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-   -   BAS, ESP, ABS problem.....DIY repair (https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-w208/125080-bas-esp-abs-problem-diy-repair.html)

bbearden 10-30-2005 07:34 PM

BAS, ESP, ABS problem.....DIY repair
 
Had my damn ABS, ESP and BAS lights come on again in my ride on the 405 today. :mad: Looked back at my receipts and I had the stop lamp switch replaced just over a year ago (special thanks to Bosch for their inferior electronics). Light seems to come on after the car is started and the brakes are applied. I decided that I would attempt to repair it myself versus paying the stealership $75 for a 15 minute repair job. Stop lamp switches run about $15-25 at the dealership and the switch is fairly easy to access after removal of the plastic access panel under our dash. Curious if anyone else has done this and if I need to disconnect the battery after the install to reset everything. I will digital photographs to help others that try this in the future. Realize though that the problem could potentially be a wheel sensor so we'll see what happens and if this fixes it. The error code is 1584 for a faulty stop lamp switch for those with access to diagnostics. Will hopefully save me some $$$ this time!

bbearden 10-31-2005 08:16 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Picked up the stop lamp switch today and installed it and it seems to have fixed the problem. To replace the switch, you will first need to remove the 4 phillips head screws (see pic one) that hold the access panel in place. There are three along the sides of the panel and one near the hood release handle. You will then locate the stop lamp switch by following the brake pedal up until you find a black pastic switch with two small wiring harnesses connected to it (see second pic). Remove the switch by pushing the attached pastic lever and rotating it clockwise. It will then free itself from its position and you can remove the two harnesses. Installation takes place in the reverse order. Took me 15 minutes for the job and another 10 to sip a cold beer afterwards. Cheers! :)

Co 55 AMG 10-31-2005 08:55 PM

Too cool! Thanks for the write up and pics. Moderator how about putting this in the how to's. :y

Co 55 AMG 11-03-2005 09:26 PM

bump

f4iman78 11-05-2005 12:42 AM

After replacement of the switch, you will want to pull up on the brake pedal slightly to set for proper adjustment of the switch. MB use to have you put a 2mm spacer (2 radio key worked) between the switch and stop for correct adjustment, but they changed the design so no need for the spacer.Just wanted to give a little extra info, but you provided some good DIY info .

Co 55 AMG 11-08-2005 11:48 PM


Originally Posted by Co 55 AMG
Too cool! Thanks for the write up and pics. Moderator how about putting this in the how to's. :y

What about it ricky? :y

Co 55 AMG 11-23-2005 11:21 PM

Part Number?
 
Anyone know the part number for this switch?

vraa 11-23-2005 11:26 PM

You guys gotta PM me or something about merging or whatever, I rarely check this forum.

As for integrating it into the How to, I think it'll serve a better purpose as a seperate thread. :)

benzmodz 11-24-2005 12:26 AM


Originally Posted by ricky.agrawal
You guys gotta PM me or something about merging or whatever, I rarely check this forum.

As for integrating it into the How to, I think it'll serve a better purpose as a seperate thread. :)

You do of course realise that thanks for white elephants like TOW thread that grow for no good reason that this thread will eventually be pushed out of this forum like some many other useful pages about modding.

vraa 11-24-2005 12:29 AM


Originally Posted by benzmodz
You do of course realise that thanks for white elephants like TOW thread that grow for no good reason that this thread will eventually be pushed out of this forum like some many other useful pages about modding.

Those are in off topic only.
If you find anything that doesn't abide by the TOS or common civilty, please alert me so I can address it properly :)

J Lucas 11-26-2005 10:02 PM

This has got to be sticky.

Co 55 AMG 11-29-2005 09:44 PM

Part Number
 
Part number for this switch on my 01' W208 is 001-545-64-09 cost $13.80. Took all off 15 mins, maybe less. Shout out to bbearden for the tip. Saved me time and money.Next Blower Switch! :wall:

zonajoe 03-19-2006 01:53 PM

Nice Job Bbearden, I had the same problem with my 2001 CLK55 24,000 miles. I followed your recommendation and the easy change of switch seems to have fixed the problem. Cost me $22.95 for part.
Thank you!!!!

bbearden 03-19-2006 06:02 PM

Glad I could help you out! I don't get worried when I see that light flash these days, knowing how simple the fix is.

zonajoe 03-20-2006 12:19 AM

Any other easy fixes in your bag of tricks

bbearden 03-20-2006 11:04 AM

None other than typical routine maintainance.....fuel/oil/air filter changes. The MAF sensor is an easy fix as well when it goes. Always a good idea to carry a can of CRC mass air folw sensor cleaner in the trunk if you get caught on the road with that problem. Its a good temporary fix until you can get a new sensor in. Thats most of the problems your Benz will have that I have noticed, other than an another occasional electrical gremlin.

zonajoe 03-21-2006 12:18 AM

very helpful thanks

funky102 03-21-2006 09:24 PM

I agree that this should be part of the How To. I have also encountered this problem and will want to look it up. It seems like a lot of other people have this problem too.

Just copy his post, along with the pictures, and insert the part # mentioned in another post to the How To sticky in this forum.

clkgeorge 03-24-2006 05:38 PM

ad me to the list of repaired BAS ESP ABS malfunctions.
I got tired of the three malfunctions everytime I started the car and stepped on the brake pedal. $24 for the switch from the dealer, they have them in stock since it seems to be such a common problem.
5 minute repair and all you need is a screw driver. So nice not to see the yellow lights on the corner of the cluster :y

CurYousGee 04-03-2006 10:20 PM

$17 bucks and some change....and I got this DYI done today. Thanks bbearden for the great write up.

note: I have a 2000 and my stop light switch has 2 big white color harness plugs rather than the black plug and that silver prong you see in the above picture

CurYousGee 04-10-2006 04:06 AM

dayam its back!

ThrillKill 04-10-2006 08:21 AM

It's probably a wheel sensor. Took mine to the stealer as soon as it happened. Cost 3.6 billion dollars to fix but it never came back.

CurYousGee 04-10-2006 10:25 PM

sucks....oh well....i'll try them when I get a chance. Thanks for the input....back to the bas, esp being on again and off again.

mattr2 08-12-2006 11:56 AM

Great thread, maybe just what I need.
 
I think my CLK has the same problem. Did the failure of this switch prevent the car from being moved from park?

newguy2008 08-12-2006 01:13 PM

My CLK has been doing this on and off as well for a year now. I'll get around to changing this soon especially since someone here was nice enough to take some pics explaining how it's done.

It's been a minor annoyance.

Thanks.

CurYousGee 08-12-2006 01:52 PM

nope


Originally Posted by mattr2
I think my CLK has the same problem. Did the failure of this switch prevent the car from being moved from park?


mattr2 08-13-2006 01:44 AM

Actually....yes, problem solved
 
The brake lamp switch controls both the lights and the lever release so the car can be taken out of park when the brake is pressed. I was able to buy the part from the dealer and install it in about 10 minutes. This was a VERY helpful thread.

Thank you!

The Jury 09-29-2006 03:28 AM

Hmmmmm. My brake lights work, shifts from park easily, but I believe I still need to replace mine because I have the yellow lights and the OBC warning. The lights were so bright at night I removed the bulb from the cluster......lol.

Guess I'll swing by MB tomorrow and pick up a switch.

bbearden 10-02-2006 05:39 PM

Failure of the switch actually causes a failure of your stability control as well as anti-lock brakes and brake assist system. While the light on the dash sucks to have come up, these other systems aren't functioning properly. That being said, the car should be driveable in that condition. After figuring out this repair for the stop lamp switch, a MB technician told me that they have started shimming the switch somehow to prevent the rather prnounced failure rate of these switches. I wonder how long before Mercedes realizes that a large number of their subsystem failures and thus repairs are a fault of cheap, inferior Bosch electrical sensors and switches (i.e. MAF, Stop Lamp, etc) !?!?

software 10-06-2006 11:33 PM

What an easy fix
 
After being lazy for far too long and seeing this post - I did it. The POS set me back $17 at the dealer and just a few minutes to replace - very easy. I can't begin to say how annoying those ESP/BAS, ABS, etc. lights and the beeping were. The fact that the cruise control also wouldn't work during an "episode" compounded it. It's back to normal now.

