wiring
 

Do you know where the wiring that connects to the brake switch light leads to? My car is missing the brake light switch and I do not see the wiring. 2004 c230

I have a 2001 C240 will it fit, if so I want it. I changed my battery today.
 

mine came on today after my batteries been dead for a week now.

Just went through all the reports and did not see what happened to me. Sorry, just noticed that there are 5 more pages! I must not be alone.
Here goes. I think my problem with having the ABS warning come on must be heat related. Driving first time this year when the weather got hot everything worked fine, but after we stopped for lunch and started to drive again, the ABS warning came on.
Driving home in the late afternoon, he engine started with the warning on, butt after driving a minute, it reset itself and the light went out!
Stopped for gas and when we began to drive the warning was back.
At home this morning the engine started with the warning on but again reset it itself. Drove about 9 miles, stopped for half an hour then drove home and everything was NORMAL!
I am beginning to think that there is enough air circulation while driving to keep something from overheating and when you stop, heat builds up under the hood and triggers the warning.
I suspect the ABS module might do that. Anyone have different thoughts?

If that happened on your ML, you might have a problem with the ebox fan, it's known to fail eventually and it's role is to keep the ESP module cool.

2000 Mercedes Benz clk430 AMG convertible
 

So i have have been having this esp bas no brake light problem on and off for the last 6 months. I have replaced the stop lamp switch 9 times in 6 months one of them being from the dealership at $300. I have replaced it 4 times this month. The first three worked for about a week before i ended up with no brake lights once again. Now when i replace the stop lamp switch it does nothing. I have tried resetting the computer by turning my steering wheel left to right to the stops and nothing changed. I tried pulling the stop lamp fuse from the headlight fuse box with the key on not started and it did not work this time. In the past that worked now it does not. i love this car with a passion but due to these problems i have only been able to put 4000 miles on the car in a years time. the car is going to the shop again on the first when I get paid. This car has already been to the shop 4 times this year 2 times for the bas esp no brake light issue, once for a transmission shift computer replacement at $3000 and once for a rear hub assembly. Now that those other two problems are fixed and good to go i have this ever constant bas esp no brake light issue pestering me with no end in sight. I know that once i figure out what the problem is and fix it i will be good to go. Any ideas on what could be causing so many stop light switches to go bad and now that wont even fix the problem? i am at a loss at this moment.

Hey All,

Around January this year I had the same problem, I booked it in at an MB workshop, they cleaned the throttle body costing me around $300 (3000ZAR).

The same problem started at least 2 days ago, glad to have read this, I was told should the problem appear again, I'd have to replace the throttle body costing at least $1800:crazy:.

Will be replacing both brake switch and accelerator sensor now and see what it does...

Thanks Guys, very helpful indeed...:y

Still driving the old 1987 300D Turbo (285,000 miles) and now I know what turns on my ABS light: it's the right front speed sensor cable, making ground in a right turn. Stepping on the brakes during the turn makes the brake pedal thump. ;-) If you over do it, the ABS light comes on and stays on until you restart the engine. Shutting the engine off resets the ABS to normal. ;-)

@Fritza,

I totally agree to that, we having a fairly cold morning in Johannesburg, South Africa. for the first few miles I haven't had any issues with the warning appearing, I was overjoyed but then when the engine temperature picked up and the warning came back on, very frustrating indeed. Will only be able to take care of this issue over the weekend... Are there any sensors on the brake calipers perhaps??? Ive noticed that after cleaning my "BABY", the situation is worse especially after hosing down the wheels... Just another possibility to consider...

TimmyJ,
Re-reading one of my earlier comments I remembered that a few years ago I replaced the ignition key lock and that resolved my issue with warning lights coming on. Things do wear out. :-)

My son has a 2000 CLK320. He started getting intermittent ESP/ABS lights but the brake lights worked. He replaced the switch on the pedal and the lights went away. Three weeks go by and the lights return..switch okay, fuse under hood on left side blown, he took it for a road trip and the lights returned and no brake lights. That fuse, the one on the left of the dash, and the switch all check good, but still no lights. HELP

I dont know how many times I've read this type of response !?

The brake switch is nothing to do with the function of the brake lights !!!!

If you are getting intermittent ABS EBS etc on your dash then it will more than likely be resolved by fitting a new brake switch but you need to be genuine Mercedes not OEM, takes 10 mins to fit with no tools apart from remiving the footwell cover.

On rare occasions its a faulty wheel speed sensor but often dirt between the gear tooth effecting the hall effect nature of the sensor.

