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My wife was driving the CL55 yesterday, she saw some smoke and the message reading (Car too low do not drive), I have always had an air leak on the rear driver side block so I immediately assumed it was related to that. I had her pull over until I arrived to see what the issue was. Turns out there was a significant amount of hydraulic fluid leaking from the front driver side, the front driver side was sunk in a bit, but did not get as low as rear driver side with the air leak. Luckily it was about a mile away from the house so I drove it back slowly. While it was in our driveway, it continued to leak out a puddle worth of hydraulic fluid from front driver side. Does it sound like the strut or valve/block collapsed? or could it be a bad line? could the compressor/power steering pump be damaged? I did not lose power steering.
Many ABC leaks are internal - such as accumulator gas leaks and valve block seal leaks.
This is an external leak, and is probably due to a failed hose joint. Get a torch and have a look down the front of the engine.
Check the oil level in the reservoir, and don't start the engine if its empty, as that will break the pump and make everything much worse.
Nick
So the oil is almost completely empty in the reservoir, it's down to the bottom of the tank. Is it possible to jack it up in the driveway and repair the line that way? is it difficult to get to the line?
Never run the engine with an empty ABC reservoir (unless you remove the aux drive belt.
That's exactly what I did. Some lines are easy to replace and some are difficult. You need to find out which one it is.
Nick
Right, I know enough to not turn the car on with low\no hydraulic fluid. Is there a specific hose\part that will be needed once I've found the broken line? Will I need to get the hose from the dealer etc? Also would you know how to top the fluid off without getting air in the system?
its probably a torn hose that attaches to your valve block in front left drivers side. Remove the hose, follow it down in the wheel well (you will need to take the wheel and inside covers off) and get it reman 3000PSI min for $50 and pop it back in. Top up fluid, do a rodeo if you can and your good to go...
its probably a torn hose that attaches to your valve block in front left drivers side. Remove the hose, follow it down in the wheel well (you will need to take the wheel and inside covers off) and get it reman 3000PSI min for $50 and pop it back in. Top up fluid, do a rodeo if you can and your good to go...
Thank you for your time, is Reman 3000PSI the type of hose and where can I get it? Does it require any special equipment to install? Also is there a specific way I should be topping off the hydraulic fluid?
Would it be possible to refill the hydraulic fluid myself and start the car back up after replacing the line? all sides have sunk in except for the rear passenger wheel and the fluid when I checked last was at the bottom of the reservoir.
I was able to remove the wheel covers and find the line that appears to be leaking. The line starts from the power steering\abc pump and is housed in some type of aluminum type tubing. Anyone have experience with this line? tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Here is where the line starts from (The ABC pump)
Runs down underneath the car
Line runs underneath the car
Here is where it appears to be leaking
Close up of where it appears to be leaking
The line starts from the ABC pump and runs down underneath the car.
I assume thats the line that comes out of the pump via one flexible hose, run across the front of the engine, then turns right and runs down the side of the sump, and connects to the pressure regulator via a flexible hose?
I haven't seen an ABC hose like that - they are usually rubber-sheathed (though with two steel braid layers internally). If that's what's leaking, then that's what needs to be repaired or replaced.
That line is split into two parts - there's a joint at the front right hand corner of the engine.
Its quite a common failure. How handy are you? How many metric tools and jack stands do you have?
Nick
Last edited by Welwynnick; 11-03-2014 at 08:29 AM.
I assume thats the line that comes out of the pump via one flexible hose, run across the front of the engine, then turns right and runs down the side of the sump, and connects to the pressure regulator via a flexible hose?
I haven't seen an ABC hose like that - they are usually rubber-sheathed (though with two steel braid layers internally). If that's what's leaking, then that's what needs to be repaired or replaced.
That line is split into two parts - there's a joint at the front right hand corner of the engine.
Its quite a common failure. How handy are you? How many metric tools and jack stands do you have?
Nick
Nick,
Please see my post with the pictures of the ABC line, I've included the screenshots of where the broken line starts, and where it runs down to.
I assume thats the line that comes out of the pump via one flexible hose, run across the front of the engine, then turns right and runs down the side of the sump, and connects to the pressure regulator via a flexible hose?
I haven't seen an ABC hose like that - they are usually rubber-sheathed (though with two steel braid layers internally). If that's what's leaking, then that's what needs to be repaired or replaced.
That line is split into two parts - there's a joint at the front right hand corner of the engine.
Its quite a common failure. How handy are you? How many metric tools and jack stands do you have?
