When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey Guys, About a year ago I picked up a 2020 C63S Coupe at ~7,500 Miles. Currently at 16k miles, and I am being told that my brake pads and rotors need to be changed already, the dealership is quoting me $6,000!!! They claimed $4,200 for the front and $1,800 for the back. I feel as though on my other performance cars I have never had to replace the rotors and pads this early. Can you guys give some insight as to if this is normal and the pricing you guys paid roughly? I know 6,000 is absolute insanity and will likely be going to my mechanic.
the 390mm front rotors are very pricey regardless if you go OEM or aftermarket. If you look around and source your own parts you can get the job completed at less than a 1/3 of the dealership quote.
There have been several brake threads recently and all of this has been discussed multiple times. Have you tried searching at least? Here's a very recent thread. There are others in the W213 forum etc. All basically the same deal as far as AMGs are concerned. If you get it done at a dealership, they'll rake you over the coals.
Hey Guys, About a year ago I picked up a 2020 C63S Coupe at ~7,500 Miles. Currently at 16k miles, and I am being told that my brake pads and rotors need to be changed already, the dealership is quoting me $6,000!!! They claimed $4,200 for the front and $1,800 for the back. I feel as though on my other performance cars I have never had to replace the rotors and pads this early. Can you guys give some insight as to if this is normal and the pricing you guys paid roughly? I know 6,000 is absolute insanity and will likely be going to my mechanic.
look through my thread about this. Also Its really easy to do it yourself. 2 hr job for front and back. A 10 year old can do it. I will send you wis diy if you need it. Big rip off, avoid the dealer at all cost unless its for warranty work. $1200 for front full floating roters and oem brake pad. For rear its even cheaper. Save yourself the 6k for mods
look through my thread about this. Also Its really easy to do it yourself. 2 hr job for front and back. A 10 year old can do it. I will send you wis diy if you need it. Big rip off, avoid the dealer at all cost unless its for warranty work. $1200 for front full floating roters and oem brake pad. For rear its even cheaper. Save yourself the 6k for mods
OMG could you send me the WIS DIY instructions please. I will be doing my rear brakes in the up coming months and oil changes are the only thing I have done on cars before lol. Thank you!!
I saw a pretty comprehensive youtube video about replacing brakes/rotors on an AMG. I'm not that handy with a wrench......sooo I have to have mine done. I did save some by getting my own pads/rotors/sensors from FCP Euro
Bring it to an independent shop first. Dealers tend to not want to try and save rotors. Many shops can machine the rotors - some simple scratches and they'll want to throw them out. I know, because I was in the same spot as you last year, dealer told me I needed new rotors (the fronts are carbon ceramic) at only 27k miles, when the fronts should be good to 80k+ if you don't track it. Brought it to an independent and they machined the rotors, and said I have probably another 30k I can put on em if I get them cleaned and maintained once a year.
Bring it to an independent shop first. Dealers tend to not want to try and save rotors. Many shops can machine the rotors - some simple scratches and they'll want to throw them out. I know, because I was in the same spot as you last year, dealer told me I needed new rotors (the fronts are carbon ceramic) at only 27k miles, when the fronts should be good to 80k+ if you don't track it. Brought it to an independent and they machined the rotors, and said I have probably another 30k I can put on em if I get them cleaned and maintained once a year.
Yeah, unless those were 27K miles of serious on-track running, the dealer was either completely negligent/ignorant in doing their job or were rip-off pros. For street-only use, it's likely that carbon ceramic rotors will last over 100K miles. They don't really wear, they just chemically/structurally degrade due to high temperatures.
Furthermore, the WIS instructions on how to measure CC rotor wear is fraught with problems. I actually wrote a whitepaper explaining this and supplied it to AMG. Doubt it made any difference. In short, the _only_ way to accurately measure the wear on the current generation of (wear-limit stamped) CC rotors is using the multi-thousand dollar Carboteq measurement tool. I say all this based upon my experience with a GTR Pro that I track ... and use the Carboteq tool after each track day.
For AMG iron rotors, there's normally a set of "wear divots" that clearly show when the rotors are at their wear limit. Search these forums and you'll find a picture I've (multi-)posted that shows them. It seems common that rotors last through 2 sets of brake pads.
