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Just watched the YouTube video. Your story is great, I learned how do do bodywork in a very similar way and the pride you get from a job like that is a great feeling.
I have an 03 s600 with Yellow Speed Racing coilovers also. My spring rate is now 20kg in the front and 14kg in the back...tried 20kg originally in the back but was too stiff. Just wondering if your damper settings are still 23 in the front and 19 in the back, as I can't seem to get a good balance between normal surface street driving and higher freeway speeds...either a little to stiff or too bouncy still. I realize our cars are not the same in weight or weight ratio but, it seems you have experimented as I have with damper settings. Strange, the settings don't seem to be consistent or predictable...at least my impression. Your current thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated. BTW, I'm on 275/40/18 on rear tires and 255/45/18 in front at about 26" to bottom of wheel arch in front and 27" in back.
I think I have pretty much the same symptoms but this is on my 215. I tried 16kg rear springs and it made the “bounce” worse in some speeds, better in other. But I settled on my 20/14kg springs. Has anybody found an ideal combo of springs, and settings that gives the car a more stable feeling over large dips in the road? The car has that “bounce” a lot of people complain about, and I’m not sure I can recommend this kit over the more stable, strutmasters kit. Unfortunately
With the front lowered to 25.75 inches from ground to bottom of fender, wheel alignment revealed -2 degrees front camber. Prior to 4-wheel alignment, stock MB camber bolts were placed in the front W220 lower control arms, and in the stock rear lower control arms. Turning the camber bolts, the technician was able to bring front camber to -1.5 degrees. Raising the front 1" to 26.5 inches brought camber to spec. and still gave a lowered appearance. The rear height was left at 27.5 inches, an inch higher than my liking. Dampening: from softest setting; 20 front, 15 rear. Road manners and handling: flat roads with corners felt smooth and handled with ease. At high speeds (75+ mph) moderate road dips (troughs) caused the suspension to bounce excessively. The Rennen's fitted with 295's and spacers rubbed with the outer lip of the fenders. This loss of suspension control at 75+ mph got hairier with corners with moderate road dips...the bouncing caused the rear to almost slide out and the front to under steer. The ride home from office: dampening was set at 25 front, 20 rear. This firmed the ride a bit but an absence of moderate dips in the road didn't allow for testing road manners at 75+ mph. The car handled corners better when it was lower and front camber was -2 degrees. The next ride height adjustment to lower the rear will necessitate another alignment, here I'll instruct the technician to allow for a small amount more negative camber, perhaps -1.5 degree. Tomorrow the front 255/35 19" Yokohamas are being replaced by Hankook Ventus to match the rear Hankook Ventus 295/30 19". Impression: despite continuing to adjust the Yellow Speed Sport coil-overs, the weight of the 2003-06 CL55 AMG may be too much of a match for the YSP 20k/14k struts/springs, this despite losing approx. 100 lbs. from deleting some exhaust and all ABC suspension components (next week the car will be weighed; 4250 lbs to 4150 lbs?). Higher rate springs? If this; will they overcome the strut dampening. As an attempt to lessen bounce, the next trial involves lowering the rear 1" to 26.5". If this proves to help, the rear fenders will have to be rolled as a means to clear the tires under full compression. From install, the YSP have approx. 400 miles on them. Today the Strut Master ABC delete module goes in to turn off all ABC warning messages.
Wow, I could’ve wrote this exactly myself. Same situation with the 20/14 setup. Have you tried adding sways yet? Some have told me it will help with the bounce issue, not Sure I can see how sways would help with a bouncy rear end?
one thing I did was install rear adjustable camber arms on the rear, helps with the inner tire wear these cars are known for, and helps manipulate the rears for more fitment options
I highly recommend these guys, the design is genius really. You are able to better control what shape/footprint your contact patch of your tire has too
Can someone tell me what year/model of the power steering pump of the s500 is? I am about to order the yellow speed and want to have all the parts ready. Thanks for your time.
It will accept the 2000-2005 power steering pump. Just make sure it has that triangle shaped bracket attached. I believe that same bracket comes on the ML55 pump. Either way...you need it to attach properly and securely to the OEM holes. Order also the tank/fluid reservoir for the steering pump. You will modify the original abc tube in order to connect from reservoir to pump.
I have a set of Yellowspeed coilovers coming Friday along with new tires and the rear camber kit from Snoozie. I'll post my results and photos when completed in my own thread so not to clutter it up here. I should have read Travis's post about the Ceika ones...I could have saved 200 bucks! lolo!
