After market head unit RCA line out to speaker wire bose amp
 

At the moment i wanna ride on my bose amp and speakers. Want to get the most of what i got now.
Right now im getting alot of hiss out of my speakers cause i think my head unit is supplying a amplifed speaker feeds to my bose amp which is reamplifying it again. Can i simply rig a connection to the non-amplified RCA line out jacks from head unit and convert them to 2 speaker wires so i can feed the amp a cleaner non-powered signal?

or would i need something like this?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127OEM2...2.html?tp=3486

also does the bose amp have RCA out for a simple powered sub i can throw in? (have a infinity basslink sitting around) Neither feel like pulling panels till work slows down a month from now :)

The PAC OEM-2 is exactly what you need. The Bose amp is expecting a balanced, low-level signal. It sounds like it's seeing an unbalanced high-level signal. The PAC OEM-2 converter box will take the unbalanced high-level input and convert it to balanced low-level output.

I bought my OEM-2 for $15. Aside from being cheap, it was money well spent. What head unit are you running? Did you spring for the steering wheel control adapters too?

Headunit: Pioneer AVIC-X910BT w/ aftermarket larger knob
Steering wheel controls i'll probably buy down the road. Hard to justify $100 when the voice controls/touch screen/and the new knob work well, i do miss it a little bit for volume adjustment but not for $100.

Hi Marcus,

Instead of the OEM-2 i cannot just use the low-level (pre-out) RCA jacks? Make my own connector RCA to speaker wires?

Im a bit confused with the pac oem-2. So it takes the high-level speaker out from head unit, to the pac then converts it to low-level back via speaker wire to bose amp. Why couldn't i just use the low-level out from head unit directly to bose? Is there a preout voltage that has to match that the PAC provides that my headunit does not?

You can use the pre-outs, but Bose amps are designed to use a balanced signal interconnection. That is the main reason for buying an OEM-2. Most aftermarket audio systems use an unbalanced signal connection. The signal connection is independent as to whether the signal is low-level or high-level. The Bose amps will work with an unbalanced signal, but there will probably be a faint hum. Some people can't hear the hum until it's pointed out to them. I'm not a hi-fi nut, but when it was pointed out to me, it was obvious. The PAC converter box reads the unbalanced input, and produces balanced output. I used the low level output on my head unit (in addition to the RCA jacks, there's a low level switch on my Alpine) as input to the OEM-2, and the output from my OEM-2 feeds the Bose amps via a wiring harness adapter (free from Crutchfield). I could have used a high-level output from the head unit, but the guys at PAC Audio said the sound would be clearer if low-levels were used.

Oh did not know the oem-2 can accept RCA as input i thought it was speaker high-level input only.

Cool so..
RCA preout from HU (unbalanced) to ->
Pac oem-2 low level speaker wire (balenced) to ->
Bose amp

Done?

You need to add RCA males, but yes, that's it. You can download the user's manual in PDF format at www.pac-audio.com

http://www.pac-audio.com/UserImages/OEM-2.jpg

Sweet you know what i just read your signal to noise link on your sig, and that would have prevented me from posting this :) Good resource... also answered my other question about how difficult installing the pac wheel controls, its that easy huh.

Oh and where did you find the oem-2 for $15?

I got my OEM-2 for $15 from Crutchfield.

Interesting find that you can run this backwards cause i don't see it mentioned in the diagram. But that is how im doing it :)

Im installing this right now does it need power? Im guessing its converting the low level balence by just its internal resistors and such....? so no power needed

According to the docs I got, the wires for constant battery, switched power, the ground, power antenna turn on, and illumination dimming all go directly through to the output side for the convenience of wiring. The docs also say the red (switched power) and black (ground) wires supply power to an internal low voltage trigger.

Thanks again Marcus,
Success! sounds sharp! Hiss is gone, great addon to what already sounded pretty good. Now i have to work my EQ all over again :rolf:. Definatly alot less distortion at high volume which i thought were the speakers themself. The bose system is pretty good if its intergrated right.

Onto another anal issue :) My volume seems a bit dim get this My max volume is 64; so 25-35 is casual volume, 35-50 windows down volume, 45-60 is loud.....in mind 64 is my max. So theres really no blasting it.
Do you experiance about the same off your Alpine? (pots are turned up all the way)

Very happy with the install, maybe i blew out my ears some with my new sound enjoyment. I'll re-listen to it tomorrow maybe my HU has an advanced menu for lineout gain, does the bose amp have an gain controls?

Congrats :y

I agree completely, the Bose system does sound pretty good. As you said, the key is proper integration. I don't have a problem with volume. I don't think I've ever turned mine all the way up. About 3/4 is about as loud as I want it.

Same steps for the Z110BT?
 

Guys, thanks for all of this. It's very helpful since I'm looking to install the Z110BT in my 2001 E55.

