Order of tune DP>TUNE or TUNE>DP
 

Do you get the down pipes first and then tune or do you get the tune and then down pipes? I have been told you can have the tune programmed for down pipes prior to having them installed. Can anyone verify the process for this? Eurocharged stated that programming the down pipes can be done without them being done just yet.

Downpipes and then tune

We can get you a set.

Doesn't matter. Whatever is more convenient. If you're getting catless DPs you will get a CEL on dash without a tune, but that's all. Obviously you can do tune first and DPs next, there's no harm either way.

In general you should not ask vague questions. Ask more specific questions. If you want people to take your questions seriously show them that you already did some initial research and that your questions are based on research.

Do not expect other people to do your research for you. You can ask any question you want, but do not be surprised if members respond sarcastically or in a hostile manner.

edit: wrong thread sorry

oem pistons are not forged. Also we do not have a closed deck block. 1000 horsepower has never been done on OEM internals as far as I'm aware.

Tune, and then skip the DPs. Minimal power gains with them, as well as odor, failed emissions, etc. :)

But the SOUND 😂👍

If it were me and I was not doing both at the same time, I would go for the tune first. I would rather have the bid increase in power from the tune before I get the added benefit of the downpipes. When I decide to do the downpipes I would recommend getting the Kooks downpipes. They fit perfectly and I consider them the best value on the market for quality and price. Whichever direction you decide t go in I am sure you will be happy.

If you were in Los Angeles I would make you a combo deal on doing them both at the same time, maybe you can find someone locally that can put a deal together for you.

True, that is the one nice benefit. :)

m176/177/178 is indeed a closed deck block with forged pistons, the block will take north of 800hp reliably based on warranty offered with Brabus b40/800 kits through MB.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...8a7d79cf90.jpg

m176/177/178 is indeed a closed deck block with hypereutectic pistons, the block will take north of 800hp reliably based on warranty offered with Brabus b40/800 kits through MB.

https://mercedesblog.com/mercedes-am...four-liter-v8/

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...8a7d79cf90.jpg

My post regarding OEM Pistons was meant for it different thread on w212 forum. Not sure how it ended up here maybe scroll too far down and accidentally got into a related different thread

Damned Everscroll forum interface...

As a side note, if you are getting tuned for downpipes, do NOT, under any circumstances, run a DP tune with stock cats in place... Temps will spike, and you will have a bad day.

Tune only should be for stock hardware only...

maybe its just me but I feel DPs make the car sound more raspier than the throatier stock sound

I did DP before tune, also solved the CEL, so no CEL for me and daily drive and track the car and has never popped up.

.

With our ability to use the handheld for the tuning, it really is up to you. We can send ya a basic tune file to run until you have the downpipes installed. Then you can simply just get a downpipe file whenever you are ready!

We have the handheld and tune on sale right now if anyone is interested.

Jumped on that 😁👍

Does anyone know of a page where comparisons are done between the different tuning companies? Seems to me there are 3 or 4 with huge differences in price. Why is that?

For me I'm looking at the ones for the 400 (V6) and here are the details I got from their webpages.

OE -- $1,195 -- 394HP ODB2 Flash
Renntech -- $2,240 -- 392HP ODB2 Flash
Eurocharged -- $999 -- 400HP (??) -- Their HP #s look off plus it lists the C219 instead of C218
Others?

BMS JB4, best bank for the buck with dyno posts.

https://www.burgertuning.com/collect...mg_c63_e63_jb4

This is for the V6:
https://www.burgertuning.com/collect...10430618206323

I'm more of a Steak guy than a burger guy. :D That site only lists the C class (C400). I don't think the C400 and the CLS400 have the same ECU. Anyway, if it works then hey, we got four choices now. One thing I noticed was on the dyno posts for most of these was that the increase in HP really doesn't happen until after around 3k RPM's so for a daily driver you really wouldn't see much difference. True?

If it's the same engine, it will work. Depends on the tune and how aggressive it is. Some have boost ramps etc, so it's not always apples to apples.