W209 DIY strut replacement advice - Don't do it
#1
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
W209 DIY strut replacement advice - Don't do it
So I'm a major DIY person, and planned on replacing my own struts and strut mounts. Got a spring compressor and was all set. Took only 20 minutes start to finish to pull a strut off. About 4 minutes later I knew it wasn't going to happen. The springs on the sport suspension are so short that you can only get the compressor over a couple coils. Nothing like the tutorials on Youtube with springs with 6 or 7 coils. Probably no way I could get enough compression. But also, the base where the spring sits is so wide that it contacts the threads on the compressor, so that even if I tried, once I had it compressed the threads would be so tight against that base that I could never pull the strut out. Also, that wide rubber "hat" at the top interferes a great deal getting the compressor on. Didn't pass my life is too short test, so I took them to an indy to assemble and I'll put them back on.
#2
MBworld Guru
I assume you have a two-finger spring compressor? I have always been told you need to use the three-way compressor on these MBZ springs. Of course another option is to buy the whole assembly with new (or refurb) springs installed.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Yeah, if I had perfect hindsight I would have bought the whole assembly, but I stupidly thought that at 64k miles the mounts would still be good. First world problems I guess.
#4
Junior Member
Yep, I tried to change strut mounts too with two-finger compressor. Couldn't. Then went to local indy and paid 10euros to compress springs and replace strut mounts.
#6
Junior Member
Is this on the rear?
I couldnt compress either. After first time things were still wrong.
So when I put them back I looked for the old marks at the top to find positioning.
I then slowly raised the spring with the spring control arm + jack.
:-) Probably not at all the best way... but all I could do. Worked out fine
I couldnt compress either. After first time things were still wrong.
So when I put them back I looked for the old marks at the top to find positioning.
I then slowly raised the spring with the spring control arm + jack.
:-) Probably not at all the best way... but all I could do. Worked out fine
#7
Senior Member
On the front we managed with 3, two prong compressors. However we had to use a bunch of rope off one of the bats to keep them compressed while we could grab another turn or two.
Very difficult with the sport springs.
We then looked at the WIS instructions and it showed they use a wind up compressor which are cup like. So we've bought one of those, it'll make any future jobs so much easier, and it was only about £100.
The other issue we had was in taking the retaining nut off the top of the shock off! Very difficult, had to manufacture a tool in order to remove that.
All in all an easy job with the right tools, but a PAIN with anything else! Hahah
Very difficult with the sport springs.
We then looked at the WIS instructions and it showed they use a wind up compressor which are cup like. So we've bought one of those, it'll make any future jobs so much easier, and it was only about £100.
The other issue we had was in taking the retaining nut off the top of the shock off! Very difficult, had to manufacture a tool in order to remove that.
All in all an easy job with the right tools, but a PAIN with anything else! Hahah
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Well I managed to do it with 2 spring compressors but the distance between the coils is too small to use them properly. It was a pain in the *** but doable. Next time, if I have to do it I'll buy something like this:
#9
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2004 Mercedes Benz CLK500, 2001 ML320, 2005 ML500
Mega, The hydraulic spring compressor you have pictured maybe will work on a c/clk. The trouble with most of them is they only have 11.5" to 13" of travel.
The c/clk front springs are 16.4" long end to end uncompressed, with the distance of the strut spring seat and top bearing hat, you need approx. 18" opening to make it easy.
I have seen fake sidewinder spring compressors (looks like the factory tool) work but make it has the flat point acme threads, instead of normal pointed threads, which strip easier.
With the mechanical 2 finger compressors, make sure your life insurance is up to date when using on a c/clk.
The c/clk front springs are 16.4" long end to end uncompressed, with the distance of the strut spring seat and top bearing hat, you need approx. 18" opening to make it easy.
I have seen fake sidewinder spring compressors (looks like the factory tool) work but make it has the flat point acme threads, instead of normal pointed threads, which strip easier.
With the mechanical 2 finger compressors, make sure your life insurance is up to date when using on a c/clk.
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Mega, The hydraulic spring compressor you have pictured maybe will work on a c/clk. The trouble with most of them is they only have 11.5" to 13" of travel.
The c/clk front springs are 16.4" long end to end uncompressed, with the distance of the strut spring seat and top bearing hat, you need approx. 18" opening to make it easy.
I have seen fake sidewinder spring compressors (looks like the factory tool) work but make it has the flat point acme threads, instead of normal pointed threads, which strip easier.
With the mechanical 2 finger compressors, make sure your life insurance is up to date when using on a c/clk.
The c/clk front springs are 16.4" long end to end uncompressed, with the distance of the strut spring seat and top bearing hat, you need approx. 18" opening to make it easy.
I have seen fake sidewinder spring compressors (looks like the factory tool) work but make it has the flat point acme threads, instead of normal pointed threads, which strip easier.
