Which Diesel to get?
04-29-2009, 10:20 PM
#51
Super Member
Books and records is always the best way to go. With that dealer service, even at 250k it should be good for quite a few more miles. My 85 w/311K starts on 30f mornings just like it does on a 100f afternoon; after a 1/4 crank typically.
I wouldn't worry about your TC too much. If performance drops off you might have it checked for stretch as they do stretch over time. There are woodruff keys available to correct it up to about 12* if I'm not mistaken. It prob has already gotten a 4* or 8* key along the way at your miles if it was as well maintianed as you say.
The best thing you can do for it is to feed it good ol D2 (not WVO or SVO), give it a valve adj every 20k, keep it cool with Zerox G-05 and change diesel rated dino oil every 3k or syn every 5-6k.
Good luck, and watch out for those Goat pellets.
I wouldn't worry about your TC too much. If performance drops off you might have it checked for stretch as they do stretch over time. There are woodruff keys available to correct it up to about 12* if I'm not mistaken. It prob has already gotten a 4* or 8* key along the way at your miles if it was as well maintianed as you say.
The best thing you can do for it is to feed it good ol D2 (not WVO or SVO), give it a valve adj every 20k, keep it cool with Zerox G-05 and change diesel rated dino oil every 3k or syn every 5-6k.
Good luck, and watch out for those Goat pellets.
Last edited by TMAllison; 04-29-2009 at 10:26 PM.
04-29-2009, 10:26 PM
#52
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Acura
Thanks TM.
I was even surprised to learn that the previous owner -older man that had a stroke - had his son-in-law take it to the dealer to make "make ready for sale" - as the invoice pointed out.
Additionally, I was going to view it last saturday, the son-in-law was driving it to the detail shop - felt something wrong with the brakes - took it to the dealer - $400 later the brakes are fixed and he didn't raise the price one cent!
Chris
I was even surprised to learn that the previous owner -older man that had a stroke - had his son-in-law take it to the dealer to make "make ready for sale" - as the invoice pointed out.
Additionally, I was going to view it last saturday, the son-in-law was driving it to the detail shop - felt something wrong with the brakes - took it to the dealer - $400 later the brakes are fixed and he didn't raise the price one cent!
Chris
04-30-2009, 12:22 AM
#53
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Late Built 2005 W-211 E-320 CDI
Really?
vales (Sic!)
You were ruined (Should have stopped your sentence right there) "as far as the W-123's went"
You are saying that your S-class W-126 requires less maintenance than a
W-123 300SD turbodiesel? Giveth moi a break! Talk about goat pellets!
Goat pellets indeed!
Here we are all (but YOU) trying to properly steer this young man who by his
own account is really excited about his purchase of a fine used MBZ, and
YOU come off with these goat pellets! Shame on you!
04-30-2009, 06:07 PM
#56
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1987 300 SDL
Krafcik,
Many here will have their preferences, but almost all will agree that the W126's (300SDL) Turbo during the 1986 and 87 were the finets cars ever made by MB. No gimmicks, no computers, just a tank. It may take a few more seconds from a stand still than other cars, but once they go they GO. Mine will cruise at 80 all day long for up to 550 miles, which is the tank's range (about 18 gals). The performance, comfort, and reliability is second to none. Try to buy one that is well kept and cared, since repairs could add up if maintenance was neglected. Don't worry about the millage so much since this car will last a million miles or more if maintained properly. Check book records and maintenace and beware of accident/wrecked and badly repaired cars. Check that the engine and tranny are good and running smooth. You will not be disapointed.
BERDE
Many here will have their preferences, but almost all will agree that the W126's (300SDL) Turbo during the 1986 and 87 were the finets cars ever made by MB. No gimmicks, no computers, just a tank. It may take a few more seconds from a stand still than other cars, but once they go they GO. Mine will cruise at 80 all day long for up to 550 miles, which is the tank's range (about 18 gals). The performance, comfort, and reliability is second to none. Try to buy one that is well kept and cared, since repairs could add up if maintenance was neglected. Don't worry about the millage so much since this car will last a million miles or more if maintained properly. Check book records and maintenace and beware of accident/wrecked and badly repaired cars. Check that the engine and tranny are good and running smooth. You will not be disapointed.
BERDE
Last edited by Berde; 04-30-2009 at 06:11 PM.
04-30-2009, 08:13 PM
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1987 SDL; 2001 Chevy 2500HD CC, 8.1L, Allison special order; 1970 GTO LS2, 4L60E, under construction
Krafcik,
Many here will have their preferences, but almost all will agree that the W126's (300SDL) Turbo during the 1986 and 87 were the finets cars ever made by MB. No gimmicks, no computers, just a tank. It may take a few more seconds from a stand still than other cars, but once they go they GO. Mine will cruise at 80 all day long for up to 550 miles, which is the tank's range (about 18 gals). The performance, comfort, and reliability is second to none. Try to buy one that is well kept and cared, since repairs could add up if maintenance was neglected. Don't worry about the millage so much since this car will last a million miles or more if maintained properly. Check book records and maintenace and beware of accident/wrecked and badly repaired cars. Check that the engine and tranny are good and running smooth. You will not be disapointed.