I did kind of enjoy driving the car with all of that stuff disabled (no silly flashing ! in the middle of the dash)!! I could come out of a sharp curve and leave rubber without having to hit the switch on the console...:naughty:

software 10-06-2006 11:37 PM

BTW - my old switch was cooked. It sounded like a baby rattle when I shook it. Obviously a quality item!

zdfun 11-01-2006 03:17 AM

:bow:

Thank you very much! It works!

The Jury 11-01-2006 01:32 PM

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-w208/168715-so-why-we-spending-money-brake-switches.html

stick this here.......

RICLK430 11-01-2006 10:34 PM

Thank You all!!! I just bought a 2002 CLK 430 and right after I arrived home and started checking out the car. I then started it to go for a ride and all those errors started displaying. I thought for sure I bought a lemon. I search for the issue and behold you had it posted. I purchase the switch and installed it in about 5 min ( so simple) Thank you all... Look forward to future correspondence.

Bjorkin 11-02-2006 12:51 AM

LOL at this switch man. Do these lights ever indicate anything other than "it's time to replace the $17 part!" It seems to be a self defeating safety issue if the problem is always a "switch" and not something more sinister with the brake system.

If the light comes on, does everyone who has replaced one just assume it's this switch or did you get your codes read first?

bbearden 11-02-2006 10:00 AM

More often than not, if its numerous lights coming on, its the switch and people just change out the part. However, with this new good intel, I'm just going to clean the part from now on. Why bother buying another cheap switch that will fail down the road when the old one can just be cleaned.

Whodat 11-04-2006 01:54 AM


Originally Posted by bbearden (Post 1331030)
Took me 15 minutes for the job and another 10
to sip a cold beer afterwards. Cheers! :)

10 whole minutes to sip a cold one!? You're losing your touch! *LOL*

bbearden 11-04-2006 02:24 AM

LOL! Gettin' older I guess. Hell I'm just trying to keep the hair on my head as well.:rolf: Just saw "Borat," hilarious! Def go check it out....

Waiby 11-22-2006 12:54 AM

hi, what are the symptoms of this problem? my current issues are ABS/ESP/BAS changes(automatically) on the LCD display, ABS/ESP/BAS lights are constant on the left side of the console. car drives like normal.

issues i had previously, same display as above but the messages on the LCD does not change automatically (have to troggle between), same lights on left side of console are on, also CEL, tachometer not responsive, drives in limp mode, will not switch gears (i assume it was stuck in whichever gear at the time, usually first). was in the same dealer three times while various modules were ordered/replaced. forth time had it towed to another dealer and they blamed it on the fuse box. hasn't occurred since, now my current issues with ABS/BAS/ESP as outline above.

will this switch replacement fix my current problems?? and thank goodness for extended warranty... this was for a 01 w208 430
thx.

zdfun 11-22-2006 03:10 AM

I have this problem 4 days after I bought my CLK 320. It DID scare me. It usually turned on after I drove my car around 15-25 minutes The light was suddenly turn ON. I also noticed that my tail light (the brake light) was ON all the time even I didn't step on the brake.

SeNia_CLK 12-11-2006 10:33 PM


Originally Posted by bbearden (Post 1523265)
Glad I could help you out! I don't get worried when I see that light flash these days, knowing how simple the fix is.

bbearden thanks a lot for the post man, I was a little concerned with this problem at first, going to deal with it right after my last exam on Thursday :woowoo:

bbearden 12-11-2006 10:48 PM

Glad to help you out. Best of luck on your finals!

SeNia_CLK 12-16-2006 05:40 PM

And now got a degree also! Now the plan is to switch CLK320 to a CLS63 AMG Coupe in a few years! :)

NYCLK 12-16-2006 06:42 PM

My light came on after I disconnected the battery. I searched and found out that people 'reset' the light by turning the steering wheel all the way to the right and to the left, then back to straight. It actually worked. I got scared at first.

SeNia_CLK 12-18-2006 08:25 PM

Turns out its my camshaft sensor...another $180 :rolleyes:

AMGEEZY 04-29-2007 01:28 AM

I bought a stop lamp switch and turns out it was the wrong one. If anyone wants to buy it it works with a 99 clk430. $12.00 shipped. PM ME if interested. make sure yours looks like this, i don't believe it works on 2000-UP. Its Brand New Never installed.

ForrestBlackbur 05-03-2007 02:30 AM

SOS - Stuck in Park & Cranks when it wants to, ESP/BAS/Airmatic ERRORS...
 
I've got a a similar issue but with much more kinks...

Friday night the valet brought my 2002 s500 around to the front of the restaurant with no problems. They turned it off and when I was ready to leave, I hopped in, turned it over, nothing. The dash board lights up like a christmas tree giving me a Check Engine light, & ESP, BAS, Airmatic ERROR messages. I turned the automatic headlights off and tried it again, it started. I got it home, started it up the next day, no problem, ABS light on. Went to the grocery store, came out, wont start. And when I say "wont start" I mean won't crank or anything. Its like having your key in the II possition. I tried it a few times and nothing. So I left it there and walk 2 blocks home. I returned later to see if it just need some time to stop hating me and, it started! But wont come out of park.

I replaced the battery, it started, I turned the wheels lock to lock to erase the codes, & then I turned it off. I tried to start it again and nothing. No crank.

It cranks when it wants to and when it does, its stuck in park. Oh and one more thing...the A/C won't work. I noticed that the A/C display was fading on and off that first night on the way home from the restaurant. When the car decides to crank & turn over, the only thing that will get the A/C to do anything is if I hit the REST button. Isn't this only supposed to work when the cars off to push residual hot air off the engine during over heating? -My temp gauge reads normal btw.

SO....with ALL that being said....PLEASE HELP!! My car has been in the Ralph's parking lot for almost a week & no one, not even the dealer can tell me what to do!

Oh, no one will tow it for me because it wont come out of park...????

H.E.L.P.

THANK YOU!

NVDR 05-03-2007 06:40 AM

my ABS, ESP and BAS lights came on after I released the parking brake, after a stop, ignition off and ignition on again it dissapeared. next time it comes back I will follow the write ups. :)

Holson 05-03-2007 10:05 PM

Encountered the same problem. The 1st time round the dealer replaced the brake switch... the 2nd time round, they replaced the brake booster :eek:

Thanks to Starmark, it cost me nothing.

AustinRoxy 05-08-2007 09:29 PM

BAS ABS ESP Etc..... Quick Fix
 
I got these messages after a brisk takeoff and took the car to a European Shop and they said they just needed to clear the codes with their computer. Well that didn't work so they told me I prob had a bad ABS Sensor under the hood next to the BAS sensor.. They wanted obo $475.00
I read the threads obo the stop lamp switch and thanks to the Pics I decided to attempt to remove it to take a look. Really just to see if I could do it.... I disconnected the switch easily and cleaned the end and around it with a cloth, reinserted the switch and now my ESP button on the console works again and no error messages....just by cleaning it slightly!!!! Will check back in to see how long this works for..... 99 CLK 430 THANKS FOR THE PICS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:D

bbearden 05-08-2007 09:58 PM

Glad to see that the fix worked. I am glad to see that someone bothered to tear apart the switch to see how simple the part is...essentially an electrical contact. I will not buy a stop lamp switch the next time I get the ESP/BAS message flashing on my dash. I love MB, but I really wish they would look to other vendors for many of their components (namely sensors). I think this would have a profound affect on their reliability ratings and consumer satisfaction....

AustinRoxy 05-14-2007 09:42 PM

ESP BAS ABS lights on again
 
So I pulled out the switch and cleaned it and the messages went away everything was fine for 2 days and now all the lights are on again so all I did was pull the switch out and put it back in and the lights went out again.....next day Bas ESP ABS lights back on.....What do you all think ? Will a new one correct this????

AMGEEZY 05-14-2007 10:45 PM

A new one will fix the problem, I put one in about 2 weeks ago and I haven't seen that message again. Depending on what year your car is I have a BRAND NEW one never used. I bought it but it was the wrong part for my car and I couldn't return it. I'll sell it to you for $12.00 shipped. Just PM me.

takaseem 05-15-2007 01:54 AM

2 days ago I changed the oil/oil filter/air filter, and about 40-50 miles later the ABS/BAS/ESP lights come on. Restarting enginer cleared.

