Change brake oil only from the top master reservoir !?
 

Folks, saw a quick youtube video and a search here on the forum but did not find anything related. The youtube video mechanic suggested changing the brake fluid in the master reservoir a few times will pretty much ensure near new brake fluid in the entire system w/o the need for bleeding the calipers as most of the fluid is stored in the reservoir.

He further added that most mechanics do just that. Does that sound right for MB cars as well !? I intend to do just that. Dealership is charging $120 for the job. But then I am not sure if they will bleed.

My last brake fluid change was around 25-30k miles and I currently have 57k miles. No issues with ABS or braking. Had done my first pads and rotors change around 48k miles.

Also in terms of oil, on this site, somebody mentioned use of Wal-mart Prestone Dot4 is ok. Ok to mix with the Dot4+ in the car currently !?

Thanks

No, No, No! The fluid must be flushed. And DOT 4 is no good - you need a fluid that is designed to take the range of temps the car requires. I have been unable to find a suitable fluid locally, so I end up ordering ATE Gold ( I used to get Blue, but they stopped selling it). It's a DOT 4 fluid that meets (actually exceeds) the wider temp ranges required.

???

You gotta stop trying to half ass ****.

Get yourself a motive power bleeder, and their bleed bottle. All you really need to do is take the wheels off. Its very easy. Oh, and start passenger rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front.

Also, use a turkey baster to suck fluid out of the reservoir first, fill with new fluid, then flush.

and don't ever let the reservoir run dry.

ok, thanks guys, wife's not comfy with me doing the brakes, also complaining that I am buying too many tools and they are taking up too much space. Dealer is charging $110 for the job, MB oil is $20. Pump one time cost is $50 something. I was thinking if I should just take it to the Dealership and not worry for another 25k miles. They are the brakes after all and do not want to take chances with air getting in the system.

Now, do not flame me for asking this, what is wrong with the method suggested by Eric the Car guy - his has nearly a million hits and 5000+ likes. And not one comment has flamed him for suggesting that.

Second, do the Car or Brake system give any indication as to it is time for a change !? Like I said, brake system is working flawlessly currently. It won't be that one fine day, it will just stop braking because I did not change my brake fluid, correct !? I should see some symptoms of poor brake fluid.

-jigs

Yes take it to the shop. It is a messy DIY. Brake fluid is not recycled. What is in the lines stays in the lines hence changing just the reservoir will not affect any of the fluid in the system.

Well, the decision is made then!

Seriously, you and your wife need to have a conversation about this. The closet is "her space" to fill with shoes, the garage is "his space" to fill with tools. And neither shall complain of the other. And for you guys who, as I, who have a lot of shoes, and for you ladies who like tools, no disrespect was intended.

For $110 and your wife's happiness (which will most likely contribute to your happiness), I's day that's reasonable.

OK, let's try this. Go buy a quart of milk and put it in the fridge. Let it sit there for at least week past it's "sell through" date so that it smells and tastes rotten. Instead of dumping it out and replacing it with fresh milk, just take out about 4 ounces, and replace it with 4 ounces of fresh milk. So, does that make the whole container now worthy of drinking? :)

Brake fluid goes "bad" from three things - moisture, contaminates, and heat. It gets heat form the brakes on the rotors. It gets contaminated from fine particulate as the cylinders actuate, and even though it's a closed system, the seals are not 100% so it can still absorb moisture from the environment. MBZ engineers seem the believe that after about two years, it's had "enough".

:) thanks guys, will take it to the dealership then. Hopefully they bleed and not pull ErictheCarGuy on me.

$110 for the dealership to do it is worth it... Wait until you need pads and rotors then get your tools out. :rolleyes: