My 2019 C63s is approaching 30k miles, just called my local South Florida dealer and was quoted $1300 for a service B or $1500 if I wanted the service + a wheel alignment...

I've browsed the forums a bit but this is easily the highest number I've seen. Any Dade/Broward guys on here with recs for a local shop?

 

Service B at my local dealer is $399... In ATL

 

If I cared that much about the dealer stamp in the service book I'd consider the drive!

I couldn't believe homie from service could casually throw in the "or $1500 with wheel alignment" without laughing.

 

I don't know what the individual prices are, I have the prepaid maintenance, but which Service B is this? They are not all the same. The C63 requires periodic transmission and differential fluid changes. They coincide with certain Service As and Bs, so they are not all the same. Based on your mileage and age of the car you are either too late for first Service B or too early for your second Service B unless I'm missing something. I'm at 27k and my last service was a Service A + rear differential. It was time based, 12 months after the first Service B, which I had done 12 months after the initial Service A.

 

I bought CPO at ~17k miles late 2021 and just got the dashboard warning that service B is coming up. When I called the associate I spoke to said I’m due for next service at 30k miles.

I just assumed since a full CPO inspection was performed recently that was why they’re giving me different answers vs the manual - but I’m no mechanic 🤷🏽‍♂️




This is the info I’ve seen elsewhere on this forum

 

They could be adding other items like transmission flush, etc. to that. I'd ask for a breakdown in services for that estimate to see.

 

Thanks for the advice will call back and check

 

That's the service schedule for the PFL as far as I can see. The FL has a slightly different service schedule, because they eliminated the rear differential flush after the break-in and instead advanced the regular diff flushes.

 

According to MB required maintenance worksheet for 30,000 miles or 3 years in addition to the other services it calls for C63s
1. Replace engine air filters
2. Change rear differential fluid.
3. Wiper blades.
* also the Cabin filter(s) (believe there may be 2 that need to be replaced.
I would see if they plan to include these required services for $1,300.

 

*****Depends on what is included in the service. $1300 sounds really high though! Mebbe consider an independent shop that works on Benz for an estimate and see what they say?

 

i 100% agree, i think the B service here at my dealer is 699.99 to be honest, like superswiss said the AMG models to have extra service items such as the diffs, trans but even with those fluids + parts.. maybe the trans service could make it that much.. but it seems excessive

 

30k miles for my E63 is a transmission flush which costs $1k.

 

Yeah i spoke with one of our service advisors, that is a price for all the services that your vehicle is due on when you arrive, not just the regular, brake fluid change, oil and cabin filters.

 

*****Yea, brake fluid is very cheap and the process to flush is not difficult if you have the equipment, which can be used on other cars and the system is easy enough to use - or you can flush the old fashioned way with two people but I like using the pressure brake bleeder I bought for like $60. Oil and filter is more expensive due to 10 quarts synthetic plus filter and O-ring plus the new drain plug. I'll be doing my oil again within a month or so as I've done quite a few dyno pulls on the car with the new turbos I installed so want fresh oil in the car again just to be safe. Cabin filters are easy enough and not too expensive.

You're paying for the expertise and labor of the person doing all of the work. I'm lucky as I have a nice garage and some tools plus take my time doing everything. Oil changes cost me mebbe $60, and since I have the tools, a brake flush is mebbe $15 now. What *was* expensive was the transmission service as the blue fluid used in my car was NOT cheap and the gaskets plus new transmission pan bolts and filter were about $190 ish and the fluid is filled back up from the bottom of the pan with the car running, using a special pump to pump it all in, at a certain operating temperature, etc... Not that easy, but doable if you have the tool and pump which I purchased and was not that cheap but still cheaper than what the dealer wanted to just change the fluid and filter with their labor charges.

Differential fluid if a change of fluid is warranted is quite easy and not expensive for the oil. That was my first project and it was much easier than other cars I own. The oil was not that expensive and had its own special funnel thing that fits right in the filler hole. I used Motul oil specified for my car as the other brand (Castrol I think) was not available. Works great.

Anyway, $1300 for service B still sounds kinda expensive to me unless a LOT of stuff has to be done. These cars are definitely not that cheap to service versus a cheapo Toyota, or basic Nissan Versa, or whatever which take regular oil, and other fluids are also super cheap, etc..

I'm happy with my car and like working on mine though..