I will wait to see if this happens again, will try cleaning, and if it does not work, I will replace the swtich. I will report all results back.

But until then, should I worry about the brake lights not working if those lights come on again? I read some posts that say they won't work and others that will. I know the Cruise control will not work and the ESP off switch does not work.

It's one thing to have the lights come on and those systems not working (especially if restarting the engine clears) but it is another thing to drive without brake lights.

Thanks in advance.

coiae 05-16-2007 06:17 PM

I FOUND IT......at the end.
 
DEAR COLLEAGUES, THE FUC.... PROBLEM OF THE BAS, ESP , ABS LIGHT IT'S NOT THE BRAKE SWITCH Is THE ACCELERATOR SENSOR.
Yes it's true I change the "famous" brake switch and nothing...
At the end my steler put the computer on the car and........
The acelerator sensor it's the problem

here is the part number.

This switch is about 85 euros (without taxes) and is below the trunk....
Part numerber: 1635420618

ammadp 05-22-2007 04:08 AM

Man i just got mine done today and the labor was $90 . crap i need to read these before i go to the *&[email protected] shop to get it fixed. They said it was 90 because its estimated to take an hour but when i went there the little thiefs did it in 5 freakin mins. man i wanna go back and hit the guy in the mouth. Thanks guys ill keep this in mind before i go to any shop ever again.!!!

tripz 05-22-2007 11:37 AM

what switch did they replace? I also have the ABS/BAS/ESC lights on solid, can was in an accident and I replaced the front knuckleand upper control arm, hoping the abs sensor isnt bad, but new to the codes.

Ill def read the posts though. Does the steering wheel full left to right clear the codes?

Jim

olav 08-06-2007 07:25 PM

Folks,

I just replaced the stop lamp switch on my 2000 CLK430 today and still the ABS, ESP and BAS lights will not clear. My brake lights are still not working as well.

Lights seems to come on only after I start the vehicle and the brakes are applied.

Anything else I need to do. Please advice.

Adam

AustinRoxy 09-20-2007 03:44 PM

Bas Abs Esp
 
OK finally installed the switch and all lights stopped coming on!!! The hardest thing to do was just disconnecting the old switch from the harness... The whole thing took obo 15-20 minutes. :) I did turn my wheel all the way left then right after however don't know if I really had to do that. Now to fix my driver window "it wont go up!!!!" motor turns on it just won't move!!:eek:

CLKCLK 10-01-2007 02:11 PM

Thanks!
 
Thanks guys!

I got the BAS/ARS light on yesterday with the EPS error message displayed on the cluster instrument. I took out the switch and opened it up. The metal connector inside was broken into two peaces:smash:. I got the new switch today $12.50, will install it tonight!:zoom:

Thanks again!
:y

takaseem 10-01-2007 06:44 PM

Just an update on my BAS/ABS/ESP light status
 
These things seem to also happen sort of once in a blue moon.

Mine came on 05/13 while driving after hitting the breaks. I restarted the engine and cleared the lights.

Now, over 3000 miles later, and almost 5 months later, I have yet to see them again on my 2002/E320.

So I guess if it happens to you, you might be lucky and not see it for a long while.

I am keeping my fingers crossed.

newguy2008 10-07-2007 04:54 PM

Possibily a defective voltage regulator on the alternator.


Originally Posted by ForrestBlackbur (Post 2180605)
I've got a a similar issue but with much more kinks...

Friday night the valet brought my 2002 s500 around to the front of the restaurant with no problems. They turned it off and when I was ready to leave, I hopped in, turned it over, nothing. The dash board lights up like a christmas tree giving me a Check Engine light, & ESP, BAS, Airmatic ERROR messages. I turned the automatic headlights off and tried it again, it started. I got it home, started it up the next day, no problem, ABS light on. Went to the grocery store, came out, wont start. And when I say "wont start" I mean won't crank or anything. Its like having your key in the II possition. I tried it a few times and nothing. So I left it there and walk 2 blocks home. I returned later to see if it just need some time to stop hating me and, it started! But wont come out of park.

I replaced the battery, it started, I turned the wheels lock to lock to erase the codes, & then I turned it off. I tried to start it again and nothing. No crank.

It cranks when it wants to and when it does, its stuck in park. Oh and one more thing...the A/C won't work. I noticed that the A/C display was fading on and off that first night on the way home from the restaurant. When the car decides to crank & turn over, the only thing that will get the A/C to do anything is if I hit the REST button. Isn't this only supposed to work when the cars off to push residual hot air off the engine during over heating? -My temp gauge reads normal btw.

SO....with ALL that being said....PLEASE HELP!! My car has been in the Ralph's parking lot for almost a week & no one, not even the dealer can tell me what to do!

Oh, no one will tow it for me because it wont come out of park...????

H.E.L.P.

THANK YOU!


tripz 10-09-2007 01:46 PM

I replaced the switch but was wondering if you need to really depress the brake pedal.

Also my brake lights wont illuminate. Would that indicate that the switch isnt making good contact??

Jim

minuae 11-24-2007 11:50 PM

Just bought a 2003 model clk430 conv and had this problem from day one - very annoying. Having searched this forum for an answer I went and bought the stop light switch. I also had a fault message saying a bulb was faulty, but I couldn't see which one. I replaced the swith but the BAS, ESP, ABS lights came back on. Finally realised that the left side rear brake light had gone and replaced that too (don't know how I missed it). All fault messages have now cleared.

yminkc 01-01-2008 04:25 PM

I Just Cleared ABS Warning Light On 2000 CLK430 Cabriolet.
 
My CLK430 has been garaged since October (today is Jan. 1, 2008). My battery was dead so I jumped started it. Afterwards, I had two ABS Malfunction Messages. I read a posts on here talking about replacing a sensor, but I read a post on here that said to turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, then turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and then straighten it out and that resets the code. I did it and my Malfunction Messages were gone!!! Try this before replacing a sensor. I did it twice and it worked. Costs=$0!!!!
:zoom::zoom::zoom::zoom::zoom::zoom::zoom::zoom::z oom::zoom::zoom:

Wobert 01-02-2008 03:35 AM

I'll just do a copy-paste from another thread, makes it easier to search for:

Ah the horrors of changing battery on an MB.
I recently bought a clk320, had some problems that where corrected by a new battery... which then gave me more problems

Symptoms:
BAS alarm on dashboard
ABS alarm on dashboard
Sidewindows that would come down, but not up, nomatter what i tried
Sluggish drive

Cause:
Sometimes when changing the battery on a MB, system codes return errors, or are locked to certain values.

Solutions:
Reset the system codes

How to:
Start the engine
Turn the wheel all the way to the left
Turn the wheel all the way to the right
Turn the wheel back to center position
Turn of the ignition, pull out key
Start the engine

The above worked for me. I really thought the dealer was pulling my leg or something like that, but it truly worked.

hollibird 02-14-2008 05:14 PM

abs bas bullshiz!!!!
 
I have a 2002 Beautiful CLK430. Those freakin lights keep coming on. Dealer said I needed brakes, I got brakes... lights went off... for about a week... tires needed air... blew them up, lights went out. for about a month... I am going to try this! Thanks:nix:

takaseem 02-14-2008 07:55 PM

Just keep in mind that you may need a a switch, or you may have bad contacts on the switch causing it to "every now and then" light those lights.

I had it happen in May 07 once, as I hit the breaks. I stopped the car, took keys out, reinserted and restarted the engine and all went away.

They did not appear till Dec 07, they happened about 3 or 4 times. Everytime they happen when I hit the breaks, and are cleared by restarting engine as above. I thought my sensor was going bad or had a broken contact finally as someone suggested above. So I thought next time I drive by the dealer I will pick up a switch. But they have yet to show up again (2 months later). I am guessing one day I will find time to pull that switch out, and see if it needs cleaning on the contacts. I read somewhere someone cleaned it and all was fine.

