Intake manifold broken?
 

2006 3.5

I just got my car back from the dealer where it had some tranny work done. Aside from the transmission it had also thrown a P2006 which the dealer checked into and orally told me my intake manifold is coming apart and needs to be replaced. About $1700. On the service paperwork this is what they wrote:

":0521 for intake manifold tumble flaps stored in ME-SFI engine control unit. Performed visual inspection and found linkage rod for intake manifold tumble flaps is broken. Recommend replacement of resonance intake manifold."

So I have some questions. First - please enlighten me! Do I need to replace the entire manifold or can I just replace the linkage rod? The car is running fine - what's up with that? Is this a DIY project, as it seems to involve only a couple hours of labor? Source for the needed parts?

Thanks!

Oracle. These damn dealers make me sick. I can post the entire operation of the variable intake system if you need it but I'm going to stick to two diagrams for now so as not to complicate issues. If they can't fix/replace the broken swirl flap rod find someone that is competent & can. This is typical dealer. The next thing they will want to do is replace the engine because it needs spark plugs.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1326414644

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1326414644

You should be able to get an intake used.

I have a v8 version for sale cheap.

GL, don't get hosed by the dealer!

I replace the intake on a ML with over a 150K miles. I found broken pieces of flaps setting on top of the valves. I don't know if you can get a rebuild kit. I will have to check.

I was going to open the hood and put my eyeballs on this to see where I stand, but the repairs done by the dealer yesterday failed and now the car is being towed back to them. So it'll be a bit before I can visually check what is indeed broken. Thanks very much for the information!

Sorry you are having problems!:(

While waiting for the tow truck I had the time to remove the filter housing and have a look. Not easy to see much as there is a lot going on in that area, but as far as I could tell the arms are intact no the three actuators, which on the diagram above are labeled 22/6 & 22/9. I could not see the part labeled 12/4 or 12/1 which would be my suspicoin just based on the dealer write-up. Once I get the car back I will grab a high intensity light and mirror to get a good look.

On studying information on the net I find this manifold is a common failure item, although I don;t find any description of the various failure modes. Nothing about whether the case cracks of the rods fail or such, although one writer does mention his failed such that he had bits of debris on his valves. I wonder - who would make such parts that fail so early? But then I guess the question answers itself.

I also find a lot after market plastic intake manifolds that claim 16% performance improvement, as well as increased life due to their construction. Roughly $900 for this item. Any feedback on these after market units?

I have no experience of aftermarket at all. Hope one of our friends will comment.

All right now, I have my car back, and there is no body damage to the car - only a severe dent in my wallet.

Anyway I have put eyes on the broken piece. Referring to the diagram above, and looking at valve actuator 22/9 which is the middle one of the three, its control rod extends down and connects to a central piece with three items tied to it (including valve 22/9). So this one valve is apparently rotating something within the manifold itself, as well as actuating two other valves to either side.

The break is on this central piece, right where the connection is made with the rod from 22/9. Thus there is no activity being translated to several areas. I point out the engine is running great.

Very difficult to see into this area but I am thinking this end-shaft piece cannot be easily replaced without opening the manifold and replacing the entire assembly. Possibly I could cement a repair.

My first question is - Where should I manually position this function for normal operation so I can drive the car until I do the repair? Rotate clockwise or counter clockwise?

And my second question is kind of obvious - Anybody have experience with this failure? It seems fantastic that such a small piece of broken plastic can require a $1700 repair.

Thoughts?

OK first the bad news - The EPC shows no repair kit for this manifold so I would go ahead with a homegrown fix or buy a used manifold - that said it would not hurt to ask the dealer. It's been redesigned 3 times.

That actuator controls the swirl flaps. I would set the flaps in the active position. See diagrams for orientation & active parameters.

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1326648489

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1326648489

I post the variable length runners for interest:

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1326648489

Good luck :y

Thanks Glyn - I appreciate all the help.

I agree this should be set in the active position because I don't drive the car hard at all, rarely above three thousand RPM.

I'm going to run the engine and observe how the valve moves, then set the position. I will also check to see if engine breathing forces movement as it may be I need to secure the linkage in place manually against any such change.

I looked up good-used and they seem to run about $250 plus shipping. Problem is do I really want to buy another faulty used one?

Hopefully you can ensure an operating manifold or return - or lower price if it allows one good to be built up from 2.

I have to say that obviously the most M272 engines are on the W203, W204 forums & manifolds have not been an issue.

Done.

For future reference the 'active' position, which is lower RPM, is with the central piece rotated full clockwise when viewed from front of car.

And, at least with no-load increase to 3500 RPM, there was no engine breathing that caused the position to change, so I didn't lock it down in any fashion. After some driving next week I will make sure to get my revs up and then recheck the position.

Great!

Have you been able to manage a repair job on the broken plastic piece? i too am having the same issue and font really feel like dropping 1700 on a repair job right now. Did they tell you what the part cost new without labor?

Dealer says about $1200 but you can find online around $800. I now have maybe 1000 miles on it with part broken and set as written above - can't detect any performance difference at all , even mileage still the same .

Replacement lever
 

I have the replacement levers for sale for $249.00.

Express shipping worldwide for $15.00

www.monoglobal.com.au

http://www.monoglobal.com.au/images/GB6015.JPG

The lever is not what breaks. It's the plastic rods that break.

What a bad post, blaming the dealer for falsely trying to sell a intake when separate parts are not available. Jeez Do you're homework first bud.

I have done my homework. All you confirm is that some dealers are nothing but parts exchangers. I've seen good dealers around the world fabricate the plastic links in aluminum as one offs at a fraction of the cost of a new manifold. They can also be neatly repaired with epoxy.

Not necessarily to defend them, but USA dealers are not allowed to do such fabrications of parts unless it is part of a TSB with explicit instructions. Otherwise, they risk serious repercussions by MBUSA for performing "unauthorized" repairs. It's sad, really, when a good mechanic knows something can be fixed with a $5 part or some glue, but MBZ doesn't sell it that way. I think this is one of the justifications for steering clear of dealers and using indy mechanics.

I agree with the aluminum shaft. It's a good idea. But fact is most dealers don't fabricate their own parts.

Now, the epoxy is just silly. Maybe for a backyard mechanic, but that is not a permanent repair nor correct repair.

Question
 

some of question about the parts
If use the aluminum material to replace the plastic.
when intake equipment running, the intake manifold linkage by aluminum is so hard and stong. then the bar of the intake will be break, is it possilbe like the piceture below
Attachment 242890

is it possible, the parts change the aluminum, then all parts will be running well, not any repair request? I think it is impossilbe.


Chin Tung Metal Co.,Ltd
www.oem-parts.com.tw
skype:carlcoco0204
E-mail: carl@oem-parts.com.tw

Yeah! Things are different in the US. In SA where a manifold costs nearly twice what it does in the US they just fabricate one off's in aluminium if the vehicle is out of it's Mobilodrive plan & the dealers are owned by Benz. In Asia I've seen a steel pin used for strength with epoxy & it outlasts the original. Is it pretty or elegant ~ No.

I require some convincing that US dealers do as they are told. Some of them are really bad. They violate the WIS constantly. If you look at the W204 forum just trying to get a dealer to drain the torque converter on a 722.9 is a challenge & it holds half the transmission fluid charge. Slightly over 4 litres.

But, how about the connect between column and the intake manifold?
If the aluminium is better than epoxy, is it possibel that the pillars for connect with intake manifold may be damage. And you will need to pay more cost for replace the intake manifold swirl flap.
Attachment 242906