CL65 Issues after Tune
07-23-2018, 05:28 PM
#3
I do not know what the issue is with the transmission code (Eurocharged can help I am sure).
As for the misfire issue, it could the coilpack but could also be the power supply for the coils in the center of the engine (the ignition transformer). When these go bad, they can cause power to one side to be affected. Be careful-do not drive like this too much as you will damage the catalytic converters due to the amount of unburned fuel entering the cats (that is why the code says "damages TWC").
Here is a useful post that is similar to yours-ended up being the ignition transformer/power supply:
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...e-problem.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...-function.html
Best,
As for the misfire issue, it could the coilpack but could also be the power supply for the coils in the center of the engine (the ignition transformer). When these go bad, they can cause power to one side to be affected. Be careful-do not drive like this too much as you will damage the catalytic converters due to the amount of unburned fuel entering the cats (that is why the code says "damages TWC").
Here is a useful post that is similar to yours-ended up being the ignition transformer/power supply:
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...e-problem.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...-function.html
Best,
07-24-2018, 07:26 PM
#6
Man don't panic. Your coil pack was on its way out. As seeing the codes are misfires for 7,8,9 replace the drivers side coil pack. Don't worry about the transformer for now its likely fine because your codes aren't sporadic for both banks. Even tho you flashed back to stock and it still happens it just means the coil pack was pushed to its limit on the tune and now back to stock it still can't handle it. Been there done there on multiple m275 cars I've owned same situation. I say 9 out of 10 it's just the drivers coil pack for now. But if the passengers one is older it's on its way out as well.
Love the 215 65s and still have mine. And since you asked, the mirror tint is horrendous for my taste. Reminds me of late 90s when everyone was rocking it, glad those days are gone.
Love the 215 65s and still have mine. And since you asked, the mirror tint is horrendous for my taste. Reminds me of late 90s when everyone was rocking it, glad those days are gone.
07-24-2018, 08:04 PM
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Nothing to panic about, just put a pair of coil packs on it and enjoy. They are original i'm assuming, and after 13 years, when you increase the demand on the electronics with the tune, they die. Not a big deal, and the replacement ones will last you another 13 years in most cases. Nothing "dreaded" about the coil pack failure, it's a big, expensive car and it's full of big, expensive parts. Replace and carry on. I had to do my left side coil not long after my tune, I did the igniter also at the same time, just to have it all new (had done right side prior due to breaking during removal) and get the latest version (part has been changed about 4 times over the years).
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07-25-2018, 07:29 PM
#9
Thanks guys. @ 1ForcedBenz, The original codes that came up included cylinder 6 which is from the passenger side if I am not mistaken, but when I flashed it back to stock, the codes were all drivers side, so I guess I will just get both coil packs. Yeah, that tint and the mirrors were so hideous that they had to go right away!
@ ItalainJoe1, I believe they are the originals, my left side p/n is A 275 150 05 80 Q1 and right is A 275 150 04 80 Q1. The only reason that I am having a little bit of a freak out is the fact the the MB dealer here in town wants $3000 per side for the coil packs!!!! That's not installed BTW
If anyone can help me out with the best place to purchase the most recent part numbers at the best price, I would be forever greatful. I am not sure if driver side p/n A 275 150 07 80 Q3 and passenger A 275 150 06 80 Q4 are the latest update. Thanks again everyone!
@ ItalainJoe1, I believe they are the originals, my left side p/n is A 275 150 05 80 Q1 and right is A 275 150 04 80 Q1. The only reason that I am having a little bit of a freak out is the fact the the MB dealer here in town wants $3000 per side for the coil packs!!!! That's not installed BTW
If anyone can help me out with the best place to purchase the most recent part numbers at the best price, I would be forever greatful. I am not sure if driver side p/n A 275 150 07 80 Q3 and passenger A 275 150 06 80 Q4 are the latest update. Thanks again everyone!
For the coilpacks, to my knowledge the Q code is not the date code on the coilpack. The code on the bottom right is the date code. Example would be 06W45 which would mean 2006 in 45th week.
If you are on the original coilpack, then the date code will be 2004, 2005, etc. Your dealer quote is ridiculous.
parts.mbfm.com has then for $1,050 per side and that is original mercedes from dealer which would be newest part. 2751500680 2751500780
07-25-2018, 08:44 PM
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
If they are the 480/580 part # they are old. Get the new ones. Cost is under 1k per side, so you should be able to find them at about $1050-1100/ea as mentioned.
The Q1 is a revision thing. If the part is updated but not so much as to change the part #, they change that Q #. The transformer is up to Q3 or Q4 now.