With the mechanical 2 finger compressors, make sure your life insurance is up to date when using on a c/clk.
The one I used was like this...it worked...but yeah it crossed my mind to check if my life insurance is up to date before doing it haha.
Regardless...spend the 35$ and have a mechanic do it. It's not worth the hassle.
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
I managed with 2 prong compressors. I didn't feel 100% safe and would not do it again. Definitely need proper wall mounted unit to have a good time. Luckily it was when I installed the coilovers so no compressing required for those springs, just sit on them and do the screw up.
I am sure I will experience similar joys with airmatic in the future.
I am sure I will experience similar joys with airmatic in the future.
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Well at least the new struts make the car ride night and day difference. The left side had pretty much dumped its whole load of oil, and the right was leaking. What I don't get is why a strut that loses it oil does not make the suspension all bouncy like when a traditional shock goes bad. It was not bouncy at all, just very harsh like the springs had been replaced with concrete.
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Never looked into them specifically but the one in the pic is 8-22in supposedly...so I guess that one would actually work?
The one I used was like this...it worked...but yeah it crossed my mind to check if my life insurance is up to date before doing it haha.
Regardless...spend the 35$ and have a mechanic do it. It's not worth the hassle.
The one I used was like this...it worked...but yeah it crossed my mind to check if my life insurance is up to date before doing it haha.
Regardless...spend the 35$ and have a mechanic do it. It's not worth the hassle.
#14
Member
Well, I hope you dont mind me saying that "dont do it" is the worst advice ever! Haha.
Im going to provide you with the secret thats fast, reliable, and cheap (hard to find that combo in cars!)
http://www.harborfreight.com/single-...sor-43753.html
Its single action so you dont have to go side to side like you do with those cheap 2 pc compressors. With the restraints, you never have to worry about the spring coming loose. And its probably a cheaper tool than what a shop would charge you to do this. So, again, fast (single action, not dual), reliable (little to no chance of spring coming loose), cheap ($65 at HF).
Now you may change the title of your thread!!
Im going to provide you with the secret thats fast, reliable, and cheap (hard to find that combo in cars!)
http://www.harborfreight.com/single-...sor-43753.html
Its single action so you dont have to go side to side like you do with those cheap 2 pc compressors. With the restraints, you never have to worry about the spring coming loose. And its probably a cheaper tool than what a shop would charge you to do this. So, again, fast (single action, not dual), reliable (little to no chance of spring coming loose), cheap ($65 at HF).
Now you may change the title of your thread!!
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
I am aware of that tool. And note that on the HF website its reviews are not great. But the more pertinent question is: Have you in fact successfully used that tool on a W209 with sport suspension?
#16
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
And I will also note that because the sport suspension has so few coils, they take off from the base at a very steep angle. The arms on each side of that tool are in a fixed relationship to each other - the two sets of arms can be moved closer and farther apart, but the arms in each set are fixed in relation to each other. Given how steep the coils are, I'd like to see a picture of that installed on such a spring. I will, as they say, believe it when I see it. Until such time I will leave my post title as it is.
#17
Member
Meh, the reviews arent that bad. 3 star for a HF tool is pretty common.
I bought this tool specifically for the CLK. And actually have only used it on CLKs to this point. Ive used it on the stock CLK500 suspension (dont believe it was the "sport" option). I used it with lowered springs (Eibach and Brabus). Ive used it on stock struts and on Bilstein Heavy Duty struts as well.
I will say this, if I owned a shop, I would buy a little nicer one. One that was designed to mount to a wall and used heavily. However, for the DIYer like myself, this thing has been far superior to any other compressor Ive used at this price point.
Its a bit heavy and bulky, and maybe a little awkward to use without another person. But that single action is far superior to the two claws that you can rent from tool stores.
If I have time this weekend, Ill throw an eibach spring in it and snap a picture.
I bought this tool specifically for the CLK. And actually have only used it on CLKs to this point. Ive used it on the stock CLK500 suspension (dont believe it was the "sport" option). I used it with lowered springs (Eibach and Brabus). Ive used it on stock struts and on Bilstein Heavy Duty struts as well.
I will say this, if I owned a shop, I would buy a little nicer one. One that was designed to mount to a wall and used heavily. However, for the DIYer like myself, this thing has been far superior to any other compressor Ive used at this price point.
Its a bit heavy and bulky, and maybe a little awkward to use without another person. But that single action is far superior to the two claws that you can rent from tool stores.
If I have time this weekend, Ill throw an eibach spring in it and snap a picture.
#19
Member
Haha, like I said in post #17, if I had a shop, I'd buy a really nice one. This? This is that nice one!!
However, for the DIYer, thats a bit out of the price range :P
However, for the DIYer, thats a bit out of the price range :P
This is what you need to use:
https://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/sir...0-P233324.aspx
It has three points of contact. It's also $650.
https://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/sir...0-P233324.aspx
It has three points of contact. It's also $650.