So it is possible the above "steering wheel maneuvering" will take care of it, but also possible to be defective switch and/or contacts are dirty and need cleaning.

takaseem 02-14-2008 08:00 PM

I forgot to mention also that in Dec few times I had the gear stuck in PARK few times. Sometimes I will fix it by depressing the break 2 or 3 times, and it will now come out. Once (it was very cold night, 20 degrees) I had to push the button below the D to release the gear from Parking. All this and the fact that the problem went away, suggests the switch is not making contact sometimes.

This is an E320 2001. I will update when I get time to take a look at that switch.

Graffiti 03-23-2008 08:12 PM

Thanks a lot!
 
This works! It saved me from the insane house! I had a dead battery on my S500, so I bought a new one. After installing the new battery, all the lights came on the dash and wouldn't go off. This worked! Thanks!!!!!!!!!!



Originally Posted by Wobert (Post 2576741)
I'll just do a copy-paste from another thread, makes it easier to search for:

Ah the horrors of changing battery on an MB.
I recently bought a clk320, had some problems that where corrected by a new battery... which then gave me more problems

Symptoms:
BAS alarm on dashboard
ABS alarm on dashboard
Sidewindows that would come down, but not up, nomatter what i tried
Sluggish drive

Cause:
Sometimes when changing the battery on a MB, system codes return errors, or are locked to certain values.

Solutions:
Reset the system codes

How to:
Start the engine
Turn the wheel all the way to the left
Turn the wheel all the way to the right
Turn the wheel back to center position
Turn of the ignition, pull out key
Start the engine

The above worked for me. I really thought the dealer was pulling my leg or something like that, but it truly worked.


wnycec 05-05-2008 01:25 PM

Would my BAS/ESP/ABS lights be triggered by getting new rims? I had 19's on my car for about 2 years and I just bought a new set this weekend. Shortly after putting on the new set, the BAS/ESP/ABS lights came on. Took it to an indie shop recommended by MB techs at a stealership near me. He told me that my new rims could be the cause. I have been on the forums long enough to be confident that this is probably not the problem (since so many people have 19's on their cars w/o this issue coming up)

TSW Jarama
19X8 (front) and 19x9.5 (rear)
Those are the wheels I have just purchased.

Could anyone relate to this issue - did go through this problem b/c of new rims? I will mention to him the switch this thread seems to be talkin about.

Thanks for any help anyone could give.

PS - I start the car and the lights arent on. As soon as I press on the brakes the lights come on. When I have someone hold their foot on the brakes, the lights in the back dont come on either.

CakeDaddy 08-04-2008 08:34 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Thanks a bunch for the post. This worked for me. My lady was getting the stuck shifter and all three malfunctions(esp,bas, abs) I got the part right away from the dealer for $18. When I removed the part I noticed the yellow button was compressed in.

the bad part:
Attachment 384903

OGCLK320 01-20-2009 06:25 PM

this is great!
 
I have had this problem on my car for the past year or so with my light always coming on while driving. it was very annoying. after reading this thread i went to my local dealer ship and bought the part for 27 dollars. i guess the price has gone up in the last couple years. but everything works great now. hopefully this works for a while. i love this forum!!!!:):):):):)

toymr2trd 02-12-2009 08:34 PM

hi guys I need your help soooo bad. My problem is ALOT more then just the sensor under the dash it's all connected with the damn ABS /ESP / BAS crap.... well here goes.... I replaced the damn ESP unit and it's STILL LEAKING. Well it turns out that my unit is leaking from these two ports under the bosch sensor. Can you guys tell me WTF is the problem because I'm sooo pissed now. I spent 300 dollars on this damn part. every time I press the brake pedal it leaks from these two ports. you can clearly see when you take the little caps off you can connect some special tool or something.

thanks guys

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...d/IMG00085.jpg

gregory13lil 02-12-2009 10:59 PM

I recommend that you take the part in to the dealer service dept and just ask them the question below. Most of the service areas are cool enought to take a couple minutes out if their day to answer a short question like yours. I am very interested in the fix for this so please keep us posted!!

Greg




Originally Posted by toymr2trd (Post 3348789)
hi guys I need your help soooo bad. My problem is ALOT more then just the sensor under the dash it's all connected with the damn ABS /ESP / BAS crap.... well here goes.... I replaced the damn ESP unit and it's STILL LEAKING. Well it turns out that my unit is leaking from these two ports under the bosch sensor. Can you guys tell me WTF is the problem because I'm sooo pissed now. I spent 300 dollars on this damn part. every time I press the brake pedal it leaks from these two ports. you can clearly see when you take the little caps off you can connect some special tool or something.

thanks guys

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...d/IMG00085.jpg


toymr2trd 02-12-2009 11:23 PM

yeah.... nuts... I was hoping someone would have the answer... LOL I've been on the forum just searching and searching and so far NOBODY has ever had this stinkin problem. I hate this. The car still brakes but the pedal goes all the way down and leaks from those ports. so I may just tow the car over or take the back up part I have.

thanks man

toymr2trd 02-13-2009 10:38 PM

okay.... dealership called me. Get this they said I need to replace the unit. THE UNIT WAS JUST REPLACED! I asked him how can this part break and his response is... it's very hard for this to break unless you get into an accident. I told him I've never been in an accident and that I don't see how this can happen. His response it's 2500 dollars to fix it. WTF!!! I don't believe it. no way two units are broken and leaking in the same spot. It wasn't leaking before I installed it so no *** way it's broken. I believe something else to be the problem. he said he couldn't pressure bleed it because it's leaking from there. UUUHHH DUH I know that. the damn system has air in it and the guy didn't even jack up the car because "It's too low" uuhhh i've taken my car in before with zero problems. I'm pissed and I know it can be fixed. When I told him I've never crashed so I don't see how this can be broken he said.... that's weird I don't know then. WTF! I'm turning to you guys because clearly they don't know what the hell is wrong. They want to charge me 120 for a diagnostic of something I already knew.

toymr2trd 02-13-2009 10:40 PM

by the way this all started happening after the front brakes were replaced. I didn't put new sensors but I've never installed them anyways... this isn't the first time I do this so I'm extremely shocked this is a problem. What you guys think? I know the line closest to the unit has air in it because I can see when I placed the motive bleeder on the unit. I'm completely puzzled.

MarcusF 02-14-2009 12:08 AM

You may want to email one of the guys who are parting out their cars. If not them, a wrecking yard. BTW, when you pressure bleed your brakes, how many bar to you set the bleeder to?

toymr2trd 02-14-2009 09:45 AM

I went with 15. yeah where I got the unit I called them and this was the only one he had. he's willing to help me out and look for another one. funny thing is he's shocked too because it came out of a car that wasn't slammed in the front.

1998CLK320 05-19-2009 11:45 AM

Is anyone finding it to be a pain in the ass trying 2 get the plastic harness things off the switch itself?

Vincent 08-18-2009 10:11 PM

replaced the swtich but the problem still there.... any other suggestions ?

tastoto 08-19-2009 08:38 AM

happened to me you need a new battery i had the same problem not anymore:)

Vincent 08-19-2009 02:06 PM

before replacing the lamp switch, tried charging the battery as suggested by the manual but didnt help.... the battery is about 2-3 years old.....

Thinking if this could be casued by the low brake pads..... but why would the BAS/ESP/ABS light come on instead of the brake light sensor (same light as the foot brake) ?

paulkktang 09-16-2009 12:25 PM

hi guys,

Recently purchased a 2001 CLK 320 Avantgarde and I now have the 3 malfunctions for ESP/BAS/ABS and shifter wont shift out of Park. I've tried the reset technique suggested but it hasn't worked.

Is this the switch problem that everyone on this post is referring to?

Also does anyone know if "Part number for this switch on my 01' W208 is 001-545-64-09 cost $13.80" will be the same part number for an 00' W208?

Paul

MarcusF 09-16-2009 11:46 PM


Originally Posted by paulkktang (Post 3718954)
hi guys,

Recently purchased a 2001 CLK 320 Avantgarde and I now have the 3 malfunctions for ESP/BAS/ABS and shifter wont shift out of Park. I've tried the reset technique suggested but it hasn't worked.

Is this the switch problem that everyone on this post is referring to?

Also does anyone know if "Part number for this switch on my 01' W208 is 001-545-64-09 cost $13.80" will be the same part number for an 00' W208?

