Trouble starting 1999 E300TD
 

Hello. I drive a 99 E300TD. I did not drive it any between saturday and this morning. When I tried to start it, it sounded like it was not getting enough fuel to all the injectors. I popped the hood and the small round part with the black line/yellow band coming out of the top seemed to be making a noise. The noise sounded like an air leak/gurgling/bubbling sound. I am not 100% certain the noise is coming from this part, but I am pretty confident that it is since when I touch the part I feel a slight vibration that correlates with the sound. I finally got the car to start after cranking it for about 45 seconds. After 45 seconds of cranking all cylinders seemed to be firing and the car ran fine. Since then, the car has started fine several times today. Does anyone know what this part is or if it could cause a starting issue. Picture is below. Thank you.

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That is the vacuum transducer controling the EGR valve. There is an identical one controling the turbo wastegate tucked up under the air filter box.

It was just venting; does that everytime the engine is shut off. Normal.

Look for fuel leaks or air bubbles in the clear plastic fuel lines, at DV valves and at the SOV.

Find the bubbles/leak and repalce every oring that proceeds that point in the fuel path. Repalce the rest when you can. http://bp3.blogger.com/_p71v9ofBM6w/...h/fuelflow.JPG

You should also confirm the SOV is working. Hood up, window down, turn key to pos 2, no "click" at SOV, no start. Usually a bad K40 relay; sometimes a bad SOV.

Funny that you say that. I have been smelling a strong fuel smell recently. What is the DV valve and the SOV?

Delivery valves on top of IP and Shut Off Valve on side of IP.

If the DV's are leaking ask for help efore doing the job. Isnt difficult, slightly technical.

When I arrived home from work I noticed a massive fuel spot on the driveway about 10 feet long. This occured over a 2 day time period. I have looked down around the IP and do see some wet areas. I guess the next thing is to take the bottom panels off of the car to try and get a view from the underside. I will add that my plastic fuel lines are bout 60k miles old and are stiff feeling. I am wondering if just replacing them will fix the problem. Please see photos below as I have tried to center in on the area that is the most wet. If you have any ideas or pointers on where to go from here please let me know. Thanks so much.

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I am only getting one pic. Appears to be the first one? It is looking down on a fuel line connected to the top front of the SOV. The bottom of#5 in the fuel path. Its sometime helpful to use a mechanics mirror and flashlight to help ind leaks. You can also use carb or brake cleaner to clean things up, run it 10 mins, and look under for fresh wetness. The fan sometimes blows fuel backward and it can be deceiving where it comming from.

That said, I'd guess its the SOV oring. Theres a 1" nipple on the back of the SOV that inserts and seals to the IP using an oring. I can swap mine out from above by moving the windsheild washer bottle out of the way and reaching under. The SOV is held on by two torx cap bolts (10nm torque). I remove the top of the fuel line connections and leave them all connected to the SOV when you pull it out. Makes it easier to reconnect everything as a unit that way.

Thanks TMallison. I posted 3 pictures on my last post. Two of the wet spot and one of the driveway. Oddly they are all appearing on my computer screen..

The fuel injection pump in my E300TD 1998 leaked one time, created strong diesel smell in the car and big spot on the concrete. You should be able to see it though seeping out of the pump.

There is a fuel heater that the lines run to. it appears that the white plastic n shaped clip, that holds it together is not fully inserted in it "holster". Clean up that area first. Get some soapy water down there, scrub with a tooth brush, then hit with a stream of water from your garden hose. Then try to push that clip back on a little further. If the leak persists you will need to remove the rack of ribs (air intake) for a better view of where the leak is. Pick up another manifold gasket just incase you need one.

Side note the plastic lines are hard and the first one on yours has been replaced (cobbled together) with a rubber hose. Personally for durability sake I like the rubber hose better.

This is incorrect. The white horseshoe clips are "spreaders" used to release the fuel line attachment clips for removal. The OP's fuel lines, with horseshoe clips retracted, are installed correctly. The possibility the fuel line isnt fully seated remains.

The second statement is also incorrect. Nothing is "cobbled" together. All lines are exactly as they came from the factory. The rubber line (#8 in the fuel path) attaches to a 3 way fitting. See lines #6-8.

I took the car to the dealership today because I currently do not have the time or patience to repair it myself. The dealership just called back and said that one of my fuel lines has become brittle and is leaking at the injection pump. Quoted price to replace fuel lines: around $700. I told them I would call them back. I called a indy shop and they said $250. Two questions:

1. Does a bad/brittle fuel line seem like a legitimate reason for my leak based on the pictures I posted?

2. How difficult is it to replace these lines DIY, and do those quoted prices seem outrageous?

Thanks for your help.

You gota deal at 250 for ALL fuel lines, repeat All the fuel lines, because to do the job correctly you need to remove the intake manifold/gasket to get to all the fuel lines.

Additionally a good fob price for ALL the fuel lines is about 80 bucks.

I would get a written quote!!!!

Plutoes cost on new fuel lines is about right. I don't see letting the dealer maintain a 13-14 yr old car unless you are independently wealthy.

I have replaced all of mine by just moving the windsheild washer bottle to get more access to the side of the IP and the lift pump. I'm limber and have long arms; if you are short and stubby that might not work so well.

My IM used to come off in less than 20 mins. The hardest bolt to get to is the one attaching the EGR to the IM. Couple of long extentions or a stubby rachet drive and long arms gets to it from below.

Oops sorry I miss spoke out the rubber line. Too many diesels racing around in my head.

M