STILL F*&^%NG VIBRATING!!!!!
12-14-2015, 08:24 AM
#51
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09 S550, 08 Charger Srt8, 63 Ford Galaxie 500, 07 GSXR1000
Factory spec alignment has excessive toe in (unless your going 155mph). It wears a pattern in the tires. In the beginning it comes and goes with tire temperature, and just gets worse. Negative camber and soft tires amplify the problem. I used to start feeling it on new tires within 400 miles. After 5 sets of tires and lots of ball joints and control arms, I finally cured it with K-mac bushings in the front to reduce the negative camber and set my toe to almost 0 (.015" total at the front of the rim). Then I bought 500 tread wear Michelin as3 tires and went 30k before the vibration started coming back.
If your tires are newish you can smooth out the pattern with a big grinder and 24 grit paper. spin it against chalk, it will be mostly on the inside edge.
Toe is the biggest factor.
Cost me a small fortune to learn that, hope it helps.
If your tires are newish you can smooth out the pattern with a big grinder and 24 grit paper. spin it against chalk, it will be mostly on the inside edge.
Toe is the biggest factor.
Cost me a small fortune to learn that, hope it helps.
that great for the front. Any info regarding the rear inside tire wearing out?
12-14-2015, 11:46 AM
#52
starving artist thanks for the info.
12-14-2015, 01:08 PM
#53
MBWorld Fanatic!
My suspension may be different than a CL, but mine has a ton of flex under full power, therefore lots of toe in. If you set the toe at 0 it will toe way out under power and the back end wanders back and forth becoming a real handful. You can split the difference and get away with about half the recommended toe in, doubling tire life. Then flip the tires when they are about half worn out. Fortunately the rear tires wear smooth instead of developing a pattern.
12-14-2015, 01:42 PM
#54
MBWorld Fanatic!
12-15-2015, 07:13 AM
#55
MBWorld Fanatic!
Front in the first post, rear in the second.
The front gave me the most trouble with it's rhythmic vibrations driving me nuts. On a CLS the factory front thrust arms have a hollow rubber bushing, and it's way too soft, allowing the wheels to "steer" back and forth a little with normal running vibration. This wears a pattern on the inside edge of the tire very quickly. New replacement thrust arms have solid rubber bushings. That helps a little and allows you to run less toe because of less flex. Less toe-in helps a lot.
The toe-in eats your tires, the negative camber concentrates it on the inside edge.
I had to win this battle because I drive a hundred miles a day.
The front gave me the most trouble with it's rhythmic vibrations driving me nuts. On a CLS the factory front thrust arms have a hollow rubber bushing, and it's way too soft, allowing the wheels to "steer" back and forth a little with normal running vibration. This wears a pattern on the inside edge of the tire very quickly. New replacement thrust arms have solid rubber bushings. That helps a little and allows you to run less toe because of less flex. Less toe-in helps a lot.
The toe-in eats your tires, the negative camber concentrates it on the inside edge.
I had to win this battle because I drive a hundred miles a day.
12-15-2015, 10:04 PM
#56
Junior Member
OK guys this is the solution to all you guys vibration problem, I had the same problem and after so many ideas and opinions I solved my problem with this ,after forced balancing, the tire on the wheel is wet from the lubrication they use to set the tire on the wheel properly, now it's perfect but when you go on the road and test drive it from the massive power and heavy-weight of the car it spins the tire on the wheel from hard taking of and braking ,if you drive like an old lady to to test it is guarantee to it will never vibrat any more ,or did test and it work ,now you have to take really easy for a day or so till that lubrication **** dries.
Let me know what happen you will surprised.
Good luck
Ck out pictures and what I mean Mark the tire with wheel and you can if you drive hard it will spin and move ,if u don't it will work .
Let me know what happen you will surprised.
Good luck
Ck out pictures and what I mean Mark the tire with wheel and you can if you drive hard it will spin and move ,if u don't it will work .
12-16-2015, 06:55 AM
#60
MBWorld Fanatic!
There is something that never even occurred to me. I just ran 30,000 miles before the vibration started creeping back, so I don't think mine slipped, but I will definitely mark the next set of tires!
Thanks for the insight!
Thanks for the insight!
12-16-2015, 03:00 PM
#61
Senior Member
Thread Starter
OK guys this is the solution to all you guys vibration problem, I had the same problem and after so many ideas and opinions I solved my problem with this ,after forced balancing, the tire on the wheel is wet from the lubrication they use to set the tire on the wheel properly, now it's perfect but when you go on the road and test drive it from the massive power and heavy-weight of the car it spins the tire on the wheel from hard taking of and braking ,if you drive like an old lady to to test it is guarantee to it will never vibrat any more ,or did test and it work ,now you have to take really easy for a day or so till that lubrication **** dries.
Let me know what happen you will surprised.
Good luck
Ck out pictures and what I mean Mark the tire with wheel and you can if you drive hard it will spin and move ,if u don't it will work .
Let me know what happen you will surprised.