Yeah, unless those were 27K miles of serious on-track running, the dealer was either completely negligent/ignorant in doing their job or were rip-off pros. For street-only use, it's likely that carbon ceramic rotors will last over 100K miles. They don't really wear, they just chemically/structurally degrade due to high temperatures.
Furthermore, the WIS instructions on how to measure CC rotor wear is fraught with problems. I actually wrote a whitepaper explaining this and supplied it to AMG. Doubt it made any difference. In short, the _only_ way to accurately measure the wear on the current generation of (wear-limit stamped) CC rotors is using the multi-thousand dollar Carboteq measurement tool. I say all this based upon my experience with a GTR Pro that I track ... and use the Carboteq tool after each track day.
For AMG iron rotors, there's normally a set of "wear divots" that clearly show when the rotors are at their wear limit. Search these forums and you'll find a picture I've (multi-)posted that shows them. It seems common that rotors last through 2 sets of brake pads.
Great info. Although I really can't see 100k+ being normal even with calm street driving. I'm light-moderate driving, and even turn traction control off when it's safe to do so to avoid excess break wear, and I doubt I'd get it past 75k. I'm guessing hard driving is somewhere around 50k. A lot of the ones on Autotrade seem to mention new rotors being added as well <100k
Great info. Although I really can't see 100k+ being normal even with calm street driving. I'm light-moderate driving, and even turn traction control off when it's safe to do so to avoid excess break wear, and I doubt I'd get it past 75k. I'm guessing hard driving is somewhere around 50k. A lot of the ones on Autotrade seem to mention new rotors being added as well <100k
I disagree. I can almost guarantee that you'll get scammed into replacing the wear-marked carbon ceramic rotors _way_ too early if you don't use the wear numbers acquired via the Carboteq tool.
I repeat ... the WIS procedure for determining wear has so many issues that it'll virtually always be inaccurate. Replace the carbon ceramic rotors too soon and you'll spend a lot of money unnecessarily (ten grand per axle?). Replace too late (if you're tracking the car) and risk having a catastrophic rotor failure (though I'd guess there's still a large percentage of over-build safety leeway into the Carboteq "I'm done" numbers).
If someone (OK, anyone) says you're carbon ceramic rotors need to be replaced, ask to see them being measured by the Carboteq tool (or at least verify that they have the tool and get/compare their acquired numbers with the low-number limit on your rotors. This all assumes that they're the more modern carbon ceramic rotors that have the Carboteq wear numbers on the rotors. Some of the older ones do not have these numbers.
Hey Guys, About a year ago I picked up a 2020 C63S Coupe at ~7,500 Miles. Currently at 16k miles, and I am being told that my brake pads and rotors need to be changed already, the dealership is quoting me $6,000!!! They claimed $4,200 for the front and $1,800 for the back. I feel as though on my other performance cars I have never had to replace the rotors and pads this early. Can you guys give some insight as to if this is normal and the pricing you guys paid roughly? I know 6,000 is absolute insanity and will likely be going to my mechanic.
G'Day Fella's,
Ace347, I know on my C63, the Hub of my front brake rotors, they have written on them, their Minimum rotor Thickness (once you reach this Minimum thickness, they will need to be replaced).
In my cars case, that is 34mm thickness. You will need to remove the vehicles wheels to see this writing, and then use a Micrometer or Vernier Calipers to obtain these measurements.
I hope that helps
Regards
Homer
Last edited by Homer Oz; Mar 8, 2024 at 04:48 PM.
Reason: for the purpose of clarity. JB
Lotsa folks were taught to drive using both feet -- right foot on the gas, left foot on the brake. Flip flop your feet to control your speed. That's why your brakes are toast in 12K miles.
How many downshifters do we have here?
If done properly, the engine can slow you, reducing the amount of wear and tear on brakes.
Gotta be careful though.
If executed improperly, downshifting can cause premature wear on drivetrain.
Those may have enough material on them, but getting new rotors is cheaper than the labor to turn the old rotors. My wife's VW had vibrating brakes at one point and it wasn't worth turning them compared to the cost of just getting new rotors.
My car just came back from service (B Service)/ covered by PPM/ 15k miles on the odometer. My SA gave me the heads up on my brake wear too and related that my Front pads are at about 6mm and Rear pads at about 5mm. Quoted me $3211 (Rear pads and rotors).
I know I have some time, but I am also seeking other options for this matter for the future.
I disagree. I can almost guarantee that you'll get scammed into replacing the wear-marked carbon ceramic rotors _way_ too early if you don't use the wear numbers acquired via the Carboteq tool.
