Cl600 chargecooler bleeding
 

Hi there
I got codes read on the car and an intermittent charge air temp high came up. I put a new Bosch 10 pump on it and bled air out by taking valves out and having pipes go into a bottle which goes into heat exchanger. I done about 500 miles since and had no code stored for it. But I don't think all the air is out. I have just purchased a sealey vs0041. A vacuum filling tool. Will it be good enough to not have to go to mb and have it done there ? This is the info for the tool I got

Anybody else tried one ? Anyone know if it will do the job or have I wasted £100. Cheers

Eliminates the introduction of bubbles and air-locks into the cooling system and dramatically reduces system filling time.
No more time-consuming system bleeding.
Reduces fluid waste and messy spills.
Automatically conducts system leak test.
Low profile design broadens application range especially for use on MPVs where lower windscreen lip might obstruct other tools.
Simple operation requires workshop air supply and does not require fiddly interchange of vacuum and fluid hoses - as found on other versions of this tool.
Supplied with 1300mm fluid hose.

Why do you not think all the air is out?

I've bled them several times successfully by doing basic bleeding. Vacuum works but it must seal up well and pull a very strong vacuum to be reliable, and still will take some running of the pump and possibly multiple attempts.

I tried running the the pump for about 20 mins bleeding but the bleed off pipes still had tiny bubbles in. Could not get rid of them and because of the flow they were getting sucked straight back down into the system. Also when go around the block the coolers are so hot I can't touch them.
This weekend I'm fitting a second pump in series and connecting the secondary engine cooling radiator up to the chargecooling system to get temps down. So I will need to bleed it again and want to be sure all the air is out.
I have done the remote header tank mod that connects to the overflow on back of the heat exchanger to help keep air out

I usually run the pump for a couple minutes, then leave it off for a bit for the bubbles to coalesce before I switch it back on.

What are your IATs like when in boost? Remember, the pump doesn't run at low load, so just a regular drive and idle will not engage the pump, it only comes on at heavy throttle or once the IAT goes over a certain point.

I've not got the right tools to monitor IAT so I have ordered one of them interceptor gauges that can constantly monitor them. So I don't know what they are. But they did up up the high temp warning and cut boost. Last week before the pump change after some fast driving it would not rev above 4000 rpm . When it cooled it gained full power again.
I just find it hard to believe that a couple of pipes and a bottle can do the same job as the MAin dealer machine. My local MAin dealer quoted me £150 to purge the intercooler!

Even the factory bleeder system is not the best. It works, but it's far from a perfect design.

My system works perfect and I've only bled it by filling and running the pump. Car pulls like a train and just keeps going, raced several times back to back last night and no power loss.

Hi Dave
done like you in the beginning
don't panic
I've build my own machine as MB didn't want to sell theirs
let me find my article
it will cost you 50$
used it 3 times, NEVER got bubbles back, even with my pump upgrade

Ok, don't listen to anyone on this one, this has been tested and works 100%

links to buy the stuf (I bought it from amazon germany but you can get it elsware or from .com)

YOU NEED TO BUY 2 SETS as only 1 right size connector is in 1 package
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the reservoir must be hard plastic as you create depression

Just drive the car a bit
then connect all the stuff
let it run for 10 minutes engine on
then 5 min engine off
then 10 min engine on
then stop the engine and close all outputs
let engine cool of with input open connected to the fresh coolant
it will suck out some more collant with cooling off

not sure if I explained well but I tested this 3 times now and it's perfect

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...ee82847022.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...00cebd543f.jpg

the only difficulty is the hose from the fresh cooling fluid, to fill the up so you have no bubbles there before you hang it in the tank
little patience needed

and yes, also, you need a compressor of course

before this, ive tested several methods, but nothing else works to get a 100% bubble free intercooler circuit
if you have even tiny little bubbles left, after a while it will start pushing coolant out of the circuit

also, I hooked up a Pierburg 150. no resistor stuff, direct connect to original wires on self made support. right made it won't bend you hoses like the original installation