The Q1 is a revision thing. If the part is updated but not so much as to change the part #, they change that Q #. The transformer is up to Q3 or Q4 now.
07-26-2018, 01:19 AM
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
Most 600/65 guys end up changing their coil packs after the tune
07-27-2018, 01:18 PM
#13
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Join Date: Oct 2014
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2008 S63, 2012 E550, 2005 E55, 2005 SL55, 2013 SL63, 2020 AMG GT, 1994, 1998, 1999, 2001 SL500
Just a thought - Haven't used them but could be a better resource than the dealer.
http://www.v12icpack.com/
http://www.v12icpack.com/
07-27-2018, 02:57 PM
#14
Ok, so I got another quote from an MB dealer outside of Detroit(25 min drive across the border)...$1475 each, which equals out to approx. which equals out to like $3835 CDN...wish the exchange rate wasn't so ridiculous. I looked at parts.mbfm.com and it wouldn't show up at all for a price, but I will give them a shout tomorrow.
As far as testing the voltage transformer, maybe I am understanding the procedure wrong, as posted in a link in MooksM275's post, it states to turn the ignition off for 3 mins disconnect the connector and there should be 23V @ pin 7 and 8, and then 180V @pin 9 and 16...this does not prove to be true in my case. Here is what I did, I turned the ignition to the on position, but did not start the car, held it there for a minute or so, then turned the ignition off, waited 3 mins, and checked for voltage @ the pins (I did this at the transformer itself (male pins) and also at the wires(female pins) and was only seeing like 9-12v=V @ pins 9 and 16, so I know something is not right. I do not want to do it with the key in the ignition on position, as it clearly states to have ignition off, even though it makes more sense to have it in the on position to check. Maybe someone can hold my hand for this test (FYI I am fully capable and know how to use my multimeter)
As far as testing the voltage transformer, maybe I am understanding the procedure wrong, as posted in a link in MooksM275's post, it states to turn the ignition off for 3 mins disconnect the connector and there should be 23V @ pin 7 and 8, and then 180V @pin 9 and 16...this does not prove to be true in my case. Here is what I did, I turned the ignition to the on position, but did not start the car, held it there for a minute or so, then turned the ignition off, waited 3 mins, and checked for voltage @ the pins (I did this at the transformer itself (male pins) and also at the wires(female pins) and was only seeing like 9-12v=V @ pins 9 and 16, so I know something is not right. I do not want to do it with the key in the ignition on position, as it clearly states to have ignition off, even though it makes more sense to have it in the on position to check. Maybe someone can hold my hand for this test (FYI I am fully capable and know how to use my multimeter)
I would start by testing the normal pins line battery voltage and ground and then go to the bigger ones.
Here is another test procedure doc that says that engine must be running over 1000 rpm and with load?
Another link about the problem: https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...e-problem.html
07-29-2018, 08:39 AM
#18
Why are you / we all still talking about this. OP buy the coils and move on already. This is beating a dead horse, like you said you were aware of the possibility of the coils failing but seem to be pondering on what to do. Pay to play.
07-29-2018, 04:37 PM
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
.
THIS ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...lattering.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...d-5k-loss.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/cl55-amg-...-tcu-tune.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/505228-shardul.html
OP - Please read the above threads -
You do not want to purchase used coils -
I have both the ECU and TCU tunes from Eurocharged
and am extremely happy with the tunes / customer service -
Thank-You
D.B.
.
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...lattering.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...d-5k-loss.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/cl55-amg-...-tcu-tune.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/505228-shardul.html
OP - Please read the above threads -
You do not want to purchase used coils -
I have both the ECU and TCU tunes from Eurocharged
and am extremely happy with the tunes / customer service -
Thank-You
D.B.
.
07-29-2018, 05:20 PM
#20
Member
Where to get your coil packs
Get your coil pad is from FCP they have good prices and they come with a lifetime warranty. They give a lifetime warranty on all there parts.
07-30-2018, 04:58 PM
#23
MBWorld Fanatic!
`
Yes -
Please update this thread with the results once installed -
Thank-You
D.B.
`
Originally Posted by Blakdout65
I am excited to have it back up and running asap
Please update this thread with the results once installed -
Thank-You
D.B.
`
08-13-2018, 08:24 PM
#25
Senior Member
I have been in the exact spot you are in. I ended up having the same issues after changing plugs. Made the big mistake of not checking the gaps. When I pulled them back out they were about .045. I closed them down to the factory spec around .020 and have not had any coil pack problems since. Might try that before buying coil packs.
