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Hi All,
I have just registered so I am new here but I would like to thank everyone that posts for all their insightful experience with problems and solutions.
I have read a lot of posts and found answers to many things.
I would like to share my convertible problem and the solution I found.
I have a (W209) 2008 CLK 350 convertible with AMG bodykit.
One day the roof started to not open fully but on a second try ( shut and retry ) it opened fully.
Then another day it would just stop half way.
Problem:
Pulling the soft top switch, the windows would all lower.
The rear compartment deck lid would pop up and slide back and unlock the rear window.
The rear window would raise up vertically
The windscreen latches would unlock
The deck lid would lift up vertically.
and then everything would stop.
I have no fluid leaks
and the hydraulic pump works.
I had read in these forums that the windscreen latch switch ( S84/18) might not be registering the roof/windscreen release or that Bow up/down switch ( S84/15 ) might not be registering the rear window up position.
I checked all these with multimeter and they were Ok.
Then I read from someone that the TWO yellow relays that are attached to the side of the Hydraulic pump might be faulty as they "reverse" the pump. ( thank you to the person that posted that thread )
As the Rams had lifted the hatch lid and window, the next step was the PULL or lower the window and roof into the boot and then the hatch lid.
It wasn't "pulling "
So, I took out the two yellow relays and took off the covers.
There was a grey/black deposit on the inside of the covers, which to my thinking meant something wasn't right.
I cleaned them up and replaced them. Still nothing.
Took them out again and carefully inspected them.
It appeared that the contact points ( made of silver ) on the underside of the contacts ( normally open side - hard to see ) were totally obliterated.
They weren't making contact, ( I'd guess that the current draw had initially arced and pitted and eventually burnt off the contact point ) see photo's.
I went to the local auto parts store and bought two similar relays, these relays are very common I discovered, the same size, the same numbering on the pins the same operation, make sure you buy relays with a resistor across the coil as the OE has.
These relays can cost between $5.00 - $20.00.
Some have a little plastic moulding on the cover to clip a metal bracket on, just shave this off with a knife so they fit flush into the sockets.
I put these in and Voila...perfect operation !
I am mentioning this solution as it the easiest and the cheapest to fix.
No pulling the car apart to find and test switches, which I and many others have done.
You can even check the relays without taking the boot lining out.
And you don't have to go to an MB dealer for expensive diagnostics.
So if your roof problem sounds similar to mine, have a look at the two yellow relays mounted next to the pump first.
Hi. Just had the same problem but changed relays with no go
my pump is stuffed & will replace it today. Would I have to disconnect the battery before starting the job ??
Hi, The 2003 CLK 320 ( W208) has a different set up I believe. Horizontal pump and more solenoids ( W209 has 4 solenoids ) . My two yellow relays are mounted on the side of the pump and apparently reverse the motor ?? to pull the roof in. The fuse for my setup is in the dash board end, 20 amp.
I would suggest disconnecting the battery, even try that first and reconnect, it might clear a fault code. I was fearing a new / rebuilt pump, difficult to undo all the fluid lines. luckily it was only the relays.
Good luck.
Thanks for the reply. Mine is w209 which the pump is in left of boot
easy to change I’ll disconnect the battery just in case a positive wire arcs somewh. Cheers. Have a great day
My wife's clk320 convertible has exactly the same problem as described by MBenz Aussie.
One day, opening the top, it stopped half way. Closed the roof and tried it again and it opened.
Now it always stopped opening at half way, exactly the same as Aussie's description. Closing the roof poses no problem.
So I replaced the two yellow relays, same problem as before.
I checked and found no broken parts such as the 'hinges' and 'compartment cover opened limit switch'. Doesn't appear to have hydraulic oil leak.
So more work is ahead....
I have a few questions:
1. Is iCarsoft MB2 able to scan soft top control module for faults, pump, limit switch open/close status?
2. I tried to disconnect the limit switch plug without success. Don't want to pull it too hard. Any trick?
Hi Mashe, My first two suspicions was either the rotating micro switches tucked in next to the big rams on the left..these two switches in a round plastic housing tell the relays to switch over from pushing open to pulling closed, I think the relays change the solenoid valves over, so fluid first of all goes into the bottom of the ram to open then to the top of the ram to close/ pull the ram. I first thought, as I said in my post, that it reverses the motor, but I now think that the solenoid valves re-route the hydraulic fluid to the bottom of the ram to push open, then to the top of the ram to pull close. My switches were fine.
