BBriBro

I just replaced my leaking delivery valve seals and now the car runs horribly, idles rough, TONS of black smoke. I have narrowed it down to cylinder #4, if I crack the fuel line I can "tune" it to idle smoothly by bleeding off some fuel in a "calibrated leak." In the bottom of the well under each delivery valve is a piece of sorts that the pressure valve carrier (7g) rests on, Can this piece be pushed down into the IP too far? It appears that my cyl 4 pressure valve is ever so slightly lower than the others. Is this part of the "calibration" when you have the injection pump overhauled? What holds that piece in place (under all the parts that come out when you remove the pressure valve holder)? Now go back 30 minutes, when re-installing that particular one, it went in kinda hard, however it also had some extra corrosion on the threads or around the top of the injection pump, I kept going thinking it was just friction of the o-ring on the gunk, my concern was tearing the o-ring, I had no idea I "could" be pushing something down inside of the IP. It's not really driveable the way it is, I'm tempted to leave that line cracked just so i can drive it to a shop (so much for it not leaking) but I'm afraid with it lose, it could easily back off too much and then that cylinder isn't getting enough fuel. The rear of the car is to the left of this pic.

CKonstantin

Hope this helps...

BBriBro

Interesting, That explains why the plunger has a keyway, it's the only part in this entire assembly that seems to be indexed. I've had the DVs apart several times now, comparing each one, and the one in question, the plunger is very hard to remove and install, the others are much easier, all it takes is a small magnet and they come right out. It's running without smoke now, but still idles rough, I think now it's not getting enough fuel in that cylinder, as it's down on power.

BBriBro

I've got it fixed! In case anyone is interested, I think what happened is that the whole assembly came out when I removed the delivery valve holder to change the seals, spring, pressure valve, even the sleeve below, then the sleeve fell back down into position without me even knowing, by the time I had it up to where I could see anything, all I had was the pressure valve carrier, spring, copper washer, etc, what you'd expect. I guess the fuel held things together just long enough. Apparently when I tightened everything back up, I pressed that sleeve down into the bore, forcing the pin that's supposed to engage the keyway back into the housing, this was very fortunate instead of bending it. You could see there was no pin in this particular bore, so I removed the side cover from the IP, and although you can't tell in the pic, the Pin for this valve appeared to be further out than the other 5, I tapped it back in place, and after a dead battery and a can of ether, it's running real good now, perfectly smooth and plenty of low end torque (I know sounds funny for the N/A engine, but try one on only 5 cyl ) Quite a learning curve for someone used to gasoline

Carsy

Thanks for the follow up .

BBriBro

No prob, I've learned a lot from others' posts and pics, maybe someone can learn from mine. Seems everyone changes these seals, but those who have trouble don't say what it took to fix it. (other than a trip to the shop a lot of times)