Paul

Yes, that's the problem and the same part fits 2000/2001/2002 in the US. It may be true for ROW cars, but I wouldn't know. If I had to guess, yes.

paulkktang 09-17-2009 07:54 PM

Yupz, you guys were spot on - stop lamp switch problem!
Got it changed & no more issues.

This has been a most useful thread - thanks to all who contributed. :y
The gear lock override button (under the 'D') was an absolute God send!

Paul

dannymk2 09-22-2009 01:13 AM

is this a common problem with these cars? i just replaced the brake light switch last year and it broke again. last time it broke, every single warning light came on on the dash, and it was night time so i was able to see that my brake lights would not turn off. today driving home, the bas, esp and abs lights came on, so i stopped to see if i could get the car scanned with the brake scan tool so see what the problem was. i went to leave and i couldnt shift the car out of park. i had someone check and my brake lights werent coming on. i got lucky and the dealership was still open so i sent someone there to buy 2 new ones (im now keeping a spare in the car). its not a huge pita considering its a ~$20 part that takes about a minute to change, but still, ive never had a brake pedal switch fail on me ever, yet this car is on its third since ive owned it.

JUAN CASAUS 10-23-2009 12:41 PM

I'VE HAD THE SAME ESP/BAS ISSUE WITH MY 2000 C230. SO FAR I'VE REPLACED MY BRAKE SWITCH AND BATTERY BUT IT STILL DOES IT WHEN ITS COLD AND THE SPEEDO WONT WORK EITHER UNTIL IT WARMS UP AND THEN IT RUNS FINE. ANY HELP PLEASE!

1998CLK320 10-23-2009 12:53 PM

You got a bad speed sensor man, welcome to my world.

I am in the proccess of getting it fixed, hopefully my indy can do it!

Is it hard shifting at all?

MI5 11-19-2009 07:50 PM

I just had mine replaced - brake light sensor.
It cost a lot at the stealer-ship. I wish I'd just taken the damn thing apart and replace it like everyone else did.

The battery, by the way, is old and pretty worn out (car's 10 yrs old).
How much does a new one normally cost?

Money300zx 11-30-2009 06:03 PM

I have a 2001 clk430, and The abs/bas/esp mal-function light came on. I also noticed that my Brake Lights weren't coming on. I did the turning of the wheel reset, but that didn't help. Went to drive to gt the Brake light switch, and couldn't change gear out of park. Found the manual, unlocking, switch for the transmission, pushed it in, and was able to shift out of Park. Drove to the Dealership, they replaced the Brake Light switch, everything is working fine now.

LYoung 01-31-2010 09:56 PM

will this work for a 2001 clk coupe and where is it located for my car.
Thanks

MarcusF 01-31-2010 10:05 PM


Originally Posted by LYoung (Post 3918931)
will this work for a 2001 clk coupe and where is it located for my car.
Thanks

This may help.

wshepherd3 03-08-2010 09:12 PM

3 brake switches and 1 K40 relay. Still getting the failure. Occasionally clears itself by turning it off and back on. What's scary is driving I-10 thru Phoenix w/o brake lights! I think it must be an intermittent short/open is the harness somewhere... Any other suggestions?

Leco_Diniz 04-01-2010 01:21 PM

Gentlemen,

I own a CLK430 Elegance, 1999. Only the ABS light is on, but the car wont pass 4000RPM, also, the ASC is disabled and i can't turn it on or off, but no ASB/BAS light on. The cruise control is also not working, this could be the brake switch?

The disgnostic machine said it's a communication problem between asc module and engine.

Thank you a lot.

wshepherd3 04-02-2010 11:18 AM

UPDATE 4/2/10
 

Originally Posted by wshepherd3 (Post 3974690)
3 brake switches and 1 K40 relay. Still getting the failure. Occasionally clears itself by turning it off and back on. What's scary is driving I-10 thru Phoenix w/o brake lights! I think it must be an intermittent short/open is the harness somewhere... Any other suggestions?

UPDATE 4/2/10 - Now, it's 4 brake light switches, 1 K40 relay AND a brake booster!!! Crossing my fingers and hoping...

davidclk 06-22-2010 03:48 PM

here it goes
 
2 Attachment(s)
BAS/ESP obsession problem crept into my car for a long time....i read on the forum that it needed replaced yet i chose to take it out first , open it and give it a good clean,the two connectors from the picture (sorry for the bad image,it was done with my phone)are the main ones as i could see there was something like burnt around the point were the two make the connection and i cleaned them carefully with very small sand paper number and it was ok.

...did even sprayed it with CONTACT SPRAY (clean electrical connections) and installed it again...It gave me immediatelly a "1 Malfunction" message and "BAS error Service Immediately"(also the brake lights were not lit at all completely when pressing the pedal)...realised the mistake i did and took it out again and saw that mabe it was a little too much spray added...cleaned that quickly and on the second install the tail lights WORKED again yet the BAS/ESP light in my dashboard was still on...though i didn't try to move the wheels all the way to the right and left hoping that may clear the codes...i will do that and see what happens...anyway i tried just because someone here said it may work but it was a good try though.

mabe a new stop lamp switch will work for me,also going to replace the brake sensors at the wheels just in case and while i am at it the crankshaft sensor too.

GusMorel 08-27-2010 07:32 PM

ABS BAS ESP problem
 

Originally Posted by bbearden (Post 1821111)
More often than not, if its numerous lights coming on, its the switch and people just change out the part. However, with this new good intel, I'm just going to clean the part from now on. Why bother buying another cheap switch that will fail down the road when the old one can just be cleaned.

Would anyone care to tell me how to clean it? I replaced mine on my 03 CLK-320 and it only lasted 3 weeks. All the lights are back!:confused:

GusMorel 09-12-2010 12:17 PM

Hey, I just realized the right side of my brake lights are off. When I get the ABS-BAS-ESP lights, I also get a bad lamp message and my stop light fuse (15 amp by the driver door) is blown. Does this mean the whole mess could be the lamp???? I'm going to try replacing it to see what happens.

Gus

abhilashkbaby83 10-31-2010 06:51 PM

plz .. where that swich goes
 

Originally Posted by MarcusF (Post 3719980)
Yes, that's the problem and the same part fits 2000/2001/2002 in the US. It may be true for ROW cars, but I wouldn't know. If I had to guess, yes.


Thanks a lot guys ... the exact problem i have ... couple days ago i parked my car infront of my house and try to start next day morning shifter not moving from park..and 3 malfuctions messeges on dash board screenABS/ESP/SOS ..i am so scared these f....g cars r expensive when u buy parts and i have no ideas abt car mechanisms or anything otherthan start the car and drive ... sp plaese tell me someone where do i put the switch which is mentioned above (W208:-001-545-64-09).. mine is 2001 E320 4matic...i dont want toe my car to any dealership .. plz someone replay soon .. wher do i can get those switches and where it goes.....how to fix it


plessssssssssssssssssssssssssssseee:bow:

MarcusF 11-01-2010 01:28 AM

This may help.

wpatd66 11-07-2010 09:58 PM


Originally Posted by Vincent (Post 3675152)
replaced the swtich but the problem still there.... any other suggestions ?

The length of the plunger has to be adjusted so that it is in contact with the brake pedal mechanism (when the pedal is NOT depressed). Then when the pedal is depressed, the plunger "releases", causing the lights to come on.

You can adjust the length of the plunger manually, by pulling it out or pushing it in. You will hear clicks.

If the plunger is too "short", then brake lights will be on all the time.

FYI, I found that the brake lights on my Mercedes do not light up unless the key is on or the car is running. If the key is off, no lights will light. This is different than American cars, which illuminate the brake lights with the key off or out of the ignition.

