Possible reason for P0104 (MAF VAF circuit intermittent)
 

Changed my MAF so that can't be it but I did notice my intake(s) had 4 clips... Where the air filters are housed, I noticed it wouldn't stay flush/put, reason being 3/4 clips were on and 1/4 wasn't attached to the intake box, it was stuck on the "nubs" where the clips supposed to attach to, is this the reason why my cars telling me P0104 (MAF VAF circuit intermittent). I took the clip off the "nub" attach it back to the air box and so far so good no codes. Is this a possible reason?

It's definitely a possibility. If the air filter housing (engine cover) doesn't fit securely around the MAF sensor opening, it can affect the volume of air and that can cause problems. usually it's just a rough idle, but I suppose it could throw a code.

To me it makes sense, the clip closest to the MAF or top left was not attached properly, maybe causing it to intermittently cause problems :/

Rough idle... Mines at a cold start revs to just above 1100-1000 rpm then within 20 seconds goes down to 800. That's "normal"?

Vacuum leaks can cause fast idle, but that doesn't sound too fast. You will get an initial fast idle right after the engine starts, but ti should quickly settle down to just over 500rpm.

Correction idles at 600rpm :D

That sounds normal. I watched my CLK550 when I went out earlier today and on a cold engine, it was running just over 1,000 RPM in park for about 20 seconds, then it came down to about 700 RPM and when I put it in reverse, it dropped to 500 RPM.

Strange mines stays at 600rpm while put in reverse doesn't move at all.

It may be that the 5.5l M273 idles slightly slower, or, there is an adaptation program for idle speed and ours may be set differently.

I guess so, happened again more often then ever, only way to correct it is to restart the car but MIL is on still. Codes came up PO104 and PO221

Ps my dip stick cap is missing shouldn't b an issue/problematic right?

Finally going to get a SDS check from dealer tmr but my issue went away, should I bring it with the problem or restart it and bring or in? It should b stored, I have an hr of free check shouldn't take that long to get all possible codes?

So where did you get the replacement MAF sensor? Is is a genuine MBZ or Bosch? if not, those cheap aftermarket MAF sensor tend to be problematic.

Oh, and I would stop by the parts counter and get a new dipstick cap.

I got the part for a local parts store "German Parts.ca" located in Toronto. On the receipt the part # is 113 094 00 48

On the yellow Bosch box I see # 0 280 217 810

Ps I'm typing the numbers as I see them, did they give me the wrong part? Just looked at my old part and it's the same/correct.

Update!
 

Just what I was afraid of, the car drove just fine no CEL/MIL

Got the same codes as my OBDII
P0104 (MAF VAF circuit intermittent)
P0221(TPS/pedal position sensor switch ckt range/performance)

Used to have this code not sure what happened it's gone now
"P0456 (Evap emission control system leak very small)"

New codes are P203B, P207B
Mech said not important as MAF sensor... I told him I changed it already and didn't say anything about TPS. I thought I'd get a fix but I'm stuck where we r now.

There's plenty more codes but wasn't allowed to have a copy :/ so I copied the motor codes.

OK, an MBZ or Bosch MAF sensor should be good. I think the evap leak code is not related. Have you tried recalibrating the TPS? Instructions are on the forum - it's often call an "ECU reset" or "TCU reset".

That's what I told the mech, granted that's the code he got from the car. Yes every 200km 120 miles or so. But now that it's getting worse as in happening more often, it doesn't work anymore. Example when the car malfunctions I'll pull over and do the ecu/tcu reset usually it works. But not this time. Note it happens usually my second trip, going to the store is fine but starting the car the second time that's when it malfunctions; turning it off and on usually works. This time I'm going in the second is malfunctions lol

Just about to bring the car in and it fixed itself :/ haven't changed the air filter since I got the car, only "brushed it off" or shake it. Haven't bought the dipstick cap yet either, would having a dip stick cap missing cause some sort of vacuum leak or anything?

The missing dipstick cap would have no bearing on this.

Problem still persist, common occurrence is after a short trip 5-10 min drive turn off car then drive again within 30 mins and after a few mins it studders/hesitates. Recently clean MAF sensor (yesterday), ran just fine, replaced MAF a few months ago (assuming that was the problem) usually restarting after a few mins solves the issue but what does restarting doing to the car? Runs without the sensor?

You could try unplugging the MAF sensor to see if things change. This will probably throw some errors and trigger an MIL, but don't worry - it will clear itself. If it runs better or no change without the MAF sensor, then I would suspect the MAF sensor is bad. If it gets worse, then it's likely not the MAF sensor.

Should I do this when it acts up? Or when ever? I will do this tmr and report back, today was just fine though. Side note checked battery with multimeter (couldn't find out how to see it in the dash display) it reads 12.4v and while car is on 14.4v. I read that a drop in voltage would mess things up so I drove without turning on my 1000W sound system, when I'm bored I play with the DVD without the car running, same day the car is acting up.

Voltage problems usually cause electrical gremlins like cluster messages, and other errors.