driver's window switch pops off....
 

I did some searching and, while there have been a few mentions of replacing window switches, it doesn't seem to be a common problem. My passenger side window switch (on the driver's door) has long had an issue where it would partially pop up when raising the window, but it has never come completely off. Now out of nowhere the switch next to it often pops off and falls on the floor. Big PITA when it's 20° out and I'm doing 75mph. The switch part looks intact but am I just kidding myself and it must be broken?

It is broken. I had this problem in my 06 CLK350. The window switch breaks at the bottom and it does fall to the floor (and usually under the seat) and is a PITA. I did not see it as a common problem either. To replace the broken switch you have to replace the whole module. I don't remember how much it was but not that much. I kept the old part and the module has a short wire with a connector on it. I'm not sure if you have to remove the door panel to switch it out but maybe someone here can tell you if you simply pry the module up and disconnect it and fit it back in or you do have to remove the door panel. Even if you do have to remove the door panel it looked like a very easy swap clip wise. I am now aware of how hard I pull up on the switches, before I never really gave it much thought, which means I'm sure I'm the one who broke it.

This is a common problem. My 203 has the same switch and issue and my 209 was in the same boat. I saw a link to just the buttons once but read a review of bad fitment. You do have to pull the door card to change the switch but it is pretty easy.

if I could figure out how to remove a button without breaking it I could swap this one for one of the back windows!

I had the driver switch module replaced about 1.5 years ago because the window switch broke at the pivot point. I was able to open and close the window as long as I made sure I put my thumb on the pivot end and then operated the switch.

You do have to remove the door panel to change the module. I bought the part from a dealer and had my INDY replace it for $100 while he had the car for some other service.

I could still use mine also if I was careful to keep the switch pressed into place as I moved it to move the window. The problem was when someone else drove the car, usually at the car wash or a valet, the switch would usually be pulled out and the hunt was on because if I had lost the switch there would be no controlling it from the driver's side. I finally figured life is too short to have to worry about it all the time so had it fixed. Mike.

hey, are these the clips that I should have on hand if I pull the door panel?

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....3Hu9r%2BzL.jpg

Yes, those are the clips. And you definitely have to pull the door panel. The wood is screwed in from the back, and the switches clip to the wood from the back. And the window switches and trunk release are all one piece. When you remove it from the wood, be careful to press them straight out. You will be tempted to grab the window switches and tilt one end up, which can break very thin pieces of plastic that hold the trunk switch in. Then you will also need super glue.

I may have a body shop do it. I'm bringing my daughter's ML350 in for an insurance claim while she's away for a week and I've already arranged for the guy to paint and install a new side mirror I picked up for her; maybe I can find the window switches (I'm seeing $90 shipped) and the KG door handle (they're all over the place but +/-$115) in time....Oh, and my steering wheel switches too!

It's not a hard DIY to change out the switch module with a new one, the switch modules just plug in. If you go easy on the door panel when removing you can probably reuse the same clips. There should be a picture tutorial on removing the door panel and that module either here or on YouTube.

There really isn't anything you can do about the clips breaking. They just do. MB sells a new design now that may hold up better. If you do remove the panel, post back and I can give you a couple tips.

The left rear passenger switch popped off in the driver's module 2 days ago and I glued it back with superglue and it seems to be holding.

I put the superglue where I could see the breaking points are and put it back in and applied pressure for 2 minutes and then left it to settle for the night.

The next day the switch would not move, but after gently wiggling it enough, it started moving and it's holding up well so far.

I'll be more gentle on it going forward and if it breaks again, then I'll just replace the module.

As I feared, the door panel was a challenge. Removal wasn't too hard, though there's a number of videos out there that say you have to remove the handle that you use to pull the door closed from inside (you don't). The only "surprise" was that the window switches were covered in a rubbery "bag" stuck to the back of the door card; no big deal though until I started reinstalling. What clips I didn't break removing I have broken since trying to get it back on; can't seem to get the front of it low enough. I think there's an install video on YouTube that I dismissed as unhelpful for removal. I had bought some plastic interior trim tools and I wish I had picked up a bunch of the clips while I was there. It seems like I somehow have the panel misaligned at like 350°,such that the clips at the left bottom line up okay, but the right bottom and right side are a little high and left.

I finally gave up and at least got the door closed and locked. I had hoped to get it squared away this morning before the rain started but it's pouring buckets now. Once it's clear I'm torn between going out and buying more clips and trying to get it perfect or just getting the 2 T-30 bolts back in along with the trim around the latch and calling it a day.


Curious how you made out here as I may mess around with my old part. There's a British guy on YouTube that goes above and beyond with his repair efforts. I haven't even seen the whole 25 minutes yet but his determination is admirable...

There are really only two "tricks" to reinstalling the door panel. The trickiest part is that long rubber channel along the top of the door that the top of the panel goes in. That wants to pull off the door with the panel. You need to make sure it is correctly back on the door, then make sure the panel correctly presses down into the groove when you put the panel on. Otherwise the panel will not sit down far enough.

The second trick is that is the plastic "J hook" on the door that the panel has to go up and over. You'll see it. It's sort of below where the seat controls are. Make sure the panel is hooked over that at the same time you deal with the rubber channel.

my rubber stayed on the door; the interior has a stiff cardboard ridge bent at a 90° angle that fits into a slot; I can only hope I'm in the right slot.

that plastic "hook" is attached to my door card/door panel, just behind the seat control, and it seems to fit into a fairly tight "slot" on the door. with that in place and the the top of the panel seemingly correct up by the door lock plunger, I can snap the clips (if they weren't broken) at the left bottom lined up, but the right bottom and right side are a little high and left of the holes they're aimed at.

EDIT: after watching that YouTube video with the RHD repair of the window switch, I wonder if I'm not hanging the top of the panel tight enough to the window rubber??

Holy Moly! $20 on eBay!!?? Can this be legit?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Window...0/263120043052

I think you are correct, the hook is on the panel. Been a while. It should be obvious which slit your a panel goes into on the rubber.

It's probably legit in that it is a Chinese copy. Mine has the trunk closer button and I bet the Chinese don't make those because it was fairly rare.

That's for a W203 C- Class - I don't think it will fit the CLK. However, I did put one of those on my C240 when its switches broke and it worked just fine.

Good points both; I didn't notice the single trunk button being different from our two button open/close....I searched seller's other items and he does not have our part, #2098200610 but another seller does for $115.99 shipped. I just ordered a pair of the window buttons 2038200110 and I'm gonna rebuild my original unit and resell! For future readers of this thread, if you have the time and energy and want to save +/-$100 on this DIY repair you can remove the switch, replace the buttons and reinstall....

https://www.ebay.com/p/2x-Window-Swi...209/1474270102

turns out these two tips were key! I ended up putting a long plastic tube (like a straw) over the door lock plunger to keep it in the hole while I futzed around until I got it seated properly. It was a PITA and I'm in no hurry to fix my broken seat control in the passenger door but at least now I know how much aggravation to expect!

Ah yeah the door panels are unnecessarily hard to put back on. It's one of the few things I dread doing on this car. This along with putting the rear interior panels on. The clips are also amazingly brittle for no apparent reason.

yeah, the generic clips I bought at a local auto store are much sturdier....

Hey thread subscribers: turns out 2038200110 is NOT the part number for the buttons themselves, and the cheap Chinese (or Turkish) knock-offs don't match. Anyone know the OEM part number for the button/switch/covers themselves??

Pretty sure OEM you need the entire assembly, if you are looking just for switches.