BERDE
Many here will have their preferences, but almost all will agree that the W126's (300SDL) Turbo during the 1986 and 87 were the finets cars ever made by MB. No gimmicks, no computers, just a tank. It may take a few more seconds from a stand still than other cars, but once they go they GO. Mine will cruise at 80 all day long for up to 550 miles, which is the tank's range (about 18 gals). The performance, comfort, and reliability is second to none. Try to buy one that is well kept and cared, since repairs could add up if maintenance was neglected. Don't worry about the millage so much since this car will last a million miles or more if maintained properly. Check book records and maintenace and beware of accident/wrecked and badly repaired cars. Check that the engine and tranny are good and running smooth. You will not be disapointed.
BERDE
Read 'em and weep goat lickers....
05-02-2009, 07:19 AM
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1987 SDL; 2001 Chevy 2500HD CC, 8.1L, Allison special order; 1970 GTO LS2, 4L60E, under construction
Listen to the king everyone. He won't tell you what problem (he doesn't actually know), but he sure does love telling you all what to do and not to do... This, of course, is based on his extensive Volvo repair experience.
05-03-2009, 02:37 PM
#61
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10-15-2009, 04:11 AM
#62
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1983 300d turbo
hey guys I just picked up a 1983 MB 300D with 191k on it. Im new to the Mercedes and still trying to learn the momenclatchure. A good friend got me hooked and also located me a car for a song. the girl who owned it could not get it to run. lots of vacuum leaks and just plain old miss run hoses. its running better but its not as strong as my friends 1984 300D. stuck deep in the learning curve.
10-17-2009, 01:04 AM
#63
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300D,560SEL,SL500
all the gas benzs i have ever delt with have beencrap 560SEL 190E and even the SL500 ****'s me off from time to time
whats all this bashing on the W123's i have ran these for years with no problems and well over the 300K mile range
im glad i read all this all these years i never knew i was driving unreliable underpowered (ok well the 220 i did) rattle boxes with bad transmissions and excessive maintanance
wow if what ive been driving is bad whats good
congrats on your purchase i love my W123's always have
whats all this bashing on the W123's i have ran these for years with no problems and well over the 300K mile range
im glad i read all this all these years i never knew i was driving unreliable underpowered (ok well the 220 i did) rattle boxes with bad transmissions and excessive maintanance
wow if what ive been driving is bad whats good
congrats on your purchase i love my W123's always have
10-20-2009, 03:10 PM
#64
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1987 300 SDL
Krafcik,
Again, my choice W126, W124, W123, and W210 in that order, preference and durability. But if you dont' need a full size (W126), then a W124 or W123 will be fine, but beware that a good deal requires that the previous owner has kept maintenace and taken care of the car. Ask for maintenance and repair records of the car. Check brake rotors, oil leaks, radiator for cracks, and AC should be blowing cold. Check for fuel leaks coming from pump or lines on the driver's side of the engine block. If you see an engine too clean, beware since is was probably steam cleaned to hide leaks. Ride it for a long strech and if you have a reputable shop, let them inspect the car before you buy. If the car needs a lot of maintenace done, you can negociate a rebate to cover for that. Check transmission should shift firm without reving. Check tires for uneven wear which is a sing of front end needing repair. If you fall in love with one, I recommed to check here if you have the time. If it has over 200,000 miles check if the timming chain, guide, and tensor were replaced. Try to get one with a staright body and good paint, since most mechanicals are easy to fix, but a rust bucket could be a money pit unless you own a body shop. Just my 2 cents! G.L.
Again, my choice W126, W124, W123, and W210 in that order, preference and durability. But if you dont' need a full size (W126), then a W124 or W123 will be fine, but beware that a good deal requires that the previous owner has kept maintenace and taken care of the car. Ask for maintenance and repair records of the car. Check brake rotors, oil leaks, radiator for cracks, and AC should be blowing cold. Check for fuel leaks coming from pump or lines on the driver's side of the engine block. If you see an engine too clean, beware since is was probably steam cleaned to hide leaks. Ride it for a long strech and if you have a reputable shop, let them inspect the car before you buy. If the car needs a lot of maintenace done, you can negociate a rebate to cover for that. Check transmission should shift firm without reving. Check tires for uneven wear which is a sing of front end needing repair. If you fall in love with one, I recommed to check here if you have the time. If it has over 200,000 miles check if the timming chain, guide, and tensor were replaced. Try to get one with a staright body and good paint, since most mechanicals are easy to fix, but a rust bucket could be a money pit unless you own a body shop. Just my 2 cents! G.L.
Last edited by Berde; 10-20-2009 at 03:19 PM.
10-21-2009, 06:20 PM
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2002 C240, 2006 E320 CDI
your stated choice of an '85 300 is a very good one! make sure it is a turbo diesel. it is the perfected MBenz diesel car.
first check on the condition of the interior for cracks and tears. secondly check on the over-all body condition for rusts/dents/accidents. lastly the mileage and condition of the engine.
the first check will show how well the owner took care of the car, garaged/never exposed to the harsh elements; leading to the second as to how well and careful he/she drove it. low and moderate mileage as against what the car can normally run to (about a million miles).
first check on the condition of the interior for cracks and tears. secondly check on the over-all body condition for rusts/dents/accidents. lastly the mileage and condition of the engine.
the first check will show how well the owner took care of the car, garaged/never exposed to the harsh elements; leading to the second as to how well and careful he/she drove it. low and moderate mileage as against what the car can normally run to (about a million miles).