Petdro 10-03-2011 07:45 AM

IAT Sensor
 
P2006-001 Intake air temp sensor : Short circuit to plus, open circuit, I cannot locate this, on newer models it is in the maf, but on mine it is somewhere else, I have had the air filter box out, and cannot see it anywhere, it is not in the maf on my 2000 2.3 CLK 6 speed manual
Anyone got a how to on this?
Many thanks/first post here

Mercee 10-30-2011 08:29 PM

got the BAS/ABS light and beep the other day. thanks to this thread got it swapped out easily this weekend. the only problem was my dealer charged me $34 for the part so cheers to you guys who got it cheaper :word:

dieterandcollee 11-02-2011 04:24 PM

Relay behind the light switch
 
After installing two new brake light switches over the past week and still no change in ABS/BAS warning lights--kept coming on, and having no brake lights or cruise control, independent tracked the problem to the headlight/parking light/fog lamp switch (the relay behind it?). Same symptoms with a very different cause, despite computer read-out indicating a bad brake light switch. Repair was yesterday but so far, so good. And by the way, my back-up lights now work again. I've not seen any posting where a faulty brake light switch affects the backup lights so maybe this is the one indication to check the headlight etc. switch/relay?

lewin1300 12-10-2011 07:29 PM

this fix works, I changed the battery(2002 E320) got the ESP and BAS codes turned the wheel as stated and WHALAH!!!! it worked both lights went out before turning off key. THANKS A BILLION!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

UncleSlam 12-11-2011 06:16 PM

That was an easy fix. Had the ABS and BAS/ESP lights whenever I first touched the brake pedal after starting. Then found out that I had been driving around for a few day without any brake lights working :eek: Just took off the brake switch, played with it, seemed like it was not coming all the way out. I lubed it up with some teflon, reinstalled and now I have brake light and no ABS BAS/ESP warnings. Sweet!

brianoneil 02-09-2012 09:25 AM

No power on take off, floods
 
Just wanted to let everyone know that before we change MAF check everything else first..... I took my plugs out and low and behold the gap on each plug was about 50' they should be 39'. Purchased some NGK Plats and now I might get in trouble car runs like never before. :)

Now working on Brake light switch, I changed all four rotors and pads but noticed light coming on after a few 100+ mph stops after plugs were installed other than that car runs great

brianoneil 04-08-2012 01:11 PM

Gee I have the same issue, Car was running just fine. then one day while driving I had no power what so ever. transmission went into limp mode, changed MAF, Acelerator Sensor man car start fine now however still in limp mode already changed brake switch........... What could it be a wheel sensor that were am looking next any ideas??????? Cars starts fine, transmission engages smoothly however will not acelerate

benzowneralways 05-07-2012 12:22 PM

Just replaced my stop lamp switch
 
This is the 2nd time I had the BAS/abs sytem light come on the display. Gear shift stuck in park and no break lights. Checked my back records and found out when under warrenty the same thing happened and they replaced the switch (no charge). Now my car is 10 years old so I call the dealer and they said they needed the car a couple of days to run diagnostics etc. I told them it was the switch and I was so PO'd I looked up this forum. I bought the switch on line for $14.95 including shipping. It arrived 2 days later and I just changed is out in 10 min and everything is working normally. If you think you can't do it yourself your wrong. I am a 62 year old woman and the hardest part was getting myself under the dash of my 2002 CLK 320. I love this forum.

bbearden 05-07-2012 11:33 PM


Originally Posted by benzowneralways (Post 5183767)
This is the 2nd time I had the BAS/abs sytem light come on the display. Gear shift stuck in park and no break lights. Checked my back records and found out when under warrenty the same thing happened and they replaced the switch (no charge). Now my car is 10 years old so I call the dealer and they said they needed the car a couple of days to run diagnostics etc. I told them it was the switch and I was so PO'd I looked up this forum. I bought the switch on line for $14.95 including shipping. It arrived 2 days later and I just changed is out in 10 min and everything is working normally. If you think you can't do it yourself your wrong. I am a 62 year old woman and the hardest part was getting myself under the dash of my 2002 CLK 320. I love this forum.

Awesome! Glad to hear that this has helped out so many in avoiding a costly trip to the stealership! :y

MarcusF 05-08-2012 01:28 AM


Originally Posted by benzowneralways (Post 5183767)
This is the 2nd time I had the BAS/abs sytem light come on the display. Gear shift stuck in park and no break lights. Checked my back records and found out when under warrenty the same thing happened and they replaced the switch (no charge). Now my car is 10 years old so I call the dealer and they said they needed the car a couple of days to run diagnostics etc. I told them it was the switch and I was so PO'd I looked up this forum. I bought the switch on line for $14.95 including shipping. It arrived 2 days later and I just changed is out in 10 min and everything is working normally. If you think you can't do it yourself your wrong. I am a 62 year old woman and the hardest part was getting myself under the dash of my 2002 CLK 320. I love this forum.

Couple of days for diagnostics? That dealer would never get another dime of my money.

mforums 07-30-2012 02:13 AM

Gentlemen,
I have a 1999 clk430, the three warning ABS-BAS-ESP lights goes ON only on the hot weather day. I replaced the brake switch but didn't seems to help. These 3 lights on only on a hot day. After let it seat cool, lights clear away.
Any hints??? Thanks in advance.

Dave_NH 05-07-2013 07:32 PM

a solution or so.....
 
re my 2001 E320 with similar problems

About a year ago I noticed the Brake Light Error message would show up at random times even though all 3 lights were still working. Every now and then, the message would show up when I tapped the brakes. Engine off, re-start, usually no problem for a few days/weeks. It was a nagging problem, but since the lights still worked, I lived with it. A few months ago, I started to get the BAS/ABS light to show up. I confirmed that the ABS still worked on slickery surfaces. And, of course, the problem would go away and come back every few days.

I finally got irritated enough to look into the problem. It came down to hitting the "cheap solution" first, so I picked up the $20 switch. A half hour or so later, and the job was done. Bless all the pictures and commentaries on this site for help.

I checked the contact resistance and did a Dremel autopsy of the old switch and could see no signs of corrosion or other degradation, but what the heck, it was only $20. After a week or so without errors showing up, I mentally declared victory. Shortly after, the Brake light error came on again. :-)

At least after more than a month or use, the BAS/ABS error had not come back. By now I had figured out that I really had two problems; brake light and ABS light (which I appear to have fixed by replacing the switch). I recall my 1990 Volvo 740 had a similar problem; an intermittent working/failing brake light error. The Volvo's problem was a truly Mickey Mouse socket connection configuration that would permit a very thin layer of corrosion to cause a high resistance connection; the voltage drop was enough to trigger the error detection even though the bulb continued to work. I solved that one by soldering a jumper wire to the bulb base.

I mused that if Volvo can use sloppy engineers, so could Mercedes (I already knew the answer). So I reached back into my 40+ years in Electrical and Mechanical engineering for yet another highly technical solution. I wiggled the bulb assembly in the socket clockwise/counter clockwise for a dozen or so times. That scored the socket/plate connection enough to work through any high resistance connection. A light coating of white grease should help keep it from happening again for a while.

Now, everything works, still, and I no longer get irritating false error messages.

FWIW, I am not confident that any MB service department would have let me get away with a new switch and a wiggled bulb. At least not without charging me a couple hundred $$$.

Dave_NH

fguzelsozlu 05-23-2013 10:23 AM


Originally Posted by dieterandcollee (Post 4900958)
After installing two new brake light switches over the past week and still no change in ABS/BAS warning lights--kept coming on, and having no brake lights or cruise control, independent tracked the problem to the headlight/parking light/fog lamp switch (the relay behind it?). Same symptoms with a very different cause, despite computer read-out indicating a bad brake light switch. Repair was yesterday but so far, so good. And by the way, my back-up lights now work again. I've not seen any posting where a faulty brake light switch affects the backup lights so maybe this is the one indication to check the headlight etc. switch/relay?

Dealer told me that I have problem with the headlight switch and new part is 420+labour. How did you repair it? It will save me a lot. Thanks for quick reply...

GorjessTip 06-19-2013 07:09 PM

HELP!!
 
My car was repossessed Friday and I filed chapter 13 to get it back :topic:I know, but when I gain possession of the car today I noticed my check engine light was on, BAS, ESP, ABS AND my battery light! :wall: When they took my car I did not have ANY of these issues. I don't even know where to begin to fix the problem. I told my lawyer and she basically told me there is nothing we can do because we don't have solid PROOF that these malfunctions were not present before the car was repossessed

HELP!