The second suspect is the solenoid valves themselves... they dont push fluid into the top of the ram to pull the roof down into the boot.
I thought the OE "yellow" relays have a design flaw, when they switched over, the contact didnt quite make contact because the "plate" rested on the housing when closing , and therefore burnt off the contact point. I didn't buy Yellow relays again, but Narva brand.. if you have that brand...but there are many brands with the same configuration...just remember to buy ones with the resistor across the coil.
The other suspect was the ram in the roof on windscreen edge that locks / unlocks from the windscreen or the switch in the top of the windscreen to say it's unlocked. thats pretty easy to test, because if you can lift the roof by hand when it reaches that sequence then it should be ok.
My suggestion would be to first take the covers off the two relays and check that the contact points are still good.
I hope this helps...there's so many parts to the sequence.
Are the two switches S84/15, soft top bow limit switch? How do you disconnect the leads to test?
The solenoid theory is quite intriguing, i'm wondering if this particular solenoid is not involved in closing the roof.
I did replaced with two new relays with no luck.
I still think it's the relays. My roof did the same as yours, it would half open, then I would close it and retry and it would open fully. A simple test for the switch S84/15. if you can disconnect the swing arm, it just pulls out off the metal bow, ( the one pointing down in the picture) and move it around by hand, you should be able to hear the switch click. Like most of the switches, if you can here them click they should be okay. Because your roof opening is intermittent, like mine was, it could be the relays still. And because it does work or did, the control electronics are probably Okay too.
The second attempt works when the trouble starts. Afterwards It got worse, the second attempt fails too.
The wind screen is unlocked, I can push it open a bit.
Sorry, that last photo was I think S84/3, the one behind the back seat, which no one wants to test because you have to pull all the back seat out and the rear side panel. A real pain ! This photo is S84/15, on the bow arm. you have to open the roof manually, or half way and you can get to it, unclip that half open clip and rotate by hand and listen to the switches. S84/13 is doubtful too. but it's easy to take that part, but again, you can usually hear the switches clicking, unclip the plastic housing off the top of the ram and slide it up and down...I tested this too, mine was fine.
The R230 SL has a great diagnostic aid for its hydraulic top, but nothing existed for the W209 CLK. So, I took the format of the R230's and created one for the W209:
Take a look at this and see if it helps. And definitely if you see anything I have wrong or incomplete, or just want to add to it, let me know. It's a work in progress, and i have made several revisions over time, but since I no longer have my CLK, I can't "out hands on" to verify.
I have been reading lots info regarding the soft top problem. You have contributed greatly to this community, very much appreciated.
I'll study the diagnostic aid.
By the way, do you know scanners like iCarsoft MB2 or Autel MD802 all system are able to interface with the soft top controller and read fault code, switch status?
I've never used an iCarsoft of Autel, but my understanding based on their advertising, is yes, they will rear the soft top control module (note that it's called RBC - Roll Bar Controller).
Hi UsedCLKOwner, sorry for the delay, I have been away on holidays. I didn't use the mercedes part number but bought similar or identical relays from an auto parts supplier, I bought a Narva brand, not sure if that is an international brand, but they are a common relay in all cars, but make sure they have a resistor across the coil...there are two types. They cost between $5.00 - $15.00 each in whichever currency. I swapped out both as both were faulty...cheap enough to buy two. easy to plug in. Hope this helps.
I've gone through all the threads on the convertible top issues; I've been trying to find how to figure our is my switch is bad. I get no action when I pull on the switch; windows don't lower, no sound, no indication on the dash. Should I just go ahead and replace the switch - it cost $200 on the web and it an easy replacement?
No, you need to get a scan tool that can read codes from the soft top controller and see what is wrong. SDS is best, but iCarsoft i980 and MBII or Autel MD802 Elite will work, too.
Hi dadmeek, I doubt its the switch, they are pretty robust. However the easiest way is to to take the switch out and bridge / join / touch the wires together to see if it works at all without the switch. It could be a fuse in either the side of the dash or in the trunk near the pump.
06-02-2018, 06:34 PM