What happened to my signature and post count??? WTF!
I have a set of Yellowspeed coilovers coming Friday along with new tires and the rear camber kit from Snoozie. I'll post my results and photos when completed in my own thread so not to clutter it up here. I should have read Travis's post about the Ceika ones...I could have saved 200 bucks! lolo!
What happened to my signature and post count??? WTF!
after installing and trying all three I recommend a modified strutmasters setup. A guy with a rear mount turbo cl600 installed stiffer springs on his and you can have the springs sized/trimmed to a more desirable ride height. After all the finicky adjustments to get yellow speed driveable I’ll never get another set until they have better shocks
too many hours wasted trying differing spring rates, preload settings and such just to have a semi-adequate kit when finished
im at the st pete Benz dealer now if you ever need any help with anything
Last edited by ctravis595; 12-07-2019 at 11:51 AM.
There is only front and rear Toe (directional adjustment) on the W215
No front Camber and Caster or rear Camber allowing to adjust tire contact angles. Essential to allow more even tire wear, resolve costly, premature edge wear.
We manufacture therefore complete front and rear kits allowing precise, ongoing single wrench adjustment to cater for other than showroom height conditions.
The link is our latest 2020 Mercedes Catalog(https://www.kmacal********/kmac-mercedes-catalogs/). Front kits provide Cambe and Caster. Rear Camber (with extra Toe to compensate for the new rear Camber facility).
Hi
i have had these on for 12 months.
I’ve had a knock coming from the rear left passenger area. Sounds like a loose top nut on the strutt. But the strut was replaced on warranty a few weeks ago and the knock is still there. My mechanic said all bushes look fine.
Any ideas be much appreciated
Very nice detailed write up! Did you add adjustable toe and camber arms to the rear too, so as to get better rear alignment. My tires would wear out the inside edges every 4k miles, until I could get them flat on the ground.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
I think im going yellowspeed for coil-overs. Strutmasters includes the valve blocks so you can use the same tandem pump. Is there a kit sold so you can use the same tandem pump with the yellowspeeds somewhere?
It will accept the 2000-2005 power steering pump. Just make sure it has that triangle shaped bracket attached. I believe that same bracket comes on the ML55 pump. Either way...you need it to attach properly and securely to the OEM holes. Order also the tank/fluid reservoir for the steering pump. You will modify the original abc tube in order to connect from reservoir to pump.
I read through this thread again and I am confused (with my limited knowledge). My plan is to replace the struts and remove the ABC system, so question is:
- Is it necessary to replace the power steering pump?
- I have been searching online, seems there are two models for s500; with or without ABC, which one I should buy?
It's been very difficult for the past few years so fixing this car is a lower priority. Lucky enough, I am able to revisit this project
I read through this thread again and I am confused (with my limited knowledge). My plan is to replace the struts and remove the ABC system, so question is:
- Is it necessary to replace the power steering pump?
- I have been searching online, seems there are two models for s500; with or without ABC, which one I should buy?
It's been very difficult for the past few years so fixing this car is a lower priority. Lucky enough, I am able to revisit this project
It is the same pump in all of Mercedes V8 models of those years, plus the triangle shaped bracket that is needed. Only some models included that bracket.
Thanks. Does that mean replaces the tandem pump with PS pump is optional? I just found this thread, in line with your recommendations. https://mbworld.org/forums/cl-class-...ring-pump.html
Did you go with the YS kit? Is it a slant or flat mount?
Thanks. Does that mean replaces the tandem pump with PS pump is optional? I just found this thread, in line with your recommendations. https://mbworld.org/forums/cl-class-...ring-pump.html
Did you go with the YS kit? Is it a slant or flat mount?
Yes, I went with the YellowSpeed Racing coilovers. Slanted. Replacing the ABC pump is optional. You can run the ABC side dry or block it off. Or even bypass it back to the reservoir. Or……in order to lighten the car and simplify the system, you can transition to a simple ps pump.
Great. How is the conversion? How did you deal with the ABC warning message? StrutsMaster is pricing at $400 for the light fix module. I might go with the remove fuses route. Ordered a set from redline360 for $1276 shipped - the best pricing I can find online.
Great. How is the conversion? How did you deal with the ABC warning message? StrutsMaster is pricing at $400 for the light fix module. I might go with the remove fuses route. Ordered a set from redline360 for $1276 shipped - the best pricing I can find online.
This is me. Look at this and my other videos on my CL55. A lot of content.
01-02-2019, 02:21 PM
