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2002 CLK55 AMG takes multiple cranks to start, and lots of other problems
Just recently, my 2002 CLK55 AMG refused to start, yesterday. I would crank it, and I would get a noise from the crankshaft and then it would stop. I have to repeat this 3-5 times until the car finally starts.
Also, the car refuses to switch from first gear usually until I start it a second time, so it takes a good minute to completely start my car.
About a week ago I bought a new battery because the old one was completely dead, and ever since the ABS and BAS lights come on every once in a while when I start my car.. Also, when I signal left, sometimes it switches between left and right on my dash and on my lights. AND earlier this evening I couldn't unlock my car electronically, I had to use the manual key.
I have also had a problem with my rear headrests not going down, I brought it to a shop and they believed it was a bad hydraulic pump relay in the back of the car, which caused the pump to keep staying on and thus draining the battery, but I am not sure since the car doesn't lose power when I crank it and it doesn't start, the lights stay on and there seems to be no power loss. About a month ago, I put the headrests up, and they made this high-pitched funky noise going up. Now they don't go down, and the convertible top doesn't go down either.
Any help? Is there an easy fix or am I going to have to replace the entire computer? I jump started it a few times and I've heard nightmares about ECUs getting fried because of too much voltage.
How much miles on this car?
sounds like a lot of small problems pretending to be a large one.
The engine starting and condition are obviously most important on the list.
Are you able to get some codes with a scan tool?
My first thought was the CPS, (crank position sensor) MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor).
More data needed:
There were not any codes when I checked yesterday. The car eventually starts so I doubt its the CPS but hey who knows.
The car has 116,000 miles on it.
If there are no codes then the fuel pump or relay has issues. or the spark plugs are original. you can pressure test while cranking.
Worst case could be ignition wiring.
There were not any codes when I checked yesterday.
A lot of people with standard ODB2 readers think this but if you have the car check with the proper code scanner you will find codes that point to your problem in most cases.
I would disconnect the battery then press the brakes and flash the lights to try to drain any charge left in the system. My guess is that there was a voltage issue with the battery you have there. What bettery did you put in it? My friend has an Audi A8 and the car had a possessed. Thank god he was able to stop it. Replaced the battery and all has been well for 3 years now. You would be shocked what battery's can do to a car. Dont believe me read the Range Rover or Audi forums...
I changed the relay last summer for the convertible top. I believe that the roll bars stopped working when the relay went on the hydraulic pump for the top. If you go to replace it try to use a cordeless drill with an socket on it cause there are a heck of a lot of bolts.
These cars are actually a lot more straight forward than people on here will lead you to believe.
I've learned that when it seems catostrophic it usually is a simple fix. It's the simple fixes that get you
I would replace the CPS if you won't I'm afraid one day it won't start at all and I guess it's going to be when the car needed most)))) for the electrical problems start with basics or plug it to a STAR
So did you figure out the problem? I have the exact same issue myself. My car did not want to crank and would take multiple times to start, and when it would finally start I would get the abs and bas lights on my dash, but they would go on and off as I drove. It sometimes doesn't want to unlock using the key button so I figured it was the battery but I got my battery and alternator tested and they were both fine. I figured it would be the starter so I replaced the starter and it started without a problem for a couple days but the abs and bas light still came on. And now it started with the whole not problem of it not wanting to start . I was recently driving and got a check engine light on as I was driving but my car was still driving fine . After I started my car again no check engine light came on and hasn't came on again. I scanned for any codes with an OBD2 but came back empty. I took the ECU out and checked for any damage but it seemed perfectly fine. My car also sometimes signals right when I switch the indicator to turn left, sometimes it works, and sometimes it goes back and forth between left and right. It's embarrassing to be driving like this and probably not safe . Any ideas of what it could be? or what process did you take to fix this problem if you did end up fixing it? Any help would be appreciated P.S I own a 2002 CLK320 with about 135,000 miles on it.
I have gotten my battery tested 3 times now and checked all the connections and they seem to be fine. I'm thinking it might be the ignition switch but will this cause any transmission issues? Yesterday I was driving my car in manual mode and sometimes it would get stuck in the gear that I was currently on so I had to pull over turn off my car and turn it back on for it to reset. Sometimes it would get stuck on 3rd sometimes 1st depending on what gear I was on. If it was stuck in gear sometimes it would brake hard then jerk forward and switch gears but would switch back to the D for drive position on the instrument cluster, It would also keep giving me abs and bas esp lights on and off constantly specially when I applied the brakes to stop. I didn't get any check engine light but I got code P0702- Powertrain (transmission Control System Electrical). Could this be caused by a bad ECU?
The shifter interface has become wet which requires coding of new unit, or the TCU is failed wicked up with transmission fluid from a leaking wire interface connection on the transmission wire connector.
These are not cheap but if you service on your own can be an easy fix.
Sorry to hear of the grief but I would start with a new or used shifter that is working first.
An inspection of the TCU under the passenger carpet foot well will determine if fluid as a culprit as well
After double checking everything I ended up figuring out the problem. Turns out the cable connected to the positive terminal of the battery was really loose and every time I would hit a bump on the road it would cause all of those problems. Not sure what the cable itself does but after tightening it all problems went away.
02-25-2016, 10:49 PM
. I was recently driving and got a check engine light on as I was driving but my car was still driving fine 
. After I started my car again no check engine light came on and hasn't came on again. I scanned for any codes with an OBD2 but came back empty. I took the ECU out and checked for any damage but it seemed perfectly fine. My car also sometimes signals right when I switch the indicator to turn left, sometimes it works, and sometimes it goes back and forth between left and right. It's embarrassing to be driving like this and probably not safe 
. Any ideas of what it could be? or what process did you take to fix this problem if you did end up fixing it? Any help would be appreciated 
P.S I own a 2002 CLK320 with about 135,000 miles on it.
