mbenzCL55

I just bought this car last week, I knew about the issue before I bought it, I didn't care because I fell in love with the beauty. When I turn off the car the rear left valve lowers about 2-3 inches, and all the other valves act normal. When I turn the car off I get a red warning message saying, "Stop car too low" a few seconds after turning the car on the car jumps up to the regular position, and I get a message regular blue message saying "Visit Workshop ABC" once it goes back up. So, never any issues when the car is on, only when I turn the car off the rear left valve starts to sink a few inches but hops back up a few seconds after starting, and stays up as long as the cars running. The car has a feature to be able to be raised even higher, and the rear left valve works perfectly when I want to raise it even higher when its running.

OCKlasse

Sounds like it's definitely your rear manifold. You can access it via the panel in front of your driver rear wheel well.

alx

Rear manifold? What is that?

Have your car read, but i think Your rear valve block is gone. You can have the system flushed/ filtered, but this rarely works. The valve is about 1500 and you will need a few quarts of abc fluid.

mbenzCL55

if the valve is gone wouldn't that not allow it to operate at all? it comes up fine when it starts and I can raise it higher when it's started?

benz_addict

Dirty fluid could do that also check the rear left ride height sensor. Do fluid flush with a new filter if it doesnt work replace the rear valve block

OCKlasse

The system holds pressure via the tandem ABC pump. When the car is on, it is building pressure and the leak from that valve doesn't matter, as pressure is building and lifting that corner. When the car is off, fluid is leaking passed the seal and that's why the car is dropping. It could be a matter of just a bad inner valve seal, but I'm not sure if those parts are available separately. I speak from previous hydraulic knowledge.

alx

There are no spare parts to my knowledge. A few people have shown interest to rebuild the valve blocks but none so far have shown any success. I am sure they are prolly trivial to rebuild, but the volume/ profit is simply not there to support such endeavor.

Filtering thr abc fluid rarely works. You can try leaving the car at th top- most position and see if it holds. Some of them do.

OCKlasse

On the hydraulic manifolds I was around, there is a small seal we would call an inner dump (valve) seal. 90% of the time that was the culprit.

cjcalo

How hard is it to change this valve block?

layzie12g

http://www.arnottindustries.com/part...18_pid144.html

We use these on all of our Rovers and Benz at work, but I'm slightly confused. Do these CLs use air as well as hydraulics to maintain ride height and change stiffness?

awiner

No air at all on the CL suspension. It is all hydraulic. Arnott's page has always had that misprint error.

cjcalo

How hard is it to change the rear valve block, anyone?

awiner

Swapping a valve block is not hard. However, you need to make sure to bleed the system properly after doing such.

mbenzCL55

I tried leaving my car the top position before turning it off and it still sunk, I'm feeling that there's a leak in the block. When I'm in the car, after I've turned it off I listen quietly and I hear a clicking sound every couple of seconds in the rear driver side where the block is. It drops completely in about 5 minutes. I'm guessing this is obviously a leak? if it is a leak, where should I be looking for the new valve? and what is it called exactly because I can't find it on ebay

mbenzCL55

I was quoted approximately $2400 for this repair, the conclusion was replacing the hydraulic valve by mercedes dealer. Do I have any other options?

mbenzCL55

it's been two years since I started this thread, still have the same issue. Is prolonging the repair going to end up costing me more in the future? Or is it ok continue using as is.

awiner

Rebuild your valve block yourself. There are numerous threads on this forum detailing the procedure and parts (o-rings) needed.