HETPE3B

xsever

Which year and model is your car?

You may also want to change the pilot bushing connector. Do a bit of research on that and you'll find plenty of information in this regard.

As for the conductor plate, yes it's known to fail, but I wouldn't go as far as changing it before it fails unless you don't mind spending the money for the peace of mind.

HETPE3B

Rudeney

@HETPE3B: Please take a moment to visit the User Control Panel and update your profile to include your car model and year, and your location (at least country). This information will then appear below your name and avatar on the left side panel next to each post you make. This will greatly help others to give you better information. If you are using the mobile version of the site, you will need to switch to the "full" version to get to the User Control Panel.

Here are the WIS docs for changing fluid and filter:

http://benzbits.com/722_6/FluidFilterChange.pdf

And her'es the flush:

http://benzbits.com/722_6/TransmissionFlush.pdf

The pan drop and filter change will need 4-5 quarts of fluid to refill, then the flush requires about 14 quarts.

HETPE3B

Thanks for the info! In regards to my profile - I guess it's filled out - I'm in US and I drive Sienna 99.9% of the time

Rudeney

Um, I can;t help much with the Sienna, except to suggest you sell it. I'd put the MY2004 CLK500 in your profile.

HETPE3B

I did have quite a few cars previously (German and Japanese) , but Sienna won by faaaar from any single one of them starting from budget Japanese, e.g. Accord, and finishing X166 GL63 that I sold almost 2 years ago I usually don't keep the car for more than a year. I did keep beemer for 3 years, but Sienna is now at 6 years in my family and counting
But in regards to the tranny fluid flush - since I will be replacing the radiator (just to be on a safe side) I simply will use the radiator fluid inlet hose instead of the cooling line connection by the transmission, I guess the procedure is still the same - same hose, just different location point.

So this is my checklist:

- 14l of transmission fluid (any preferable brand? Pentosin ATF 1-LV or Pentosin ATF 134 or Liqui Moly or something else? )
- new radiator (probably I will choose Behr)
- transmission lines rubber o-rings (for the radiator) - does someone know the part number?
- new transmission pan gasket
- drain plug copper gasket
- new filter
- new pilot bushing connector

What am I forgot?

Rudeney

An extra 5l of transmission fluid for the initial refill after replacing the filter, before using the 14l for the flush. And yes, you are correct about using the lines at the radiator for the flush - same thing, different location.

Rudeney

Oh yeah, and coolant! If it isn't pre-mixed, then use distilled water for the 50/50 mixture.

Regarding the Toyota, I have a very special disdain for anything Toyota. It's a long story, but my wife had leased a Lexus IS. The sales process was a nightmare as the dealership pulled out all the "scumbag" tricks. Then she ended up hating the car due to many problems and it just not being a good vehicle. We bought out the lease and resold it privately before the end of the term. Lexus would not provide the proper paperwork showing the tax breakdowns required by the DMV so I had to forge that (the total was correct, just no city/county/state details). They were quite rude about it, too. Then, a week after the car sold, I get served with "cease and desist" papers from their lawyers. They were threatening to sue me because I had illegally used their copyrighted and trademarked images (i.e. photos of our car I took myself and put on Autotrader) and that, "only authorized Lexus dealers may sell Lexus vehicles". Nothing ever came of it, but the entire experience from the initial purchase, to ownership, to selling the vehicle and then getting those threats put a VERY bad taste in my mouth.

HETPE3B

I guess, your experience pretty much is not related to the actual vehicle, but to the service being provided to you by some a**h****. I was referring to the mechanical reliability of the vehicles So far my GL63 remains on the bottom of the list in regards to the time spent in service

I found it interesting, that the transmission flush procedure points to the fluid temperature to be at 80 degrees C. To me it sounds weird, because it's being flushed with the "room temperature" fluid, making the instant 60 degree drop, which I think does more bad than good. The only logical explanation I'm finding is that fluid expends a lot and it will drain more volume than being room temperature.

Also I think 15-16qts of fluid will be OK for the filter replacement and the flush. Probably it will make 90% of the clean fluid.

Can anyone confirm that this is the correct part number for the o-ring for transmission cooling line that connects into the radiator? A0199975745
I can't seem to find this part on the picturs on nemigaparts website..

Rudeney

Actually, the IS was not very reliable. It did spend a bit more time int he shop than I would have liked, and nothing we took it in for was ever fixed. The mirrors (all of them) vibrated so violently that they were unusable above 40mph. The door checks were non-existent. The keys failed multiple times (thankfully they towed for free), the exhaust rusted out, and there were more squeaks and rattles than we could count. Oh, and the wipers quit working, as well as the sunroof. All before 20K miles. That;s why we got rid of it.

Regarding the fluid flush, I think the temperature is so that the fluid will flow better. I don't believe adding in cold fluid will be an issue. It will heat up very quickly. Part number for the cooling line seal is A0289976248.

HETPE3B

Thanks Rudeney!

Not sure where to post - here or in my parting out thread

HETPE3B

Folks, how do you think - will I be able to use a fluid evacuator (Mytivac) for extracting the transmission fluid from the cooling line instead of turning the motor on for the pump to kick on? If this is possible I thought I could drain the fluid from the pan, replace the filter, connector, gasket and then suck the remaining fluid from the system. And only then put fresh fluid thus minimizing the contamination of the fresh fluid with the old fluid...

Rudeney

No, you need the main transmission fluid pump running so that it will circulate oil through the torque converter. That's where half the fluid will be. If the car had a torque converter drain, then you wouldn't need the flush.

HETPE3B

I knew about the torque converter, I just wasn't sure if the vacuum created by the fluid evacuator would or wouldn't suck the fluid from the torque converter too. Based on your response - I guess won't do the trick
Thank you!

Rudeney

No, suction won't pull fluid from the torque converter because you end up with an air gap once the pan is drained.

HETPE3B

Rudeney

It's usually not an issue with the 722.6 as you have, but on the 722.9 it's sometimes a challenge to get the gasket perfectly positioned, especially in the curved areas of the pan. Maybe the gasket slid out of place when you put the pan in place? Or, if you used an aftermarket gasket, it could just be low quality. Genuine MBZ gaskets are usually only a few dollars more than aftermarket.

HETPE3B

HETPE3B

HETPE3B

HETPE3B

Ok, another update. Less drippings, but some are still there. I was wondering - there are 6 bolts with little brackets holding the pan in place. 5 of them are same shape, one is different, to accommodate the screw for the connector cover. So those 5 brackets which are similar - are they completely the same or they are different though? The reason why I'm asking is - there are stamping with the numbers on those. Some of them shown number "12", some of them number "9". Didn't check if there are others. May be they are different length or something? I just don't want to torque it to much risking to strip the holes in the transmission.

Rudeney

Other than the one for the extra screw, the other 5 are all identical. I would not use any sealant. But do place the pan upside down on a flat surface to make sure that its mating surfaces are plumb.

HETPE3B

Anker

Did you use the old bolts to secure the pan? You are not supposed to reuse the bolts but use new ones every time.