AWE

As most of those who are familiar with us know:

1) We run a 50,000 sq-ft high-line collision repair shop, specializing in BMWs and MBs here in SoCal, (and is 1 of 198 shops nationwide that is factory-authorized by BMW NA to refinish their brand new cars).

2) All our fleet cars are BLACK (E430, C32, ML320, 540i), which are all high-maintenance in terms of paint finish.

The question is, how do we maintain our black cars (like our 7-yr old 540i) to still have the same brilliance as if it were brand new with the least amount of work?

The answer is simple - don't let any foreign material (dust, water, droppings, etc) settle on the finish long enough to be baked-in. Remove or dust them off as soon as you can. Also, use a decent wax (Autosol, Zymol, etc.) once every month or two, in order to help repel these contaminants.

IN THE EVENT THAT you run into problems such as roughness and/or swirl and haze, here are tips we use at the shop:

What you need:

CLAY (preferably 3M, approx $29)
2000-grit sandpaper
1500-grit rubbing/cutting compound
Scratch/swirl remover
Carnauba Wax
GLAZE Wax
Water and car shampoo

CLAY (to remove baked-in surface contaminants) - using a mixture of shampoo and water, wash entire car then run clay lightly over the paint finish. Re-wash again, then wax to protect the paint.

COLOR SANDING (to remove stubborn scratch marks) - water away any dust particles and wipe clean. Mist affected area and sandpaper with water; run sandpaper very slowly in circular motion almost WITHOUT any pressure (just support the sandpaper so it doesn't fall away). Wipe clean and you should see a haze. Polish with the cutting compound using a terry towel until it starts to shine. Wipe clean and now polish with the swirl remover and finish off with wax.

SWIRL REMOVER and GLAZE WAX (to remove haze and halo effect) - apply one after the other after a good car wash...

IMPORTANT: Color Sanding is a risky process and requires detail attention. But when done right, the accomplishment provides impeccable results. (Color sand at your own risk!)

I hope this helps and feel free to email us at support@autowerksexpress.com

Good luck!

JamE55

Hey Randall!

Do you have some pics of your W210 with the Kleeman Supecharger on it? Want to see what that thing looks like. Also how's the performane? Rwhp?Torque? How much is the S/C? Also will this work on a E55 02. Pls let me know.


Thanks!

JamE55

2002 E55 AMG
Brilliant Silver
Stock for now but won't be for Soon!!!

David N.

Colour sanding is very very risky. I would advise against anyone on this board attempting this procedure. Scratches are a part of owning any vehicle. If you start colour sanding every time you get a scratch, you will:

A. spend alot of time colour sanding, and
B. Run the risk of sanding through your clear, and also your paint, and maybe even your primer. Then it will be bodyshop time. And you'll have to repiant the whole section where you sanded through.

Also, keep in mind that your clear coat is as thick as a a piece of saran wrap. All the layers of paint on your car are just as thick. In reality, there is not alot to work with.

Here are two links:

1. This outlines how to properly colour sand, should any of you be brave enough to try it. http://gotopia.net/ProductTests/3M%20Perfect-It.htm

2. Here is a horror story from someone who was brave enough to try it. http://216.147.22.29/forum/showthrea...?threadid=4569

Consider yourselves warned.

Clay is also a useful tool, but it should be used sparingly. Orange peel is also another part of owning any vehicle. You can't expect your car to constantly be showroom smooth. If it's driven everyday, it will take a beating.

JamE55

Really glad i got Silver!! I think silver is just right for my E55!!:p :p :p

Buellwinkle

While I've color sanded entire cars that had bad imperfections, that may be extreme for swirl marks. I use a foam pad buffer with a light machine polish and that takes most of the swirls off. I then wax and glaze the car. If I have a scratch that's worth color sanding it's just a localized area and I use 600 grit in one direction until the scratch it gone, 1000 grit perpendicular to the previous step until the 600 grit scratches are gone and then 1500 grit perpendicular to the previous step until the 1000 grit scratches are gone. Then I use an unstiched 10" cotton buffing wheel with a fine rouge to buff it out to a shine. If I'm lazy I'll use the foam pad buffer with a light polishing compound.

I learned my color sanding and buffing on high gloss polyester piano finishes so car finishes are way easier. Don't use high pressure on the sandpaper or buffer and make sure you are sanding/buffing with no dirt on the paint or you'll really make a mess.

JamE55

Hey Buellwinkle!

What if you have a light scratch like someone keyed it and the scratch was a little deep, how would you fix this? I thought i could just probably use a touch up paint and then when it dries up use a 1000 grit sandaper and then start applying wax and then buffing it?? Suggestions??

Thanks!

Buellwinkle

Depends where on the car it is and the color. Some of the places that do paintless dent also do airbrushing. They can either fill the scratch with polyester glazing putty (preferred) or just sand the scratch out and then airbrush over the area and then lightly wet sand and buff. I don't like using touchup paint on a deep scratch because most of the paint ends up outside the scratch and it never looks good. I've never tried it but Eastwood sells pens that you fill with touchup paint for your car and use that to draw the paint in. It's only 12.99 for 6. there's another post here with the same type of pen already filled for $20 but that's pricey for something that will dryout before you use it again. Also metalic paint is an issue as touchup paint never gets the metalic particals to look the same as the sprayed on finish. I use touchup paint in rock chips only by first cleaning out the chip with a fiberglass rust cleaning pen (found at Pep Boys) and then filling the chip with the paint using a paper match stick or small brush sever times until it dries higher than the surrounding paint. Wait a few days for it to cure. Using small pieces of wet sanding paper of about 600 grit attached to a block, sand it flush until the ring around the repair dissapears and then use 1000 grit, 1500 grit and polishing compound. What I used to do is shave the paint bump almost flat with a sharp chisel before sanding. Also Eastwood Company sells a small block shaver called a painters nib file to do the same thing.

I love doing touchup because it saves you bucks and the headache of repainting a panel. Don't discount re-painting a panel because most body shops I deal with will repaint a panel from $100-200.

Eastwood can be found at http://www.eastwoodcompany.com

JamE55

Thanks Buellwinkle! Will ive this a try!

bugfighter

Hey JamE55, I got the same problem. And I only had less than 100 miles on the new black E320 within a couple weeks of taking delivery on it and someone keyed the rear right door.

But silly me! I used some kind of kitchen appliance cleaner and tried to buff it. (It seemed to work excellently for a smaller paint ding on my brillian silver SLK 32.) Now, there's a faint splotch mark that's noticeable outdoors under the sun from certain angles.

Help, somebody!

JamE55

Hey bugfighter!

I've got one advice from a paintshop delaer saying to use some sort of a puty clay?? And then try buffing it out. Then wax it and then buff it out?? Has anyone tried this?


Thanks!

Buellwinkle

Clay is for deep cleaning the paint. It removes particles that are embedded in the paint that soap can't get out. If you run your hand across a freshly washed car and it feels a little rough as though there are a few fine sand particles stuck in the paint then claying will help. Get a kit like Mothers Clay that has instructions on how to do it. It does not remove scratches. You'll need to color sand, buff or re-paint.

David N.

Only use things that are clearcoat safe on your car. Kitchen cleaners are not!

In terms of fixing it: It depends on how deep the scratch is. If It's down to the bare metal and it's long, then you'll need to re-paint it. If it isn't down to the bare metal, then you may want to ask a pro to colour sand it for you. Colour sanding will also remove the haze you see from the kitchen cleaner.

JamE55

So where do you get this clay? And what kind is it?