JUNEBLOOD 08-02-2013 09:06 AM


Originally Posted by bbearden (Post 1329662)
Had my damn ABS, ESP and BAS lights come on again in my ride on the 405 today. :mad: Looked back at my receipts and I had the stop lamp switch replaced just over a year ago (special thanks to Bosch for their inferior electronics). Light seems to come on after the car is started and the brakes are applied. I decided that I would attempt to repair it myself versus paying the stealership $75 for a 15 minute repair job. Stop lamp switches run about $15-25 at the dealership and the switch is fairly easy to access after removal of the plastic access panel under our dash. Curious if anyone else has done this and if I need to disconnect the battery after the install to reset everything. I will digital photographs to help others that try this in the future. Realize though that the problem could potentially be a wheel sensor so we'll see what happens and if this fixes it. The error code is 1584 for a faulty stop lamp switch for those with access to diagnostics. Will hopefully save me some $$$ this time!

When your esp bas and abs light came on did ya speedo still work

bbearden 08-02-2013 11:30 AM


Originally Posted by JUNEBLOOD (Post 5735228)
When your esp bas and abs light came on did ya speedo still work

No I have never had that issue before. I would check the fuses first and then run OBD scan if that is mot the problem to check for codes.

Krums4 08-02-2013 04:07 PM

I had the ABS ESP and ABS come on for the fits time today. My cruse has not stayed on since I bought it a few months ago but the lights just came on. Does anyone think these could be related problems?? I plan to get a new switch and try, can't hurt before I let the repair shop rip me off.

D.ORiGiNAL 02-25-2014 02:57 AM

Just ordered the part on ebay. It was 8 USD or something!

Thanks a lot for this DIY! :)

D.ORiGiNAL 03-13-2014 06:12 AM

So I just changed the switch (5 minutes job) but the lights are still there as soon as I press the brakes. I also had a brake line wear message but after changing the brake pads sensors it disappeared.

Do you think I should unplug the battery for a while to reset the system?

I tried the steering wheel reset way but it didn't do anything. Or should I have MB reset the codes with the computer?

Thanks for the help!

Marc

MarcusF 03-15-2014 01:00 AM

I've heard of cheap aftermarket knockoffs that fail right out of the box. My local MB dealer sells the part is $22. Uro makes an aftermarket switch for $15. Do the brake lights illuminate when you step on the brake pedal? If not, the $8 e-bay switch may be junk.

D.ORiGiNAL 03-15-2014 01:23 AM

Thanks for the answer. They do illuminate. Actually I realized that now the messages only appear after I drive a few hundreds meters and even if I DO NOT press the brakes.

I read somewhere else that different size tires can be a cause so I will go and get the OEM sizes on the four wheels. Right now my rear tires are bigger than my front and one of the rear tire is wider than the other side. Previous owner definitely knew a lot about cars... :D

D.ORiGiNAL 04-04-2014 11:25 PM

Changed tires. Now I have the same size all around but the problem is still there. Back to 0. :D

cscarafino804 01-04-2015 09:53 AM

wiring
 

Originally Posted by AMGEEZY (Post 2206059)
A new one will fix the problem, I put one in about 2 weeks ago and I haven't seen that message again. Depending on what year your car is I have a BRAND NEW one never used. I bought it but it was the wrong part for my car and I couldn't return it. I'll sell it to you for $12.00 shipped. Just PM me.


Do you know where the wiring that connects to the brake switch light leads to? My car is missing the brake light switch and I do not see the wiring. 2004 c230

cannon42 03-10-2015 10:07 PM

I have a 2001 C240 will it fit, if so I want it. I changed my battery today.
 

Originally Posted by AMGEEZY (Post 2206059)
A new one will fix the problem, I put one in about 2 weeks ago and I haven't seen that message again. Depending on what year your car is I have a BRAND NEW one never used. I bought it but it was the wrong part for my car and I couldn't return it. I'll sell it to you for $12.00 shipped. Just PM me.

mine came on today after my batteries been dead for a week now.

fritza2tt 05-10-2015 09:12 AM

Just went through all the reports and did not see what happened to me. Sorry, just noticed that there are 5 more pages! I must not be alone.
Here goes. I think my problem with having the ABS warning come on must be heat related. Driving first time this year when the weather got hot everything worked fine, but after we stopped for lunch and started to drive again, the ABS warning came on.
Driving home in the late afternoon, he engine started with the warning on, butt after driving a minute, it reset itself and the light went out!
Stopped for gas and when we began to drive the warning was back.
At home this morning the engine started with the warning on but again reset it itself. Drove about 9 miles, stopped for half an hour then drove home and everything was NORMAL!
I am beginning to think that there is enough air circulation while driving to keep something from overheating and when you stop, heat builds up under the hood and triggers the warning.
I suspect the ABS module might do that. Anyone have different thoughts?

Walter_Rego 06-27-2015 07:05 AM


Originally Posted by fritza2tt (Post 6427941)
Just went through all the reports and did not see what happened to me. Sorry, just noticed that there are 5 more pages! I must not be alone.
Here goes. I think my problem with having the ABS warning come on must be heat related. Driving first time this year when the weather got hot everything worked fine, but after we stopped for lunch and started to drive again, the ABS warning came on.
Driving home in the late afternoon, he engine started with the warning on, butt after driving a minute, it reset itself and the light went out!
Stopped for gas and when we began to drive the warning was back.
At home this morning the engine started with the warning on but again reset it itself. Drove about 9 miles, stopped for half an hour then drove home and everything was NORMAL!
I am beginning to think that there is enough air circulation while driving to keep something from overheating and when you stop, heat builds up under the hood and triggers the warning.
I suspect the ABS module might do that. Anyone have different thoughts?

If that happened on your ML, you might have a problem with the ebox fan, it's known to fail eventually and it's role is to keep the ESP module cool.

sgtjrock 08-25-2015 11:45 PM

2000 Mercedes Benz clk430 AMG convertible
 
So i have have been having this esp bas no brake light problem on and off for the last 6 months. I have replaced the stop lamp switch 9 times in 6 months one of them being from the dealership at $300. I have replaced it 4 times this month. The first three worked for about a week before i ended up with no brake lights once again. Now when i replace the stop lamp switch it does nothing. I have tried resetting the computer by turning my steering wheel left to right to the stops and nothing changed. I tried pulling the stop lamp fuse from the headlight fuse box with the key on not started and it did not work this time. In the past that worked now it does not. i love this car with a passion but due to these problems i have only been able to put 4000 miles on the car in a years time. the car is going to the shop again on the first when I get paid. This car has already been to the shop 4 times this year 2 times for the bas esp no brake light issue, once for a transmission shift computer replacement at $3000 and once for a rear hub assembly. Now that those other two problems are fixed and good to go i have this ever constant bas esp no brake light issue pestering me with no end in sight. I know that once i figure out what the problem is and fix it i will be good to go. Any ideas on what could be causing so many stop light switches to go bad and now that wont even fix the problem? i am at a loss at this moment.

TimmyJ 11-02-2015 07:10 AM

Hey All,

Around January this year I had the same problem, I booked it in at an MB workshop, they cleaned the throttle body costing me around $300 (3000ZAR).

The same problem started at least 2 days ago, glad to have read this, I was told should the problem appear again, I'd have to replace the throttle body costing at least $1800:crazy:.

Will be replacing both brake switch and accelerator sensor now and see what it does...

Thanks Guys, very helpful indeed...:y

fritza2tt 11-02-2015 08:24 AM


Originally Posted by fritza2tt (Post 6427941)
Just went through all the reports and did not see what happened to me. Sorry, just noticed that there are 5 more pages! I must not be alone.
Here goes. I think my problem with having the ABS warning come on must be heat related. Driving first time this year when the weather got hot everything worked fine, but after we stopped for lunch and started to drive again, the ABS warning came on.
Driving home in the late afternoon, he engine started with the warning on, butt after driving a minute, it reset itself and the light went out!
Stopped for gas and when we began to drive the warning was back.
At home this morning the engine started with the warning on but again reset it itself. Drove about 9 miles, stopped for half an hour then drove home and everything was NORMAL!
I am beginning to think that there is enough air circulation while driving to keep something from overheating and when you stop, heat builds up under the hood and triggers the warning.
I suspect the ABS module might do that. Anyone have different thoughts?