 

Max, any chance you can link the pump you used for your trans flush? I have to do mine and dont want to pay someone a gew hundred for what is a mostly straightforward job. I also want to flush engine coolant as mine seems to be fairly low in the main chamber. Not sure the exact equipment I need for that one either. Just trying to get some insight. I try to do most of my own work but I am younger and haven't had vehicles for long enough to need these services until now. Today I did front and rear rotors, this weekend the rears are up, then diff fluid. Hopefully can figure out this trans flush and coolant flush with a little guidance. Thanks

 

*****This is what I bought from Amazon and used. It works really well, and has all manner of adapters for *many* cars. It has the nice metal adapters versus cheap plastic ones I have seen on cheaper units.

 

*****For the coolant flush and fill you WILL need an air compressor or some major source of vacuum so you don't end up with air in the system which WILL cause the engine to run a LOT hotter. Do not be cheap and just fill the coolant from the reservoirs and hope no air gets in. You must use the vacuum or closed system technique with the appropriate adapter and make sure it isn't leaking air. Link below to what I used. You can't just squeeze hoses and do other stupid old school crap on the system our cars have as the water pumps work different than old school cars and don't do well at all if there is air in the system. Get the system below or something similar, or pay a pro to do it right. The motor you save by doing it right will be yours, and I've seen a person or two try and cheap out and wonder why their car runs like crap, and runs really hot even though they have replaced the radiator and heat exchangers to the latest and greatest and their car is now *slower* and runs hotter than it did before the "upgrade"

 

You should do some DIY posts. On your brake fluid flush what psi did you keep your bleeder at? Is it a Motive brake bleeder or something else? I just did pads and rotors and plan on doing a brake fluid flush be for my track day next week.

 

Thanks for the info man, really appreciate it. Yes ive seen you say on other threads vaccum is required. I have a manual oil extractor pump, I wonder if I can somehow rig the adapters to make it work. I'll do some investigating. Thanks again.

 

Service B, no thank you.

30,000 miles I had the dealership do transmission filter and fluid flush and change differential oil. I had already did spark plugs, oil change and air filters myself. I had did the breaks, rear rotors were bad so I replaced all 4. The rear calipers looked rusty, I replaced them. I flushed the brake lines. I installed ceramic brake pads in place of OEM ones that squeak and grind; coat the wheels in dust. Spark plugs were really nasty. I change oil every 5K miles anyway. I checked the plugs again
on the next oil change and ended up buying a new set of ignition coils, which is the latest updated ignition coils that were just released. I upgraded to iridium plugs, the NGK plugs they put in AMG GT. NAPA sells them, dont buy knockoffs from the fake NGK store online.

I noticed the bolt had been removed from the ride height sensor on the right rear. The car did kind of lump along sometimes. I did have an alignment done at the dealership. They said it needed something replaced in the rear suspension, but didn’t tell me what. But it was going to cost hundreds of dollars. The car drove a little off. I went to the other Mercedes dealership to get an alignment, they said my alignment was off in the front but was perfect in the back. Couldn’t find anything. They dialed in the toe evenly but a too sharp, maybe so my front tires wear out at the same pace as my rears- So I can buy a full set instead of just the rears.

When I swapped out my wheels for summer I noticed the bolt was missing on the level sensor. I put a bolt in there and it doesn’t randomly start to drive lumpy anymore. They are really in business to screw people. There is some legitimate work to be done on the car- Why screw me. Like I’m dumb and wont figure it out. Since I put the summer wheel setup on I took it in for alignment at a 3rd Mercedes dealership. They actually fixed it up correctly. The alignment is good.

There is a good chance they will try to screw you. I haven’t taken my car in so far- Now that I’m in South Florida.

Rattling off all the car repairs I’ve done it would be logical to think I would figure out what they did- Must have thought I was bluffing.

Having the transmission filter and fluid flush and oil changed in the differential is a good idea at 30K.

I replaced the engine air filter with low profile high flow filter. The cabin air filters are cheap. One is on the passenger side of the engine bay underneath the plastic and the other is underneath the glovebox. Its easy to do.

Oil change every 5K or so instead of waiting and coolant flush every year.

If you have money to burn go a head and pay them to do it. Get a list of what they are going to do and compare that with what should be done. These car require maintenance, especially if you drive hard.

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What brand of brake pads did you put on (or does it matter)? The squeaking of the brakes drives me up the wall!

 

PowerStop Z17 Ceramic

PowerStop makes carbon fiber brake pads for red brakes- I would definitely try carbon fiber brake pads if I had red brakes.

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Get porterfield brake pads. Squeaking with the OEM brake pads used to drive me nuts but with porterfield brakes I have yet to hear a single squeak in about 40,000 kms.