So you hook it all up and use the compressor and that puts a vacumm in the bottle on the ground . So you don't unscrew the valves on the coolers. Is this correct.
I now have a machine for filling system so all I need Are a few stop valves and the bit to screw on bleed valves.

exactly
if you have the right kit to connect to the valves as on amazon kit included you just screw them on. keeping the valves original prevents air to get in when you disconnect or later
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

these here say "air conditioning kit"
oh oops, I forgot, you have to buy 2 of these kits
as only on connect fits the right size
but if you have access to a store who sells air condition refill stuff, they might have the right size also

you will never ever have that problem anymore
the mercedes benz kit is used for more stuff then this but when you look at the WIS instructions, only what I do here is what they do

TIP: hang all hoses upwards at least partially so you prevent air going back and with transparent hose you see they going out too

What are the other two pipes on the depression bottle for ? One comes from coolers into bottle creating depression and wondering what the other two pipes are doing?

one hose in
one hose out
third one not used in this setup (closed)
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...f69bf7127e.jpg

Ok thanks. Got it now I think. I create the vacuum starting at the bottle end and not at the top of heat exchanger. So I keep the airflow going at the bottle all the time until the I turn engine off and close the outputs.

yes, vacuum mus be in the bottle

Yep that's exactly how the MB system works, vacuum on the bleeder ports, fills through the cap. Nice setup.

The kit you got from amazon Germany is also on eBay in the U.K. If anyone else needs the kit this is the link. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262638728835

mercedes benz cap is 100$ machine 1000$ lol
+ they don't want to sell it to us

the other kit is also available on ebay uk
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/R134A-R12-...EAAOSwyQtVlSYF

at least, looks like the same sizes
probably all standards

you must know, I had no idea what size exactly, I guessed, but I was lucky :)

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...df0bccc8a3.jpg
I make mistake and ordered not good valve.
Now I am leaving info, it is converstion from R134 to R12 port.
Important- when you screw it to schrader valves on intercoolers it must to autoopen it.

Mr. Pmercury is it really make a huge difference between bleed car with IAR temp ?
Now my idle temp is very high- about 80-90'C after 1 hours driving. I just replace pump to newest Bosch 010,
but I am afraid that it can't help. Please tell me after your mods in CL600 what is your approximate idle IAR temp and running ?

Important- when we are doing bleeding it is necessary to have IC pump jumped and constantly working ? Or we just to need turn on car for 10 min, off 5 min, on 10 min without any relay jump ?

I have 27-30 celcius when driving
assoon as you are in the city that raises like hell to 60-70 due to lack of airflow
even with the custom DAS settings "hot countries"
that is why I am installing computer managed double pushing SPAL ventilators monay

read your temp when you drive above 60 KM/H

here is my latest version and double piersburg 100 pumps connection

big images zo you can zoom, pump ON on ignition to avoid a dash fault you need to disable IC pump contole in DAS

due to a lack of coolant flow when purging, you have to remove the little valves in the aluminum intercooler conections, it will flow faster

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...46f4bc88e2.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...0bf9d671c1.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...d743c3055e.jpg

2 packs of these you only need the yellow
https://alexnld.com/product/800-psi-...ter-hoses-set/




https://alexnld.com/product/4pcs-r12...-a-c-3-8-7-16/

Thank you I just ordered the same packages with connectors.
That connection with valve On/Off that you screw in original schrader place you use only to bleeding or when driving ?
I understand that is only connection with unscrew schrader valves inside.

Important- when we are doing bleeding with your tool it is necessary to have IC pump jumped and constantly working ? Or we just to need turn on car for 10 min, off 5 min, on 10 min without any relay jump ?

leave it on the engine
I switched to flexible as if you bleed much like me with all my work on this car, you end up with bending and killing the connector gaskets
so this system is flexible and you'll never have dead gaskets

you do a full vacuum, by this I mean, input closed, you let vacuum build up, then open the input

you start with bleeding with pump off
once you have no more bubbles then

you put bleed on and turn key on- off short times
you'll see that the pump shocks the bubbles out

done