Still driving the old 1987 300D Turbo (285,000 miles) and now I know what turns on my ABS light: it's the right front speed sensor cable, making ground in a right turn. Stepping on the brakes during the turn makes the brake pedal thump. ;-) If you over do it, the ABS light comes on and stays on until you restart the engine. Shutting the engine off resets the ABS to normal. ;-)

TimmyJ 11-03-2015 03:12 AM

@Fritza,

I totally agree to that, we having a fairly cold morning in Johannesburg, South Africa. for the first few miles I haven't had any issues with the warning appearing, I was overjoyed but then when the engine temperature picked up and the warning came back on, very frustrating indeed. Will only be able to take care of this issue over the weekend... Are there any sensors on the brake calipers perhaps??? Ive noticed that after cleaning my "BABY", the situation is worse especially after hosing down the wheels... Just another possibility to consider...

fritza2tt 11-03-2015 05:34 AM

TimmyJ,
Re-reading one of my earlier comments I remembered that a few years ago I replaced the ignition key lock and that resolved my issue with warning lights coming on. Things do wear out. :-)

bertsdad 01-22-2017 06:01 PM

My son has a 2000 CLK320. He started getting intermittent ESP/ABS lights but the brake lights worked. He replaced the switch on the pedal and the lights went away. Three weeks go by and the lights return..switch okay, fuse under hood on left side blown, he took it for a road trip and the lights returned and no brake lights. That fuse, the one on the left of the dash, and the switch all check good, but still no lights. HELP

A1EK 01-23-2017 07:33 AM


Originally Posted by bertsdad (Post 7032759)
My son has a 2000 CLK320. He started getting intermittent ESP/ABS lights but the brake lights worked. He replaced the switch on the pedal and the lights went away. Three weeks go by and the lights return..switch okay, fuse under hood on left side blown, he took it for a road trip and the lights returned and no brake lights. That fuse, the one on the left of the dash, and the switch all check good, but still no lights. HELP

I dont know how many times I've read this type of response !?

The brake switch is nothing to do with the function of the brake lights !!!!

If you are getting intermittent ABS EBS etc on your dash then it will more than likely be resolved by fitting a new brake switch but you need to be genuine Mercedes not OEM, takes 10 mins to fit with no tools apart from remiving the footwell cover.

On rare occasions its a faulty wheel speed sensor but often dirt between the gear tooth effecting the hall effect nature of the sensor.

Chuck Mosely 05-26-2017 05:19 PM

I need Help.!! Please
 

Originally Posted by bbearden (Post 1523265)
Glad I could help you out! I don't get worried when I see that light flash these days, knowing how simple the fix is.

I changed the break lamp switch but the lights still come on after a few & the breaks make a rattle noise when not applied... what else could it be please help.!!! Thanks

MarcoPau 07-25-2018 12:20 PM


Originally Posted by A1EK (Post 7033234)
I dont know how many times I've read this type of response !?

The brake switch is nothing to do with the function of the brake lights !!!!

If you are getting intermittent ABS EBS etc on your dash then it will more than likely be resolved by fitting a new brake switch but you need to be genuine Mercedes not OEM, takes 10 mins to fit with no tools apart from remiving the footwell cover.

On rare occasions its a faulty wheel speed sensor but often dirt between the gear tooth effecting the hall effect nature of the sensor.

Hi, I have changed the switch under the footwell cover but I am still getting EPS error on my dash, <!> sign, tyre pressure monitor faulty... What is this dirt you're talking about? I read about an expensive sensor underneath the steering wheel but I'd rather try other solutions before spending around 300 $ for the spare part plus the work.

Thanks for any possible hint!

PS: I am also getting the speed limit to 120 km/h, can't get any faster.

cindyclk 07-26-2018 10:08 AM


Originally Posted by MarcoPau (Post 7512006)
Hi, I have changed the switch under the footwell cover but I am still getting EPS error on my dash, <!> sign, tyre pressure monitor faulty... What is this dirt you're talking about? I read about an expensive sensor underneath the steering wheel but I'd rather try other solutions before spending around 300 $ for the spare part plus the work.

Thanks for any possible hint!

PS: I am also getting the speed limit to 120 km/h, can't get any faster.



since this is your first post, I'm going to go simple....have you turned the wheel all the way left, all the way right and then center with key in pos #2?....eps has to be reset when new battery

MarcoPau 07-27-2018 04:06 AM

Don't remember if I've done this already since it's been quite a few months since I am experiencing this problem.

It actually started very seldom but then it kinda goes on frequently. Looks like it depends on the outside temperature, maybe. Anyway it's never always on, plus, I sometimes reset the type pressure monitor and if I leave the board on the "tyre pressure monitor active" or something like that, just after resetting, the ESP, <!> light and speed limit (they all come out together) will more likely "resist" :-D

I'll try the ESP reset as you suggested and let you know. Should I expect any message to come out on the board for confirmation?

Thanks again for now!

cindyclk 07-28-2018 10:04 AM


Originally Posted by MarcoPau (Post 7513469)
Should I expect any message to come out on the board for confirmation?

Thanks again for now!

nope ...just that the warning lights disappear.

Serndipity 07-28-2018 10:19 AM


Originally Posted by MarcoPau (Post 7512006)
Hi, I have changed the switch under the footwell cover but I am still getting EPS error on my dash, <!> sign, tyre pressure monitor faulty... What is this dirt you're talking about? I read about an expensive sensor underneath the steering wheel but I'd rather try other solutions before spending around 300 $ for the spare part plus the work.

Thanks for any possible hint!

PS: I am also getting the speed limit to 120 km/h, can't get any faster.

Your B200 Turbo is a completely different vehicle then the CLK class.

Suggest you repost in this B class forum: https://mbworld.org/forums/b-class-w245-w246-183/

MarcoPau 07-31-2018 02:55 AM


Originally Posted by cindyclk (Post 7512768)
since this is your first post, I'm going to go simple....have you turned the wheel all the way left, all the way right and then center with key in pos #2?....eps has to be reset when new battery

Hi, for some reason I just noticed I have written in W208 forum while I have a W245 B200 Turbo.

I have tried the reset you suggested but assume it's not working because it is the W208's procedure.

Anyway, I have reset the tyre pressure measure monitor several times, and the ESP + tyre pressure monitor not working warnings come out only at times. They are not there regularly as soon as I turn on the car.

Thanks for helping.

JAGUAR4HB 04-17-2019 09:41 PM

bas esp abs
 
Had my 2002 S500 shipped.. when I arrived the car was running and I jumped in and drove it home. The next time in it.. started fine and got the three warning lights and car wouldn't shift out of park. I read that you could remove the knob on the shifter and hit the top with a hammer as you pull level towards D N M and it worked.. replaced the brake light switch as another problem is my brake lights are "on" and don't go out when the car is running. I've tried running codes and clearing them.. with no luck..but, at least it will drive..hope that gets your car home.. but, I really wish someone would get me further in this adventure..look strange smacking my gear shift lever every time I use my car... lol

TMJCLK55AMG 04-18-2019 08:55 AM

Guys, thank you for this thread. I was having the ESP/ABS warning and my car was going into limp mode after a few minutes whether it was being driven or not. This happened immediately after getting a tuneup which included getting the spark plug wires changed. Culprit turned out to be bad ABS/ESP module which most likely was knocked around during the tune up. I was able to get a used one of of ebay for $90, which was a deal bc they cost $700 new. The part swap took about 10 mins and after a year for sitting the car was back on the road again. Thanks again for all the commentors who offered their help in this thread. Steve

JAGUAR4HB 04-18-2019 01:03 PM

TMJ ...
which fuse box is it located in.. left right or under the rear seat?

TMJCLK55AMG 04-18-2019 01:41 PM

not a fuse box, its actually a module on the ABS pump. See http://www.mercedesmedic.com/bas-esp-abs-mercedes-benz/ for the fault description and various possible fixes. The part number for the module is 0345457832 and here is the listing for the part I bought https://www.ebay.com/itm/183635804547. He actually sent me the module and the pump and just took the module off of it to replace the broken one in the engine bay. Here is the video I watched to know how to actually change it
Hope this helps others who have the same issue.

JAGUAR4HB 04-18-2019 02:11 PM

Thanks so much for the information...


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