I repeat ... the WIS procedure for determining wear has so many issues that it'll virtually always be inaccurate. Replace the carbon ceramic rotors too soon and you'll spend a lot of money unnecessarily (ten grand per axle?). Replace too late (if you're tracking the car) and risk having a catastrophic rotor failure (though I'd guess there's still a large percentage of over-build safety leeway into the Carboteq "I'm done" numbers).
If someone (OK, anyone) says you're carbon ceramic rotors need to be replaced, ask to see them being measured by the Carboteq tool (or at least verify that they have the tool and get/compare their acquired numbers with the low-number limit on your rotors. This all assumes that they're the more modern carbon ceramic rotors that have the Carboteq wear numbers on the rotors. Some of the older ones do not have these numbers.
Again, really great info I appreciate it. Re: price, c63 only has carbons option in front, so not 10k per axel. Full kit is around 11k OEM
Question though, do the Mercedes dealerships usually or always have the Carboteq? They're the ones who said the rotos were toast when they weren't.
Again, really great info I appreciate it. Re: price, c63 only has carbons option in front, so not 10k per axel. Full kit is around 11k OEM
Question though, do the Mercedes dealerships usually or always have the Carboteq? They're the ones who said the rotos were toast when they weren't.
An axle is front or rear (both hubs per axle).
In my area (when I checked a couple of years ago), NO Mercedes dealer/shop had the Carboteq tool. Apparently Audi has specified that their shops are only to use the Carboteq tool for checking wear on (the applicable) carbon ceramic rotors but I don't know whether this is obeyed. Again, if anyone says that carbon ceramic rotors need replacing, ask to see the Carboteq numbers.
The attached PDF explains why I wouldn't accept a wear evaluation performed as specified in WIS (i.e., without using the Carboteq tool).
My car just came back from service (B Service)/ covered by PPM/ 15k miles on the odometer. My SA gave me the heads up on my brake wear too and related that my Front pads are at about 6mm and Rear pads at about 5mm. Quoted me $3211 (Rear pads and rotors).
I know I have some time, but I am also seeking other options for this matter for the future.
Yeah, unless those were 27K miles of serious on-track running, the dealer was either completely negligent/ignorant in doing their job or were rip-off pros. For street-only use, it's likely that carbon ceramic rotors will last over 100K miles. They don't really wear, they just chemically/structurally degrade due to high temperatures.
Furthermore, the WIS instructions on how to measure CC rotor wear is fraught with problems. I actually wrote a whitepaper explaining this and supplied it to AMG. Doubt it made any difference. In short, the _only_ way to accurately measure the wear on the current generation of (wear-limit stamped) CC rotors is using the multi-thousand dollar Carboteq measurement tool. I say all this based upon my experience with a GTR Pro that I track ... and use the Carboteq tool after each track day.
For AMG iron rotors, there's normally a set of "wear divots" that clearly show when the rotors are at their wear limit. Search these forums and you'll find a picture I've (multi-)posted that shows them. It seems common that rotors last through 2 sets of brake pads.
Hey mate you have that white paper handy? Would be a good read.
Im just about to change another set of pads. My car has done 40,000km(24,000m). It's my wife's car and hardly breaks a sweat. Only when I get in it, it gets a bit of a beating bit never hard breaking.
Ive purchased Porterfield Brakes Pads as I've previously had them before with no problems with squeaking. I'll be keeping the discs on again.
Those may have enough material on them, but getting new rotors is cheaper than the labor to turn the old rotors. My wife's VW had vibrating brakes at one point and it wasn't worth turning them compared to the cost of just getting new rotors.
I happened to inquire about this at an OReilly store a couple months ago. They turn rotors on site with a specialty lathe made for this. Cost is $50 with same day service if they're not busy. For my Jeep, turning an old rotor for $50 versus buying a new one for $70 is a toss-up. For an MB, with $300 rotors, maybe turning them makes sense, especially if there's only minor surface scoring.
... maybe turning them makes sense, especially if there's only minor surface scoring.
If there's only minor surface scoring, which is normal with iron rotors, just replace the pads and do a proper bed-in procedure and you'll be fine ... assuming the thickness wear indicates enough metal for another set of pads (remember that the AMG iron rotors have wear-indicator divots so you can easily see/judge the wear).
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