I need Help.!! Please
 

I changed the break lamp switch but the lights still come on after a few & the breaks make a rattle noise when not applied... what else could it be please help.!!! Thanks

Hi, I have changed the switch under the footwell cover but I am still getting EPS error on my dash, <!> sign, tyre pressure monitor faulty... What is this dirt you're talking about? I read about an expensive sensor underneath the steering wheel but I'd rather try other solutions before spending around 300 $ for the spare part plus the work.

Thanks for any possible hint!

PS: I am also getting the speed limit to 120 km/h, can't get any faster.

since this is your first post, I'm going to go simple....have you turned the wheel all the way left, all the way right and then center with key in pos #2?....eps has to be reset when new battery

Don't remember if I've done this already since it's been quite a few months since I am experiencing this problem.

It actually started very seldom but then it kinda goes on frequently. Looks like it depends on the outside temperature, maybe. Anyway it's never always on, plus, I sometimes reset the type pressure monitor and if I leave the board on the "tyre pressure monitor active" or something like that, just after resetting, the ESP, <!> light and speed limit (they all come out together) will more likely "resist" :-D

I'll try the ESP reset as you suggested and let you know. Should I expect any message to come out on the board for confirmation?

Thanks again for now!

nope ...just that the warning lights disappear.

Your B200 Turbo is a completely different vehicle then the CLK class.

Suggest you repost in this B class forum: https://mbworld.org/forums/b-class-w245-w246-183/

Hi, for some reason I just noticed I have written in W208 forum while I have a W245 B200 Turbo.

I have tried the reset you suggested but assume it's not working because it is the W208's procedure.

Anyway, I have reset the tyre pressure measure monitor several times, and the ESP + tyre pressure monitor not working warnings come out only at times. They are not there regularly as soon as I turn on the car.

Thanks for helping.

bas esp abs
 

Had my 2002 S500 shipped.. when I arrived the car was running and I jumped in and drove it home. The next time in it.. started fine and got the three warning lights and car wouldn't shift out of park. I read that you could remove the knob on the shifter and hit the top with a hammer as you pull level towards D N M and it worked.. replaced the brake light switch as another problem is my brake lights are "on" and don't go out when the car is running. I've tried running codes and clearing them.. with no luck..but, at least it will drive..hope that gets your car home.. but, I really wish someone would get me further in this adventure..look strange smacking my gear shift lever every time I use my car... lol

Guys, thank you for this thread. I was having the ESP/ABS warning and my car was going into limp mode after a few minutes whether it was being driven or not. This happened immediately after getting a tuneup which included getting the spark plug wires changed. Culprit turned out to be bad ABS/ESP module which most likely was knocked around during the tune up. I was able to get a used one of of ebay for $90, which was a deal bc they cost $700 new. The part swap took about 10 mins and after a year for sitting the car was back on the road again. Thanks again for all the commentors who offered their help in this thread. Steve

TMJ ...
which fuse box is it located in.. left right or under the rear seat?

not a fuse box, its actually a module on the ABS pump. See http://www.mercedesmedic.com/bas-esp-abs-mercedes-benz/ for the fault description and various possible fixes. The part number for the module is 0345457832 and here is the listing for the part I bought https://www.ebay.com/itm/183635804547. He actually sent me the module and the pump and just took the module off of it to replace the broken one in the engine bay. Here is the video I watched to know how to actually change it Hope this helps others who have the same issue.

Thanks so much for the information...

I had my 90k mi, 2010 GLK350 throw a MAF code. I lifted the hood and noticed, following an oil change, the indy shop dislodged the air intake hose. I reconnected it but no change. So I ordered a replacement MAF unit. While I was operating the GLK awaiting the part the Check Engine Light remained on. The part arrived. Then, bingo, the Check Engine light went off and has remained off for past two weeks.

Newb to MB with new to me 2003 CLK430 (w208) that I bought with these codes already on (ABS, ESP & BAS). I've spent hours over months searching online for the solution (bringing me to this thread) and still can't get this sorted.

So far I have gone through the reset procedures listed herein 3 times at this point. I have replaced the brake switch and bought correct iCarsoft code reader and adapter which reads fine but won't tell me what's wrong with these. My only thought at this point is that the steering wheel is about 5 degrees off (and to reiterate, I have done all the resets including this one but probably more like 10 times). So I'm wondering if an alignment to get the steering wheel aligned will fix it? Or is there something else I should be looking for?

Thanks so much and I apologise if this is a common topic but I haven't found the solution here yet