My Transmission
07-17-2013, 01:14 PM
#51
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
From what I gathered from the experts from this forum, all the smarts of a 722.6 (% speed) are in the TCU. So, the valve body and the conductor plate are interchangeable, no need for adaptation.
On the other hand, 722.9 is more tricky and after changing the valve body or the conductor plate, you will need a SDS to reprogram. They said the new components have to learn from the TCU.
On the other hand, 722.9 is more tricky and after changing the valve body or the conductor plate, you will need a SDS to reprogram. They said the new components have to learn from the TCU.
07-17-2013, 04:00 PM
#53
Super Moderator
Hi,
Gents,
Baran from United Kingdom, after having same continuious problems on my clk 320 cdi 7 g transmisson I had to pass all these steps to get to the bottom of the problem with the Elite Auto MB Specialist in Kingston upon Hull. Fault codes are same as you have described on your quote and they quoted gbp 668.00 including labour and oils etc to change the valve body to solve the limp mode problem that i have been experiencing since march this year. car stayed there 2 weeks we waited the part from MB Germany etc. They changed the valve body then gave it back the car to us but when giving technician guy said i expect the same problem to appear again and if it a because we have suspicions about the units coding to the system. had 60 miles journey on the next day, had limp mode 4 times during the journey and took it back to the garage for further treatment, they have spoken with MB dealier about the part and they admitted that part might be faulty and replaced again, but it didnt managed to pass the coding and they had 4 ours of technical discussions with Germany Mb Technical team to sort it out put the car on Star diagnostics and connected to the MB server to read from top to toe and finaly admitted that it is a very common problem on all CLK series has 7 g transmission on it and all TCu unit has to be replaced to solve the problem. which costed me another Gbp 441.00 to add on to the current bill.
Parts received on yesterday from the dealer and they are changing the full unit and promised to give the car back to me on friday or latest Saturday,
Fingers and everything crossed and waiting to take the car back all in working order,
I will post the result over the weekend when/ if i got the car in one piece all working order,
Thanks,
Baran
Gents,
Baran from United Kingdom, after having same continuious problems on my clk 320 cdi 7 g transmisson I had to pass all these steps to get to the bottom of the problem with the Elite Auto MB Specialist in Kingston upon Hull. Fault codes are same as you have described on your quote and they quoted gbp 668.00 including labour and oils etc to change the valve body to solve the limp mode problem that i have been experiencing since march this year. car stayed there 2 weeks we waited the part from MB Germany etc. They changed the valve body then gave it back the car to us but when giving technician guy said i expect the same problem to appear again and if it a because we have suspicions about the units coding to the system. had 60 miles journey on the next day, had limp mode 4 times during the journey and took it back to the garage for further treatment, they have spoken with MB dealier about the part and they admitted that part might be faulty and replaced again, but it didnt managed to pass the coding and they had 4 ours of technical discussions with Germany Mb Technical team to sort it out put the car on Star diagnostics and connected to the MB server to read from top to toe and finaly admitted that it is a very common problem on all CLK series has 7 g transmission on it and all TCu unit has to be replaced to solve the problem. which costed me another Gbp 441.00 to add on to the current bill.
Parts received on yesterday from the dealer and they are changing the full unit and promised to give the car back to me on friday or latest Saturday,
Fingers and everything crossed and waiting to take the car back all in working order,
I will post the result over the weekend when/ if i got the car in one piece all working order,
Thanks,
Baran
Benz had a real bust up with Siemens over conductor plates. Newer 722.9 transmissions as fitted to my 2009 model have all these issues fixed.
Good luck!
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 07-17-2013 at 04:03 PM.
07-17-2013, 11:38 PM
#54
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
I am thinking how expensive is the conductor plate for what it is. It is just a piece of plastic with the white speed sensor. Can this speed sensor he purchased separately?
Also, I had a discussion with my indie about Shell ATF134. He said he preferred to stick with MB ATF fluid.
Also, I had a discussion with my indie about Shell ATF134. He said he preferred to stick with MB ATF fluid.
07-18-2013, 07:50 AM
#55
Super Moderator
It's generally not the sensor that fails. It's the wiring in the conductor plate. The circuit wiring is sandwiched inside the plastic. The speed sensor is not available separately.
