 488, the dealer told him it could be used in a spirited manner from day one, which I wouldn’t totally agree with but it’s not done it any harm, he took it for a track day at Spa race circuit 2 days after delivery and that was last August.

The valves work regardless of what drive setting you’re in. You should be able to hear the exhaust get louder when you push the button even in comfort. But keep in mind that in comfort mode, the idle RPM is lower than in Sport+ and Race (idle rpm increases by about 200). So when you switch the exhaust button on, it’s a lot more pronounced in those modes because it’s already idling higher.

Also, pushing the exhaust button does not mean the valves are open 100%. MB programmed it so that the valves are only partially open at idle with the exhaust button on (for noise regulation). The valves open dynamically based on engine load, rpm, etc... if you floor it, the valves will open 100%. But part throttle and even idle, the valves are only open partially. There is an aftermarket module that can force the valves open 100% all the time, and it makes a huge difference at idle and lower rpms (though there won’t be any difference in sound on the top end since the valves are completely open at higher rpm with stock programming).

As for break-in procedure, there should have been a sticker on the top driver side of the windshield on delivery with instructions. For 1000 miles of break-in, do not exceed 4500 rpm, do not put the engine under high load (full boost), and do not exceed 85 MPH. This is recommended by AMG because the e-diff needs the fluid changed out at 1850 miles, and romping on it can destroy the diff if the fluid hasn’t been swapped out after break-in. Maybe your sons 488 is already broken in from the factory? I don’t have too many Ferrari’s in my garage, so I can’t exactly speak from experience!

Here’s a pic of the stickers from my Coupe for reference:

No sticker on my windscreen and I wasn’t told to run it in, I had to ask and I also read it in the manual.

Pretty much every performance engine needs a break-in period, this is common across all brands. Some people follow it, others don’t care (they’re probably on a lease anyway). Personally, I bought my Coupe outright, so I followed the break-in period... I’d rather not have oil consumption issues at 20k miles because I couldn’t control my right foot for a thousand miles.

Just out of curiosity, I googled the break-in for a 488 GTB and it says in the owners manual: "avoid exceeding 5,000 rpm for the first 1000 km (620 miles)" (in "About your vehicle" chapter, there is a "running-in" paragraph in the "driving the vehicle" part).

I’m 100% with you on that, I also pay for my cars with hard earned cash, no finance, as does my son so the question was asked at the Ferrari dealership and they said no it didn’t need breaking in......he never reads the manual.

Thanks, tried that but because I’m still running in I can’t give it the full beans, it still indicated 495 ish though so it looks like it’s giving full power and it’s me expecting too much, also I think it’s because throttle doesn’t go to the floor gearbox won’t kick down and I’m comparing it with my previous one.

I think l’m going to wait until engine is fully run in, I think only then will the figures indicated be something to compare to.