Nick
I haven't done much with this car other than the air intake filters, but I believe I can remove it, and I should have the tools, and jackstands. Is it difficult to remove this line to have it rebuilt? Do I have to remove the entire line or can I remove only the affected area?
I haven't done much with this car other than the air intake filters, but I believe I can remove it, and I should have the tools, and jackstands. Is it difficult to remove this line to have it rebuilt? Do I have to remove the entire line or can I remove only the affected area?
Thanks
I thought the W215 & 220 were much the same under the skin, but that pipe looks unfamiliar. If your pipe is split into two like mine, then you can remove just the affected section. The connection is a simple metal to metal threaded union. Getting at it is tricky. You can either raise the engine slightly, or lower the subframe (which is what I did this year). Its DIY feasible, but not for beginners.
There are various ways of doing the repair, but I would recommend cutting out the failed hose and replacing it with a new section with 10mm compression fittings. I found them easy and reliable to work with. Its described in this thread - compulsory reading:
I thought the W215 & 220 were much the same under the skin, but that pipe looks unfamiliar. If your pipe is split into two like mine, then you can remove just the affected section. The connection is a simple metal to metal threaded union. Getting at it is tricky. You can either raise the engine slightly, or lower the subframe (which is what I did this year). Its DIY feasible, but not for beginners.
There are various ways of doing the repair, but I would recommend cutting out the failed hose and replacing it with a new section with 10mm compression fittings. I found them easy and reliable to work with. Its described in this thread - compulsory reading:
(I thing the last 8 means the last 8 chassis No digits)
Nick
Are all of these hoses the same width? Just want to make sure before I buy the fitting for it. From the looks of it, it looks like this fitting is where it is leaking from on the close up photo I took, wouldn't replacing the metal fitting fix the leak or is it likely the hose that is damaged?
hey, your making a mountain out of a mole hill. just replace the line with fittings and be done with it. to be honest, from your questions i'm not sure you should do the job yourself. you might be better off having a qualified mechanic do it.
I don't have any experience, but replacing the line doesn't seem too complicated, after all I was able to find the leak. I am not trying to over complicate things, this is a forum and I am just asking questions because I would like to learn a few things about the system before I make an attempt to repair or have someone else do it. If I knew how to replace the line I wouldn't be here asking about it.
The usual cause of leaks are the crimped joints between the flexible hose and the solid pipe.
The pipe is usually 10mm OD steel pipe with 1.5mm wall thickness (though the pipe coming out of the pump is 12mm OD).
The flexible hose is 3/8" bore two wire hydraulic hose, which is common as muck. It has two layers of steel braid. Its usually rated for 300 - 330 bar.
Solid metal pipe is safe to re-use as long as its clean, but flexible hose can never be re-used. A repair section of 3/8 2 wire hose with 10mm compression fittings will easily fit onto a section of solid pipe, as long as you have about 15mm of clean, straight pipe.
The usual cause of leaks are the crimped joints between the flexible hose and the solid pipe.
The pipe is usually 10mm OD steel pipe with 1.5mm wall thickness (though the pipe coming out of the pump is 12mm OD).
The flexible hose is 3/8" bore two wire hydraulic hose, which is common as muck. It has two layers of steel braid. Its usually rated for 300 - 330 bar.
Solid metal pipe is safe to re-use as long as its clean, but flexible hose can never be re-used. A repair section of 3/8 2 wire hose with 10mm compression fittings will easily fit onto a section of solid pipe, as long as you have about 15mm of clean, straight pipe.
Nick
Where would be the best place to get a replacement hoses that I need? do you have an idea on what I'd need based off my photos?
As far as I can tell, every town of any size has a pneumatics and hydraulics shop that can make hydraulic hoses to any spec, very quickly and cheaply. And I bet you never knew they existed. They're everywhere once you start to look.
Do read that Ongoing Maintenance and Repair thread, all the procedures and pictures are there.
The first thing I did myself was take a broken hose along and get them to repair it. The best way seems to be to get a flexible section with 10mm compression fittings, and fit it yourself. The compression fittings should only be tightened once everything is assembled, because you want it all in the right position. You need to avoid having any flexible hose in tension or in twist.
Have to go now and fix my own car.
Nick
Last edited by Welwynnick; 11-05-2014 at 05:26 PM.
Is this the main ABC pressure line ? (A2203204572)
It cost me $2300 to replace last year (independent). Part is cheap but very labor intensive. Stealership quoted me over $3,600 if I recall correctly.
10-16-2014, 10:51 AM