As I have said before. Shell is an OE supplier of the MB ATF.
As I have said before. Shell is an OE supplier of the MB ATF.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 07-18-2013 at 07:57 AM.
07-18-2013, 09:48 AM
#56
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Oh, I did not know there is wiring inside the plastic of the conductor plate.
As for the Shell-134, I probably missed your post about Shell being the OE supplier for MB. I did read, probably from one of your posts, that Shell-134 is a MB approved ATF.
As for the Shell-134, I probably missed your post about Shell being the OE supplier for MB. I did read, probably from one of your posts, that Shell-134 is a MB approved ATF.
07-19-2013, 12:05 PM
#58
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Glyn: Very informative diagrams. Thanks.
For my education, there are altogether 6 solenoid valves which sit on the valve body "through" the conductor plate. Can these solenoid valves be bought separately?
For my education, there are altogether 6 solenoid valves which sit on the valve body "through" the conductor plate. Can these solenoid valves be bought separately?
07-24-2013, 09:41 PM
#60
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
So, the conductor plate was replaced last Tuesday and there was no limp mode since. It's been 8 days and all OK.
Not sure if it's the new conductor plate or the new ATF (pan only), the car is super smooth.
Not sure if it's the new conductor plate or the new ATF (pan only), the car is super smooth.
08-07-2013, 01:58 PM
#62
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
It has been 3 weeks since the replacement and no more limp mode.
On the other hand, my buddy (2003 CL500) is laughing at me now. He is one of these people who believes in life-time fluid. He said that the conductor plate failed because I "touched" the transmission by changing the ATF.
On the other hand, my buddy (2003 CL500) is laughing at me now. He is one of these people who believes in life-time fluid. He said that the conductor plate failed because I "touched" the transmission by changing the ATF.
08-08-2013, 11:26 AM
#63
Super Moderator
Well we all know what he is!!! 
Please ask him to explain the mechanism of failure.
As I've said before. Filled for life = Short life!
Please ask him to explain the mechanism of failure.
As I've said before. Filled for life = Short life!
08-08-2013, 11:50 AM
#64
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
No idea how I have missed this. I thought OE of MB ATF is Fuch.
If Shell-134 is the same, same fluid as MB ATF, I would certainly switch over. Locally, MB ATF is about 4-5 times more expensive than Shell-134.
If Shell-134 is the same, same fluid as MB ATF, I would certainly switch over. Locally, MB ATF is about 4-5 times more expensive than Shell-134.
08-08-2013, 01:17 PM
#65
MBWorld Fanatic!
I typically do my own work but absolutely hate transmission fluid baths, so that task is always farmed that out to my local MB dealer. My local MB dealer charges in the neighborhood of $350. Different dealers will have different rates (different service writers will also have different rates) so YMMV. My fluid has been done 3 times over the past 9 years, including the time I had my conductor plate changed about 5 years ago. Based on my mileage, I can assuredly state changing the fluid does not cause transmission problems.
08-08-2013, 08:56 PM
#66
MBworld Guru
There seems to be this old urban legend that if you let an automatic transmission go too long without a fluid change that you are better of not changing it. The theory seems to be that transmission will have become used to the thicker, contaminated oil, and that by putting the lighter, cleaner oil in, it will leak past the internal hydraulic seals and cause problems. I think that's a bunch of baloney. If anything, fresh oil is good for these overworked seals. I think the anecdotal evidence of new fluid causing problems is really a result of old, neglected machines on their last leg that would have failed regardless.
@Marcus: $350 for a fluid and filter change on a 722.6 is a bit pricey. My indy does it for under $200. There's no torque converter drain, so that saves some work and about 5 quarts of fluid, plus the 722.6 can be filled and level checked from the top through its dip tube. The 722.9 has a torque converter drain, so that means extra labor + extra fluid and the refill and level check has to be done underneath via the drain plug. Most dealers charge $400+ (and then often neglect the torque converter drain!) Indys usually charge around $300.
@Marcus: $350 for a fluid and filter change on a 722.6 is a bit pricey. My indy does it for under $200. There's no torque converter drain, so that saves some work and about 5 quarts of fluid, plus the 722.6 can be filled and level checked from the top through its dip tube. The 722.9 has a torque converter drain, so that means extra labor + extra fluid and the refill and level check has to be done underneath via the drain plug. Most dealers charge $400+ (and then often neglect the torque converter drain!) Indys usually charge around $300.