The only difference regarding the installation between the Z110BT and the X910BT, from what I can tell, is that the Z110BT has 4V pre-outs instead of the 2V pre-outs for the X910BT. If I understand this correctly, the installation is exactly the same -- i.e. RCA pre-out from the head unit -> OEM-2 RCA input -> OEM-2 wires to harness -> harness into Bose input. Does that sound right?

Also, there was mention that RCA males would need to be added. When does that come into play?

Sorry if this doesn't make sense, but I've been doing a lot of reading on the board and am trying to get my head around it before ordering parts.

Brian

Yep grab 4 rca male to male adapters from your pac vendor or radio shack. The come into play as the HU has female connectors and so does the pac.
I did talk to a PAC rep about my lower volume. Its mixed results doing it the reverse way discussed above.
If lower volume exist just use the speaker out leads from head unit -> pac -> bose. (normal installation)
No quality is lost, just adjust the pots accordingly where half volume is loud and no distortion.
Either way use the PAC sound quality is greatly improved either way you wire it up!

Did you have any challenges finding a mounting kit for your pioneer unit? (pioneer does not provide one with hu)

Awesome, those instructions are very helpful. I'm going to give it a go with the RCA inputs and see if it works.

I actually haven't pulled the trigger on buying the HU yet. I've been trying to figure out how the installation will work and peoples' results so far. I didn't know that Pioneer didn't make a mounting kit for our car. I'm trying to do the cleanest install as possible (similar to tacjam's Eclipse w205 installation). How did you end up mounting the HU and did you have a plastic gap between the wood and the HU screen?

Heres some pics from the install. With our consoles which i think also applies to your 01 E55, it will take a double din no problem just need a cage + bezel. With Pioneer this kit is a seperate purchase fits all current models.
Only simple mod to do, since i did not have the command unit i had to cut off some plastic if you had a single din unit with the map pocket.

http://home.roadrunner.com/~gizzo/clk/x910_cutout.jpg

http://home.roadrunner.com/~gizzo/clk/x910_map.jpg

http://home.roadrunner.com/~gizzo/clk/x910_engine.jpg

http://home.roadrunner.com/~gizzo/clk/x910_profile.jpg

^Need to move that mic to the ceiling console peice. Easy install, i've only done a few car stereo installs. Color of the button when the light up match the instruments, one big reason why picked this model.

Perfect, this definitely gives me a rough idea of what it would look like in my car. I have the comand right now, so hopefully I won't have to trim anything down. Is this the kit I'd need for the cage and bezel?

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130ADTV...3.html?tp=2114

Also, I was hoping the screen would take up more space in the bezel so there would be less trim plastic showing. I'm guessing this is what it will look like, which is very similar to how yours came out (the picture is from a 2004 CLK). Does the plastic bezel clash too much for your taste with the cars plastic, or are you happy with it?

http://i34.tinypic.com/149zjfa.jpg

I think the flash on my camera make the texture of plastic differences stand out. Its hardly really noticable, its acceptable. Its a great start, if i really wanted to i could repaint the out bezel or plus a platform to wrap it in birds eye wood. In the 3rd pic that pretty much what it looks like its not far off.

And yes thats the kit i used.
The kit was intended for the previous F and Z series but fits the new X series. The X series the HU is glossy so it a slight mismatch so If your getting the Z with the hard drive that will match the interior and kit better.

I'm planning on getting a Pioneer HU as well for my 2000 CLK320. I read through this thread and I appreciate all the information. Helps a lot :y
The HU I want to go with is this one:
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...s/AVH-P3100DVD

Hope the install wont be too difficult :rolf:

Its as simple as it looks

ya im hoping it will be a breeze. my parts are coming in tuesday, i'll probably install it sometime during week. i'll be sure to post some pictures.
BTW does your HU have that stupid parking brake feature that doesn't allow you to view dvd's while the vehicle is in motion. if so, how did you bypass it? some sources say to just tape it off or ground the wire. i dont think it will be that simple :confused:

Just take the mute wire and move it to this location shown in the video ground both green (parking brake) and the mute wire new location. Ground both wires and thats ALL!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HL5pkAKkkA

The only tough ones depends on the year model of your car, different locations for your +battery feed. For me i had to tap into the cig lighter. Aniother note you probably have read already yellow and red wires are reversed on our cars, so red=yellow and yellow=red.

Oh btw i had to take it apart and install it the normal way using the speaker wires. Still sounds great dialed in the output volume using the gain pots. Sounds great, even a decent amount of bass. I was going to install my spare infinity basslink but its not needed.
Without the oem-2 theres no way i could turn it up as loud, it distorted way early = bass sucked.

thanks for the info but im a little confused here. the vid shows to yank the mute wire and insert it into an empty slot. but my harness has no empty slot. maybe because its a different unit. however i found some other videos that show how to bypass is with my specific unit. i'll see what i will do come installation time...:smash:

i thought if you just use the an aftermarket wiring harness for the aftermarket deck to stock harness,u dont need a pac oem2...correct me if i'm wrong...