Good luck
Ck out pictures and what I mean Mark the tire with wheel and you can if you drive hard it will spin and move ,if u don't it will work .
I just had new front tires installed and it was running vibration free for the first day or so and then vibration returned.
12-20-2015, 10:04 PM
#64
Junior Member
12-20-2015, 10:08 PM
#65
Senior Member
Thread Starter
UPDATE:
Took the drive shaft out today to replace the flex discs and support/bearing. The support is toast! There was a ton of movement in there. Unfortunately, the one that was sent was incorrect as were the flex discs (both ordered from separate places). New, hopefully correct, replacements will be here by Wednesday. I will report back once the parts are in and results are determined.
Took the drive shaft out today to replace the flex discs and support/bearing. The support is toast! There was a ton of movement in there. Unfortunately, the one that was sent was incorrect as were the flex discs (both ordered from separate places). New, hopefully correct, replacements will be here by Wednesday. I will report back once the parts are in and results are determined.
12-20-2015, 10:20 PM
#66
Junior Member
I wish you good luck with that ,drive shafft could cause all kind issues and vibration. But again mine is all gone ,I love driving my car more now drives smothered all speeds .
12-20-2015, 10:21 PM
#67
Junior Member
12-21-2015, 07:22 AM
#69
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Join Date: Jun 2014
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09 S550, 08 Charger Srt8, 63 Ford Galaxie 500, 07 GSXR1000
UPDATE:
Took the drive shaft out today to replace the flex discs and support/bearing. The support is toast! There was a ton of movement in there. Unfortunately, the one that was sent was incorrect as were the flex discs (both ordered from separate places). New, hopefully correct, replacements will be here by Wednesday. I will report back once the parts are in and results are determined.
Took the drive shaft out today to replace the flex discs and support/bearing. The support is toast! There was a ton of movement in there. Unfortunately, the one that was sent was incorrect as were the flex discs (both ordered from separate places). New, hopefully correct, replacements will be here by Wednesday. I will report back once the parts are in and results are determined.
I want to check my flex discs over the holiday break.
12-21-2015, 11:49 AM
#70
Member
To check your disks all you need to do is jack up the rear, support with jack stands, and then take a pry bar to the rear flex disk. If you see the slightest if cracks in the rubber then replace them. If one has cracks the other one will to.
Last edited by fireman685; 12-21-2015 at 11:53 AM.
12-24-2015, 06:06 PM
#71
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Welp, replaced the flex discs and center support mount and there is no improvement. While the driveshaft was out of the vehicle we noticed the u-joint had a decent amount of play. I am going to order a used drive shaft rear section and see if that helps. The rest of the rear end seems nice and tight. I don't know what else it could possibly be.
12-25-2015, 08:10 AM
#72
MBWorld Fanatic!
Is there a uniform resistance to rotating each wheel by hand? Does it make a continuous swishing/rubbing/soft grating sound as the rotor spins through the brake pads?
Nick
Nick
12-25-2015, 02:59 PM
#73
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E55, GLS450, GL63, GLE350
Also to the above, jack the car up so the tire is juuuuust touching the floor. Rotate each tire and see if it makes continuous contact or if it is harder to turn in spots. I recommend going out for a 15 minute drive to eliminate flat spotting from the tires sitting. Make sure the car is on a level surface when you are testing the roundress of your wheels/tires. This will eliminate the wheels/tire roundness from the equation.
I've used this technique to chase down mystery vibrations. Turned out the wheel was slightly bent and another time I had a spacer that was improperly aligned.
I've used this technique to chase down mystery vibrations. Turned out the wheel was slightly bent and another time I had a spacer that was improperly aligned.
12-25-2015, 08:21 PM
#74
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Also to the above, jack the car up so the tire is juuuuust touching the floor. Rotate each tire and see if it makes continuous contact or if it is harder to turn in spots. I recommend going out for a 15 minute drive to eliminate flat spotting from the tires sitting. Make sure the car is on a level surface when you are testing the roundress of your wheels/tires. This will eliminate the wheels/tire roundness from the equation.
I've used this technique to chase down mystery vibrations. Turned out the wheel was slightly bent and another time I had a spacer that was improperly aligned.
I've used this technique to chase down mystery vibrations. Turned out the wheel was slightly bent and another time I had a spacer that was improperly aligned.
I took all the wheels to a wheel shop for repair and they are all within .015" tolerance, however, after that I had them road force balanced and one of them could not be. I don't know why. That being said, the vibration comes and goes (vibrates for 2-3 seconds, gets smooth and then vibrates for 2-3 seconds) and if it was a tire that should not happen.
Does the drive shaft sections have to be aligned with one another since there are two sections? I keep referring back to drive shaft because this feels like a rather heavy undulation given the frequency of the rotation and the alternation from rough to smooth.
I have a Mag Base and Indicator that I will use to check for bends in the shaft and for difference in play relative between front and rear shaft sections. I will also use it to see if there are any axle issues. No one has mentioned CV joints as a possibility.......thoughts on this?