08-08-2013, 09:29 PM
#67
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
My first pan flush at the dealership was in Feb, 2009 when the car had 72k miles. Parts: $218, labor: $157, with tax the total invoice was $424CAN. The indie is of course cheaper. The cost will even be lower if I switch to Shell-134 but my indie (the Sprinter guy) is reluctant to use non-MB ATF.
I have one bad driving habit that may be hard for the transmission. I sometimes would downshift to slow down the car. I should probably stop this.
I have one bad driving habit that may be hard for the transmission. I sometimes would downshift to slow down the car. I should probably stop this.
08-08-2013, 11:29 PM
#69
Super Moderator
There seems to be this old urban legend that if you let an automatic transmission go too long without a fluid change that you are better of not changing it. The theory seems to be that transmission will have become used to the thicker, contaminated oil, and that by putting the lighter, cleaner oil in, it will leak past the internal hydraulic seals and cause problems. I think that's a bunch of baloney. If anything, fresh oil is good for these overworked seals. I think the anecdotal evidence of new fluid causing problems is really a result of old, neglected machines on their last leg that would have failed regardless.
08-09-2013, 12:09 AM
#70
MBworld Guru
08-09-2013, 09:49 AM
#72
MBworld Guru
I understand what you are doing. I'm not sure I'd try to shift into the lowest gear possible at 60mph just to avoid using the brakes, but it you're just rolling to a stop and you downshift for a little extra engine braking, that's no big deal. And like I said, the ECU/TCU does this itsel, but probably not as much as you do manually.
08-09-2013, 10:23 AM
#73
I use the 'manual' shifting here and there. Mostly when I want to keep the rpm in a better torque range. And to hear a little exhaust 'backing off'. The 'auto' shifts up too soon sometimes. Besides, having driven stick shift forever, I miss it.
Off topic; I always reset the TCU with "the procedure" while sitting in my garage, because it worked, and it seemed that 'driving aggressively' didn't do it. Yesterday I had the opportunity to actually floor it
, I think for the first time ever, and it instantly reset! Rest of the short trip was much better!
So, THAT'S what you mean by 'driving aggressively'! Ha!
Guess I've actually been driving like a 
all this time!
"But officer, I only did it to reset my TCU." 
Off topic; I always reset the TCU with "the procedure" while sitting in my garage, because it worked, and it seemed that 'driving aggressively' didn't do it. Yesterday I had the opportunity to actually floor it
, I think for the first time ever, and it instantly reset! Rest of the short trip was much better! So, THAT'S what you mean by 'driving aggressively'! Ha!
Guess I've actually been driving like a all this time! "But officer, I only did it to reset my TCU."
08-09-2013, 11:56 AM
#74
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
In my opinion, downshift manually to gain power for the purpose to speed up is OK.
Downshift to slow down at stop sign is just laborious for the transmission for no good reason.
I can be wrong; this is another old school thinking.
Downshift to slow down at stop sign is just laborious for the transmission for no good reason.
I can be wrong; this is another old school thinking.
08-09-2013, 01:05 PM
#75
MBWorld Fanatic!
I hear ya on missing the stick shift; wish my knees were in better shape... 
I shift manually most of the time. If I have a passenger, who is not and enthusiast, I use "D". But this is not often.
If you have the windows down and a robust exhaust (like mine) you can here the exhaust reaction to the ECU/TCU downshifting as you slow down. It seems to shift down about 300-400 rpm later than I generally do manually.
I guess technically this is increased wear; but then so is letting it warm up and rev down at idle before driving off; nothing is free.... but it's easy to forget this when we're having fun.
I shift manually most of the time. If I have a passenger, who is not and enthusiast, I use "D". But this is not often.If you have the windows down and a robust exhaust (like mine) you can here the exhaust reaction to the ECU/TCU downshifting as you slow down. It seems to shift down about 300-400 rpm later than I generally do manually.
I guess technically this is increased wear; but then so is letting it warm up and rev down at idle before driving off; nothing is free.... but it's easy to forget this when we're having fun.
